RV Battery Overcharging

I tow a 22-foot travel trailer and we do most of our camping in provincial parks here in Ontario. Most of the time we are hooked up to electricity full time. Does it hurt the RV batteries if you are always hooked up to electricity and the batteries are always being charged? What about during those times we store the trailer? It almost seems after I have the batteries for about a year they don't last as long as when I first got them. Every once in a while we go to parks which don't have electrical hook-ups. I do carry two batteries.
Reinhardt, (Windsor, ONT)

Reinhardt, I’m not a fan of leaving the RV plugged in non-stop unless you are close by to monitor the batteries. Overcharging is a common malady caused primarily by mediocre charging converters. There are exceptions of course; those sophisticated chargers which employ a three or four-step charging process, for example. Boiled batteries are far too common when RVs are left plugged in during non-use, unless you take the time to check the electrolyte level quite often.

It’s actually better to fully charge and then remove the batteries from the RV during any long period of non-use, especially over a harsh winter where temperatures may dip below freezing. Constant overcharging causes batteries to sulfate at a quicker rate, thereby reducing effective performance. This sounds like what you are experiencing. Decent deep cycle batteries should certainly last longer than one year.

I recommend the Xantrex Truecharge line of RV battery chargers. Most battery makers heartily favor the application of a definitive, three-stage charging process to fully and quickly charge battery systems on modern RVs. Outfitted with a sophisticated microprocessor, the charging amperages and charge voltages produced by the Truecharge2 unit, for example, are accurately regulated to provide the correct charging cycle without the risk of overcharging. This means RVs can be stored over long periods while plugged into shore power without worry. Additionally, the Truecharge2 is applicable to wet cell, gel and AGM batteries.

Cable-Operated RV Dump Valve Replacement

I continue to have problems with my cable-pull dump valves on my waste water tanks. I can't even close the black water valve now. I had to buy a temporary valve for the end of the run. My question; Can these be replaced with any other type of valve? Even if I had to drop the under belly and re-plumb to get to the side of the coach for all three valves? I  tried to find prints or drawings of how the waste plumbing is layed out, but of course that didn't happen. I would appreciate some feed back, thanks! Bob B.

Bob, it’s bad enough to have to deal with such archaic methods of waste management, but having problems with those cable-pulls are no fun at all. Since it’s likely a routing or corrosion issue with the cables (or perhaps cheap valves), I’d recommend eliminating them altogether. Drainmaster offers an electric gate valve that is operated by battery power. I’d replace all three valves and mount the switches in the wet bay or close to the termination outlets. By code it’s mandated that the sewer valves be positioned only so far from the tank outlet, so moving all three valves to the side of the coach may not be the best choice. Since you’ll have to drop the underbelly anyway, why not just do it once and for all? Check out the Drainmaster here. Give them a call to find the best method of getting these valves to you. But do away with those cable-acuated valves!

No RV Leveling System - What now?

Gary, I just purchased a 32-foot RV, my first RV. Unfortunately, it does not have any type of leveling system. Leveling must be done manually. How do you do this? I know it’s done with blocks, but that’s all I know? How do you know when it's level? Bob D., (Bloomsburg, PA)

Great question Bob! Some RVers might be shocked to know that not every coach comes equipped with automatic levelers, in-motion satellite reception, a dozen televisions and two bathrooms! Some coaches are equipped with just the basic accouterments; plumbing, electrical systems and propane appliances. Everything necessary to fully enjoy the RVing lifestyle, just not as "fancy" as some. In fact, prior to the genesis of leveling "systems," every RVer had to manually level the RV. Obviously for general comfort, for doors and cabinets to swing and close properly, but most importantly, for the absorption refrigerator to function correctly. Anyone still have their little round bubble level?

The process is to run the tires on the low side of the coach up on ramped blocks. Many are homemade from wood but alternate materials like plastic are also available in the RV aftermarket. The key thing to remember about leveling blocks is that it is vital to support the complete footprint of every tire that is raised. 

So it kinda involves guessing just how much to raise the low side or corner. Run the tires up on a block, check the level of the refrigerator evaporator or freezer shelf, add or subtract boards or blocks to get the unit level from side to side and front to back. 

On a towable RV, the front to rear adjustment is easy enough to manipulate with the tongue jack or landing jacks, but it's trial and error. And with a motorhome, there are any of four "corners" that might need to be raised to get the rig properly leveled. It is definitely trial and error at best. Now the good news!

I'm in the process of testing a new product called the ReVo Leveler. This little box attaches to the side of the RV and, with its own battery power, tells you exactly how much to raise the RV to obtain perfect level. This is one of those inventions that make you ponder, "After all these years, where has this been?"

The ReVo Leveler makes four crucial determinations. 1) How far to lift the tongue jack or hitch to disconnect the RV from the tow vehicle, 2) How far to raise the front of the unit to obtain front-to-rear level, 3) How far to lift the low side of the rig to get it level from side to side, and 4) To obtain the exact height needed to raise the front to reconnect the tow vehicle. 

Displayed in inches, you'll now know exactly how many boards or blocks to use. Best applied with a towable RV, conventional travel trailer or 5th wheel, I can see where the ReVo Leveler would be beneficial to motorhome owners as well. Level is level is level! And all RVs need to operate within a level orientation.

The ReVo Leveler kit includes a handy 12-volt adapter for its rechargeable battery which is said to hold its charge for up to 30 hours (the digital display indicates the amount of charge remaining). Mounting clips, labels and very detailed instructions are also included in the kit. It even comes in its own protective pouch! Nice touch! 

As testing and product evaluation concludes in a real-world environment, I'll report back with a final verdict on its usefulness. My initial reaction, however, is quite positive. The construction, design and functionality is very thought-out and well engineered.

For an immediate look at the ReVo Leveler, visit http://www.revoleveler.com. Inventor, Larry Karan has also posted several videos on YouTube which explain each function. 

So Bob, I'd suggest you take a serious look at the ReVo Leveler. It is available online, at select dealers and at RV shows.
 




 

Adding an RV Storage Tray

I recently purchased a used, 2008 Keystone Springdale and it has just one small underbelly storage area that runs the full width of the travel trailer from one side to the other. Is it possible to add a long Pull Out Drawer to this storage area in order to access items easier?  If so, would it be best to add two? Meaning one on each side  of the travel trailer that would pull out from each side? Bonnie B. 

Bonnie, Lippert Components offers the Kwikee Storage Tray that can be mounted in just about any storage compartment. It’s a great way to easily access stored goods, especially for those compartments that open at both sides of the RV. Check it out here. I’m sure your local dealer can order the Kwikee Storage Tray and have it installed in no time. Or you may want to install it yourself if you're handy with tools!

30-Amp, 20-Amp Cheater Boxes

I was recently given a setup which has a 30-amp plug on one side and a 20-amp plug on the other side. The output is a 50-amp plug. I was told that if you plug in one side to a 30-amp source and the other to a 20-amp source, you will end up with 50-amp. Do these things actually work? No brand name on it, so I assume they are homemade. (Jerry M.)

Jerry, what you have is called a “cheater box” and though some are indeed homemade, there are a couple of suppliers that have them available online (as pictured). I do not recommend cheater boxes for a couple of reasons. First and foremost, they are not “approved” for RV use. Safety is paramount and I would never recommend something not approved for RV use. In most cases, the 20-amp receptacle at a campground will be GFCI-protected (it is a code requirement). Cheater boxes will automatically trip that GFCI breaker and you’ll only be provided power from the 30-amp side. 


Also, if the 20-amp receptacle and the 30-amp receptacle are connected to the same electrical phase, the cheater box will not function. To my knowledge, most 20-amp and 30-amp receptacles in the same pedestal at the same site are indeed wired to the same phase. If each receptacle is connected 180-degrees to an opposite phase, it might work. However, if there is an EMS (electrical management system), installed in the coach, or a sophisticated inverter/charger in the system, the cheater box will likely not function, or possibly add confusion to the EMS. 

Furthermore, you cannot use a cheater box with surge protection. They simply will not allow the voltage to pass through to the RV. Another reason is the sizing of the conductors. The neutral wire in the cheater box feeding its 50-amp receptacle must have the capacity to carry 50-amps as provided by two, opposite-phased sources of 120-volt hot wires. 

And finally, they’re called “cheater boxes” for a reason. If the campground is not aware of you using a cheater box, you’d simply be using more power than what it is expected of you (and charged accordingly by the campground owner), in those rare instances when the cheater box might actually work. Indeed, when all the right circumstances are correct, including permission from the campground owner, they have been known to work. A lot depends on how that particular campground was electrically constructed. 

The bottom line is that I consider it risky to use a cheater box. It’s much better to connect a 50-amp coach to a 50-amp receptacle. I’m not even fond of those 30-50 adapter plugs because it eliminates one of the safety factors built into the RV. FYI, the new 2017 electrical code for campgrounds calls for more 50-amp sites in campgrounds, so hopefully the park owners can keep up with the demand. The smart campground operators are already upgrading their parks to accommodate more 50-amp sites since more and more RVs demand the higher ampacity than ever before.

rvt#814

Stripped RV Awning Bolt

Hey Doc, is there an easy fix for a stripped out lag bolt on the bottom bracket for my older awning arm? Mine screw through the bracket that hold the awning arm. It goes through the aluminum sidewall and into the frame of the coach. Troy W., (Roy, UT)

Troy, typically the bottom bracket is secured through the sidewall at the floor level, but a lot depends on the how that portion of floor and sidewall is actually constructed and adjoined on your RV. You don’t mention the year, brand or model of coach, but I’ll cover a few different scenarios here. 

If you have wood frame construction, (I call these “old school” coaches), it’s sometimes possible to cut an access hole into the very bottom of the subfloor directly below the awning bracket and bolt all the way through the sidewall structure at the same location. An aluminum plate is affixed to the inside of the framing and the existing hole for the lag screw is re-drilled all the way through. Then bolts and washers are used to sandwich the bracket to the frame member. 

With other laminated wall assemblies, the awning bracket may actually be mounted slightly above the floor line. In this case the backing aluminum plate can be installed inside the coach above the floor using bolts, hopefully inside a cabinet. If the framing structures are wood, it’s possible to drill a hole through the siding and into the framing, then gluing a short piece of dowel rod into that hole. I’ve glued a 1/2-inch dowel hammered into a slightly undersized hole in the wood framing. After the glue dries, a new pilot hole can be drilled into the dowel plug and another lag screw installed as before. 

If the framing is aluminum, it’s best to try to sandwich the wall section by using an aluminum plate on the inside as described above. Another option is to drill a new hole in the awning bracket itself, above, below or next to, the problem hole. Then drill a pilot hole into the framing and just install a new, second lag screw.

Voltage Monitor Gone Awry

I have an issue with my Xantrex panel. When I plugged in the motorhome, all the panel lights for the charging sequence strobe and still strobe.  I have attached a movie to show you what I'm talking about. I also saw that the house batteries were showing 6 volts at the time. I really do think my batteries, four 6-volt batteries are bad as they do not hold a charge long at all. Could this strobing be from the batteries being shot and needing replacing? Doug K., (Redmond, WA)

Doug, Xantrex is aware of this problem and has released new software in the remote control unit. The problem happens with the older remote panels when the DC voltage dips momentarily, causing the processor to try to quickly track which LEDs should be illuminated on the display. Evidently it was searching too quickly and it basically confused itself! The newer remote re-tracks every three seconds which enables it to lock onto the correct sequence better. Replace the remote with a new device and it should be rectified. It might run through that rapid sequence once or so, but it will eventually fix itself rather quickly. Your local dealer can probably order one for you or you can also contact Xantrex directly.

Slideout Valve Leaking

I own a 2011 Cedar Creek Silverback 5th Wheel Model 29 RE. I am leaking hydraulic fluid from the slideout selector valves (Triple Hydraulic Slide-Out Room IRC Assembly). My dealership tells me that I need to replace the entire assembly at a cost of $173.09 per valve. Is there another way to fix this? Please advise. Raymond S., (Cinnaminson, NJ)

Raymond, you can purchase the entire assembly directly from Lippert and save a bunch. Here’s the order page from their website.

You’d still have installation costs, but it shouldn’t be too much to replace the entire assembly as a unit I don’t believe individual components are available since they test and verify each assembly as a completed unit. There would be no way to guarantee the parts and pieces individually since it relies so much on installation/repair techniques of the technician. Plus I’m a firm believer in the safety factor as well. It's better to get the whole assembly, tested as complete.
 

RV Battery Charging at Home

Hey Doc, I have bought two six volt batteries. My problem is that I have to store the trailer in a lot with no access to electricity. So I bring the batteries home to be charged. My question is what battery charger should I purchase to recharge at home. Also what amp should I use to recharge. Thanks and I always enjoy your presentations in Seattle. Mike A.

Mike, it’s probably better actually, to bring those batteries home to charge. That way you can monitor the charging process and keep a watchful eye on the electrolyte much easier. Simply connect the two batteries in series (one cable running from the positive post of one battery to the negative post on the other battery, and simply use any applicable battery charger to the other two posts. In this diagram, the battery charger would be connected to the same terminal posts as the two loose cables.

To fully charge both batteries, I recommend a multi-stage battery charger (such as the Xantrex TrueCharge2) and remember to never overcharge them beyond the gassing point. A computer-controlled battery charger will accomplish that automatically. The charger should be sized C/5; meaning, divide the total amp-hours of the battery bank and divide it by 5. That would be the recommended minimal charging unit required. As an example, two six-volt batteries in series would yield approximately 225-amp-hours. Divided by 5 = a 45-amp battery charger would suffice. I would recommend a 50-amp charger in case your batteries can store a little more than that.

 

Product Spotlight: H2Out Dehumidifiers

Dear RV Doctor, I am new to owning and living in an RV so I am not familiar with propane heat. I have read that propane heat also puts out moisture. What is the best way, easiest and most economical, to handle moisture and condensation in an RV? Thanks! Jacki

Hey Doc, I have a 25-foot RV with a new 13,500 btu air conditioning unit. The problem is at night time the humidity level is high, over 80%, with the temperature around 70-degrees. What should I do? Dustin
 

Well Jacki and Dustin, it's true any gas-fired burner emits moisture (propane, natural gas, etc.), as well as rooftop air conditioners. And indeed moisture can be problematic in and around any RV. There are a multitude of desiccants commercially available that can help reduce moisture accumulation and I've experimented with many over the years since pervasive moisture/condensation have been a never-ending battle for RVers in most climates. 

I recently completed a test of a renewable dehumidifier that uses no electricity and does not require messing dumping of the water it collected. It's called H2Out. The nice thing is that it is available in varying sizes/capacities making it the perfect companion for RV travelers. And since there is no water collecting there's no fear of spillage as you travel up and down hills in the RV. And the best part; it works!

The H2Out is comprised of silica gel modules as opposed to solid silica clay particles. Silica gel can absorb up to one third its own weight. And each H2Out dehumidifier contains thousands of gel beads encased in a stainless steel canister that is easily stored, used and renewed. Renewed properly periodically, each canister will likely last the life of your RV.

The gel beads are normally blue in color and turn to pink as they absorb the moisture in the air. Depending on the size of the canister, they should easily last 30-60 days before needing renewing. At least that's what their literature stated. I ran my tests for a full 90 days just to see what would happen. 

For my review of the SD309, I first ran a three-month test of an unheated space, unprotected by a dehumidifier. I measured the humidity and temperature extremes during this benchmark test. I then placed the H2Out in the same space for another 90 days and measured both extremes again.

Here are the overall results:

Without Dehumidification                                     With the H2Out in Place
Temperature Extremes: 68 - 79-degrees                Temperature Extremes: 54 - 81-degrees
Humidity Extremes: 31 - 43%                                  Humidity Extremes: 24 - 69%

The test was performed in Seattle, WA where the moisture content can vary drastically over the course of the year. Clearly the H2Out obtained the lowest humidity measurement. The benchmark test was performed from late spring to early summer (May - July). The time period for the H2Out test ran from July to September.

The beads began turning slightly pink within a week, which is normal since the moisture is absorbed from the outside to the inside. After 90 days, it was clear it was time to recharge the canister. I'm convinced I would have gotten better results had I recharged the H2Out at the recommended 60-day mark. 

The renewing process is quite simple if you have an electric oven, (uh...don't place the stainless steel canister in a microwave!). It was a little more detailed with my gas cooktop. Do read the recharging instructions carefully! My test canister is now back in my controlled space to see how it performs during a 60-day run of a NW winter.

I am convinced the H2Out is quite worthy of its stout price since it will literally last for years with proper renewing. At the suggestion of Marilyn at Ken Murphy Associates, I plan to place an SD106 in my refrigerator. Though it's probably harder to quantify since I'll not record measurements, I'm informed it works wonderfully inside the food compartment of any absorption refrigerator.

I'd recommend readers visit the H2Out website and read through the informative pages. Though more costly than other, higher maintenance dehumidifiers, I feel serious RVers need to at least check it out.

More RV Electrical Info

After attending several RV shows and joining you for a few RV Doctor seminars, my wife and I have purchased a Fifth Wheel (a 2010 Peterson Excel Winslow. We are very happy that we did our homework and now have a high quality RV that will hopefully last many years.

 My first maintenance related question is electrical. I have purchased a Progressive Industries 50-amp surge protector that plugs in at the pedestal and has a digital readout of voltage, amps being used, cycles and error codes. It will trip the power to the RV if power has the wrong polarity, and has several other features to protect the RV. 

At the Seattle RV show, you said it was a necessity to have a non-contact proximity tester, but with my surge protector, I think I am covered. Please confirm. I will probably pick up a Fluke volt meter for general usage.

Also, another question: When plugging in the surge protector to the adapter, the weight of everything tends to pull the plug out of the socket. I used a bungee cord to wrap around the pedestal to keep it tight. The other issue when it rains in the northwest is wet, not dry. Can I use a waterproof cover over the entire pedestal, adapter and surge protector to keep the connections dry?  Mark & Cindy A., (Bainbridge Island)


Mark & Cindi, the Progressive surge protector is a very good device and is certainly recommended for serious RVers. What we have found, however, is that neither the Progressive nor the Surge Guard models can protect against the dual fault situation called Reverse Polarity/Bootleg Ground (RPBG). It has been well documented by my buddy, Mike Sokol. Check out how and why the RPBG situation can even fool expensive ground loop impedance devices and those inexpensive three-light testers that everyone relies on; read this article carefully and be sure to click on the internal links!

The only sure-fire way to verify the polarity of incoming voltage from a campground pedestal, and the most logical and safest for RVers, is the use of a non-contact voltage proximity test device. I consider it cheap insurance....that might just save your life.

Also, I’m not a big fan of plugging a 50-amp RV into a 30-amp receptacle for the simple reason that it eliminates at least one of the safety devices built into the design of the pedestal. It’s certainly better if you have an EMS (energy management system) controlling your distribution inside the RV, but you may find that only using one leg of the incoming 120-volt AC electricity limits what circuits are actually activated inside the coach. Now that said, in some cases with the smaller or older campgrounds, you may have no choice if all they have are 30-amp pedestals. In those instances you simply deal with it until you can get connected to the proper source voltage once again. Always use a quality 50-30 reducing adapter (I recommend the ones that have a short piece of cable running between the male and female plugs rather than the big chunk of rubber with both connections molded into one plug). Also, ya gotta keep that connection clean, dry and tight no matter what, somehow! Bungee straps, plastic baggies, etc., can all help. Have you considered the unit that installs permanently inside the storage bay rather than the portable unit that attaches at the pedestal? Just a thought...

 

RV Levelers Raising Tires Off the Ground

Our motorhome has Power Gear brand levelers. The front two float side to side on the same hydraulic circuit while the rear two jacks are independent. The coach seems to ride high on certain grades with the front wheels off the ground oftentimes. When this happens the coach rocks enough to trigger motion sickness. Here are my questions:

   1. Should I lower the front two leveler jack a notch?
   2. Should I shorten the back two leveler jacks a notch? Thereby
       lowering the starting point center of gravity so as not to need it
       so high in front?
   3. Both? Or one at a time? In what order?
   4. Can you recommend a shop in my area?
   5. What about auxiliary jacks? Where and what kind? On the slides?
   6. Any other ideas?

Please help as currently it is making us sick! Dean G.


It is certainly not recommended having tires actually off the ground once the levelers have been deployed, Dean. That will definitely lead to instability issues as you've already discovered. I'm wondering if the "Auto" function has been properly set up to begin with? If so it sounds like your system needs to be re-calibrated to what's called the "zero point." I've attached the calibration procedures if you feel so inclined to attempt it yourself.

Properly set up, the best "Auto" position will permit all tires to stay in contact with Mother Earth and still effectively level the coach. If you notice any sinking into the ground at any jack though, it might be necessary to use a larger footprint accessory under each jack.

But I'm guessing a proper "set-up" will eliminate your motion sickness. I'd hold off on auxiliary slideout supports until after you have the main leveling system calibrated properly. You simply may not need them after that. Plus they can always be added at any time.

If you choose to seek professional help, be sure to only allow certified RV technicians to work on your leveling system. Look for a shop that has specific experience with the Power Gear brand. Unfortunately, I have no recommendations for shops in your location.

##RVT783;##RVT936

In Need of a Triple Entry Step Assembly

I banged up the 5th wheel triple steps and need to replace them. I want to get good quality and don't know what is good and what might be cheaply made and weak. Basically, I want the best bang for the buck. I currently have a 7-inch rise between the steps. Do you have a recommendation of which to buy? Mike W., (Clovis, CA)

Well Mike, you didn’t mention whether your damaged entry steps are motorized or if your 5th wheel is equipped with the manual, pull-out steps. Either way, I do have a couple of recommendations for you to ponder. If you are replacing a powered entry step, I can heartily recommend the motorized “Coachstep,” as produced by Lippert Components, Inc., as a ready replacement. You’ll want their Part Number 285312. I’ve actually witnessed Lippert step assemblies being manufactured, tested and retested, ad nauseam, and I’m convinced these powder-coated steps with their self-lubricating bushings, along with their 750-pound rating will serve you well for many years to come. The only caution I mention, is that the riser distance between steps is a traditional 8-inches; a little taller than what you have now. Be sure this will not cause a clearance problem or interfere with your physical ability to enter and exit the RV. Also, if your current damaged electric step assembly is a Kwikee unit, it will be necessary to replace the door magnets/switch since the Kwikee is simply not compatible with the new Lippert Coachstep electronics. 

Now, all that said, if your current step assembly is the old-school manual, fold down set of three steps, I’d recommend either upgrading to the electric Coachstep (always an option, by the way), or at the very least, checking out Lippert’s Tread Lite Steps. Due to their anodized aluminum tread construction, the Tread Lite is the lightest set of steps I’ve personally seen anywhere in the aftermarket. Even in the triple-step format, it will still weigh close to 20 pounds less than equivalent steel steps. One of the coolest things I like about the Tread Lite is the inclusion of cast linkages between the pivot points. It simply looks good. Powder coated to resist oxidation, the entire assembly is rated for 350-pounds. The three-step model you’ll require is Part Number 293661. Their look will compliment any coach exterior given the aluminum of each step set against the black powder coating of the connecting linkages. Also, I’m at the point where “lightweight” is a huge selling point for me so I can almost guarantee you’ll not get worn out moving Lippert’s Tread Lite Step assemblies in and out manually, even multiple times per day if so required. 

As for ordering either Lippert step, I’d suggest giving them a call first to determine the best method of payment and delivery. Call 574-537-8900  or visit www.lci1.com and enter through the “Parts Store” tab at the top of the page to see all their offerings. Here's the direct link to the Tread Lite Steps I mentioned above.

Our P-Traps Froze!

We were recently caught in that arctic freeze that inundated the Northeast. We went to ready our RV today for a trip next week and found our sink drain p-trap in the bathroom frozen shut. We had to pour hot water down the sink in order to melt what appeared to be a solid block of ice. My husband tried to take apart the p-trap at the joint, but it would not budge. Was anything damaged by this? How can we avoid this in the future? We don't winterize the RV since we use it during the winter some. We're sure it had something to do with the recent very cold weather system that came through. Thanks for your helpful hints! Mary D., (New Brunswick, NJ)

Wow! You were in some seriously cold weather Mary, as was much of the country of late! I have one word for you; Florida! Seriously though, I'm sure many p-traps probably froze during the recent cold weather in those parts of the country. Unless proper precautions are taken, it probably happens more often than most people realize!

One of the problems with the standard p-trap in an RV is that they require regular maintenance. Unlike p-traps in residential or commercial sink drainage systems, the RV p-trap is not used as regularly, therefore diligence on the RVer is necessary. Some of the drawbacks to RVs equipped with standard, run-of-the-mill traps is that the water lock must be maintained at all times. Without that sealing water lock, odors from the holding tanks can rise up and into the living portions of the RV. And keep in mind, it is code-compliant (and fairly common) for some sinks to be plumbed to the black, solid waste holding tank. So odors from either tank may have a direct conduit to the interior of the RV if you do not keep a watchful eye on the level of the water in each trap. (How many of you with RVs equipped with a combo washer/dryer have ever checked the p-trap associated with the washing machine drain?)

Because we don't use RV sinks as often as the sinks in our homes, it's also plausible for the water in the p-trap to lose its sealing ability due to common evaporation. Also, as RVs round corners, especially on curvy mountain declines, the water in the trap can be swished out of the trap, again creating that free pathway for odors to enter the living areas.

I've even seen instances where the lavatory sink was plumbed to the toilet holding tank and simply flushing the toilet caused the water in the trap to be siphoned out of it, enough to negate the water lock.

For RVers who are prone to actually using the coach during cold weather, it's not a bad idea to pour a 1/4-cup of RV anti-freeze down each sink drain every few days to ensure the water does not freeze if that sink happens to sit idle during a cold snap. As an alternative, windshield washer fluid, which is less expensive in most locales, can be used instead of RV anti-freeze. 

But to be 100% worry-free, and 100% odor-free, I recommend replacing all the RV p-traps with a HepvO waterless sanitary valve. You've probably heard me mention the HepvO in a video or seminar somewhere before, but I can't say enough good things about this unique plumbing device. It is 100% maintenance free and eliminates the possibility of holding tank odors from ever entering the living space of the RV. It also provides for more storage space under the sink since it can be installed vertically or horizontally and can positioned as high up as the sink will allow. It's hard to argue against any serious RVer who can appreciate the positive attributes of the HepvO. Another good thing is that it is easily installed by the average handyman. I'd encourage you to take a look at my video regarding the HepvO valve. You can view it right here.

I doubt the severe cold snap you encountered damaged anything in the drainage system, unless of course you see leaks when running water through that drain, but I can guarantee you'll never have a freezing problem again, since the HepvO waterless sanitary valve is not dependent on a water lock to prevent odors from coming into the RV, hence the "waterless" part of its name. Check it out... Click here to order your HepvO valves. 

##RVT773; ##RVT879

Helper Spring Help

I'd like your educated and experienced mind to help me choose an air bag helper spring system for my Class C, Gulfstream BT Cruiser motorhome with leaf-springs and a Ford V-10 engine. I would appreciate any assistance or contacts before plunking down the money for such a system. I read all your newsletters and glean a lot of info from them. Thanks! William M., (Columbia, MO) 

William, I’ve always been a fan of the Firestone Ride-Rite air spring for most applications, though there some other systems that will likely suffice as well. However, prior to the purchase of any “helper” type product, I always recommend a thorough and detailed inspection of the complete suspension system and obtaining the accurate weights at each tire position. There’s no sense in applying a “bandage” mentality if a pre-existing condition is the primary cause. In other words, eliminate all guessing and start with a known entity before investing in a product installation. A good truck shop will be able to inspect and measure your current rig and rectify any ills discovered with the existing equipment or set-up. If the coach still requires additional suspension support, then you can opt to install the air springs. The Ride-Rites would be my choice. Be sure the shop you choose is very familiar with such an add-on installation.

Inverter Questions

Where can I find the wiring diagram for a 1989 Citation RV? I have one in NJ. I bought it used and it is having some electrical problems. I don't know what the inverter is used for. I was told that my lights are low voltage (12-volts), therefore I need the inverter. I don't believe it for a minute, but I would like to get a copy of the diagram in order to troubleshoot the problem. Can you help? Gerzan A., (N. Bergen, NJ)

Gerzan, it’s doubtful you’ll ever find an accurate schematic or wiring diagram for a coach that old, even if one existed. But typically, all lighting in an RV is 12-volts DC (direct current). An inverter is the electrical opposite of a converter. It takes 12-volt battery power and inverts it to 120-volts AC (alternating current). By the way, some of today’s sophisticated inverters are also very good battery chargers. When the coach is plugged into 120-volts AC shore power, (or operating on generator power), the inverter becomes a multi-step battery charger. I'm wondering if you're confusing a pre-existing CONverter with a non-existent INverter?

If you have a battery bank, you do not need an inverter to power the interior lamps. The inverter would be used to produce AC voltage so you can power 120-volt AC devices/circuits when shore power is not available. What is the brand and model number of the inverter you have in your coach? Inverters come very sophisticated (true sine wave output) while some lesser expensive models output a modified square wave. If you indeed have an inverter, it’s possible it did not come stock from the factory. Unfortunately, I’ll need a little more information to help any further.

Eternabond And/Or Lap Sealants

In one of your articles about replacing a roof vent you suggest using Eternabond tape to seal the edges and around the screws. Does Eternabond replace lap sealant or do you still apply lap sealant on top of the tape? Robert G., (Ft. Worth, TX)

Robert, Eternabond tape can be applied directly over the old lap sealant as long as it spans it completely on both sides, with an inch or so on either side of the extreme edges of the lap sealant. It does replace the lap sealant and no other sealant will be necessary. Just be sure to follow the directions explicitly during the application. Clean, dry, etc. The only thing Eternabond will not stick to is silicone sealant. If there is any silicone sealant used, I recommend removing that first. But no other sealant need be applied to the edges of the Eternabond. Great stuff!

Constant LED for RV Dump Valves

I have a 2011 Carriage Carri-Lite. Both the grey water and black water electric dump valve switch lights are illuminated indicating the valves are in the open positions. They have been working fine but seem to be "stuck" in the open position. This happened once before and I cannot remember what the fix was. I checked the fuses and breakers and they seem to be fine. The actual valves are not immediately accessible and I'm not sure where they are. I believe it's an electrical issue. HELP! Thanks, J. W., (Three Rivers, TX)

J. W., it is unusual for both lights on the those switches to stay lit. Usually the black indicator LED stays on even while the valve is working properly. The indicator stays on when the magnet on the gate does not line up under the magnetic switch, which is mounted on the body of the valve itself. The switch is a “normally closed” switched and it takes the magnet to hold the contacts “open.”

Unfortunately you will have to gain access to the valves at some point in order to troubleshoot that magnetic switch. It will be necessary to remove the belly pan or at least part of it to get to the valves. Some of the Carriage models have a molded plastic piece on the street or driver’s side of the coach that looks different than the other underbelly pans. This is where the valves are located.

Remember the light is simply an indicator and not part of the actual valve operation, so if you are on a trip, you do not need to address this issue until you return home. You can verify that the gray valve is indeed closed even though the LED is illuminated by emptying the tank, then close the valve and run water in the sinks and see if it continues to drain out of the tank and through the sewer hose. Chances are, however, the valve is still closed, even with the LED illuminated.

I’ve attached some additional troubleshooting information for you regarding this issue. You can also call Drain Master 877 787 8833 Toll free and the good folks there will be happy to assist you further if necessary. (Any interested reader can also download the same troubleshooting information from this link).

RV Batteries Leaking Electrolyte

First time RVer here. I have a 2002, 31-foot Jayco. Why is my battery bank leaking acid? I have two batteries and two solar panels with a PWM charge controller. When we bought it, it was hooked up to power, now we keep it stored. One battery was leaking in the first two months so we replaced both batteries. Now a month later, it's leaking again. The only power we see on the fifth-wheel is a clock on an entertainment center which we can't power off, and a green light on the LP gas detector. We also found a horizontal crack on the side of the wall half way up above the hitch about 8-inches long and 1/8-inch or less wide. Can this cause internal water damage? Should I patch it? Lisa, (Naples, FL)

Lisa, I’m assuming the batteries have been inspected for physical cracks in their casings. It is entirely possible the battery bank is not receiving the proper charge rate and is being subjected to overcharging, thereby boiling the electrolyte. It will be necessary to perform some diagnostic measurements before, during and after charging the bank, I’m afraid. It is crucial that the PWM (pulse-width modulated), charge controller be configured to an algorithm that is beneficial to the specific batteries in your battery bank; one that will fully charge them, yet not exceed the gassing voltage during the charge cycle. I’m guessing the charging voltage might be set too high and a continued overcharge by the solar system is taking place. Or it may be set for AGM batteries rather than wet cell batteries. I wish I could be of more help, but to ascertain exactly what is transpiring, some specific measurements must be taken. I’d suggest a pro (certified) RV service technician take a look to see what’s going on.

And yes, any opening into the roof, sidewalls, front or rear of any RV is an open invitation for water intrusion. Water intrusion is the number one cause of RV damage and can lead to very expensive restorative repairs if not addressed soon. So, indeed have that crack repaired as soon as possible! Even a temporary fiberglass patch is better than leaving it open until a professional repair can be made. And welcome to the RVing lifestyle!

##RVT841 

RV Solar Panels and Shoreline Electrical Quandary

Earlier this year, I asked if I had to isolate my solar panels if I am connected to shore power. I do have a charging unit installed with these solar panels. I check the RV Doctor newsletter and website often and have not read anything on this subject. Maybe it is that I live in Canada and we don't count? Larry G., (Alberta, Canada) 

Larry, I live fairly close to Canada and know more than one Canadian personally, so I’m sure it’s not your country of origin, (check out the question just below yours)! Hey, I even root for the Canucks since they're the closest NHL team to me! Bottom-line, I wish I could respond to everyone immediately, but the volume of emails I receive is simply overwhelming. But on to your question...

Usually, solar battery charging systems are equipped with a charge controller which is a very sophisticated device that monitors the voltage and amperage produced by the array of panels. It has built-in protection to keep from overcharging. The ones I recommend actually provide pulse-width modulation and multi-stage battery charging algorhythms that enable a full charge without the possibility of an overcharge. Here's an interesting article you might find interesting. 

A new charge controller can be retrofitted to any solar charging system. Even if the system was originally equipped with a less-than-stellar blocking diode, shunt-type controller, etc. Even if your inverter/charger or converter/charger is activated while connected to shore power, the batteries will only accept the voltage from the source with the highest potential. Meaning, the charge controller output can be wired in parallel with the converter or inverter charger. Solar, however, works best with a sophisticated inverter/charger rather than one of the mediocre converter/chargers.

So if your system is not equipped with a three or four stage solar charge controller, it’s perfectly okay to upgrade and install one. It just depends on what came with your system. I recommend the charge controllers offered by AM Solar. 

It is important to “size” the controller properly for the voltage and amperage output of the solar array, so you have some choices to make.