RV Steering and Handling Issues

Hey Gary, I need advice on improving the road handling of my 1999 American Cruiser Class B on a Dodge Ram B3500 chassis. I have very loose steering, lots of bouncing, and really am affected by wind. It feels unsafe. Would Bilstein shocks be best and does $717 installed sound right (ouch!)? Or would Safe-T-Plus be better, (assuming I can get them for this rig)? Or what would you recommend? I need to decide soon. It's in great shape with everything else. I want to do some more improvements if I can get the steering/handling issue under control. Thanks! Karen V. (near Detroit, MI) 

Both the products you mention are great products Karen. One is designed to accommodate the bounce (Bilsteins) and the Safe-T-Plus is designed for steering control. So it may end up being that both are needed. However, that said, before I'd purchase either one, I'd have an experienced chassis/front end alignment shop perform some tests, inspect all components, take some measurements and then evaluate the situation. Fatigue with any number of chassis components can cause steering and drivability issues.

Before investing a substantial amount of money on add-on devices, it's a wise decision to have a knowledgeable technician take a look. Seek out an experienced chassis/truck shop in your area; I would not recommend a regular, run of the mill, RV dealership or repair shop. Specialty equipment is needed, such that will be found only in a dedicated chassis or alignment shop. Also, be sure to have the coach loaded normally as you would for travel. Weight distribution will have an affect on the dynamics of both steering and handling.

I think this would be the wiser avenue Karen. Most assuredly, both products will improve the ride and the steering/handling, but why spend money on products that truly may not be needed?

Critters - Redux

Not a question Gary, but I have an idea that has worked out for me in the past 5 or 6 years or so for keeping mice out of the RV during periods of non-use. You may have heard of this before. This is ideal for people who are storing there RVs inside a building. I have an empty, unused Morton Building 48 X 99 pole shed where I store mine and others. I simply put tire rings around all the RV tires.

When you think about it, how do mice first get into an RV? They climb up the tire, jump across onto a frame member and then from there, find a hole to get in. Slide outs are notorious for mice finding that hole. These tire rings really do work. Basically the rings are too high and slippery for them to get up so therefore, you have no mouse problem come spring. 

Just to give you an example of the effectiveness, I have had this couple bring their RV to me for the past 3 years. Well anyway, he knew there were mice in his RV, (a 2005 Sunnybrook 5th wheel). I told him it won't be that way for long! I set a couple of mouse traps in the door and sure enough I caught one mouse right off the get go, then a day or so later, I caught another one. That was the first of October. The traps have been empty ever since I installed the tire rings. He is so impressed that now he pre-pays one year ahead to make sure he gets a spot in my building. I also randomly check throughout the winter to make sure there is no problem. So far, my device has worked wonders! Just thought I'd mention this in follow-up to the earlier post about mice. Dan B., (Edinburg, ND)

Thanks Dan! This is a great idea and your success with the invention speaks for itself. I do want to remind readers that, in addition to the tires, mice can easily enter by crawling up the shoreline power cord (one of the reasons why I don't advise leaving the coach plugged in during storage), and up the sewer hose or fresh water hose, if they remain connected for some reason. Literally any pathway leading from the ground to the RV, in any way, provides an easily-negotiated on-ramp for those pesky critters. 

I'm thinking it might also be a good idea to place these rings around the landing gear of 5th wheels and hitch jacks on conventional travel trailers just to be sure.

(For anyone interested in Dan's tire rings, feel free to contact him at bakke@polarcomm.com)

Preventing Critter Infestation During RV Storage

Hey Doc, what can we do to keep mice out of our RV when it is in storage? Jeff C., (Iowa Park, TX)

I thought I read an article you wrote about keeping mice from entering your RV under-carriage, I thought it was something   you could spray on. Any help? Joe G., (Bellingham, WA)

Well Jeff and Joe, I had an opportunity to test a Canadian product called Mouse Free, vicariously, through one of my beta-testers in the field. Howard and Linda Payne (rv-dreams.com), agreed to try it out, under my direction, since they were going to store their RV on a farm out in the countryside of KY while traveling overseas. Field mice had been a problem at this location in the past so I thought it would be a great proving site for the test.

From all appearances, I liked what I saw and heard while speaking with the company at a few RV shows and was anxious to see if it was worth the effort for the do-it-yourselfer. Here’s what Howard and Linda had to say:

 

"We were kind of at a loss of where and how to begin. The instructions you get are very limited. The only written instructions we found were with the spray gun. The instructions said to use no more than 60 psi of pressure. We felt this was not enough pressure to get a good spray of product. At 60 psi, our spray of product was more like spitting the product on. When watching the video of a dealer applying the product, the amount coming out of the spraying was an even coating.

Application as a “Do-It-Yourselfer” was difficult because you need an air compressor and getting access to the under carriage. Our RV sits very low to the ground so one has to lay on their back and scoot under and around to apply the product (see photo below). The instructions suggest wearing protective eye gear and we are glad we did. The spray of the product does get on you when you are applying it to the under carriage.

Other comments:
The literature states that one gallon coats up to 24’. Our 5th wheel is 39’ and we did not use an entire gallon. We are not sure why, but it could have something to do with the amount of air pressure that the instructions suggested. It was unclear of how much to apply in a given area.

 
Cleanup was suggested as very easy. We did not find this to be the case. The product is very similar to petroleum jelly and is extremely difficult to clean the spray gun. It was suggested to use hot water and a mild soap. I’m not sure anyone wants this product being washed down into their drains or pipes. I simply gave up and put the spray gun back in the box with product still in it.

Overall comments:
Although we took other measures to prevent mice, (removed all food, and filled obvious holes with steel wool) we feel the product did work. We parked in the same spot last spring for one week and we got mice (note: we were living in the RV at the time so we had food and we did not plug up holes with steel wool). This time we were gone for a month and there were no signs of mice.

Being full-timers, we probably would not buy this product because of the expense and the infrequency of rodent infestation. However, if we stored our RV every winter and mice were a continuous problem, we would not hesitate to use it and the cost would seem more reasonable. We would prefer to have a dealer apply in that case.”

In addition, one of the containers had leaked during the shipment to KY and created a mess in the carton. I spoke with the supplier about the leaking container and they assured me this was simply a random accident and that they’ve not had problems shipping the product in the past, but I thought it warranted a mention as a full disclosure of what the Payne’s experienced. As always, your mileage may vary! I think the bottom line is that Mouse Free will indeed help keep the critters from entering the RV.

Selecting a Tow Vehicle

I read your recent article regarding matching a tow vehicle and travel trailer because we need to select a different tow vehicle for our new trailer. I can follow your guidelines okay, but here is my major concern: Our present vehicle will tow the trailer, but per the owner's manual, in order to not over-stress the transmission due to constantly up-shifting to overdrive and then down-shifting, over and over, we need to lock the shifter in the "3" position instead of the "D" position. Which results in terrible gas mileage.

So here's my question: What vehicles can we expect to tow our trailer in the "Drive" selection? I'm not asking you to endorse any particular vehicle, because it makes no difference to us what we buy, Ford, GMC, Chevy, Dodge, whatever. What we want to avoid is buying one, only to find out we have the same problem. Please recommend as many models as possible with the necessary power train combinations, (gas and diesel), to achieve our goal.

Our new conventional travel trailer weighs 4273 lbs. By the time we have it fully loaded, I figure it will weigh around 5300-5500 pounds. Tim M. (no city, no state) 

Unfortunately, it would be nigh impossible to gather the info you are seeking Tim. One would have to access every single owner’s manual for the qualifying tow vehicles. I think the reason many manuals state to put the transmission in third gear instead of “drive” is just as you state, to keep the tranny from slipping into and out of overdrive.

If any vehicle has a switch that can disable the overdrive function, (both mine do), then it might be possible to select “drive” and just go. You can always downshift to a lower gear if necessary if your road speed is reduced too much. Most likely this will be the case when heading uphill. This certainly would be one of the questions to ask before you purchase the next tow vehicle. But there’s simply no way to research what each owner’s manual might suggest, unfortunately. It's probably best to choose three or four possible tow vehicles based on your remaining criteria and then pop this question to narrow that field further.

Foreign Television Desired

I bought a JACK digital TV antenna and installed it. It works fine sitting in my driveway, but my question is, will it work in Canada? The RV dealer that I bought it from didn't know and I'm leaving for Canada next month. Frank K., (Mays Landing, NJ)

Frank, even though I live relatively close to the Canadian border, I too, was unsure about this so I contacted an in-country source. According to my Canadian buddy, tech writer Steve Froese, since the Jack is a UHF and VHF antenna, you should have no problems receiving television signals when you cross the border. Satellite systems, however, may pose problems. To my knowledge, most services do not permit reception across country borders. 

Surging RV News!

I sure enjoy the RV Doctor Newsletter! have been hearing a lot about surge protectors to protect your RV electrical systems and appliances. Is there a surge protector that will handle both 50 & 30 amps? Or, do you have purchase one for the 50 and one for the 30. Thanks! Walt A., (no city/state)

Thanks for subscribing to the free monthly RV Doctor Newsletter, Walt. I hope you have been enjoying it. Here’s what I’ve written previously about surge protection:

A number of suppliers now provide such protective devices for the RV industry. Surge protectors act like an electrical sponge of sorts, absorbing excess voltage, thereby protecting the entire coach. The surge protective device should include the ability to completely shut off the incoming power before damaging transients can reach sensitive on-board equipment. Additionally, they should have the capability to monitor and detect both high and low voltage conditions and to interrupt the incoming power until the system has returned to safer levels over a period of time.
 
Many surge protectors utilize a component called a MOV, (Metal Oxide Varistor) to protect against transients voltages. The quality devices usually have a minimum of three MOVs in the circuitry. More sophisticated protectors, such that might be used in the computer industry, have what is called sine wave tracking which actually tracks the incoming AC signal and literally cuts off the top portion of the wave. It provides better protection for highly sensitive equipment. The key to this technology is determined by the “clamping voltage rating” also called the “let-through voltage rating.” The lower the rating, the better the protection. Sine wave tracking protectors have a remarkably tight clamping voltage surrounding the incoming power line sine wave.
 
Some companies extol the Joule Rating of their surge protection device. A “joule” is a measurement of energy that indicates the amount of energy that a device is capable of absorbing. The total number of MOVs in a device primarily determines its joule rating. Unfortunately, there is no standard for measuring the joule rating of surge suppressors, but generally those with a higher rating are considered better. It is felt by many in the surge protection business that the joule rating of a surge suppressor is less important than the “let-through voltage” rating. Underwriters Laboratories, (UL), has, however, developed a minimum standard for spike suppressors. The surge protector you choose to install in your RV should meet or exceed the requirements of UL 1449.
 
You are encouraged to investigate the feasibility of adding transient voltage protection to your electrical system. If you truly value the electrical equipment in your coach and are well aware of the consequences, it can be considered cheap insurance at the very least.

That said, you should obtain the surge device that is properly sized for the ampacity of the shoreline cord. If you have a 50-amp coach, get a 50-amp surge protector. If it’s 30-amps, yep, go with a 30-amp version. If you must use a 50-30 adapter at some point, just keep the surge protector between the 30-amp adapter and the shore cord.

Note: To subscribe to the free RV Doctor Newsletter, simply type your email address into the Blue box on the right-hand side of the RV Doctor Website and choose the RV Doc Newsletter and any others you wish to receive.

Automotive or Automatic? Does the Fluid Really Care?

In the Keystone manual for my Montana, it states Type A automotive transmission fluid is to be used to fill the reservoir for the hydraulic pump for the slideout system. In my searches for this product, I can only find Type A automatic transmission fluid. Is this the same thing? Perhaps it is merely just the wording on the product labeling; (automotive vs. automatic). Thank you! Loretta G., (Floral City, FL)

Yep....same stuff Loretta. Marketing hype variation is all it appears to be. You’re good to go!

(Wow! I think that's a record for the shortest response ever from me!)

Can Your RV Propane Regulator Hum a Tune?

When I have an appliance running, I get a “hum” coming from the propane tank (2007 Class A motorhome). This occurs maybe 60 to 70% of the time. I have an “extend-a-stay” valve located between the tank and the regulator which I use for outdoor appliances and it does it when I use that also, which tells me that maybe it is not the RV regulator. Any ideas? Dave M., (no city/state) 

 

Dave, a humming noise from an RV propane regulator is not a bad thing in and of itself. It can become enhanced (the humming may get louder) after a recent fill-up if the container is slightly over-filled. But with the redundant safeguards integral to modern RV propane containers, it’s rare to end up with a grossly over-filled container. 

The humming noise is caused by the rubber diaphragm inside the regulator fluctuating (as it should) to keep up with the steady demand of regulating the flow of propane to the appliances. Varying temperatures and the volume of the wetted surface inside the container creates varying pressures inside. It’s the regulator’s job to take that fluctuating pressure and smoothly reduce it to the delivery line pressure required by the appliances. The vibrating movement of the diaphragm inside the regulator body creates this harmonic dissonance of sorts that we hear as a humming noise. In most cases it is entirely normal and should not cause worry or concern. The fact you also use an extend-a-stay attachment would have no bearing on the regulator as propane would still be flowing through it whenever either container valve is opened.  

 

Need Some Deeper RV Study?

Hello Gary, thank you for your website, I enjoy the articles immensely. I was wondering if you could recommend a comprehensive technical publication for doing diagnostic work on RV refrigerators, hot water tanks and air-conditioning units? I realize there may be multiple publications involved and also may be specific to type but I am looking for somewhat more basic tech pubs, at least at first. 

I am fairly comfortable technically as I fix helicopters for a living, electrical -ac and dc, engines, general mechanical, hydraulics, pneumatics etc. However one thing I've learned after 35 years on helicopters-an expert in one field is usually an amateur in other fields. It will just make it easier for me to learn.  I do not have the basic working knowledge needed to foray into the inner workings of these appliances. Last summer our only a/c unit failed and I did find specific publications for it on line. After giving everything a good look I discovered -as is so often the case with machinery- an electrical connection to the compressor had cracked and finally broke off after creating enough resistance. A new connector and we were in business.

Anyway this taught me I needed more information about my coach systems "ready at hand" so I can be prepared for the next possible issue. Any advise would be welcomed. Mike V., (Parry Sound, ONT) 

The first thing I would recommend, Mike, is to contact each supplier manufacturer individually and obtain the owner’s manual or user’s guide for your particular model of refrigerator, water heater, furnace and air conditioner. If possible, also gather the repair manual or shop manual for each device. Of most importance is an accurate wiring diagram or schematic. Oftentimes, like you mentioned, some of these publications can be found online. But most product suppliers do not encourage RV owners to perform their own repairs. Preventive maintenance is another area and I highly encourage RVers to perform as many of the annual maintenance procedures as you can. But troubleshooting and repair is entirely a different animal. I’m sure you’ve found this out working on helicopters all those years.

In some cases, performing repairs requires specific diagnostic testers and equipment not normally found in the typical handyman’s tool kit. Also, specific training may also be required. As an example, reconditioning an absorption refrigerator cooling unit requires not only specific training, but also specialized equipment and hazardous materials training, etc. Same thing for evacuating and recharging a roof air conditioner. But many tasks are performed by RV owners, who, with proper guidance and preparation, can indeed perform their own troubleshooting and repair tactics successfully.

The individual textbooks we use to train professional RV service technicians are available directly from RVIA and can be purchased by anyone at their online store located here.

You can order the complete set, or just the books you want. They are updated periodically, by committee, to keep up with new information and practices. I’ve had the pleasure of serving on that committee for a few years now. The textbooks will certainly go deeper than any other type of book you will find. You may have to apply the info in the textbooks to your specific equipment, but all of the current practices are usually included in each textbook. 

You also might consider enrolling in some of their upcoming new programs. Anyone can enroll and learn about RV service training from some of the best experts in the country. As more information becomes available, I'll post it here on the RV Doctor Website.

Making Use of Extra Space in an RV

I have a 2011 Damon and want to add pull-out drawers to the dinette seats. Do you have a recommendation on the type of hardware I should use? I know I will need to build up the foundation the tracks will be on so as not to pinch off the seat belt connections. Are there other technical considerations I should be thinking about? Thank you! Dale W., (Union Springs, NY)

Personally I favor the smoother action of ball bearing drawer slides, Dale, but there are many price points to choose from at any of the big box home supply centers or your local hardware store. One thing to check first however; be sure sure you have clearance underneath each dinette seat to incorporate a new drawer assembly. Oftentimes, RV manufacturers use that “hidden” space to stash equipment such as the water pump, furnace (see photo) or other accoutrements. You certainly do not want to negate the return air or ventilation to any hidden components. Gain access from up above first and see just what might be under each seat. With storage a premium on most recreation vehicles, it would be odd that the manufacturer didn’t install a drawer or cabinet door if that space was truly available. But you never know; anything is possible! 

A Leaky RV Slideout... Really?

We have a 2009 Monaco and have had a leak in the bedroom slide from the very beginning. They found one leak in the beginning but then Monaco went out of business and we can't find anyone to help us. It takes about an hour or so for the water to start dripping in on the floor and it will continue to drip three hours after it stops raining. I just keep putting rolled up towels and it will soak them. We can see it dripping in but can't find out where it is coming from. If you have any ideas please let us know. We have enjoyed your seminars in Hershey, we come every year. I guess we should have ask you in person but didn't want to take up your  time. Thank you in advance for any help that you may give us. Gary & Linda B., (Wooster, OH)

Gary and Linda, sight unseen, this is a tough one! Slideouts remain inherently difficult to keep leak-proof forever. There has to be enough clearance for the room to slide in and out, yet gaskets and seals should be positioned to effectively wipe away moisture and keep water out whether the room is extended, retracted and all points in between. All slideouts are adjustable and it sounds like re-centering the room and adjusting the slide stops may be in order. As well as checking the integrity of the seals. Unfortunately, it will have to be looked at by a certified shop to be sure. It does not have to be a Monaco dealer by the way; just a good technician with slideout experience. If you don’t mind a short trip up to Willoughby, I can recommend a shop up there.

Sorry I can’t offer much else without actually taking a look and taking a few measurements. Let me know in Hershey this year how it works out for you.

Faulty Absorption Refrigerator Cooling Unit

I have a refrigerator that needs to have the cooling unit replaced.  Do you know of any place that I can get a new or rebuilt cooling unit for it? Thanks! Tom R., (Perry, FL)

Tom,  any respectable RV dealer or service center can order a new or reconditioned cooling unit from a number of rebuilders around the country. Any certified RV service tech should be able to replace the cooling unit. After all, it is in the curriculum we teach the professional technicians! It is not typically a do-it-yourself project without the proper training, however. But it is an easily learned task. But any established service shop should be able to swap out the unit in a few short hours. You'll need to know the brand and serial number of your absorption refrigerator and be sure to call ahead to inquire about availability first. 

It's a shame, but many RVers are coerced into buying a completely new refrigerator when a less-expensive alternative may be to just replace the cooling unit. A lot depends on the age of the refrigerator and if there are any other extenuating circumstances to consider before deciding whether to replace the refrigerator or just the cooling unit. Proper diagnosis, however, remains the number one consideration! Be sure it is indeed the cooling core at fault. 

Paint and Paper an RV Interior?

Can you paint and or wallpaper the inside of an RV? A service person said it will cause mold under the painted or papered area. I would love to brighten up the interior of a fairly new travel trailer. Patty K., (Shanksville, PA)

Patty, properly prepped, it is quite plausible to paint, tile, refinish or wallpaper inside an RV. It’s done all the time. Remodeling and renovating is actually a booming aftermarket business. Basically anything you do in a conventional house can be done in an RV, but preparation is the key. I’ve never heard of the act of painting or papering causing mold to appear. Moisture, dirt and microbes, yes, but not paint or paper. So brighten away! Just be sure to follow the instructions explicitly and know for sure what kind of surface you are covering.

Manual Override for RV Slideout Room

I have a 2011 Jayco trailer with a slide. The owner's manual states that the slide can be manually operated in an emergency but doesn't say how.  Could you help me with this? Paul G., (Panama City, FL)

Here you go Paul....

MANUALLY OVERRIDING YOUR SLIDEOUT SYSTEM

Your Power Gear slideout system is equipped with a manual override that allows you to extend or retract the room in the event of a loss of power.

NOTE: If the room does not move when the switch is pressed, check the following:

   • make sure the slideout system is turned on

   • battery is fully charged and connected

   • the transit bars are removed (if so equipped).

   • After the previous items have been checked and the room still does not move when

     the slideout switch is pressed, follow these simple steps to manually override your

     slideout room.

1. Turn ‘OFF’ the on/off switch or key (if so equipped). NOTE: The override will not work if the switch is turned on.

2. Locate the slideout electrical controller (refer to your dealer or RV manufacturer for location). There are (2) versions of the controller. For version 1, unplug the (6) pin wiring harness from the controller. For version 2, remove one of the motor leads, either the motor I or motor II lead from the controller.

3. Locate the slideout motor. It will be mounted to one of the slideout rails.

NOTE: If the RV has an underbelly or a cover over the motor, these parts must be removed to access the motor.

4. Rotate the brake lever, on the backside of the motor, counter-clockwise (looking from the rear of the motor) about 1/8 of a turn to the released position. This will release the brake that holds the room in place.

5. Locate the manual override for the slideout system.

6. The room is now free to move. Using either a 5/8” or 3/4” wrench or socket, crank the room either in or out completely (depending on your needs). 

NOTE: If the slideout system is supplied with a gearbox override (optional), use the crank handle to move the room.

7. When the room is fully in (or out) apply pressure to the wrench/ratchet and return the brake lever to its engaged position. This will ensure the room is locked into a sealed position.

8. Install the transit bars to the slideout room (if so equipped) and take the unit to an authorized dealer for service.

Warning!

WHEN THE MOTOR BRAKE IS DISENGAGED THE SLIDEOUT ROOM WILL NOT

LOCK INTO PLACE; THEREFORE, THE ROOM WILL NOT BE SEALED. WHEN THE

ROOM HAS BEEN MANUALLY RETRACTED, BE SURE TO INSTALL THE TRANSIT

BARS (IF SO EQUIPPED) AND RETURN THE MOTOR BRAKE LEVER TO ITS

NORMAL ENGAGED POSITION IN ORDER TO SEAL AND LOCK THE ROOM INTO

POSITION.