I am writing you for your opinion about an event that has taken place to our new trailer. We purchased a brand new unit from a local dealer last June and had many problems, (5 work orders worth). I dropped the trailer off on 11/2/12 and prior to taking it in for work I took the low point drain plugs off and put RV anti-freeze in all the traps. One of the repairs that was made involved repairing a leaking water pump. When I dropped it off I asked if the temperatures were going to be below freezing that they blow out the lines. I had to pick the trailer up on 1/15/13 because the service center needed the space and could not hold it until 2/15 when it was to be taken to the factory shop to have a wall and floor replacement completed.
When I was at my storage location I, by chance, checked the low point drains and found the shop had put new plugs on and had left the water lines, water pump,and water heater filled with water and the lines were frozen solid. I checked the weather data and found that we had 10 plus days of below freezing temps while my trailer was at their shop. I know that they could do a pressure check to see if there is a leak but I feel that there could be damage to fittings, elbows and connectors that may not leak today but could be fractured and could leak later. I have told them they need to take my trailer back and trade straight across for another trailer on their lot, as they would never warranty the water system for the life of the trailer. I paid $27,000 and feel that they created an issue they can't fix. Are my concerns valid? And am I being unreasonable for my request to trade me for another new trailer? Randy K., (Tacoma, WA)
Your situation is a sticky one for a couple of reasons Randy. First and foremost; did they add your request to winterize the trailer onto the Repair Order? If they did, then I feel they could be liable. If not, then it would be your word against theirs and if the dealer is truly interested in customer service, they should honor the situation anyway. It’s doubtful they would swap another trailer out for you. Some states have lemon laws that may or may not force a dealer to do that, but it may prove difficult to prove a “lemon” situation. Especially since they are apparently taking care of the warranty issues you do have.
It’s also totally up to the dealership to determine if they are willing to store your trailer for three months free of charge. If they are indeed charging you a storage fee, there should be a listing of liabilities as to the safety of the unit during the storage period. Check your written agreement with them.
At the very least, they should definitely perform the NFPA water leak tests as per the RVIA Standard. A leak test will determine if the system has any leaks. If no leaks are detected, it’s doubtful they would appear in the future due to the freezing endured in that one incident. Perhaps you can negotiate a Repair Order that states something along the lines of “if” leaks develop in the future, that they will be taken care of via the coach warranty or an extended warranty that the dealership will honor. Future water leaks will still be covered by the current warranty for the remainder of the warranty time.
So if they agreed to winterize the coach, they could be liable for any and all freeze-related repairs. It’s not unreasonable to ask that they swap the RV, but once you take the emotion out of it, it’s also not unreasonable that they would be willing to test and repair current leaks as well as future leaks that may develop. A lot would depend on what was actually contracted for...what is the exact wording of the agreements and repair orders, etc.
But keep in mind, I’m not an attorney though I have performed “expert witness” evaluations/testimony and I’m happy to say I’ve never had to testify at a trial; we’ve always managed to negotiate a settlement or come to a logical resolution amicable to both sides. To be very sure of all your courses of action, I do recommend you get professional legal advice though.
We have 39-foot Excursion motorhome. My wife's chair's footrest no longer retracts. What could be the problem? My local dealer was no help. Jim R., (no city/state)
Jim, it’s doubtful any RV service center will have an assortment individual component parts for the Flexsteel seats. Some may be able to diagnose and properly repair the foot rest, but an in-depth inspection would be necessary. Flexsteel does have a communications page on their website. Perhaps if you contact them they can provide additional assistance. Go to this page...
Hope this helps a little bit at least!
I have a 2003 Safari Zanzibar and want to redo the fabric around the slideout edges. It appears that the few screws on the front are not the only ones holding this trim on. Are they also attached from the back? How do I get to them? I enjoy your column. We have been RVing since 1967. Keep up the good work! King F., (Anderson, SC)
Wow, that’s a tough one without seeing it firsthand King. I’m guessing the fabric was installed prior to the slide room being inserted into the opening in the sidewall. It’s not uncommon for the room to be completely assembled independently of the RV, then slid into place and connected.
Perhaps if you partially retracted the room you can use a mirror to look behind the fascia to see if there are other fasteners holding it in place. Or maybe send a few photos so I can get some idea of what the situation actually looks like. That would be my best guess without seeing in in person, unfortunately.
UPDATE!
King's latest response: Gary thanks for you insight. As you suggested, I pulled in a slide part way and found that
there were no screws on the back side, so I removed all the exterior screws
and the molding came right off. I guess I should have tried this first
before bothering you. We have already finished reupholstering all 11 pieces and reinstalled them. They look as good as original. If anyone asks, it was quite easy and no sewing involved but lots of
staples! Thanks again for your insight and excellent information to all us RV'ers. King
PS: This our 9th motorhome in the past 43 years and I do 80-90% of all maintenance on them.
Gary's Response:
Way to go! That's why you're the King!
I'm in the process of buying an RV. I think that I want a 34.5-foot Thor Palazzo. I keep hearing stories that with a rig this size you are limited to the places you can go, but I see lots of big rigs on the road. Where do they spend the night? Does a rig this size have problems in National Parks? We will be able to be on the road in the beginning for about six weeks, then skip a week and be back on the road for two weeks. I'm having trouble pulling the trigger on the purchase. I like the amenities and the diesel power. We like going off the beaten track and I think that the Thor will not allow us to do that. Any suggestions? David K., (Phoenix, AZ)
Actually, 34-feet is not that overly long at all David. Some Class A coaches are over 10-feet longer and many Class C motorhomes can approach 34-feet. Super C’s exist that are almost 40-feet long. So I think your fears may be unfounded as far as gaining access to campgrounds and parks. Obviously, this is not a coach for off-roading, but certainly “off-the-beaten-track” is not outside the bounds of a 34-footer. Just be wise when traveling. Do your advance homework. Most all National Parks will post restrictions for length, weight and height on their websites. So if everything falls into place, enjoy!
Hey Doc, what is the average life span of an RV water heater? Jim N., (no city/state)
Jim, that’s really hard to quantify. Under proper use and a proactive preventive maintenance regimen, there’s no reason an RV water heater cannot have an indefinite life. The corrosiveness and amount of mineral water it is exposed to obviously will have an influence, but if you flush it out properly once or twice a year, perform proper winterizing techniques, regular chlorinating procedures, and clean & service the gas components annually, the inner tank should last indefinitely.
If you have a Suburban water heater, keeping a close eye on the anode rod once a year or so will help extend your water heater's life as well. Long live all RV water heaters! Unless you decide to opt for a tankless water heater. Check out this review...
I have a 1986 Avion travel trailer with an anodized aluminum exterior that is getting white-crusted dots that progress to pitting in the middle, pretty deeply in some places. I have researched a number of sources for suggestions (including Fleetwood, who used to manufacture the Avion), but none have panned out. Do you have any ideas? Apparently the anodized aluminum is not supposed to be polished with anything abrasive or acid-washed. For periodic maintenance, I was using aircraft surface treatment as recommended by the manual, but this is doing nothing for the crusting/pitting. Please help -- this is destroying the finish. I am a full-timer who lives in the Avion and I love it very much. Courtney C., (Costa Mesa, CA)
This is a tough one Courtney; especially without actually seeing the damage in person. A document we found on an architectural website might yield some good advice, but it does go a little against conventional wisdom for most aluminum sided travel trailers. At least from the manufacturer's perspective.
The article recommends an "abrasive cleaning pad" be used on the exterior of aluminum-cladded building sections to remove pitting. These are the pads used for cleaning tile and are generally a white "non woven" pad similar to those found on the back of a household sponge. The key is the color of the pad; white! If the pad cannot be found at your local grocery store, they are usually available at one of the big box stores or at an industrial hardware supply store. Be sure the pad is white. These pads are sold in other colors and they vary in abrasion depending upon the color and possibly the manufacturer. For consumer use, the product is usually called simply, a tile scrubber.
As to the root cause, I'm wondering if you frequent the seashore or park the coach near a pool? Salt in the air and pool chemical vapors are very hard on aluminum surfaces regardless if they are painted or anodized.
Though contradictory to the owners manual, I'm thinking a mild abrasive pad soaked in vinegar will effectively remove those dots if they are salt or chlorine related. That architectural article suggested a small test application first. Try a small area on the roof or the underbelly where it won't be seen as readily. If it successfully removes the raised dots, try another small section. Remember, this is to be done in small sections so as to control the application. Once completed, the area should be given an overall "acid" bath with the vinegar and then washed with a soap and water solution and then finally rinsed with clear water and dried. Afterwards the aviation polish can be reapplied or I would suggest Protect All, which is much easier to apply. The worst-case scenario is the necessity to replace the infected panels with new ones.
I have a 2009 Montana 2980. I keep wearing out the left rear tire, about 2 inches of the inside like the camber is out of spec. The rest of it looks like new, about 8000 miles or less on it and all of other 3 tires look like new. I had it in the dealer where I bought it in Wisconsin just before my warranty was over and they couldn't find anything wrong with it but Keystone did give me a new tire and sent me on my way. I keep check on my air so I know that's not it. I wore another tire out in about the same amount of miles and am starting on my third one while the rest still look like new. Keystone had me take it to another shop and they told Keystone the axle was bent 2 feet in from that wheel. They claimed that I hit something with it. I know I didn't, so when I got the trailer home I put a straight edge on the axle and I checked the same on the front axle and they both come out with the camber on it, so I know that it is not bent there. This has done this with different rims so that is not it either. I do have another appointment with the dealer where I had it the first time but I don't know if it is going to do any good or not as they couldn't find anything wrong the first time. Please let me know if you can help me with this problem. The type of tire is a Goodyear Marathon 235/80/R 16 rated E. Thanks! Ervin P., (Seattle, WA)
So sorry to hear about your tire wear problem Ervin. That CAN get expensive if not corrected. Couple things...I'm attaching some Dexter Axle info sheets that may help your shop determine if that axle is indeed installed properly. There's an info sheet plus an installation guide. Also, you can request the actual service manual for your axles by going to this page on the Dexter site.
It's quite possible the hub assembly and backing plate have been mis-positioned, probably during the initial installation, but it will require a detailed inspection and close measurements to be sure. That's why I'm hoping the installation guide will be helpful for a knowledgeable troubleshooter to verify.
I'm sure you're aware, but be sure the tire is inflated to the proper air pressure based solely on the weight that tire is carrying. A number of weight measurements are required to determine exactly how much weight each tire is supporting. Let me know if you need guidance for weighing your rig.
But after a close inspection and some crucial measurements, a good tech should be able to determine the cause of your uneven tire wear. I don't think the tire itself is the issue unless the inflation is incorrect for the amount of weight it is carrying. I'm guessing it's something peculiar to your trailer and that axle. Something in that alignment is just not correct. Of course, I know you're already aware of that!
We have a Cedar Creek that we are having a problem with our inside and the outside electrical receptacles. It has no power. We have checked the fuses and everything looked okay at the panel. Where do we go from here? It all seems to be on one side of the RV. It's a 5th wheel with 3 slides. Thanks for any help you can offer! Wanda W., (Meridian, MS)
Wanda, the dead side of your Cedar Creek is probably on the same circuit as the ground fault circuit interrupter, (GFCI); probably located in the lavatory. If all the circuit breakers are fine at the panel, the GFCI has probably tripped causing all the receptacles downstream of it to lose power. Simply reset the button on the GFCI and all power should return. The coach, however, must be plugged into shoreline power in order to test and reset the GFCI.
Here's another related question in which I go a little further into detail about the GFCI.
I have a 2005 Lance Light pickup camper. The fridge runs on propane and so does the stove and heater. So all I basically need is power for the lights and stereo system. When using lights and stereo for about three hours, the deep cycle RV 12-volt battery gets low and I have to start my diesel pickup to recharge it from the truck's generator (or alternator?). I don't like all that noise and smoke when out elk hunting. My questions are: can I just use an extension chord coming from my 2000 watt gasoline generator and plug directly into the outside power receptacle on my camper for a power source? And will this also recharge my internal deep cycle RV battery or should I use a battery charger and jumper cables for this operation when using the generator? In other words will a regular 120-volt outlet or generator power recharge my RV battery with the power coming thru the Camper's power grid system? Thomas B., (Worland, WY)
Yes, you can simply plug the camper into any 120-volt AC source to power the camper. Whether it charges your auxiliary battery depends on if the camper is equipped with a charging converter or a simple AC-to-DC converter. If it only has a simple converter you can upgrade to a decent charging converter to charge the battery. I could find no info online as to whether it’s a battery charging converter or not. It should state so in the owner’s manual, however.
When using a portable generator, be sure its internal ground connection is intact. You’ll want to have a good safety ground from the AC power source. When you’re plugged into a campground, it too should be a grounded connection. Also be sure the sizing of the extension cord is suitable for the amount of amperage it will be passing.
We own a Keystone Passport travel trailer with a fiberglass exterior. I like to keep a coat of wax on the trailer to protect it. The trailer has many decorative decals and I have been told that wax can harm the decals. It is a real pain to wax the trailer and not the decals. Is there a recommended product that can be used on both the fiberglass and the decals? Ken H., (Aurora, CO)
Frankly Ken, I believe a lot depends on the type and quality of the material used to make the decals and/or applied graphics and how well they were applied; in other words, to what degree of preparation, etc. My research shows many various comments and suggestions for applying or not applying wax over graphics. Some have had success while others have not. Mequiars product specialist, Michael Stoops had this to say:
“You can wax over vinyl stickers, decals and graphics if they are smooth and glossy in appearance. For those that are matte finished it's best not to wax over them, but we have seen some really good success with Gold Class Trim Detailer lightly applied to matte finished graphics.
A couple of things to look out for:
- Pointed edges on decals can be prone to lifting if rubbed over too often and once they lift, it's pretty much game over for that decal.
- Dark colored graphics against dark paint (think red on black, etc) may show dried wax along the edges that you'd have to clean up with some Quik Detailer and a soft brush. Not a serious problem, just a little extra detail work.”
All that said, I would suggest trying it in on a very small decal first to determine if it will work. Having a spare decal on hand in case it doesn’t, is probably another good idea. But with all the varied suggestions found all over the Internet, I’d say it’s a crap shoot when it comes to waxing over graphics. With so many unknown factors, it’s almost a mandate to try it and see if any harm is done. But there is clearly a risk, as determined by some.
I think it would be wise to ask Keystone and see what they recommend and also to see if they have any spare decals just in case.
We're RV wannabes and still learning so please pardon the ignorance of my question. I'm very interested in the tankless water heaters. Just makes more sense; less weight, greater fuel economy, etc. My question is, can you still boondock with a tankless water heater? Or are you limited to a direct water hookup? Virginia S., (Dix, IL)
Indeed you can still boondock with either of the two available brands of tankless water heaters, Virginia. They are both powered by 12-volt DC battery voltage and burn propane, so as long as the battery bank is healthy and you have propane aboard, you can still have hot water flowing from the fresh water container via the on-board water pump. No need for cold showers. Ever!
I am planning on replacing the six tires on my 25-foot Class C motorhome. Presently I have Michelin X-Radial All Season, LT225/75R16 LRE purchased in 2004 on there. I do like the ride and the tires have held up very well, especially the sidewalls. But these tires have doubled in cost since then! Are there less costly, but equally performing tires you can recommend? Larry, (Mission Viejo, CA)
For tire issues specifically Larry, I like to seek the advice from the preeminent tire expert in the RV Industry, Walter Cannon at the RV Safety & Education Foundation. I sent your question to him and here’s his response:
Tire brand recommendations are always tough, everyone has their favorite. You will never go wrong with the Michelin; however Bridgestone/Firestone, Goodyear and many others make equally good tires. In the 16” size there are many choices so just stay with a brand you recognize and make sure you keep with the ‘Load Range E.’ Many tire dealers are not as familiar with RV usage as they should be! Hope this helps. Walter
I would further add, be sure to check the DOT code on the sidewalls to determine the actual date of manufacture prior to the purchase, regardless of the brand you choose. When shopping by price, be sure the least expensive are not simply priced that way because of their age! Check out this post...
I often get frustrated when reading articles and books having to do with RV problems because most are pointed toward the use and care of more current models. There is a whole bunch of us RVers out there who own and enjoy older RVs. Personally, I currently have a 1988 Toyota Dolphin, though my first was a 1984 Dolphin purchased in 1991, which sadly was totaled by a drunken driver who swerved into my driveway at 3:30 in the morning. I have thoroughly enjoyed my happy little vehicle/home and am not even sure I would want one of those newer, sleek, and overpriced glamor buses. However, I would really appreciate good solid information on the maintenance of my "baby." Could you please devote a few articles, or parts of articles, to specific problems that crop up with these oldies but goodies? Jean B-H., (Modesto, CA)
Well said Jean! And I wholeheartedly agree! Though most of the current articles and reviews will always concern the newer RVs out there, I’ve personally seen many of the older coaches, well cared for, still on the road for twenty/thirty years or more. There is a whole segment devoted to the “vintage” market with clubs and rallies surrounding their older units.
That said, many of the questions I get to the RV Doctor Website pertain to some older coaches. I usually publish the year of the coaches in question when it is provided. But I hear you. Thankfully, many of the technical areas I cover in my articles or on the RV Doc Website are directly related to any RV, regardless of vintage. Propane is still propane, 12-volts DC is still 12-volts DC, etc. So much of the info can be applied to any coach.
The micro-mini-motorhome market kinda went awry when axle and wheel issues came about. All the chassis makers simply walked away from the RV industry because of the weight-related problems. My dad’s last RV was a custom mini built on an old Toyota chassis. I wish I still had that RV. He built it from the chassis up. And at the Good Sam Rally held in Daytona Beach, there was a vintage display of still-in-use RVs going back a few decades. You would have liked it!
I'd like your educated and experienced mind to help me choose an air bag helper spring system for my Class C, Gulfstream BT Cruiser motorhome with leaf-springs and a Ford V-10 engine. I would appreciate any assistance or contacts before plunking down the money for such a system. I read all your newsletters and glean a lot of info from them. Thanks! William M., (Columbia, MO)
William, I’ve always been a fan of the Firestone Ride-Rite air spring for most applications, though there some other systems that will likely suffice as well. However, prior to the purchase of any “helper” type product, I always recommend a thorough and detailed inspection of the complete suspension system and obtaining the accurate weights at each tire position. There’s no sense in applying a “bandage” mentality if a pre-existing condition is the primary cause. In other words, eliminate all guessing and start with a known entity before investing in a product installation. A good truck shop will be able to inspect and measure your current rig and rectify any ills discovered with the existing equipment or set-up. If the coach still requires additional suspension support, then you can opt to install the air springs. The Ride-Rites would be my choice. Be sure the shop you choose is very familiar with such an add-on installation.
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I am writing you for your opinion about an event that has taken place to our new trailer. We purchased a brand new unit from a local dealer last June and had many problems, (5 work orders worth). I dropped the trailer off on 11/2/12 and prior to taking it in for work I took the low point drain plugs off and put RV anti-freeze in all the traps. One of the repairs that was made involved repairing a leaking water pump. When I dropped it off I asked if the temperatures were going to be below freezing that they blow out the lines. I had to pick the trailer up on 1/15/13 because the service center needed the space and could not hold it until 2/15 when it was to be taken to the factory shop to have a wall and floor replacement completed. 
Thanks for visiting the RV Doctor Website, the official home of author and technical educator, Gary Bunzer, featuring select questions from his popular column, The RV Doctor.