Stripped Threads on RV Water Heater Anode

This pertains to a  Suburban water heater, specifically the anode rod threading. I cannot get the new anode rod threading to "catch" and screw in straight. It's been getting more difficult every year but this year I'm stymied. Any help? David B., (St. George, UT) 

David, as will happen every now and again with repeated procedures, the female threads on the water heater tank fitting have likely become damaged or corroded over time. In the shop we use a tool called a “thread chaser.” Tool makers manufacturer both male and female thread chasers. Similar to a tap or a die, (but different), thread chasers are designed specifically to clean and straighten existing threads only. To use a standard tap may actually remove portions of the existing threads as well as cut new threads; something to be avoided in a water heater tank fitting. You’ll need a 3/4-inch NPT thread chaser since the replacement anode will likely have a tapered pipe thread. As a last resort, using a 3/4-inch NPT standard tap will work if you’re very careful. But the pros will use a correctly sized thread chaser.

Also, be sure to flush out the heater tank after chasing the threads in case any fragments of corrosion, metal or debris fell into the tank during your repair process. A couple wraps of thread sealing tape or an appropriate fresh water pipe joint compound on the first two or three threads of the new anode should have you back in business in no time.

RV Dump Valve Positioning

I saw your video about electric Drain Master Valves on the Drain Master web site.  I noticed that in your demo, the valve was installed in a vertical position.  I already have electric valves on my Beaver Patriot Thunder but the plumbing was done such that the valves are in the horizontal position.  Do you think installing the Drain Master Valve in a horizontal position will be a problem? Dick Y., (Enid, OK)

Indeed, Drainmaster and I both recommend that any termination valve be positioned with the valve body facing upward, Dick; or as upward as possible. Here’s why. That portion of the valve body is simply a cavity between the two halves of the valve where the actual “gate” portion will slide into during evacuations. When the valve is in the closed position, it’s just an empty void. If you look at a common termination valve when it is open, (obviously after you’ve dumped the tank!), you’ll notice the two seals on either side of the gate never completely close against each other. They are there to keep the gate from leaking when the valve is closed. They only make contact with the gate. With that open seam between the two seal rings when the valve is opened during draining of the tank, liquids, tissue and waste can migrate into that void if the valve is positioned horizontally or downward. If the valve body is positioned upwards, gravity will prevent that void from filling during evacuations.

However, your coach, with its bottom-draining holding tank is a little different. As you are aware, on the Patriot Thunder, the valve is positioned flat and mounted directly to the bottom of the holding tank, so your only optional positioning of the valve is in a 360-degree circular fashion. The valve will always remain flat. One problem with the design of your plumbing bay is that the holding tank was not supported properly and it had a tendency to warp during the process of filling the holding tank. This warpage as the tank fills causes stress on the fitting, the valve and all the plumbing downstream. In some cases, the bottom of the tank (and the installed termination valve), may actually be skewered a bit and not totally flat.

If it’s not possible to rework (to some degree of difficulty), the existing waste plumbing fittings and piping to accommodate a new valve in the “body up” position, your best bet is to see if the fitting that is welded into the bottom of the tank leans to any particular direction. If you can see it with your naked eye, then try to install the new Drainmaster valve with the body turned toward the highest point. It won’t be much, but it just may be enough to keep moisture and contaminants from gaining access to that void in the body of the valve.

Since gravity is your friend when draining the holding tank, it will likely drain quickly through that bottom outlet and pass through the valve before it readily has a chance to gather moisture and waste remnants. Horizontal tank outlets are more prone to that problem. Another good thing in your favor; the Drainmaster electric gate valve is now constructed with new, precision-fit stainless steel gears and any intrusion of moisture in the gearbox will likely have no affect in the long run anyway. I think you’ll be fine just replacing the existing valve with the Drainmaster. It might also be a good idea to add additional support for that shelf the holding tank sits on. I think a couple short sections of 2X4 wedged between the bottom of the plumbing bay and the bottom of the holding tank shelf should help keep the tank from flexing and warping during the time it is being filled.

Re-using RV Anti-Freeze

I winterized my RV last year with RV antifreeze. I did not use the camper this summer or fall and never anti-winterized it. Will the antifreeze last a second winter? John V., (Mt. Vernon, IL)

John, the short answer is yes; performed properly, a winterized RV with RV anti-freeze will still be viable for a second winter. In fact, in my training seminars, I recommend capturing the anti-freeze during the de-winterizing procedures after the first winter and re-using it again for a second season. You can always "test" the liquid to be sure, but I've heard from many RVers who re-use the RV anti-freeze. After the second winter, it’s probably best to replace the anti-freeze for the next winterizing procedures however. It depends on the severity of your winter season, but it’s entirely possible to use the same RV anti-freeze for at least two seasons.  

Securing a Table to RV Paneling

I read your articles and columns for years and was interested about your discussion of nutserts. Will nutserts work on the inner walls of an RV? Paper covered thin plywood with foam backing. We have a wall mounted folding table that keeps coming loose from the wall. I would like to secure it permanently. I'm wondering if the nutserts would work? Harold K. (no city, no state)

Harold, the nutserts I mentioned in the column are specifically designed for thin metals or fiberglass. There are other hollow-wall fasteners that are similar that will work better in wood paneling. As long as your table isn't too heavy and you're only trying to stabilize it rather than have the weight solely supported by the wall anchors. The best would be a molly-type fitting that installs simply by tightening the included screw. The type you need will have teeth that actually grip the paneling as the screw is tightened. Once the expansion takes place inside the wall, the screw is removed and reinstalled through the table brackets.

The above photo shows a variety of mollies. The two in the middle have a pointed end and are designed primarily for sheet rock. The other two are designed for paneling. They are available in sizes ranging from very small to 1/4-inch in diameter. I would suggest this type would be better suited for securing your folding table to the wall. Simply drill a hole slightly smaller in diameter than the molly and force it in. As you tighten the screw, it expands inside the wall. You’ll want one designed for the thickness of your existing paneling. They are readily available at any of the big box home improvement stores.

RV Tub Will Not Drain Properly

I have a 1977 Layton travel trailer and it has a bathtub/shower combo, and the tub suddenly started filling up with water, not draining and I cannot locate the problem. I checked the outside water lines and there is water all over the ground and a small continuous drip. It has never happen before, I am puzzled and have very little knowledge of RV repairs, please give me an idea of how I might be able to fix this issue. Leslie R., (Yakima, WA)

Leslie, I almost hate to ask this, but...have you emptied the gray water holding tank lately? The tub will likely drain into a separate gray water tank, but in some cases may drain into the black (solid) waste tank. I'm not sure how it is with your Layton (I can barely remember what I did yesterday, let alone something Layton did back in 77!) 

If the tank is empty then the problem could be a plugged P-trap or blockage anywhere between the tub and tank. A venting issue for that holding tank will also create drainage problems. If the vent stack has slipped deeper into the tank (below the level of the contents), the tub will likely back up or drain very slowly. But the fact you have water leaking tells me you probably have a full holding tank and/or a failed termination valve (dump valve), and it simply backed up into the tub.  

If, by chance, the shower drains into the black holding tank, shared with the toilet, and you only evacuated the gray tank, check to make sure both holding tanks are completely empty and see if the problem persists. Also, with both holding tanks empty you can easily find out which tank the shower drains into by leaving the termination valve open on one tank, then run some water through the tub and see which tank it drains through. It is permissible, by the way, to have another fixture drain into the black tank and many floor plans mandate this unfortunate feature. 

It's also recommended to upgrade your termination valves to electric gate valves. Check out the Drainmaster electric valves.

Motorhome Tire Squeal

We have a 35-foot Sunova with a Blue Ox tow bar system. The "towed" is a 2006 Jeep Liberty Sport automatic transmission, 4x4, equipped with a Brake Buddy. The system is great, easy to use and the Jeep tows great when we are on the highway. In normal turns and maneuvering it is also great. However, on some bends in the road like traffic circles, highway on/off ramps, etc., we hear what sounds like a loud tire squeal (like tires when brakes are locked). The brake system is not engaging and the steering is not locking on the towed vehicle. It has occurred both when braking and when not braking the motorhome. There are no visible signs of rubbing or tire wear and no smell of burning rubber; just the loud noise. I've talked with Blue Ox support, done Internet searches and spoke with other people who tow vehicles and no one has ever heard of this. I went over the installation with Blue Ox and it is totally within their specifications. My rear camera does not show anything out of the ordinary when this occurs, and it is very intermittent so I can't say exactly what conditions might cause it. Any suggestions how to isolate this and/or ideas of what it could be? Bob D., (Toms River, NJ)

I have to say, Bob, you've stumped me also. I've not heard of this exact problem. Do you feel any type of subtle tug; as if the Jeep brakes suddenly, but for an instant? I can only offer a couple of suggestions. First, be sure the Jeep's front end is in alignment and all tires (on both vehicles) are pressurized according to the weight they are carrying. Be sure to include any cargo you stow in the Jeep while towing. And secondly, to maybe pinpoint it better, have someone ride in the Jeep while you're towing and turning. Be sure this is permitted based on local restrictions, however. But having someone in the Jeep, even if just in a big parking lot, will quickly determine if the noise is emanating from the Jeep or from the motorhome. This is indeed a puzzler! Let me know what you find out!

Follow-up: Hi Gary! Actually, you were correct; it turned out to be the front-end alignment. I spoke with a knowledgeable service manager for the local Itasca dealer. He immediately said alignment when I described the symptoms; sent me to the tire shop he dealt with and they found the right front toe was out. Not enough to show a problem when driving or during normal cornering, but enough to make the Jeep track wide in turns when towed. This was even news to the folks at Blue Ox. Right now I can still hear a little tire squeal if I have to do a tight S-turn; sort of like bending around to the left in a traffic circle, then having to counter-steer to move right to exit the circle. I just know now to take them a little slower. The folks at Blue Ox said for that I should try to attach two bungee cords to hold the steering wheel centered. On small smart cars, the wheels run all over the place while towing straight so the bungees are needed for that. But for the Jeep, it might help it return to center quicker so it can make the counter-turn in the opposite direction.

There you go Bob! Glad it all worked out.

Ice on RV Refrigerator Fins

We are new full-timers and I’ve noticed our Norcold refrigerator fins inside the unit are icing up. What causes this or is this normal? Should I ask how to prevent this? Casey D., (St. Louis, MO)

Casey, the cause for severe icing on those fins could be a couple of things. Depending on the model Norcold, it may be a mis-positioned thermister, which is the device used to determine the cold setting on the thermostat. Or it could simply be a faulty door gasket leaking air. The first thing to do is perform, what we call, the dollar bill test. Close the lower refrigerator door(s) onto a dollar bill at various points around the entire seal, (if you have a fancy coach, use a hundred dollar bill!). With the door closed onto the bill, tug on it. You should feel a slight drag or resistance on the bill as you pull it out. If it just falls out or you feel no tug, chances are the gasket is faulty and needs replacing. Be sure to do this at multiple positions around the entire seal of each door. If that test passes with flying colors, then send me the model number and I’ll look up the exact positioning of the thermister on those fins. Also be sure you have plenty of room for air to move about inside the cabinet section. Avoid placing wide trays that may block some of the convection movement inside the box. This too, could cause some icing on those secondary evaporator fins. 

Blowout Plug Redux

In reference to your mention of using a blowout plug for winterizing I used to use compressed air for winterizing as well, but was told that this method doesn't get the water out of the check valves in the water pump and could subject the pump to rupture. I would be most interested in your comments on this. Bob K., (Murray, UT)


 Bob, keep in mind, the entire fresh water piping system is factory-tested by the coach manufacturer and tested again by the dealer at pressures around 80 PSI. So anything less than that will not create a problem within the system. In fact, in previous years the test standard was 100 PSI. The backflow preventer located at or near the water pump outlet becomes nothing more than a closed valve when air pressure is introduced through the city water inlet so there’s no danger to the pump from that side. Now it is important that the water pump indeed has a check valve located at or near the pump outlet. ShurFlo makes one line of pumps that does not come equipped with an internal check valve. In those cases, the manufacturer will install a separate check valve fitting at the pump outlet. All said, I’ve never seen a water pump damaged by injecting air into the system through the city water entry. But you make a good point about the remaining water inside the pump on the other side of the check valve! One remedy, after emptying the fresh water tank, is to remove the outlet tubing on the pump and the briefly run the pump to eject as much moisture as possible. Running dry for those few seconds will not damage the modern RV water pump. What little moisture that may remain inside the pump head will not likely cause any damage should temps dip below freezing. 

Sealing RV Clearance Lamps

I bought a 27-foot Minnie Winnie back in 1992 and have maintained it quite well. I have been able to repair all of the run/clearance light issues and I'm now ready to re-caulk them to keep the water out. I have your book and have cruised your website and the Internet but have not found specific instructions. Should I caulk all around the fixture base and then add some caulk all around the lens before putting it back on the base fixture? I recently had to take a hammer to one of my lenses that I had caulked a few years ago to get it off and it wasn't easy to find an exact replacement lens. Also, want to thank you for your You Tube video on adjusting the RV water heater flame. It helped me understand how my water heater really worked. Before I saw your video, I had replaced the electrode assembly because I thought the main burner wasn't lighting, but it was. So I cleaned the air adjustment tube, put on a new electrode assembly and still no hot water. It was driving me crazy so I reviewed more of your info and finally figured out the problem - it was one of my water heater bypass valves in the wrong position! Thanks for all the help! Cathe R., (West Springfield, MA)

Cathe, as far as clearance markers and trim lamps, always seal behind the fixture itself; between the fixture base and the side or cap on the RV. Butyl caulk is commonly used for this, but I recommend Eternabond double-stick tape. It simply is not prone to drying out and cracking over time like some butyl caulks or putty tapes. Do NOT seal the lens itself to the fixture. Many clearance lamp lenses are simply snapped into place (others are secured with screws), and all must have some method of disassembly in the likely event a bulb will eventually burn out and require replacing. Your “hammer” reference withstanding! You may even want to upgrade and switch to LED lamps.  

Great follow-through on the water heater issue! I’m happy to hear the information was helpful.

Uneven Tire Wear on Travel Trailer

I noticed that my travel trailer tires seemed to be wearing unevenly side to side. I measured to ground, the side with the most tire wear and it is about 3/4-inch lower to the ground than the other side. This is after replacing all the tires and checking inflation. I then weighed both sides of the trailer and found that the side with the most tire wear was about 500 pounds more. This is the side where the refrigerator is directly over the tires. We presently have over 15,000 miles on the trailer. Is there anything we can do to make the trailer level. I know because of the design there is little that can be done to equalize the weight side to side. Jim, (North Augusta, SC)

Jim, first of all, congratulations! You are well on your way to better balance and longer tire life simply by becoming aware of weight and balance issues. One question I have is; how was the 500 pound difference determined? The only way to determine the left – right loading is by individual wheel scales (per NTHSA). Without individual load measurements we'd only be guessing and may not pinpoint the correct fix for your issue. Weighing RV’s on a flat (platform) scale has proven to be inaccurate at best (again by NTHSA). Using individual scale readings is the only way we can determine the exact cause of your issue, since every RV is different.

I do need to ask if the heavy side is exceeding a tire rating or the axle rating? This would necessitate a more aggressive action if so.

I would look for items I could move to help the balance. Every little thing adds up and remember, just 50 pounds going to the other side equals a 100 pound difference; -50 pounds on one side and +50 pounds on the other, we are now 100 pounds closer to being balanced.

The RV Safety & Education Foundation recommends inflating trailer tires to the sidewall inflation pressure unless we have individual wheel position weights to work with. A one-inch difference in ride height on a trailer is not very much, considering the big picture, but simply adding a band-aid to make the unit level will not cure the load issue. The heavy side will still be the heavy side though it will simply appear to sit level.
 

Another cause for the difference could be what's called "spring sag." When vehicles remain loaded over a period of time, the springs will take a ‘set’ and the heavier side would be more dramatic than the lighter side. With a trailer that has had a 500 pound higher load on one side for several years and many miles, you can understand the consequences, right? This is, however, not a difficult or expensive issue to address; simply install new springs. Just be sure the shop is reputable and installs the proper rated springs.

Balancing the load and having the correct inflation pressures will have the most positive effect on tire wear, however, all the issues you bring up will contribute to uneven tire wear.

Repair Help for Electronic RV Components

Any sources for repair service for a Statpower TrueCharge 40+ battery charger? I really like the unit and would rather have it repaired rather than replace it. The manufacturer declines to repair it. Howard S., (Melbourne, FL)

Howard, the sad truth today is that rarely is it feasible to have any electronic component repaired. Many electronic parts and sub-components are assembled overseas and simply not worth the time and effort. By the time one pays for shipping the unit to a repair center, parts and labor, etc., you’re about near the cost of a new replacement unit. We’ve indeed become a throw-away society, even within the RV realm. Component-level diagnostics are quickly fading. No longer is it possible or feasible to rebuild a generator carburetor or to replace individual electronic board components, for example.

Now that said, thankfully there is a resource; a facility that does perform such repairs, even on the obsolete components. Contact Mark and M&M Electronics. They are located in Ohio. Here’s their website:

M&M Electronics

He’ll probably tell you the same thing; to upgrade to the new Xantrex TrueCharge2 battery charger, but at least it’s worth a phone call to find out. It might be worth it to have him, at least diagnose the problem with your 40+.

Better RV Battery Charging

I am reviewing the handout I received from you at the battery maintenance seminar at the Seattle RV Show and have some questions. I have an Itasca motorhome with two 12-volt batteries wired parallel. I have been dry camping with this rig and have nearly run down the coach batteries after a few days. When that happens I have to start my RV generator (which runs on propane) to charge the coach batteries up some. I thought I remember you saying that this is not very effective. Is running the RV engine more effective or taking it out and driving it a little? I am also thinking of buying a portable 2000 watt generator that I can just connect to the coach batteries and charge them in place. My plan is to buy the little generator and connect to the coach batteries in place without unhooking the battery cables. I have been told I can charge the two coach batteries together by hooking the positive clip to the positive terminal of one battery and the negative clip to the negative post of the other battery. Will buying the 2000 watt generator, which has a built in 8-amp charger, do the job? Jim G., (Seattle, WA)

Jim, I'm glad the seminar prompted some further contemplation on your part! And you remembered correctly; most modern RV generators do not have a dedicated battery charging circuit. They simply produce the 120-volt AC output that further powers a converter/charger or, in some cases, an inverter/charger for on-board battery charging. 

As for connecting the load and a charger, both the load and the charger should be connected to the positive terminal of one battery and the negative terminal of the other battery in a two-battery, 12-volt parallel set-up. 

But in my opinion, 8-amps would not be sufficient for effectively charging your battery bank. The general rule of thumb is C/5. “C” being the total amp-hour capacity of your battery bank, divided by 5, which equals the output amperage necessary to fully charge the bank in the least amount of time, without the fear of over-charging. This presupposes the battery charger is a sophisticated, 3-step charger. If your batteries are Group 27, you can store about 210 amp-hours, or so, of current since the two are connected in parallel. 210 divided by 5 means you’ll need a battery charger that can perform a bulk charge of about 40-amps. Anything less, simply will take much longer to charge and risk overheating the batteries.

Now the engine alternator will likely put out a lot more current, but it’s not very effective or efficient to actually run the motorhome engine just for battery charging purposes. Your best bet is a dedicated battery charger. You already have an on-board generator, so a portable generator just for charging the batteries is not what I would recommend.  

I have recommended the TrueCharge 2 battery charger since it came onto the market. You can read my review here. See what you think. I think it would be a much better option.

 

Repair or Replace RV Electric Steps?

We are in the process of updating our Holiday Rambler and my outside automatic steps need new bushings. They are SCS/Frigette steps. I've been told that a dealer will want to replace the steps. If so what brand do you recommend? Do you think I need to replace them? Jean K., (Madison, WI)

Jean, it would be difficult for me to condemn your automatic steps without taking some electrical measurements and performing some diagnostics, but there have been numerous, publicly documented issues with the SCS/Frigette electric steps. From poor design to broken bolts to failed modules. Parts are still available, so it’s doubtful it will be absolutely necessary to replace the entire unit. But from the research I’ve done, and the fact that you are “updating” your HR, I’d see what the repair center had to say (it might be a quick fix), then make a decision whether to repair or replace. Personally, I’ve been a fan of Kwikee products for a number of years. If the decision is to fully replace the entire assembly, I’d opt for Kwikee.

Objective RV Research Before the Sale

We enjoyed attending your seminars at the Hershey RV Show. We do not own a RV yet, but are doing our research to learn about what we want; size, layout, etc. We will be buying a used diesel Class A motorhome, 40-foot or above. We wanted to ask you if there is a website that compares and rates every single make/model of motorhome based on such criteria as comfort, dependability, ride, value, maintenance issues, etc. This info would be so helpful to us in making our decision as to what motorhome to purchase in the future. Brian M., (PA) 

Brian, in all honesty, unbiased opinions (read: unpaid for), or non-funded evaluations or ratings are probably going to be difficult to find for any type of RV, across the board. Here's what I usually suggest: Narrow your choices, then contact each manufacturer and ask them to convince you why you should purchase their coach. If they seem disinterested in trying to convince you....well, that speaks volumes about their customer service! Seek out an owner’s group for that brand and contact some owners to see what they like and don’t like about their unit. Also search recall lists (available online), to see if that brand or model has any active recall notices, and finally visit a dealer who sells that unit and try to ask one of the service technicians (in addition to a salesperson), what they’ve learned about that model in their shop. The people who work on that brand a lot will be most familiar about the pros and cons of that model.

If you ask the manufacturer or dealer for recommendations, you’ll likely get a list of their most-happy customers; again not a true reflection of what you might learn doing your own due diligence. Searching the Internet using different key words about that brand and model will yield some interesting posts of consumer forums as well. Take it all in as you narrow your choices. There are many different parameters to investigate. Make it a fun adventure!

Avoid buying by price alone. Take into consideration service after the sale. Does the selling dealer have a fully equipped service facility? If you buy from an Internet seller only, they may not even have a service department. You'll definitely want dealer support after the sale! Even when purchasing a used unit. If you buy from a private party, however, I always recommend both seller and buyer invest equally in an aftermarket PDI (pre delivery inspection), performed by a certified RV technician.