Windshield Pops from Seal

I have a 2001, 35-foot Class A that has a two-piece windshield. I am having problems with the windshield coming out of the seal when I take it on a trip and the motorhome gets torqued a little. This has occurred three times. Are there any solutions to this problem, such as a different seal? Any suggestions? I’m going broke resealing the windshield! Jeff L., (Crawfordsville, IN)

Jeff, of all the instances I've seen with two-piece windshields popping the seal, they've all been attributed to a warped front cap. In other words, the fiberglass or plastic cap was originally installed in a stressed position. On paper, the windshield pieces would fit perfectly with the designed front cap, but somehow during production the cap gets torqued a bit or tightened down in a stressed position. The obvious weak point would be the two glass pieces that eventually become tweaked enough by the racking and twisting of the body and frame that one corner pops out of the seal. I'm not aware of any specific aftermarket seal that can eliminate this from happening. I have, however, seen some talented body shop technicians trim the cap opening or shim the front cap to eliminate the abnormal stress it is under after securing. This seemed to eliminate the glass from popping out of the seal more often than not. Careful measurements by an experienced body man can reveal if this is the cause in your case. Perhaps a little shaving of the cap in certain areas and shimming where necessary will eliminate the twist involved. It's definitely a situation that demands professional scrutiny and resolution. 

##RVT852

RV Window Leaks

I have a 2007 23-foot RV. I am told by a local storage/dealer that the manufacturer put the windows in wider than walls. They said they all need to be removed and resealed, but that it is not covered under warranty or extended warranty. Also they say the entire exterior needs to be resealed. If this is true, is that something an owner like myself can do? Also while my RV was stored in this lot someone attempted to break into it. You might want to warn people that any damage that happens to your RV on one of these lots (even with 24/7 security), is on your dime and your insurance. They cover nothing. Scott, (Sumner, WA)

Now that's a new one on me Scott; I've never heard of a manufacturer installing windows wider than the sidewalls. Are they implying the window is actually thicker that the width of the sidewall? I'm not ruling that possibility out, but it seems unlikely, if not impossible to do. Here's a diagram of how most RV windows are installed.



 Removing, sealing and reinstalling the windows will not make them any less deep. You can verify if indeed the windows need resealing by simply using a garden hose and see if any of them leak. If any water intrusion is evident, then he is correct; they need resealing. Water intrusion is one of the key maintenance areas that requires sincere diligence, so it's not to be taken lightly. Still, an adequately equipped RV handyperson should be able to remove, reseal and reinstall the windows. Be sure to remove all remnants of the old sealant. Most RV windows simply "sandwich" the sidewall between the outside window and an interior metal garnish trip piece. It will take two people, but it is doable. 

Here's a related question and how to remove RV windows for resealing.
 

Stained RV Window Sealing Gaskets

Is there anyway to clean the white rubber-like gaskets around the windows of my RV. They are stained from mildew or something. Thanks for any information you can give me. Mary Ann, (Houston, TX)

Mary Ann, depending on the actual material those window gasket seals are made from, I have a couple suggestions to try. First, Simple Green might work and it’s the most universally available product to try. If that doesn’t do the trick, I’ve had good success with Protect All Products. If the gaskets are truly rubber, I’d try their Rubber Roof Cleaner or their Black Streak Remover. Depending on the age of the gasket material and how long it’s been stained, it may take some elbow grease!

If the staining is mold or mildew, after cleaning, you can saturate a rag with bleach to carefully wipe down the gaskets to kill the mold.  

RV Sealants Prevent Water Leaks!

I sure wish I'd had the ability to attend more of your workshops. Do most RV manufacturers use butyl tape under the items they attach to the exterior of the RV? Is using multiple 1-inch strips under all of the area of the accessory necessary or can I just go around the edges of say a 4" X 4" item? Robert W. (somewhere in PA)

Robert, yes, it is the norm for manufacturers to apply a layer of butyl tape (otherwise known as putty tape), or some form of sealant/weather-proofing, between components and the exterior surfaces of the RV during installation. In fact, to prevent leaks, it’s a mandate. However, it's only necessary to apply the sealant, (personally, I use Eternabond DoubleStick tape), under all the screw locations or around the flanges. You don't need to place additional strips unless it creates a mounting or balance problem for that device. I've never seen that happen by the way. But just a layer under the flange perimeter of whatever the widget is; where the screws go through, should do the trick. Just be sure there are no voids or gaps between the accessory and the roof or sidewall. Notice how the window in the photo here needs new sealant! 

##RVT802

Leaky RV Window Can Cause Structural Damage

My husband and I own a 4-Winds Hurricane. When we first purchased it, pre-owned about five years ago, from an elderly neighborhood couple, we had not planned on it. It just kind of happened and we couldn't be happier. However, initially there was a little bubble in the fiberglass shell below the back bedroom windows. We were told that the windows were put in backwards and water had gotten in but the windows were corrected and no problems since. But over the last couple years, the bubbles have gotten bigger and where our pleated shade screws into the wall below the windows inside, they pulled loose. It is soft inside the holes and we fear we may have to replace the inside wall. What exactly is involved and what kind of money are we talking about? We love our RV and keep her immaculate. We want to keep her for many more years as she has given us such great memories. One especially...my mom died a couple years ago and I had the opportunity to take her camping and she loved it. She had never done anything like that in her life. So can it be fixed and can we save her? Angie L. (Trainer, PA)

Angie, it was so nice that you got to take your Mom RVing! You can forever know the joy you brought to her on that trip.

I'm a little confused about having the windows installed backwards; that's really not possible. Upside down, maybe, which would definitely result in a water leak. In any case, it is apparent moisture has invaded the interior walls. If indeed the window leaks have been stopped, it's possible only relatively minor repairs are required. But it will take an expert RV service technician to fully inspect and assess the resulting damage. Some of it may be hidden inside the wall. In minor cases, the delamination of the exterior surface will often cease once the leak is sealed. But if the interior paneling is weakened or rotted, the problem may be more severe. In most cases, the damage can be mitigated. How much it might cost is unknown until the inspection process is completed. I would definitely find a qualified service tech to fully inspect the damaged area. I do have an experienced, Master Certified RV Technician in your area I can refer you to; contact: 

Ron Donachie
Ron’s Mobile RV Services, Inc.
Serving Eastern Pennsylvania
484-225-8211
rondon@ptd.net

He'll come to your door and perform the necessary inspections and to assure all leaks have been eliminated.

Motorhome Windshield Sealant Sought

We have a 32' HR (Monaco) Ambassador. It has a two-piece windshield. The windshields leak at the top intersection of the windshield pieces. It is not a major leak but I would like to prevent any water from getting inside. Could you give me the name of a windshield sealant to address a slight leak in the front windshield of our motorhome? What about silicone? Mike & Joanne H.  

Silicone sealants are generally classified as acid-curing or moisture-curing. Acid-curing sealants are the most common as you’ll find them in the big box stores. However, these materials are considered somewhat low-performance. They're likely to not provide satisfactory results for the temperature extremes or weather that a typical motorhome may travel through. A better choice is a commercial-grade, moisture-curing silicone sealant, in a low to medium viscosity such as Dow 790. I’ve also had good luck with Permatex 81730 Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer in most cases. In some rare instances, it is a little too runny. It all depends on the curvatures of the windshield and just where the leak is entering. I’d probably try the Permatex first and then look for the Dow 790 if it doesn’t work.  

Cracked Up RV Window

My living room window was broken when our deck table fell through it during a storm. Do you have to take the whole window out to fix it? It was the bottom window portion that broke. Gail, (Sebring, FL)

Unfortunately Gail, in most cases, yes, the complete window assembly will have to be removed, then disassembled in order to replace the broken glass in that lower section. But, it certainly isn’t a huge deal to remove and reinstall the window, but it will take two or three people depending on the size of the window. 

Typically, the window sandwiches the wall between the outer frame and a piece of garnish trim around the perimeter, located inside the RV. In the photo, you can see the trim piece and the mounting screws. Begin by removing all the screws from around the garnish trim piece and place the trim aside. Next, carefully insert a wide blade putty knife under the exterior flange of the window to break the seal of the existing sealant. Have someone support the window from the outside as you gently push from the inside. At this point, all that is holding the window in place is the sealant around the perimeter of the exterior. Work the wide putty knife around the frame as you carefully push the window out of the opening through the sidewall.

Once removed, clean off all the remnants of butyl caulk or sealant from around the window flange and what may be left around the opening in the sidewall. Always use fresh new sealant when reinstalling the window. Once the window is out and cleaned off, it can be disassembled.

Depending on the brand of the window, somewhere around the perimeter of the frame, you should find a joining strip where the two ends of the formed frame come together. It is probably secured with rivets or screws. Either way, it will have to be taken apart in order to remove the rest of the broken glass. Or better yet, take the entire window assembly, in one piece, to the glass shop and have them do the disassembling and reassembling of the window itself. They’ll be able to seal the window properly within its frame also. You’ll only have to seal against leaks as you reinstall the window back into the RV. I recommend Eternabond double-stick tape when reinstalling the window into the motorhome. The Eternabond tape will help hold the window in place as you reinstall it, as well as seal it, but you should still have someone helping as you put it back in place.

From the outside, be sure there are no gaps anywhere around the perimeter of the window after all the screws through the garnish have been reinstalled. It may be necessary to install new screws, one size larger, if any appear to strip as you tighten them. Next, inspect the entire outside perimeter of the window. If any gaps exist between the window and the sidewall, water will have an entrance; and that is the biggest threat to guard against. In some cases, a double layer of sealing tape is required to ensure no gaps remain. If necessary, use a thin bead of silicone sealant along the top edge of the window just to be sure. 

The bottom line is that you, most assuredly, do not want any water intrusion. It is also recommended to install new vinyl-backed foam tape on the inside flange of the garnish trim. It should also fully compress when you tighten the mounting screws, thereby effectuating a tight vapor seal. And that should do it! Keep in mind, if this appears too daunting for you, any number of local RV shops would be more than happy to perform the removal and reinstallation of the window for you.

rvt737

Pimpled RV Interior Paneling

Our motor home is 2 years old and we have discovered what is best described as small pimples on the interior wallboard under the passenger window. I'm guessing there is about 100 of them that are 1/16" wide. Suspecting this is a water leak I removed the interior window trim and sprayed water on the roof and window looking for a leak and found nothing. What could this be? Thomas (Lodi, OH)

Thomas, you are probably correct; such marks are typically caused by moisture reacting with the glue on the wall panels. As a starting point, removing the window trim was the right course of action. If you are sure there is no source of water entry at the window or the roof above the window then the water is likely entering somewhere else and eventually seeping towards the window, where it finds its way to the inside of the coach. A good place to start a detailed inspection would be exterior moldings or trim pieces mounted close to the window. Inspect them very carefully for open seals, rusted mounting screws, etc. Also inspect the entry door seals and any other fitment attached to the sidewall that is at the same level, or likely higher, than the window. Remember, water seeks its own level, so the leak could literally be anywhere above the window. Excessive moisture can migrate laterally to a lower location before it is actually manifests itself. Water leaks can be extremely difficult to find and need to be caught early to avoid an expensive repair. Search meticulously and thoroughly and you should find it. RV repair facilities can be a last resort if you simply cannot locate the entry point of the moisture. Some will be equipped with ultrasonic devices that can locate water leaks in a relatively short time. If all else fails, take it to a pro shop. Be sure to use a sealant that is applicable to the material(s) you'll be applying it to once you located the source.

Window Removal

How do you remove the RV windows so they can be re-sealed on a Southwind Class A motorhome. The coach is 27-feet long.
Dave, (Mobile, AL)

Dave, from inside the RV, remove all the screws around the inner frame – also called the trim garnish (see photo). The window is not really screwed to the wall of the RV. The sidewall is actually "sandwiched" between the outside window flange and the inside garnish trim. Take care when removing these Philips-head screws. Avoid using an electric or pneumatic screwgun since it is easy to strip the head.

After the inside aluminum trim is removed, carefully apply outward pressure to the edges of the window frame while a partner holds onto the window from outside and slides a flat putty knife along and under the exterior flange. Eventually the window will push all the way out. Be sure to remove absolutely all the old sealant and clean both the outside of the rough opening in the sidewall as well as the back side of the flange around the window. Use a good quality butyl caulk or putty tape (I recommend Eternabond tape), and apply more than enough to the flange so when the window is reinstalled it will squeeze out around the entire perimeter of the frame.

Insert the window into the opening and be sure to "center" the window vertically and horizontally; use shims to raise the assembly if necessary. Tighten the screws through the inside trim in a cross pattern much like you would tighten a wheel assembly. Avoid gaps in the sealant that would permit water entry. Next, carefully trim away the excess and apply a very thin bead of clear silicone across the top and around the upper radiused corners of the window. Smooth out this bead of silicone by wetting your finger and carefully sliding it over the sealant. Avoid rain or washing the coach for 24-hours.

Cabover Window Leak

I have a 26-foot motorhome in excellent condition except we had a leak in an upper window of cabover that rotted wood in the front and lower section of cabover. Local dealers tell me the cost to repair it is in excess of value of unit and haven't even quoted a repair cost. They only show me their new models. Is this worth repairing? Do I have to depend on dealers who will try to sell me another unit rather than help me fix mine? Is this type of repair more difficult?
Christi, (Litchfield, OH)

Christi, unfortunately, such damage in the cabover section can be quite costly. However, for a dealer to not even quote a repair estimate while trying to steer you to a new vehicle is disingenuous at best. All reputable repair facilities will provide an estimated cost of repair and explain the pro and cons of such a repair. A thorough inspection is required in order to fully evaluate the feasibility of a repair. And keep in mind, not every RV service facility is able to perform this type of repair. I’ve sent you the name of a facility near you; let me know how it works out.

Weepy Window

I have a 1997 motorhome which has recently developed a leak in a sliding window. I have sprayed water on it from the outside to try to determine where it was leaking and it looks as if the water is coming from under the window trim. The water then flows over the wall onto the seat cushions. All of the weep holes are open and appear to be working fine so I think that the butyl has dried up and is now leaking. My question is how hard is this to fix? It would seem all I need do is remove the trim from the inside and then push out the window. I'm not familiar with all of the elements of the window, like where the butyl tape is located and what is that material around the window; is it to seal or just for aesthetics? Any guidance would be very much appreciated.
Betty, (Milwaukee, WI)

Betty, window leaks can indeed be exasperating. Many service shops have a tendency to simply apply sealant to the top and side edges of the window, but to do the job correctly the window should be removed completely and new butyl applied. This is my preference and recommendation, but you’ll need two people to accomplish this task. Here’s how to do it; 

First, remove the garnish trim ring inside the RV and then carefully push a wide blade putty knife under the exterior flange to break the seal of the existing sealant. Have another person hold onto the window even though it’s unlikely it will simply fall out. After you cut through all the sealant around the entire perimeter, slowly push the window out from the interior while the helper keeps cutting through the sealant with the putty knife. Be sure the window stays flat while pushing it out. Don’t allow it to flex too much as this may crack the glass. 

Once the window is free from the sidewall, lay it on a flat surface and remove all remnants of the existing sealant. This is important; all the old sealant must be removed from the flange and the sidewall. Once cleaned, install new sealant to the inside of the exterior flange (Eternabond tape works great in this instance). Apply a vinyl-backed thermal barrier to the inside of the interior garnish trim. Then center the window into position. It may be necessary to shim the window in the cutout in the sidewall. 

You’ll want an even gap all around. I usually use a tapered shim (no longer than ¾ the thickness of the wall) to easily “lift” the window to the correct placement. Again, your helper is holding the window in place during this installation. Once centered in the opening, install the inside trim ring. Be sure to reinstall all the screws. If any screw appears stripped or will not tighten properly, replace it with a larger screw. This is what actually “sandwiches” the wall between the inside and outside flanges. 

The exterior sealant should fully compress all around the perimeter. If any gaps are evident it will be necessary to remove the window and apply extra sealant in those areas. Remember, not all sidewalls are completely flat. Some aluminum patterns have many dips and valleys. Likewise the vinyl-backed foam tape on the inside trim should also fully compress thereby effectuating a tight vapor seal. Carefully use a utility knife to trim the excess sealant that has squeezed out from the flange. Some shops may apply a thin bead of clear silicone sealant on top of the window frame, but if the installation is performed correctly, this is usually not necessary.