RV Armor or Liquid Rubber?

I recently read an article about repairing and re-coating rubber RV roofs. In it was a product by RV Roof Armor and that they come and apply, but I imagine it's pretty pricey, right? At the bottom of the article I read there were three contributors to the article. Specifically I'm interested in Liquid Rubber manufactured by Pro Guard Coatings. Do you have any information about them or any comments about their product? Roger A.

Roger, in the past, I have used a Pro Guard product similar to the Liquid Rubber you mention and it was indeed, satisfactory. Though a great product, I believe spot sealants and coatings are not truly comparable with a roofing "system" such as the RV Armor roof. It's apples to oranges. The only RV roof I recommend is RV Armor. You can’t beat the lifetime warranty and the cost-savings over time. If you factor in the typical and annual maintenance costs, let alone the hassle of having to take the RV to a service facility, it’s an easy decision for committed RV owners to make.

I would suggest you give RV Armor a call and allow them to provide you with an estimate to, once and forever, relieve you of all concerns regarding your roof. As they state in their video, you’ll never have to get up on that roof again.

After seeing RV Armor in person, and getting to know the company and the product, I consider all other RV roof maintenance products just about unnecessary, and simply not worth the time and expense it takes each and every season.

No RV Leveling System - What now?

Gary, I just purchased a 32-foot RV, my first RV. Unfortunately, it does not have any type of leveling system. Leveling must be done manually. How do you do this? I know it’s done with blocks, but that’s all I know? How do you know when it's level? Bob D., (Bloomsburg, PA)

Great question Bob! Some RVers might be shocked to know that not every coach comes equipped with automatic levelers, in-motion satellite reception, a dozen televisions and two bathrooms! Some coaches are equipped with just the basic accouterments; plumbing, electrical systems and propane appliances. Everything necessary to fully enjoy the RVing lifestyle, just not as "fancy" as some. In fact, prior to the genesis of leveling "systems," every RVer had to manually level the RV. Obviously for general comfort, for doors and cabinets to swing and close properly, but most importantly, for the absorption refrigerator to function correctly. Anyone still have their little round bubble level?

The process is to run the tires on the low side of the coach up on ramped blocks. Many are homemade from wood but alternate materials like plastic are also available in the RV aftermarket. The key thing to remember about leveling blocks is that it is vital to support the complete footprint of every tire that is raised. 

So it kinda involves guessing just how much to raise the low side or corner. Run the tires up on a block, check the level of the refrigerator evaporator or freezer shelf, add or subtract boards or blocks to get the unit level from side to side and front to back. 

On a towable RV, the front to rear adjustment is easy enough to manipulate with the tongue jack or landing jacks, but it's trial and error. And with a motorhome, there are any of four "corners" that might need to be raised to get the rig properly leveled. It is definitely trial and error at best. Now the good news!

I'm in the process of testing a new product called the ReVo Leveler. This little box attaches to the side of the RV and, with its own battery power, tells you exactly how much to raise the RV to obtain perfect level. This is one of those inventions that make you ponder, "After all these years, where has this been?"

The ReVo Leveler makes four crucial determinations. 1) How far to lift the tongue jack or hitch to disconnect the RV from the tow vehicle, 2) How far to raise the front of the unit to obtain front-to-rear level, 3) How far to lift the low side of the rig to get it level from side to side, and 4) To obtain the exact height needed to raise the front to reconnect the tow vehicle. 

Displayed in inches, you'll now know exactly how many boards or blocks to use. Best applied with a towable RV, conventional travel trailer or 5th wheel, I can see where the ReVo Leveler would be beneficial to motorhome owners as well. Level is level is level! And all RVs need to operate within a level orientation.

The ReVo Leveler kit includes a handy 12-volt adapter for its rechargeable battery which is said to hold its charge for up to 30 hours (the digital display indicates the amount of charge remaining). Mounting clips, labels and very detailed instructions are also included in the kit. It even comes in its own protective pouch! Nice touch! 

As testing and product evaluation concludes in a real-world environment, I'll report back with a final verdict on its usefulness. My initial reaction, however, is quite positive. The construction, design and functionality is very thought-out and well engineered.

For an immediate look at the ReVo Leveler, visit http://www.revoleveler.com. Inventor, Larry Karan has also posted several videos on YouTube which explain each function. 

So Bob, I'd suggest you take a serious look at the ReVo Leveler. It is available online, at select dealers and at RV shows.
 




 

Where To Connect Fresh Water Filter/Purifier

I am new to the RV world and have a question. Should our water filter go between the faucet and the hose, or between the hose and the RV? Or, does it not matter? Thanks, Debi (no city/state)

Welcome to the world of RVs Debi! Believe it or not, this question comes up more often than you'd think. From a water flow perspective, it really doesn't matter. But I subscribe to the thought that it’s best to place an in-line filter or purifier as close to the water source as possible, typically right at the campground spigot. That way you are protecting the hose itself, as well as the fresh water demand system in the RV. Oftentimes it’s near impossible to drain all the water from the hose, and over time, contaminates could gather in a stored hose and then be forced directly into the system the next time you hook up. 

Additionally, it’s wise to connect both ends of the coiled hose together prior to storing it in the rig. And it's always beneficial to carry an adjustable city water pressure regulator as you travel too. 


##rvt748

Product Spotlight: H2Out Dehumidifiers

Dear RV Doctor, I am new to owning and living in an RV so I am not familiar with propane heat. I have read that propane heat also puts out moisture. What is the best way, easiest and most economical, to handle moisture and condensation in an RV? Thanks! Jacki

Hey Doc, I have a 25-foot RV with a new 13,500 btu air conditioning unit. The problem is at night time the humidity level is high, over 80%, with the temperature around 70-degrees. What should I do? Dustin
 

Well Jacki and Dustin, it's true any gas-fired burner emits moisture (propane, natural gas, etc.), as well as rooftop air conditioners. And indeed moisture can be problematic in and around any RV. There are a multitude of desiccants commercially available that can help reduce moisture accumulation and I've experimented with many over the years since pervasive moisture/condensation have been a never-ending battle for RVers in most climates. 

I recently completed a test of a renewable dehumidifier that uses no electricity and does not require messing dumping of the water it collected. It's called H2Out. The nice thing is that it is available in varying sizes/capacities making it the perfect companion for RV travelers. And since there is no water collecting there's no fear of spillage as you travel up and down hills in the RV. And the best part; it works!

The H2Out is comprised of silica gel modules as opposed to solid silica clay particles. Silica gel can absorb up to one third its own weight. And each H2Out dehumidifier contains thousands of gel beads encased in a stainless steel canister that is easily stored, used and renewed. Renewed properly periodically, each canister will likely last the life of your RV.

The gel beads are normally blue in color and turn to pink as they absorb the moisture in the air. Depending on the size of the canister, they should easily last 30-60 days before needing renewing. At least that's what their literature stated. I ran my tests for a full 90 days just to see what would happen. 

For my review of the SD309, I first ran a three-month test of an unheated space, unprotected by a dehumidifier. I measured the humidity and temperature extremes during this benchmark test. I then placed the H2Out in the same space for another 90 days and measured both extremes again.

Here are the overall results:

Without Dehumidification                                     With the H2Out in Place
Temperature Extremes: 68 - 79-degrees                Temperature Extremes: 54 - 81-degrees
Humidity Extremes: 31 - 43%                                  Humidity Extremes: 24 - 69%

The test was performed in Seattle, WA where the moisture content can vary drastically over the course of the year. Clearly the H2Out obtained the lowest humidity measurement. The benchmark test was performed from late spring to early summer (May - July). The time period for the H2Out test ran from July to September.

The beads began turning slightly pink within a week, which is normal since the moisture is absorbed from the outside to the inside. After 90 days, it was clear it was time to recharge the canister. I'm convinced I would have gotten better results had I recharged the H2Out at the recommended 60-day mark. 

The renewing process is quite simple if you have an electric oven, (uh...don't place the stainless steel canister in a microwave!). It was a little more detailed with my gas cooktop. Do read the recharging instructions carefully! My test canister is now back in my controlled space to see how it performs during a 60-day run of a NW winter.

I am convinced the H2Out is quite worthy of its stout price since it will literally last for years with proper renewing. At the suggestion of Marilyn at Ken Murphy Associates, I plan to place an SD106 in my refrigerator. Though it's probably harder to quantify since I'll not record measurements, I'm informed it works wonderfully inside the food compartment of any absorption refrigerator.

I'd recommend readers visit the H2Out website and read through the informative pages. Though more costly than other, higher maintenance dehumidifiers, I feel serious RVers need to at least check it out.

An RV Roof Guaranteed Forever!

Hey Doc, I read an article some time back that talked about a new liquid re-roofing product  coming onto the market. One advantage of a liquid, is that it may get into all the "nooks & crannies." Any info you can share on this? What is your preference for complete roof protection or re-roofing? I have been reading your articles for many years; they are very informative AND helpful! Thanks! Dr. Bill G. 

Dr. Bill, for 40-plus years I’ve investigated many roofing types, coatings, cleaners, preservatives, sealants and other aftermarket products covering the gamut for both RVs and mobile homes. I’ve tested and evaluated many of these products over the years hoping to find that “silver bullet” product that solves many of today’s RV roofing issues. With the roof of the RV constantly being bombarded by airborne contaminates, the never-ending extremes of the weather, ozone, UV attacks from the sun, etc., it’s been an interesting search indeed. That, coupled with the fact that the RV roof is under constant tension and release via the racking and twisting of the structure as the coach moves down the road, it’s no wonder RV roofing leaks develop so easily. It is suggested by many experts that the Number One cause of RV damage is water intrusion and the RV roof is the first line of defense against that. It’s likely the most vital component on any RV. I do recommend Eternabond tape for repairs, component installations and seam protection, but if you're considering the complete roof as a whole, read on.

Last year I became aware of a service and process called RV Roof Armor. It’s a two-day installation process whereby the complete RV roof is sealed and protected against leaks forever! It comes with a lifetime warranty that stays with the coach. I’ve personally witnessed a complete installation and I’m now convinced this is the only way for serious RVers to go. Their literature states you’ll never have to go up on the roof again and I firmly believe that. The roof becomes totally locked in from gutter to gutter. And the best thing is that they come to you! No matter where you live (at least in the US), they’ll send their trained expert installer to prepare the coach and apply the surface material; it takes two days per coach. I do have to comment that you’ll not find the attention to detail for preserving a leak-proof roof more so than from their trained staff. I was actually blown away by the completeness of the process. Not bound by time constraints as you’d find in a typical RV service shop, these guys do it right the first time since its on their dime if they have to go back a second time. How many service companies offer a full lifetime warranty on their parts and labor? For a roofing product especially! I can’t remember ever seeing that before!

Check them out here.

I’d encourage you to bore down deep in their website. Convince yourself this type of service is for you. But I know I’ve found my “silver bullet" when it comes to full roof protection.

Product Spotlight: The Ultimate RV Sewer Vent Cap Assembly

So I recently received an email to the RV Doctor Website that rang of a familiar recurring theme; holding tank odors permeating the interior of the RV. I receive similar emails every season, year in, year out, without fail. RV holding tank odors have been with us since the dawning of the modern age of RVing. Dumping holding tanks, dealing with marine-type toilets and trying to avoid nasty waste plumbing odors from both the liquid waste (gray) system and the solid body waste (black) system, have plagued RVers for far too long.

 

Enter a relatively new device (ten years in the perfecting), called the 360 Siphon, as produced by 360 Products, Inc. The 360 Siphon is scientifically designed to take advantage of the normal occurrences of air flow over the recreation vehicle, effectively extracting fumes and sewer gases and the subsequent odors, rather than finding a way to "hide" or masquerade those displeasing odors that naturally occur. 

The Laws of Physics are irrefutable so it makes sense to use those natural phenomena to solve the problem, rather than be forced to mask RV holding tank odors, usually with another distracting, obnoxious odorant. But before I get too far ahead of myself, perhaps you or someone you know has had the experience that Barb recently went through:

Dear RV Doc, we recently inherited my in-laws' 20-foot 5th wheel. Everything's great except for the holding tank. When we travel it releases a horrible smell. We keep the bathroom ceiling vent closed and the toilet lid closed with some water in the bowl, but the smell continues to escape. Once we have parked and the tank becomes more full, the smell lessens somewhat. I know that my in-laws did a lot of rough camping where they didn't use a dump station. We're wondering how do we get rid of it? Barb, (Victoria, BC)

Here's my response to Barb: 

Barb, I wish I had a nickel for every email I receive that concerns RV sewer odors inside the RV, whether moving or stationary! All holding tanks on RVs are susceptible to the proliferation of odors, even though it’s the solid waste (black) holding tank that gets most of the attention. The combination of human waste, moisture and in most cases, the use of a holding tank additive, results in a captive, living, biological playground environment of sorts, (which we just happen to carry around with us), that is continually active and thriving. The best additives, by the way, actually contain live bacteria that react with the moisture to help breakdown the solid components to make dumping and flushing easier; so that's a good thing!

The secondary aspect of biodegradable additives like Pure Power Blue (my recommended treatment), is odor control. By attacking and digesting the actual odor-causing molecules at their source, odors are controlled and in some instances, eliminated altogether. The not-so-good additives simply mask the odors with an odor all its own. This entire process, unfortunately, will always create objectionable odors; it’s a natural happenstance with RV waste containment. It's also one of my RV Facts of Life. The key is to get rid of these odors as quickly as possible.

Venting is the primary method of allowing odors to exit the confines of any holding tank. All holding tanks are vented through the roof of the RV. In most cases, each tank will have a separate vent stack that runs from the top of the tank, up and through the roof. Driving down the road (movement) and peculiar air flow movements over the top of a parked RV (stationary) can and will create a positive atmospheric pressure inside the holding tanks. It’s this positive pressure inside the tanks that force fumes, odors and other airborne contaminants into the living sections of the RV. 

Unfortunately, it’s all too common. Flawed vent designs, improper water locks inside P-traps, fouled toilet gaskets, faulty anti-siphon trap vent devices, sloppy workmanship and improper roof sealants, all contribute to an easy entry for holding tank odors to permeate the living portions of an RV. The integral vent stack is literally taken out of the equation since the odors have found an easier path rather than traveling all the way up the stack and through the roof, especially if it has to fight against the downward movement of air coming into the tank. And as I state in my seminars, you, unfortunately, then get to inhale the results.

Surprisingly, there is no requirement for coach builders to install a vent cap on the roof and those that do, often install an inexpensive cap that can actually exacerbate the problem. Typical vent caps are designed primarily to keep leaves, dust, dirt and critters from entering the holding tank vent pipe. They do little, if anything, to help rid the odors from the waste system. None are designed to specifically aid in creating a negative atmospheric tank pressure. None, except a new type of non-moving vent assembly called the 360 Siphon. 

This unique roof vent automatically decreases the atmospheric pressure inside the holding tank and literally draws vapors and subsequent odors out of the tank through the vent pipe. The faster the air passing over the vent opening, the quicker odors are drawn out of the holding tank. The big plus is that it contains no moving parts and is easy to install. Any RV handyperson can install the vent (or replace existing vents), in a matter of minutes. If it sounds like I’m a big fan of this device, it’s because I am! It truly works! It’s one of those products that come along every few years that truly solves an obnoxious problem common to virtually every RV.
 

In a perfect world, all RVs would be outfitted with the proper equipment to be able to manage and alleviate all the displeasing aspects of RV waste management. The products and processes certainly exist, but unfortunately not every coach manufacturer takes advantage of them. Thankfully, as RV owners, we have alternatives that allows us to realize the best of all practices.

I have spent an enormous amount of time over the past few months looking seriously at the issue of RV waste management and have written extensively about processes and products I have tested that have proven quite effective at minimizing RV owner dissatisfaction. To read my complete RV Waste Management article, click this link. 

The beauty of the 360 Siphon vent is that every little aspect of the design is scientifically influenced. Every bump, indentation and feature of the sturdy poly-carbonite vent has been engineered for a specific purpose; to take advantage of airflow dynamics and to create a negative pressure inside each holding tank. This is not just a simple, inexpensive ABS plastic molded device to keep leaves and critters out of the vent pipe!

Though other rotating, air-catching, mechanical sewer vent devices have proven effective in the past, (I've personally tested two such products), the design of the 360 Siphon exceeds the successes of those with moving components. With no mechanical parts whatsoever, the 360 Siphon is guaranteed to extract sewer odors and literally draw fumes up and out of the tank. This updraft, governed by the Laws of Physics, totally eliminates the possibility of odors coming into the living areas of the RV. 

I think an earlier paragraph bears repeating here: "In a perfect world, all RVs would be outfitted with the proper equipment to be able to manage and alleviate all the displeasing aspects of RV waste management. The products and processes certainly exist, but unfortunately not every coach manufacturer takes advantage of them. Thankfully, as RV owners, we have alternatives that allows us to realize the best of all practices."

To order your own 360 Siphon vent assemblies, contact Drainmaster.com.

Click the video box to see a short video that shows how the 360 Siphon actually works!

Remember, RVing is more than a hobby, it's a lifestyle!

Product Spotlight: OP Products - Pure Power Blue

The trials and tribulations of RV waste management and odor control have long been a topic of interest here on the RV Doctor Website. And typically I try to leave you with a workable solution, rather than just highlight the problem and walk away. 

For many years I've extolled the benefits of RM Tank Care, one of the very first enzyme-based, bacteria-infused waste digesters to enter the RV marketplace. And one that truly worked! But alas, some good things are bound to come to an end. And so it is with RM Tank Care. The parent company recently removed RV Tank Care from the market in order to focus on their other products. So the search was on for a replacement product to help RVers everywhere deal with odor control and the breakup of solid, black holding tank waste.

As readers of the RV Doctor Column and website are aware, there are now many such products out there regarding odor control and confusion abounds about how effective they may or may not be. So recently, the good folks at Drainmaster, introduced me to another product, Pure Power Blue, as produced by OP Products. My initial research encouraged me to dig a little deeper. 

As part of my due diligence, I typically rely on a close cadre of individuals including RV educators, authors, Master Certified RV service technicians, engineers and others to help direct my personal recommendations. For this product evaluation I called on one of my FOGs (Friends of Gary), author and RV service technician, Chris Dougherty to help with some experimentation.

Since the “Go Green” movement permeated the RV Industry, it's been proven that the use of certain chemicals, including formaldehyde, a common preservative found in RV toilet chemicals, is hazardous to the environment, humans and pets. Just about every company that manufactures these additives now produces a green alternative. OP Products may be the exception since they've only produced "green" additives, avoiding any use of chemicals, from day one. Perfecting upon their development of Pure Power Green, they are now offering what they consider to be the most powerful, easiest to use and most economical RV holding tank additive yet developed, Pure Power Blue, Waste Digester and Odor Eliminator. Pure Power Blue is four times as concentrated as any near competition.

Featuring their proprietary “BioBlast Plus” technology, this new product uses bacteria and enzymes to break down waste naturally and safely. The company states that their biodegradable product will “control odor immediately, even in high heat conditions over 120°F.” In addition, the bacteria and enzymes in their product enhance the sewage and septic systems to which they’re introduced.

Pure Power Blue is available as a liquid in sizes ranging from 4 to 128 ounces. It is also available in convenient, dissolving, single-use pouches, in 6 or 12-pouch packages. The company states that a mere 2 ounces or 1 bio-pouch will treat a 40-gallon tank (an additional dose is recommended for temperatures above 105°F). 

When it comes to a bacteria-based holding tank treatment solution, a normal question might be: is it safe? According to OP Products, “The bacteria used in [their] products are non-pathogenic, friendly Bacillus bacteria. These types of bacteria are cultivated from natural sources, therefore they are perfectly safe to use in any cleaning or maintenance situation.” 

The Pure Power Blue liquid is a lighter color than some of the traditional products and has a pleasant smell when opened. Simply add 2 ounces of Pure Power Blue to a gallon of water and that’s it. The same for the bio-pouch; one gallon or just enough water to cover the bottom of the tank.

One claim the company makes is that it will break down any 2-ply household toilet tissue, meaning there's no need to use RV-specific, quick-dissolve paper, which of course, is more expensive than store brands. So Chris set out to test that claim. Here's his report: 

The Experiment: I used two clean glass jars, one with plain tap water and the other with a tap water/Pure Power Blue mixture (about ½ ounce of additive in the jar of water). I then added four sheets of store brand, (generic), 2-ply toilet tissue to each jar.  

The Results: In a one hour test, the toilet paper in the plain tap water remained as it was when I inserted it. When stirred, it held together perfectly, without deforming or separating at all. However, in the Pure Power Blue solution, the paper had dissolved almost completely, and upon stirring, was nicely broken down and completely shredded. Clearly, complete dissolving would have occurred within a short time, perhaps another hour or two, but even at this point in time, flushing of holding tanks would have been easy and complete.

In a practical use test over three days in July, I found quite remarkable results. I added a single bio-pouch to the black water tank with a few gallons of water. The system was used by two people during that time and outside temperatures were around 80°F. Upon dumping the tanks, the black tank, which is always dumped and rinsed first, did so with little or no evidence of solids. Nor was there any odor that would normally accompany this process; it was absolutely absent. Upon dumping the grey water from the kitchen, however, where no additive was used, a perceptible odor was noticed. In my many years of RVing experience, this was the first time this phenomenon occurred. It will be interesting to see if this scenario holds up with longer use and more people are using the RV.

There are a couple of things to ponder about most typical bio-agents used for RV odor control. First, if you’ve recently used a formaldehyde-based product, you'll typically need to flush the tanks numerous times to help eliminate the residual formaldehyde which may kill the bacteria. Also, doubled dosages are required during the first few uses until all the old chemical is completely removed. Second, there are some products, like toilet cleansers, sanitizers, sanitizing hand soap, etc., that should not be used in conjunction with typical tank additives. Basically, anything that kills bacteria will render most products inert. Not so with Pure Power Blue. Because of its highly concentrated formula, such cleaning agents will not destroy the live bacteria. Remember, it's four times as potent as any other product on the market!

Test Conclusion: Pure Power Blue Waste Digester and Odor Eliminator is a great addition to the RVing lifestyle, making holding tank duties easier and more pleasant, plus it's good for the environment and RV park septic systems as well. A win-win for everyone. And remember, RVing is more than a hobby, it is a lifestyle! 

UPDATE! The RV Doc replicated the above-mentioned test sequence on video. Click here to watch the video.

Product Spotlight: Xantrex Truecharge2 Battery Charger

By Gary Bunzer

One of the most popular seminars that I present at RV shows, conventions and rallies is entitled, “Optimizing the 12-volt Battery System.” It’s been a topic that undergoes frequent updating as new technology comes to the fore or as new problems arise within the DC systems found on today’s recreation vehicles. Clearly 80-90% of the questions sent to the RV Doctor Column are electrical in nature, so it’s no surprise one of the biggest challenges facing RVers today is maintaining a healthy battery system; what I call, battery optimization.

In my “Optimizing….” Seminar, I advocate having the ability to carry as much current-carrying capacity that space permits and that your wallet can endure. One can never have too much battery current on hand to power the DC components found in the modern RV. And there are many! Typically, all lamps, fans, slideouts, water pump, leveling jacks and electronic ignition appliances, among other devices, rely heavily on a hefty 12-volt battery system in order to operate at their optimum. A healthy battery system is a mandate in most applications, so having as many batteries as possible should be a good thing, right? 

What some RVers often forget, is that adding more batteries to become more self-sufficient (especially when dry camping), is only half of the equation. Yeah, it’s great to be able to have lots of amps at your beck and call, but it’s just as important, if not more so, to be able to properly replenish that battery bank in order to take advantage of having those extra amps available. And that’s the rub.

Along with simply adding batteries to the bank, one must also consider how to be able to fully charge that larger depository without risking damage to the batteries. The more current you store, the more important it becomes having the proper charging methodology on hand to safely charge any battery bank. One way is to replace the stock engine alternator with one of a higher output capability to help charge the house batteries while driving down the road. The other is to ensure the inverter or converter is sized appropriately and designed properly to fully charge the battery system without an inherent danger of overcharging when connected to shore power.

But the typical converter/charger installed by the coach manufacturer will not likely be able to properly charge the complete system in a timely fashion. Because of the proliferation of 12-volt DC accoutrements, many converter/chargers are undersized for the task as they leave the factory, even before adding additional batteries to the equation. And that’s when I start seeing an increase in emails to the RV Doctor Column. Dear Gary, my furnace will not ignite but the fan comes on; my generator will crank, but not start; my slideout moves very slowly and stops before retracting all the way; my water pressure is too low at the lavatory faucets; my hydraulic jacks will not level the coach. These and a few hundred other symptoms can be caused by a faulty battery system; specifically, low voltage at the batteries.

Many converter/chargers installed in some RVs seemingly are designed to never overcharge the batteries since that condition leads to a plethora of issues. That’s the good news. The bad news is that many of these same converter/chargers are not designed to be able to fully charge the batteries either; at least in a timely manner and some are simply not capable of fully charging a large battery bank efficiently at all. Some even have the predilection to overcharge the batteries.

That said, most modern RV converter/chargers are typically great converters, simply poor battery chargers. Their main job is to convert 120-volt AC electricity into 12-volt DC electricity since most every convenience on a contemporary coach is powered or controlled by DC. And most do that gallantly depending on the type of converter. Their shortfall is clearly with the battery charging capability. It’s my opinion the committed RVer truly requires a dedicated battery charger; one designed with the health of the batteries in mind.

Since no two RV battery systems are identical; varying loads, different types and number of batteries, length of conductors, etc., how can one be sure the batteries will be charged completely and effectively in the shortest amount of time? As I’ve often stated in my seminars, thank goodness for the aftermarket! Read on.

The term “smart charger” has been around for a few years now, but what does that really mean? Do they embody some type of intelligence? Well, in a manner of speaking they do. A true smart charger is controlled by an internal microprocessor, it has multiple stages of charging procedures, it can operate under varying AC input voltages, it employs temperature compensation and has safeguards against overcharging as an inherent characteristic. All this and more can be found in the serious RVer’s newest best friend, the Xantrex Truecharge2 battery charger.

The Truecharge2 is the newest version in the Truecharge line. Available in 20, 40 and 60-amp outputs, the Truecharge2 just might be the answer to quite of few of those RV Doc questions. In fact, I know that to be true in many cases. Not only is the Truecharge2 processor-controlled and features either two or three-stage charging, it also contains battery charging algorhythms (customized charging procedures) for multiple battery types. Here’s the key difference between a mediocre charging/converter and a thoughtfully designed smart charger; the typical charging/converter has only one type of charging sequence (based on voltage and current flow), regardless of the “type” of battery it is charging. And please realize not all 12-volt batteries are created equal.

I won’t bore you with all the specifications regarding the various types, (you’ll have to attend my seminar for that much detail), but suffice it to say there are many different types of batteries designed with different technologies and chemical make-up found in recreation vehicles:

·       Flooded, wet cell (lead-acid) batteries

·       AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries

·       GEL batteries

·       RV/Marine batteries (considered a hybrid type)

·       Automotive cranking batteries

·       True deep cycle industrial/commercial batteries

·       Sealed, maintenance-free batteries (lead-calcium)

In order to become optimized, the different types of batteries require varying levels of voltage and amperage delivered over specific time frames. In other words, a one-size-fits-all battery charger will result in a less-than-optimized DC power source. Thankfully, the Truecharge2 battery charger allows the user to choose the type of battery bank being charged. It is compatible with flooded, GEL, AGM and lead-calcium batteries. (There is also a “custom setting” for specially designed algorhythms programmed by Xantrex for specific applications).

This assures the optimum amount of current, pushed by the correct amount of voltage over the proper amount of time (based on that battery’s current state of charge and temperature), is delivered to that bank. Bingo! Battery optimization! The charging sequence is designed specifically for that battery type. The fear of over-charging the battery bank is eliminated altogether.

Another key to proper battery optimization is multi-stage charging. The three charging stages produced by the Truecharge2 are:

·       Bulk stage

·       Absorption stage

·       Float stage

A fourth available process, Equalization, is applicable to liquid-filled batteries only (flooded lead-acid and lead-calcium). Another nice function of the Truecharge2 is the ability of the user to choose between three-stage charging and two-stage charging (eliminating the Float stage).

During the Bulk stage, the charger delivers its maximum current output in a constant fashion; full amps flowing into the battery bank. All batteries store current, measured in amps. Once the battery voltage reaches a pre-set point (remember, it’s a different requirement for each of the battery types), it switches to the Absorption stage.

In the Absorption stage, the Truecharge2 holds the voltage steady at a set rate as the current flow lessens. Once the battery reaches its gassing threshold, (again, a different voltage level for each type of battery), the charger switches to the Float stage.

During the Float stage, the Truecharge2 delivers a lesser amount of voltage to maintain the battery bank in a charged condition until the bank voltage drops below 12.5 volts for about fifteen minutes. Then it awakens and enters the Bulk stage and the process continues.

I’m often asked if it’s permissible to leave the RV plugged into shore power during lengthy periods of non-use. I usually warn against such a practice primarily because it’s likely the battery bank will be over-charged by a typically mediocre converter/charger at some point and literally boil the electrolyte out of the batteries. Over-charging a flooded, wet cell battery (lead-acid and lead-calcium) produces dangerous gasses containing hydrogen and oxygen. I’ve personally witnessed exploding batteries in the shop during an improper charging cycle; it ain’t pretty (see my sidebar note below).

With the Truecharge2, the over-charging concern mentioned above is totally eliminated. Under normal circumstance (the absence of 12-volt DC anomalies), it is now possible to leave the RV plugged into shore power continuously, even without adult supervision. Here’s why, once the battery bank enters the Float stage and no 12-volt device is energized, it will stay in float for seven days or until the voltage falls below 12.5 volts for fifteen minutes. Assuming nothing is draining amperage out of the battery bank, after the seventh day, the Truecharge2 again begins its charging algorhythm anew, just to keep the batteries refreshed. Because of the integral design principles, the proper charging sequence remains in effect for as long as the Truecharge2 is powered by the 120-volt AC electrical supply.

One of the advanced features of the Truecharge2 is the inclusion of proper charging sequences based on the temperature of the battery. Though it is offered as an option, I highly recommend the installation of the Xantrex Battery Temperature Sensor (BTS). The importance of battery temperature is reinforced by virtually all battery experts even when measuring the Specific Gravity of each cell in a flooded battery. That’s why it is advisable to always use a temperature compensated hydrometer. So it is when charging a battery bank.

The Truecharge2 employs manual temperature settings if a BTS is not installed. And its importance cannot be overstated. A manually chosen incorrect temperature setting may cause the battery bank to be overcharged. The addition of the BTS, as part of the installation, will eliminate that concern. Temperature compensation is applied according to the following ranges:

·       Cold - battery temperature below 41-degress F.

·       Warm - battery temperature between 41 and 86-degrees F.

·       Hot - battery temperature above 86-degrees F.

With multiple batteries in a single bank, always install the BTS to the battery that is typically the warmest. All batteries in the same bank will be charged according to the temperature of the warmest battery.

Long considered a design fault with the typical converter/charger is the fact that it can only charge one battery bank. Usually only the house batteries receive a positive charge when connected to shore power in the typical RV. In a motorhome application, the engine battery only receives a charge via the engine alternator when driving down the highway. Taking into consideration the normal current draw on batteries in a static situation (parasitic drains), the motorhome engine battery often goes dead during lengthy stays in one location. Not so with the Truecharge2. In fact, it is designed with three separate charging outputs. (The third output may be utilized for a dedicated generator-starting battery). Now, both (or all three) battery banks can be safely charged whenever 120-volts AC electricity is available.

This eliminates the necessity of those dreaded “Emergency Start” solenoid switches found on some motorized RVs. I’ve been railing against them for decades. It is simply detrimental when two individually designed (drastically different) and totally separated battery banks are, all of a sudden, linked in parallel. With the push of a momentary switch, the two battery banks instantaneously become one big battery bank. The massive transfer of energy from the charged bank into the dead battery can damage internal plates, create excessive heat and cause accelerated sulfation in some batteries; none of which is a good thing (remember…the key word is optimization; that which is best!).

Whenever energized, the Truecharge2 charges all battery banks at the same time, but the most-drained battery bank receives the biggest charge first. This is determined by the unit’s built-in battery qualification sequence. Whenever 120-volts AC first powers the Truecharge2, it goes through a complete battery evaluation to determine which of the batteries is most in need of replenishment. So, if an RVer stays in one campground for a long time, he can be assured the engine starting battery will be up to snuff and should never have to be interconnected with the house battery ever again. The battery qualification sequence can be manually induced at any time, by the way, by simply removing the Truecharge2 from the AC source until all the indicators on the unit have gone dark. Then simply plug it back in. Each charging circuit is protected by a separate 30-amp fuse inside the Truecharge2.

Every RVer who has ever experienced less-than-stellar performances from the stock converter/charger should seriously consider adding the Truecharge2 to the 12-volt DC battery systems. This will help optimize the systems by allowing the converter to simply convert and the Truecharge2 to be the dedicated battery charger for all the batteries on the RV.

In order to function properly, the Truecharge2 must be “sized” appropriately for the task at hand. The user will have to determine how large all the battery banks are combined and then choose the correct DC output model to properly charge that bank. The minimum requirements are:

Truecharge2 (12-volt Models)                        Minimum Battery Bank Size

            20-amp (TC2012)                                                40 amps

            40-amp (TC4012)                                                80 amps

            60-amp (TC6012)                                                120 amps

I’ve installed the Truecharge2, complete with its comprehensive remote panel, in a motorhome and will be evaluating its performance over the course of a full RVing season. I’ll be posting updates as well as installation photos in the coming weeks and months as a follow-up to this RV Doctor Product Spotlight, so stay tuned! And remember, RVing is more than a hobby, it’s a lifestyle!

Sidebar Note:

The danger of battery explosions is very real concerning flooded lead-acid batteries. I tell this true story to my RV students to drive home the importance of practicing correct safety precautions while working on or charging RV batteries.

I was a working as a flat rate service technician at a large dealership that sold a very nice, elegant motorhome line. One of my shopmates was in the process of (incorrectly) charging a big 8D battery located in a side compartment of the motorhome. The compartment door was hinged on top. He had it flipped up and latched with two latches. The 8D battery was in a convenient slideout tray. Larry had the tray halfway slid out, battery caps off the cells and a healthy dose of current being pumped into it. Actually too much current as the battery was definitely gassing as it charged. Unfortunately, he had only latched one of the two latches and when he accidentally bumped that compartment door…you see it coming right? The aluminum-bottomed door fell across the two terminals on the battery and that big 8D battery literally exploded, spraying Larry and everything nearby with sulphuric acid. Thankfully he did not get acid in his eyes, but we never did find the majority of his right thumb. Safety is paramount when working on or near RV batteries! Never compromise the safety factor! ‘Nuff said!