RV Anti-Freeze

We have a Fleetwood Regal Prowler. It is a seasonal unit, set up at a campground year around. We are hooked up to city water and so do not use the fresh water holding tank. Can I pour 12 or more gallons of RV antifreeze into the tank and use what I need to winterize the trailer each year from what I have stored in the fresh water tank? And an important question, does the stored antifreeze remain stable or does it deteriorate?
Richard, (Oshkosh, WI)

I see no reason not to attempt what you are suggesting Richard. As long as you never need on-board, self-contained fresh water, why not use the fresh water storage tank as an anti-freeze holding container? RV anti-freeze will have a shelf life, but I do not know how long it will actually stay viable, so check with the suppler to be sure of its life expectancy. I’m sure the producer of that brand will have what’s called an MSDS sheet that should help shed some light on its lifespan.

And I’m certain you would not require twelve gallons of it to properly protect your Prowler. I do recommend a water heater by-pass kit to keep the anti-freeze cost down though. I would venture you’d be able to safely use the same anti-freeze for a minimum of at least two years. You can always test its effectiveness after that by using a coolant hydrometer. I’d run a little through the water pump as well to keep the gaskets and seals moist in there since you never use the pump while on city water. But, shoot….I’d say go for it since you employ city water all the time. If need be, it can always be flushed out later.

##RVT775

Using RV Antifreeze

I am winterizing my Hi-Lo and am wondering about putting RV antifreeze in the fresh water tank and pumping it through the system. That is what the book says to do. I don’t know if that is safe. Can I pull off the pump inlet hose, and put it directly into the jug of antifreeze and pump it through the lines? Dave A. 

Dave, you can absolutely pump the anti-freeze throughout the system as you suggested, but it might be easier by pumping it backwards through a faucet spout. In fact, a backflow kit, with a hand pump, is available for that very purpose. But it is totally acceptable to pour the anti-freeze directly into the fresh tank and use the RV’s water pump to pump it throughout the system as well. You can’t go wrong either way.

##RVT919
 

Fear of Freezing

I am freaking out! The temperature got down to 25 last night and we have water in our water heater and one gallon of water and a chemical in our black tank. We did blow out the water lines. Should I be concerned about the tank and water heater freezing last night? We were not expecting the temperature to drop so fast. We are camping and I am scared I am going to find a busted tank. Rhonda F.

Rhonda, I doubt any damage was done with one night below freezing, but if the temps are due to dip that low again, you’ll probably have to fully winterize the RV, including the water heater. If you have no water in the hot lines, the only way to blow out all the fresh plumbing lines with the water heater filled is to bypass it via the bypass valves. Perhaps you only need to drain the heater and all will be fine. You can easily drain the water heater by removing the plug and opening the P&T relief valve on the unit. But do verify all plumbing lines are clear of water; both hot and cold.

The holding tank is likely just fine also. Freeze damage occurs when lines freeze and expand the tubing. One gallon of water in a holding tank, even if it ices over, will not expand enough to cause any damage. It may cause the termination valves to stick a little, but nothing should be hurt. But it might be time to decide to move the RV or fully winterize it if the temperatures stay below-freezing for any length of time. No need to freak, however.

##RVT772; ##RVT875

Winterizing and Electrical Questions

I recently purchased a 2007 R-Vision Trail-Lite RV. I live in Iowa and am trying to winterize it but when I put the RV antifreeze in, I can’t get it to circulate throughout the system. Am I doing something wrong or do you think I have a bad pump? The owner’s manual has very sparse information. I also have a couple of plug-ins that don’t have any juice. Do you happen to know where I can get an electrical diagram for this camper? Thanks! Bill A. 

Bill, the easiest way to induce the RV anti-freeze into the system is to pour a couple gallons directly into the fresh water tank and allow the 12-volt pump to pump it through the system. Are you saying your water pump won’t operate at all? You can also empty the tank, disconnect the hose leading to the water pump inlet and insert that hose into a bottle of RV anti-freeze, but that still requires the RV’s water pump. There are also kits available that attach to the kitchen faucet where you can “back fill” the system using a manual hand pump. Some RVs are equipped with a "tee" fitting and valve located between the tank and pump that permits a short section of hose to be inserted directly into the bottle of RV anti-freeze. These types of kits can easily be added after the fact. Some even come equipped with a separate, permanent tank for the anti-freeze. Let me know if you are experiencing a water pump issue. But if it pumps water, it will pump anti-freeze.

I’m assuming the “plug-ins” you refer to are 120-volt AC receptacles. If all the circuit breakers are turned on and you do have power at other receptacles, check the GFCI mounted in the lavatory or galley. It’s likely tripped and is protecting more than just that receptacle. Simply push the reset button and then check those other receptacles. GFCI’s are usually configured to protect the bathroom and/or galley circuit PLUS all other receptacles installed downstream of that one.
Personally I do not have source for an electrical diagram (if one even exists). R-Vision does, however, have an active club online at this website. But alas, you must be a member to search the forum. I'd suggest you join that organization (it's free) and see if any of the members have access to the diagram you are looking for. Individual brand RV clubs are great sources of information, from owner to owner. Almost certainly you'll gain additional help from that group.

##RVT769;##RVT917

Winterize Using A "Schrader Valve?"

I have been hearing about dry winterizing a motorhome using a "Schrader valve" and blowing the water out using an air compressor set on 20-PSI, plus putting some of the pink stuff in the kitchen sink, bath sink and shower drains only. Is this a good idea? If so, how do I find the Schrader valve and where do I install one? Bobbie V., (Florissant, MO)

Bobbie, the device you are seeking that incorporates a Schrader valve is called a blowout plug. It has the air inlet valve (Schrader valve), on one end and a male hose fitting on the other end. Mine is made out of milled aluminum, but I've seen brass blowout plugs as well as inexpensive plastic blowout plugs. I do recommend the metallic type. 

The blowout plug attaches directly to the city water inlet hose connection, but only temporarily; it isn’t a permanent installation. Clean compressed air is then forced into the system to expel the water through the faucets and low point drain locations. It’s the quickest way to rid the fresh water system of water. Professional shops use them all the time while performing winterizing procedures or when any time an RV is going to be stored for any length of time. 

As you drain the fresh water tank and water heater, attach the blowout plug to the city water inlet. Open all faucets plus the hot and cold low level drain valves and then inject clean air. You can certainly apply more than 20-PSI since the entire piping system is pressure-tested at 80-PSI at the factory. And since all the faucets and valves will be open, it will be safe and quicker to use 80-PSI. Be sure it is clean air! Like I tell my seminar attendees, this is your fresh water system! Avoid using gas/filling station air or any air from a compressor equipped with a tank. The chance of contamination is greater if the compressor has a storage tank. 

In addition, pour a 1/4-cup of RV anti-freeze down each drain to fill the P-traps and you should be set for winter or any period of non-use. You can purchase a blowout plug at any RV dealer or service center’s parts and accessories department and many websites online. 

##RVT765;##RVT 863?;##RVT920

Frozen Holding Tanks

I think I really messed up; last night the temperature dropped to minus-5 degrees. I thought about the fresh water and left it dripping at a faucet, but I never thought about the holding tanks. They were left closed and by the time I thought about it at 2:00 am, it was too late. What is the best way to get them thawed out? The temperature is supposed to stay below freezing for a couple of days. Thanks! John R.

John, if your holding tanks are not in a heated compartment, but protected by a sub-floor or an enclosure on the bottom of the coach, a drop light with a 100-watt bulb placed within the same void will eventually thaw the contents of the tanks, albeit somewhat slowly. If the tanks are exposed underneath the RV, a common hair dryer, or better yet a heat gun, can be used to gradually thaw the tanks. But be extremely careful to not allow the gun to stay focused on one portion of the tank for very long; it can easily melt the plastic container. Slowly moving the heat gun over the bottom of the tanks in a slow arc will eventually de-ice them. It may take a while, depending on how large the tanks are, but it will eventually thaw. Be very sure the tanks are completely thawed prior to operating the waste valves for evacuation. It’s okay to also use the heat gun on the valves themselves, just don’t linger too long in one spot. In the future, you can always add windshield washer fluid (if permissible in the sewer system in your area) or RV anti-freeze to each tank to keep them from freezing. The fuller the tanks, the less likely to freeze. Just keep adding a half-gallon of anti-freeze each day the temps remain below freezing. 

##RVT778

Winterizing Woes

Winterizing my motorhome is a joke. There are no bypasses and to reach the pump you have to crawl over the bed to access it. There’s hardly room to add a winterizing kit and there’s no valves to bypass the hot water tank. Accessing the back of the water heater, you have to get on your knees go under a closet just to see anything! I sent an email to the manufacturer to redesign this and to give them a general slap on the hand for having a terrible product mechanical-wise. Us older adults should not have to crawl on our knees to get at things. I also don't want to buy ten gallons of RV antifreeze. Do you have suggestions on a quick fix? I asked the manufacturer to go out on the plant floor and look over a model and tell me what one of them would do. They sent me a schematic, which is great, but what to do? Joe Z. (Buffalo, NY)

Joe, regarding the difficulty in accessing certain components in your motorhome, you appear to be not a bit reticent. I have a seminar about “technically choosing” an RV and one of the precepts is, how easy is it to gain access to certain components. We look at floor plans, color schemes, amenities, etc., but some manufacturers rarely consider the owner’s access concerns. Not all, mind you, but some. 

Most water heaters will indeed be installed on the floor of the coach, so chances are, it will still take getting on your knees to switch the by-pass valves. Aftermarket by-pass kits are readily available for water heaters and I recommend the type that utilizes brass valves rather than plastic. To me, they hold up better in the long run. A certified RV tech should also be able to modify the fresh water line between the tank and the pump and make it easier to pump in the anti-freeze. But keep in mind, you can simply pour a couple gallons of RV anti-freeze directly into the fresh water tank and accomplish the same thing. An astute RV tech can also retrofit the plumbing by-pass equipment using electrically-operated solenoid valves, but this might prove a bit costly. But it is an option. I do encourage you to keep suggesting to manufacturers how to improve their products. Though they often may not have the answers you’re looking for at that given moment, they will, at least, listen to what you have to say. 

##RVT870

Winterizing an Icemaker

How do I winterize my ice maker? I have a Norcold refrigerator in a Fleetwood motorhome. Larry R., (Golden, CO)

Here are the steps, as recommended by Norcold:

   To winterize the water valve and water line:
         1. Shut off RV water supply to the ice maker.
         2. Raise and lock shutoff arm in OFF position.
         3. Disconnect the water inlet adapter from water valve.
         4. Disconnect the ice maker water line from water valve.

Here’s an additional tip I recommend for owners of ice makers when the incoming water connection is located high up on the rear of the refrigerator. In some instances, it’s virtually impossible to perform step #4 above without partially removing the refrigerator. Simply install an in-line, 1/4-inch compression-type shut-off valve in the icemaker tubing running up the rear of the refrigerator cabinet at a location that is easily accessed through the lower exterior refrigerator vent. In this manner, shutting off the valve and disconnecting the tubing going up to the icemaker, will drain residual water in the tubing line going up to the inlet valve and still provide a means of shutting off the line when inducing RV anti-freeze up to that point.

##RVT767; ##RVT872; ##RVT921

Sultry Storage

I usually store my coach in Central Florida outside from April to December and I have a couple of questions: How do you stop dampness from building up in the RV with the potential of mold forming in the heat of the summer? My hatches have covers. Should I leave the hatch open slightly or should I close them tight? Should I cover the windows with a reflective barrier to prevent the sun from shining into the coach? Thanks for your help. Barry R., (Ft. Myers, FL)

Barry, storing an RV for any period of non-use requires some key considerations. In your case, the process will vary slightly from my typical recommendations for a winter storage season. Having grown up just a few miles north of you in Bradenton, I know how sultry Florida summers can be! The key concern for warm, moist climate storage is indeed, prohibiting the build-up of moisture and the prevention of mold. 

The first thing you need to verify is that there are absolutely zero water leaks in the coach. Roof, roof components, windows, doors, compartment doors; literally everything screwed or attached to any exterior surface must be verified to be leak-free. 

To be 100% sure there are no air or water leaks in the RV, check out this interesting video:

Likewise, the plumbing systems must not have any leakage. I do recommend blowing out all the fresh water plumbing lines, thereby rendering the entire fresh system void of water. Keep water in the toilet bowl, the P-traps and in the bottom of each holding tank, however. 

Another key to summer storage as opposed to winter storage; in the winter, I like to see the coach completely air-tight, but during the hot, humid months of summer, I like to see some airflow through the coach. If you have a powered vent or similar cover over the 14-inch roof vents, leave one of them open at one end of the coach and leave a window cracked open at the other end of the coach; preferably a window closest to the floor, so convection air can flow through the interior. Now I know it will rain, so protect that window opening with some plastic sheeting or something else that can absorb any sideways raindrops that might enter. This is the toughest part, obviously, but doable. 

Another option is a total coach cover. A custom one that allows breathing to take place is preferred. With a custom cover, you’ll be able to vent air through the open roof vent and draw in fresh air through that window without the fear of rainwater entering in. Aftermarket desiccant containers are readily available from many retailers. They will absorb the moisture that will indeed enter the rig. Place them on a pie tin at various locations throughout the rig. I’d rather deal with collecting the moisture than tightly sealing the coach. A hot, stuffy, humid interior will further the proliferation of mold faster than one with ventilation, even though moisture will undoubtedly enter. Heat is one of the biggest generators of mold. The desiccant granules will absorb the excess moisture. You may need three or four containers, depending on the overall interior length of the RV. But in my opinion, a ventilated coach will be a cooler environment and less prone to mold development. 

Yes, cover the windows! I recommend half-inch thick sections of styrofoam be cut for each window opening. They can be form fitted or taped in place. Be sure to treat and cover the tires as well. Also, bring all the slides to the retracted position. You should be just fine come December.

##RVT848

I Would Like a New Trailer, But...

I am writing you for your opinion about an event that has taken place to our new trailer. We purchased a brand new unit from a local dealer June of last year and had many problems, (5 work orders worth). Prior to taking it in for work to be done, I took the low point drain plugs off and put RV anti-freeze in all the traps. One of the repairs that was made involved repairing a leaking water pump. When I dropped it off I asked if the temperatures were going to be below freezing that they blow out the lines. I had to pick the trailer up this past January because the service center needed the space and could not hold it until February when it was to be taken to the factory shop to have a wall and floor replacement completed. 

When I was at my storage location I, by chance, checked the low point drains and found the shop had put new plugs on and had left the water lines, water pump, and water heater filled with water and the lines were frozen solid. I checked the weather data and found that we had 10 plus days of below freezing temps while my trailer was at their shop. I know that they could do a pressure check to see if there is a leak but I feel that there could be damage to fittings, elbows and connectors that may not leak today but could be fractured and could leak later. I have told them they need to take my trailer back and trade straight across for another trailer on their lot, as they would never warranty the water system for the life of the trailer. I feel that they created an issue they can't fix. Are my concerns valid? And am I being unreasonable for my request to trade me for another new trailer? Randy K., (Tacoma, WA)

Your situation is a sticky one for a couple of reasons Randy. First and foremost; did they add your request to winterize the trailer onto the Repair Order? If they did, then I feel they could be liable. If not, then it would be your word against theirs and if the dealer is truly interested in customer service, they should honor the situation anyway. It’s doubtful they would swap another trailer out for you. Some states have lemon laws that may or may not force a dealer to do that, but it may prove difficult to prove a “lemon” situation. Especially since they are apparently taking care of the warranty issues you do have.

It’s also totally up to the dealership to determine if they are willing to store your trailer for three months free of charge. If they are indeed charging you a storage fee, there should be a listing of liabilities as to the safety of the unit during the storage period. Check your written agreement with them.

At the very least, they should definitely perform the NFPA water leak tests as per the RVIA Standard. A leak test will determine if the system has any leaks. If no leaks are detected, it’s doubtful they would appear in the future due to the freezing endured in that one incident. Perhaps you can negotiate a Repair Order that states something along the lines of “if” leaks develop in the future, that they will be taken care of via the coach warranty or an extended warranty that the dealership will honor. Future water leaks will still be covered by the current warranty for the remainder of the warranty time.

So if they agreed to winterize the coach, they could be liable for any and all freeze-related repairs. It’s not unreasonable to ask that they swap the RV, but once you take the emotion out of it, it’s also not unreasonable that they would be willing to test and repair current leaks as well as future leaks that may develop. A lot would depend on what was actually contracted for....the exact wording of the agreements and repair orders, etc.

But keep in mind, I’m not an attorney though I have performed “expert witness” evaluations/testimony and I’m happy to say I’ve never had to testify at a trial; we’ve always managed to negotiate a settlement or come to a logical resolution amicable to both sides. To be very sure of all your courses of action, I do recommend you get professional legal advice though.

##RVT884 

 

Leveling the RV Refrigerator

I understand it is recommended that RV refrigerators be level when operating, but how far "off level" can we keep the RV without damage to the refrigerator when the refrigerator is NOT in operation? I notice you recommend slightly off level for winter storage. Pete S., (Redwood City, CA) 

Pete, as long as the absorption refrigerator is completely turned off, the RV can be off level to any degree, (maybe not upside down), and not harm the cooling unit in the refrigerator. It is only while in operation must the refrigerator be relatively level in order to work properly and safely. Here’s another explanation you might find helpful. So if the unit is turned off, there’s nothing really to worry about if you store the coach off-level over the winter. 

And if you're really bored this winter, here's a slew of other RV refrigerator questions and answers to peruse. Don't worry, there will not be a test!  

##RVT922 

Why Synthetic Blocks Under Tires?

In an edition of your RV Doctor Newsletter, you said to use non-absorbing, synthetic blocks under the footprint of the tires when parked asphalt. Would you explain why? Don B., (North Las Vegas, NV) 

I do tend to favor blocking under the tires, Don, to raise them up off whatever surface you store the rig on, especially if it’s stored on asphalt. Simply put, petro-chemicals can be damaging to rubber components. Using the plastic blocks keeps the tires dry and out of contact with the asphalt. I’m not a fan of wood blocking for long-term storage since wood has a tendency to absorb and hold moisture. The less moisture, the less chance of mold and mildew to develop and grow. Moisture can also attract and sustain certain critters and if I’m away from the coach, I’d rather it be high and dry. Granted, the advantage might be subtle and likely immeasurable, but old habits are just hard to break.

##RVT845

Driving and Freezing in My RV

Hey Doc, I'm currently driving through New Mexico in a Class C motorhome. Temperatures are expected to be in the 15-degree range tomorrow. Our RV is not equipped with tank heaters and we're hoping you may have short-term suggestions to prevent damage to our holding tanks? Mike M., (Rockport, TX) 

For a temporary trip through freezing temperatures, Mike, I would suggest simply evacuating the holding tanks and leaving them clean and dry till you can purchase tank heaters or drive out of the cold. Overnight in the campground, simply position a droplight with a 60-watt or 100-watt bulb in the area of the holding tanks. Add a gallon of windshield washer fluid to each tank as well. You could use standard RV anti-freeze, but the windshield stuff is a lot less expensive. The fluid and that little bit of heat will allow you to use the tanks overnight and avoid potential freezing. Come morning, empty, flush and clean again until you get to a location above the freezing mark. Travel empty, use the windshield washer fluid and the drop lamp at night. If your holding tanks are exposed under the floor of the RV, radiant heat from the highway might also be enough to keep the contents from freezing, so you might be able to go a few days with just the windshield washer fluid. Tank heaters, however, are still a wise investment if you hang around the cold country often enough!

##RVT929 

How to Winterize an RV Washer/Dryer

Please tell me the best way to winterize a washer/dryer combo. Thanks! Jack O., (Bethpage, TN)

That's what I like Jack; short and to the point! You can't get any more direct than that! The simplest procedure that works best with all washer/dryer combos, is to simply drain all the water from the machine and turn off the water supply at the spigot for the washer fresh water inlet. If there is no shut-off valve dedicated to the washer, it is best to have one installed. 

Leaving the machine completely void of water and isolated from the rest of the fresh water system will enable you to use RV anti-freeze in the remainder of the system, if necessary. For the fresh water plumbing system, there are two winterizing methods; the dry method and the wet method. It is usually the depth of the expected winter that determines which way to go. I recommend the wet method (using RV anti-freeze) if many days of below freezing temperatures are expected. And the dry method if the expected temp stays above freezing for the most part.

Either way, with the washer/dryer totally isolated by a shut-off valve and no moisture in the machine, there will be no freezing problems. Plus, it is not recommended to use RV anti-freeze in some washer/dryer combos. So dry and isolated are your two operative words.

##RVT770; ##RVT866; ##RVT923

Re-using RV Anti-Freeze

I winterized my RV last year with RV antifreeze. I did not use the camper this summer or fall and never anti-winterized it. Will the antifreeze last a second winter? John V., (Mt. Vernon, IL)

John, the short answer is yes; performed properly, a winterized RV with RV anti-freeze will still be viable for a second winter. In fact, in my training seminars, I recommend capturing the anti-freeze during the de-winterizing procedures after the first winter and re-using it again for a second season. You can always "test" the liquid to be sure, but I've heard from many RVers who re-use the RV anti-freeze. After the second winter, it’s probably best to replace the anti-freeze for the next winterizing procedures however. It depends on the severity of your winter season, but it’s entirely possible to use the same RV anti-freeze for at least two seasons.  

De-tails of De-winterizing an RV

Last autumn, I bought my first RV and had the dealer winterize it after I was done traveling for the year. I want to de-winterize it myself but I'm not sure of what's involved. Can I just flush it out to remove the RV antifreeze? Can I obtain a pamphlet somewhere that covers winterizing/de-winterizing?
Peter, (New Kensington, PA)

Indeed flushing the fresh water system will rid your coach of RV anti-freeze, but there are certainly additional items to check and sequential tasks to perform depending on the extent that dealer performed the winterizing precautions last fall. The steps are too numerous to include in this response, but the November 2009 issue of Family Motor Coaching Magazine published an in-depth look at all the necessary winterizing steps. Additionally, the March 2010 issue holds the companion article for de-winterizing your motorhome. Each article details, step by step, all the procedures necessary for any motorhome. Give FMC Magazine a call and see if you can obtain a reprint of those articles. They'll be good references to rely on each year.

RV Batteries and a Cold Winter

What is the best thing for RV batteries during the winter? I have a new motorhome and this will be its first winter. Should I leave the batteries in and keep the coach plugged in or should I take them out and store them for the winter? How about the engine battery? Some people take them out, some people leave them in. Which is best? If I take them out should they be charged once in a while?
Gary, (Ludlow, KY)

Gary, it is always recommended to completely remove all the batteries during a really harsh winter. Fully charge them before storing them in a clean, dry location in a warmer shed or garage. A fully charged battery will freeze only if the temperature dips to 55 or 60-degrees below zero, while a discharged battery may freeze at or near 20-degrees above zero. But it’s still best to remove them from the RV and avoid freezing temperatures when possible. There is probably no need to apply a charge during the actual storage period, but fully charge them just prior to re-installing them in the spring.

It is only advisable to leave the RV plugged in during the storage period if the coach is equipped with a computer-controlled, three-phase battery charger; one that monitors and adjusts the charging voltage and current accordingly. Otherwise, there is a great risk of overcharging the batteries and/or boiling out the electrolyte.


##RVT869

No Screens Please

Do you have a source for mud dauber or wasp screens for the furnace inlet and outlet vent?
Bill, (Broken Arrow, OK)

Bill, I do not recommend blocking the fresh air inlet tube or the hot exhaust on the RV furnace with any type of screen, as popular as they seem to be. Any air restriction of these components will cause erratic appliance operation and shorten the life of the appliance. I do, however, recommend taping off those openings during winterizing or other periods of storage or non-use to keep the critters out, but during actual RV use you do not want to modify or impair air flow in or out of the unit.

All mud dauber's nests should be checked for and routinely removed during the annual cleaning of the furnace. The photo exemplifies the importance of annual furnace maintenance, but during the actual operation of the furnace, keep those tubes free from any obstructions! Including those screens commonly found in accessory stores.

Cold Winter Use

We have a Class C motorhome. We have used it quite often this winter and have resisted winterizing it because we use the shower and toilet and such. I have heated it through the winter so far without any problems, but during a recent cold snap the bathroom plumbing froze. I believe the problem is where the water lines run under the floor to the opposite side of the cabin. Interior heat, I suspect, was not enough to keep the lines from freezing under the floor. To thaw the lines, I am using a bullet heater under the motor home outside to try and get the floor temperature above 32 degrees. In the living area I have added a ceramic heater and fan and have opened all the drawers to get heat back into the recesses of the bathroom. So far I have been able to unfreeze the hot water line, but not the cold water line yet. What can I do to keep this from happening again? I cannot find any diagrams telling me exactly where the water lines run under the coach. Is my only solution to winterize those lines?
David, (Butler, KY)

David, winter RVing is indeed enjoyable - especially if the family is into the snow toys and/or slope activities. But, as you say, it can be difficult if the plumbing succumbs to below freezing temps. I would be surprised if the water lines truly are routed via the exterior under the coach. Typically they will route in and through cabinets or in voids through the walls and maybe under the top flooring. Some coaches, however, are better insulated than others, so it could be an insulation issue. If you can trace the lines, it may be possible to wrap them each in foam-type insulated jacket available at most home supply centers. There is also heat tape that can be wrapped around them in those areas prone to freezing. Accessibility is the key however.

If you didn't need water for the shower, another option would be to blow the fresh water lines clear of all moisture and simply use bottled water for flushing the toilet.

Also remember, running water is less likely to freeze. If possible, when you are connected to a dump assembly in a campground for instance, leave the gray tank valve open and the cold water seeping just a little through the bathroom faucet. The gray water will continually drain and this will minimize the chances of the cold line freezing. All this advice from a guy who spent all but the last few years living in FL and SoCal! But it may help. Other than that, winterization is the only other viable option when the coach is not in use.

##RVT771; ##RVT881

Tire Protection

We purchased a used Gulfstream Sun Voyager last year as our introduction into the RV world, and have loved it ever since! I have read in many RV magazines that protecting the tires on these units is critical. Our RV has been in outside storage without covers since December. When we bring it out in the spring, I would like to "dress" the tires with something to help keep the rubber soft and protect their life some. What is the best thing to buy or use for this?
Tom, (West Chester, PA)

Tom, I have had good success over the years using a product called 303 Aerospace Protectant. It used to be called AP 303 in the old days. It's available at any well-stocked RV retail store. Avoid products containing silicone or any other type of petroleum distillate which can actually dry out the tires making the thinner sidewalls more vulnerable. Ever notice a real "shiny" finish on a recently dressed tire? Yes, it looks nice, but chances are it is not helping to extend the life of that tire or protecting it from ultraviolet sun damage or that nasty ozone that is common in many locales. 303 will not leave the tires shiny, but it is effective. And still consider some tire covers for the next storage period also. You can't beat double protection.

For more detail on tire protection, see my response to Murray.