Where's the VIN on my 5th Wheel?

I have been given a fifth-wheel that has no title. I am in the process of obtaining that, but need to know where I can find the VIN number. An internet search has proved fruitless and those responding often tell me to look on the tongue next to the bumper hitch. Obviously, they don't know what a fifth wheel trailer is. I'd truly appreciate your help. I do enjoy your information coming to my inbox every week- I'm learning loads! thank you in advance.  
Tina G.


Tina, for towable recreational vehicles, fifth-wheels and conventional travel trailers, the Federal certification label with the manufacturer’s VIN is typically found on the left, roadside front corner of the coach, near the bottom of the sidewall. In some cases, it may also be posted inside a cabinet door or even on the entry screen door. But the required spot is at that front left corner, down low on the sidewall. Here's an example provided by Keystone RV.

##RVT933

In Need of a Triple Entry Step Assembly

I banged up the 5th wheel triple steps and need to replace them. I want to get good quality and don't know what is good and what might be cheaply made and weak. Basically, I want the best bang for the buck. I currently have a 7-inch rise between the steps. Do you have a recommendation of which to buy? Mike W., (Clovis, CA)

Well Mike, you didn’t mention whether your damaged entry steps are motorized or if your 5th wheel is equipped with the manual, pull-out steps. Either way, I do have a couple of recommendations for you to ponder. If you are replacing a powered entry step, I can heartily recommend the motorized “Coachstep,” as produced by Lippert Components, Inc., as a ready replacement. You’ll want their Part Number 285312. I’ve actually witnessed Lippert step assemblies being manufactured, tested and retested, ad nauseam, and I’m convinced these powder-coated steps with their self-lubricating bushings, along with their 750-pound rating will serve you well for many years to come. The only caution I mention, is that the riser distance between steps is a traditional 8-inches; a little taller than what you have now. Be sure this will not cause a clearance problem or interfere with your physical ability to enter and exit the RV. Also, if your current damaged electric step assembly is a Kwikee unit, it will be necessary to replace the door magnets/switch since the Kwikee is simply not compatible with the new Lippert Coachstep electronics. 

Now, all that said, if your current step assembly is the old-school manual, fold down set of three steps, I’d recommend either upgrading to the electric Coachstep (always an option, by the way), or at the very least, checking out Lippert’s Tread Lite Steps. Due to their anodized aluminum tread construction, the Tread Lite is the lightest set of steps I’ve personally seen anywhere in the aftermarket. Even in the triple-step format, it will still weigh close to 20 pounds less than equivalent steel steps. One of the coolest things I like about the Tread Lite is the inclusion of cast linkages between the pivot points. It simply looks good. Powder coated to resist oxidation, the entire assembly is rated for 350-pounds. The three-step model you’ll require is Part Number 293661. Their look will compliment any coach exterior given the aluminum of each step set against the black powder coating of the connecting linkages. Also, I’m at the point where “lightweight” is a huge selling point for me so I can almost guarantee you’ll not get worn out moving Lippert’s Tread Lite Step assemblies in and out manually, even multiple times per day if so required. 

As for ordering either Lippert step, I’d suggest giving them a call first to determine the best method of payment and delivery. Call 574-537-8900  or visit www.lci1.com and enter through the “Parts Store” tab at the top of the page to see all their offerings. Here's the direct link to the Tread Lite Steps I mentioned above.

Electric Brakes - Unintended Break-away Switch Activation

After we set up our 5th wheel at the RV park, the breakaway switch cable got snagged in the truck box and I pulled the plug out of the breakaway switch. I noticed it laying in the box three days later. I immediately put the plug back in. The trailer is plugged into 50 amp service so the batteries are continuously being charged. Would there be any damage to the break magnets or the switch itself? Also when would the magnets release? When I reinserted the plugs, or would I need to jack up the trailer and spin the wheels? Your assistance would be appreciated. Garry F., (Mill Bay BC, Canada) 

The good news, Garry, is that it’s unlikely anything was damaged by the constant, three-day amp draw. I’m sure the magnets got pretty warm, but nothing was spinning so there would be no extra wear on the magnets or the armature plate inside the wheel assembly. As soon as you re-inserted the pin, the current flow was terminated. As long as the batteries held their charge by being plugged into shore power the whole time, chances are the batteries are fine too. Unless the trailer was also plugged into the truck during this time, there’s nothing to worry about from the dash controller end of the circuit. If the truck WAS plugged into the trailer, I’d replace its 12-volt circuit breaker, which may have been rendered weaker due to the constant current flowing through it. That component may have overheated, but typically it would not be involved in activating the brakes under normal break-away circumstances anyway. You should be good to go! 

##RVT782
 

Failed Lift Mechanism on a Folding Camping Trailer

I have a 2000 Coleman Timberlake Pop up camper. Weeks ago we had a camping trip and when we finish putting everything we needed in the camper, we started to close it. When I started to crank it down it didn't move. I tried again and again and it started spinning loose. There went the camping trip. Now I don't have a clue what happened and I cannot take it to a repair shop. I see no broken cables. The rod under the trailer doesn't move. There are two little sprockets before the rod. Any tips? Enrique R., (Lehigh Acres, FL)

A common problem associated with those lifting mechanisms Enrique, is the eventual failure of the shear pin that connects the drive mechanism to the whiffle tree. Of course there are multiple parts in the link, but the most common component to fail is that pin. In some cases it’s difficult to get to it. Here’s where you can download the manual for that lift mechanism. Use the manual to determine how to effectuate the repair. It shouldn’t be too difficult, but do your homework and read through the manual first. A closer inspection, once you open up everything, will determine your course of action. Wish I had more definitive solutions for you, but the manual should help. 
 

Bent or Mispositioned Trailer Axle

I have a 2009 Montana 2980. I keep wearing out the left rear tire, about 2 inches of the inside like the camber is out of spec. The rest of it looks like new, about 8000 miles or less on it and all of other 3 tires look like new. I had it in the dealer where I bought it in Wisconsin just before my warranty was over and they couldn't find anything wrong with it but Keystone did give me a new tire and sent me on my way. I keep check on my air so I know that's not it. I wore another tire out in about the same amount of miles and am starting on my third one while the rest still look like new. Keystone had me take it to another shop and they told Keystone the axle was bent 2 feet in from that wheel. They claimed that I hit something with it. I know I didn't, so when I got the trailer home I put a straight edge on the axle and I checked the same on the front axle and they both come out with the camber on it, so I know that it is not bent there. This has done this with different rims so that is not it either. I do have another appointment with the dealer where I had it the first time but I don't know if it is going to do any good or not as they couldn't find anything wrong the first time. Please let me know if you can help me with this problem. The type of tire is a Goodyear Marathon 235/80/R 16 rated E. Thanks! Ervin P., (Seattle, WA)

So sorry to hear about your tire wear problem Ervin. That CAN get expensive if not corrected. Couple things...I'm attaching some Dexter Axle info sheets that may help your shop determine if that axle is indeed installed properly. There's an info sheet plus an installation guide. Also, you can request the actual service manual for your axles by going to this page on the Dexter site. 

It's quite possible the hub assembly and backing plate have been mis-positioned, probably during the initial installation, but it will require a detailed inspection and close measurements to be sure. That's why I'm hoping the installation guide will be helpful for a knowledgeable troubleshooter to verify.

I'm sure you're aware, but be sure the tire is inflated to the proper air pressure based solely on the weight that tire is carrying. A number of weight measurements are required to determine exactly how much weight each tire is supporting. Let me know if you need guidance for weighing your rig.

But after a close inspection and some crucial measurements, a good tech should be able to determine the cause of your uneven tire wear. I don't think the tire itself is the issue unless the inflation is incorrect for the amount of weight it is carrying. I'm guessing it's something peculiar to your trailer and that axle. Something in that alignment is just not correct. Of course, I know you're already aware of that!