Product Spotlight: H2Out Dehumidifiers

Dear RV Doctor, I am new to owning and living in an RV so I am not familiar with propane heat. I have read that propane heat also puts out moisture. What is the best way, easiest and most economical, to handle moisture and condensation in an RV? Thanks! Jacki

Hey Doc, I have a 25-foot RV with a new 13,500 btu air conditioning unit. The problem is at night time the humidity level is high, over 80%, with the temperature around 70-degrees. What should I do? Dustin
 

Well Jacki and Dustin, it's true any gas-fired burner emits moisture (propane, natural gas, etc.), as well as rooftop air conditioners. And indeed moisture can be problematic in and around any RV. There are a multitude of desiccants commercially available that can help reduce moisture accumulation and I've experimented with many over the years since pervasive moisture/condensation have been a never-ending battle for RVers in most climates. 

I recently completed a test of a renewable dehumidifier that uses no electricity and does not require messing dumping of the water it collected. It's called H2Out. The nice thing is that it is available in varying sizes/capacities making it the perfect companion for RV travelers. And since there is no water collecting there's no fear of spillage as you travel up and down hills in the RV. And the best part; it works!

The H2Out is comprised of silica gel modules as opposed to solid silica clay particles. Silica gel can absorb up to one third its own weight. And each H2Out dehumidifier contains thousands of gel beads encased in a stainless steel canister that is easily stored, used and renewed. Renewed properly periodically, each canister will likely last the life of your RV.

The gel beads are normally blue in color and turn to pink as they absorb the moisture in the air. Depending on the size of the canister, they should easily last 30-60 days before needing renewing. At least that's what their literature stated. I ran my tests for a full 90 days just to see what would happen. 

For my review of the SD309, I first ran a three-month test of an unheated space, unprotected by a dehumidifier. I measured the humidity and temperature extremes during this benchmark test. I then placed the H2Out in the same space for another 90 days and measured both extremes again.

Here are the overall results:

Without Dehumidification                                     With the H2Out in Place
Temperature Extremes: 68 - 79-degrees                Temperature Extremes: 54 - 81-degrees
Humidity Extremes: 31 - 43%                                  Humidity Extremes: 24 - 69%

The test was performed in Seattle, WA where the moisture content can vary drastically over the course of the year. Clearly the H2Out obtained the lowest humidity measurement. The benchmark test was performed from late spring to early summer (May - July). The time period for the H2Out test ran from July to September.

The beads began turning slightly pink within a week, which is normal since the moisture is absorbed from the outside to the inside. After 90 days, it was clear it was time to recharge the canister. I'm convinced I would have gotten better results had I recharged the H2Out at the recommended 60-day mark. 

The renewing process is quite simple if you have an electric oven, (uh...don't place the stainless steel canister in a microwave!). It was a little more detailed with my gas cooktop. Do read the recharging instructions carefully! My test canister is now back in my controlled space to see how it performs during a 60-day run of a NW winter.

I am convinced the H2Out is quite worthy of its stout price since it will literally last for years with proper renewing. At the suggestion of Marilyn at Ken Murphy Associates, I plan to place an SD106 in my refrigerator. Though it's probably harder to quantify since I'll not record measurements, I'm informed it works wonderfully inside the food compartment of any absorption refrigerator.

I'd recommend readers visit the H2Out website and read through the informative pages. Though more costly than other, higher maintenance dehumidifiers, I feel serious RVers need to at least check it out.

Please Remain Seated

We have 39-foot Excursion motorhome. My wife's chair's footrest no longer retracts. What could be the problem? My local dealer was no help. Jim R., (no city/state)

Jim, it’s doubtful any RV service center will have an assortment individual component parts for the Flexsteel seats. Some may be able to diagnose and properly repair the foot rest, but an in-depth inspection would be necessary. Flexsteel does have a communications page on their website. Perhaps if you contact them they can provide additional assistance. Go to this page...
 
Hope this helps a little bit at least!

Slideout Fabric(ating)

I have a 2003 Safari Zanzibar and want to redo the fabric around the slideout edges. It appears that the few screws on the front are not the only ones holding this trim on. Are they also attached from the back? How do I get to them? I enjoy your column. We have been RVing since 1967. Keep up the good work! King F., (Anderson, SC) 

Wow, that’s a tough one without seeing it firsthand King. I’m guessing the fabric was installed prior to the slide room being inserted into the opening in the sidewall. It’s not uncommon for the room to be completely assembled independently of the RV, then slid into place and connected. 

Perhaps if you partially retracted the room you can use a mirror to look behind the fascia to see if there are other fasteners holding it in place. Or maybe send a few photos so I can get some idea of what the situation actually looks like. That would be my best guess without seeing in in person, unfortunately.  

UPDATE!
King's latest response:  Gary thanks for you insight. As you suggested, I pulled in a slide part way and found that there were no screws on the back side, so I removed all the exterior screws and the molding came right off. I guess I should have tried this first before bothering you. We have already finished reupholstering all 11 pieces and reinstalled them. They look as good as original. If anyone asks, it was quite easy and no sewing involved but lots of staples! Thanks again for your insight and excellent information to all us RV'ers. King

PS: This our 9th motorhome in the past 43 years and I do 80-90% of all maintenance on them. 

Gary's Response:
Way to go! That's why you're the King! 
   

Making Use of Extra Space in an RV

I have a 2011 Damon and want to add pull-out drawers to the dinette seats. Do you have a recommendation on the type of hardware I should use? I know I will need to build up the foundation the tracks will be on so as not to pinch off the seat belt connections. Are there other technical considerations I should be thinking about? Thank you! Dale W., (Union Springs, NY)

Personally I favor the smoother action of ball bearing drawer slides, Dale, but there are many price points to choose from at any of the big box home supply centers or your local hardware store. One thing to check first however; be sure sure you have clearance underneath each dinette seat to incorporate a new drawer assembly. Oftentimes, RV manufacturers use that “hidden” space to stash equipment such as the water pump, furnace (see photo) or other accoutrements. You certainly do not want to negate the return air or ventilation to any hidden components. Gain access from up above first and see just what might be under each seat. With storage a premium on most recreation vehicles, it would be odd that the manufacturer didn’t install a drawer or cabinet door if that space was truly available. But you never know; anything is possible! 

##RVT835;##RVT939

Paint and Paper an RV Interior?

Can you paint and or wallpaper the inside of an RV? A service person said it will cause mold under the painted or papered area. I would love to brighten up the interior of a fairly new travel trailer. Patty K., (Shanksville, PA)

Patty, properly prepped, it is quite plausible to paint, tile, refinish or wallpaper inside an RV. It’s done all the time. Remodeling and renovating is actually a booming aftermarket business. Basically anything you do in a conventional house can be done in an RV, but preparation is the key. I’ve never heard of the act of painting or papering causing mold to appear. Moisture, dirt and microbes, yes, but not paint or paper. So brighten away! Just be sure to follow the instructions explicitly and know for sure what kind of surface you are covering.

##RVT832; ##RVT913

Securing a Table to RV Paneling

I read your articles and columns for years and was interested about your discussion of nutserts. Will nutserts work on the inner walls of an RV? Paper covered thin plywood with foam backing. We have a wall mounted folding table that keeps coming loose from the wall. I would like to secure it permanently. I'm wondering if the nutserts would work? Harold K. (no city, no state)

Harold, the nutserts I mentioned in the column are specifically designed for thin metals or fiberglass. There are other hollow-wall fasteners that are similar that will work better in wood paneling. As long as your table isn't too heavy and you're only trying to stabilize it rather than have the weight solely supported by the wall anchors. The best would be a molly-type fitting that installs simply by tightening the included screw. The type you need will have teeth that actually grip the paneling as the screw is tightened. Once the expansion takes place inside the wall, the screw is removed and reinstalled through the table brackets.

The above photo shows a variety of mollies. The two in the middle have a pointed end and are designed primarily for sheet rock. The other two are designed for paneling. They are available in sizes ranging from very small to 1/4-inch in diameter. I would suggest this type would be better suited for securing your folding table to the wall. Simply drill a hole slightly smaller in diameter than the molly and force it in. As you tighten the screw, it expands inside the wall. You’ll want one designed for the thickness of your existing paneling. They are readily available at any of the big box home improvement stores.

RV Carpet Replacement

We are considering replacing the carpeting in our motorhome with new carpeting or vinyl flooring. Should we see an RV service dealer or a carpet store?  Thanks!  Carole B. (Kalamazoo, MI)

Carole, a lot depends on if you have slideouts in the motorhome. With today’s proliferation, I’m going to assume you do. With that in mind, it would be best to contact an RV outfitting (decorating) company. There are quite a few located throughout the country. They differ from a regular dealership or stand-alone service center in that they specialize in updating, upgrading and redecorating primarily the interiors of coaches. Start with a Google search for “RV Outfitter” or “RV Decorator” in your area. That said, I've seen some amazing work come out of a shop in eastern WA, Truline RV. Take a look at some of their photos!

The slideouts pose the biggest problem for any service shop or RV decorator. Some rooms simply slide above the main coach flooring while others are flush with the finished flooring when extended. The shop must have experience with partial removal (at the very least) of the slideout room in order to get the finished flooring properly attached under the leading edge of the slide room in either case. To do so requires an expertise not usually found in a “typical” service shop. That said, it’s entirely possible your local motorhome dealer has that capacity. Most assuredly, a retail carpet store will not. 

So you should first learn exactly how your coach manufacturer installed the existing flooring and see if that would present a problem for any shop to remove and install a new flooring surface. Carpet or vinyl, either way, it will probably have to be tucked under the slide room and secured properly. 

I’ve gotten quite a few emails from readers who have experienced the problem of the slideout catching on the edge of the new flooring and damaging it. Most shops familiar with slideout removal and adjustments will probably have the tooling necessary to fully or partially remove the room, or at least tip it back somewhat creating room for the installer to get in there to attach the raw edge of the new flooring correctly. But it is certainly doable. I encourage you to take some photos of the process, if possible; it would make a good article! 

##RVT801; ##RVT895

RV Construction - Interior Wall Removal - UPDATE!

I have an older RV I just bought. It is kind of a project for me and one of the things I'd like to do is open up the bathroom area in back. But to do so I have to remove a cabinet and two short inner walls. Not having worked on motorhomes before I am wondering if I can just remove the walls or if they serve some load bearing function. They are located on the back wall and don't seem to do anything but divide space, but I don't want to make a major mistake.
Joel, (Taylors, SC) 

Joel, there are no load-bearing interior walls in the motorhome. You are correct; they are there simply to create separation between areas of the RV and are considered basic partition walls. And I’m guessing every one will be hollow walls at that. You’ll probably also find screws coming into the cabinets from the outside in. These can simply be hack-sawed or cut with a Saws-All. 

Update from Richard Miller: Gary, you recently advised that it was OK to cut an RV interior wall and that the walls in RVs were not load bearing. I agree about the load bearing statement, but I also know that I have black/gray vent pipes and wiring to switches and thermostats located in the interior walls of my 5th wheel. They are not all located in the outside shell walls. The questioner should be advised to proceed with caution after careful examination.

Thank you Richard! You are exactly correct and you may have saved Joel some headaches. Indeed if the partition wall exhibits any type of electrical component, it may be necessary to re-route some wiring before removing the wall itself. Also, if the partition wall appears to be a couple inches wide or more, there could be some vent piping stashed behind there. As Richard mentioned, proceed with caution if any doubt exists.

Pimpled RV Interior Paneling

Our motor home is 2 years old and we have discovered what is best described as small pimples on the interior wallboard under the passenger window. I'm guessing there is about 100 of them that are 1/16" wide. Suspecting this is a water leak I removed the interior window trim and sprayed water on the roof and window looking for a leak and found nothing. What could this be? Thomas (Lodi, OH)

Thomas, you are probably correct; such marks are typically caused by moisture reacting with the glue on the wall panels. As a starting point, removing the window trim was the right course of action. If you are sure there is no source of water entry at the window or the roof above the window then the water is likely entering somewhere else and eventually seeping towards the window, where it finds its way to the inside of the coach. A good place to start a detailed inspection would be exterior moldings or trim pieces mounted close to the window. Inspect them very carefully for open seals, rusted mounting screws, etc. Also inspect the entry door seals and any other fitment attached to the sidewall that is at the same level, or likely higher, than the window. Remember, water seeks its own level, so the leak could literally be anywhere above the window. Excessive moisture can migrate laterally to a lower location before it is actually manifests itself. Water leaks can be extremely difficult to find and need to be caught early to avoid an expensive repair. Search meticulously and thoroughly and you should find it. RV repair facilities can be a last resort if you simply cannot locate the entry point of the moisture. Some will be equipped with ultrasonic devices that can locate water leaks in a relatively short time. If all else fails, take it to a pro shop. Be sure to use a sealant that is applicable to the material(s) you'll be applying it to once you located the source.

Replacing RV Carpeting

I have an older (1987) motorhome and would like to replace the worn carpet. How is this carpet originally installed by the factory? How do I install the new carpet? I’m very handy, but I need to know the correct procedures.
Paul, (Worthington, OH)

Chances are, Paul, the original carpet was simply stapled to an underlayment of plywood or pressboard. Keep in mind that during manufacture, some RV floors are fully carpeted before the partition walls, cabinets and furnishings are installed so it’s doubtful you’ll be able to remove every square inch.

Complete removal is not always necessary, however, since the old carpet itself can be selectively retained in closets and under storage cabinets. If the existing carpet was installed before the cabinets and partition walls, carefully cut along the walls and cabinets with a sharp razor knife to cut out the old carpet. Save these pieces. They may be used as a pattern for the new carpet. Be sure to check the floor area carefully after removing the old carpet.

Completely sweep the wood flooring clean and sand any rough areas. Cabinet doors that are low to the floor should also be removed for easier handling of the new carpet. If a thicker carpet and pad are going to be installed, some cabinet doors may have to be repositioned to accommodate the added thickness of the carpeting. In most cases, this is not a major concern, but I do recommend a thick carpet pad. Get a good one.

As mentioned, any removed sections of the old carpet can be used as a pattern for cutting the new one but it is wise to leave a little extra material all the way around the perimeter and trim the pieces to fit exactly at the time of placement. A razor knife with a new blade works best for cutting virtually all carpet materials. Stock up on blades and change them often during the installation process. Use a metal straight edge whenever possible to produce a nice, crisp edge.

After cutting the carpet to fit, lay it out flat inside the coach and work from one end of the motorhome to the other. Force the new carpet into the edges at the cabinets and carefully trim the remainder of the excess with a sharp razor knife. Since the area in the RV is relatively small, a carpet knee-kicker is usually not needed; just a decent staple gun. There are other means, but the stapler reigns supreme because it is fast and easy to use and the staples are easily concealed within the pile of the carpet. It is recommended that an electric or air-powered stapler be rented or otherwise obtained for the task of securing the carpeting.

Double-faced carpet tape is also quite handy for attaching the carpet in close quarters or under cabinets where a stapler may not fit. In most motorhomes, there is a point where the carpet meets linoleum, tile or a wooden section of the flooring. One transitional method is to simply fold the carpet under and staple it to the floor. When folding the carpet under, remove the woven backing from the carpeting first, then cut the pad back the width of the fold (about 2-inches or so), so that the folded carpet lays as flat as possible.

There may be another preferred method for that style of carpeting such as a metal or wooden threshold molding. After the carpet has been stapled to the underlayment, remount any furnace ducts or cabinet doors that may have been removed prior to the installation. Keep in mind; it may be necessary to raise some cabinet doors to provide enough clearance above the carpet for the door to swing freely.

When carpeting in the lavatory, it is best to remove the toilet completely and to allow the carpet to cover the floor all the way up to the perimeter of the floor flange. After installing the carpet, reinstall the toilet. Taking your time, double checking measurements and using a sharp razor knife will make the job of carpet replacement a fairly easy task. Additionally, a new carpet will reflect a personal touch that can be enjoyed for many, many miles. And it always adds to the trade-in value.

Microwave Replacement

I am contemplating replacing my built-in microwave oven in my 34-foot motorhome. The current one does not have a turntable. I want to replace it with one that does have a turntable. My question is, will an over the counter tabletop microwave work without using special venting? I don’t recall seeing special venting on the one I have now.
John, (Jeffersonville, IN)

John, any standard 120-volt, 60 cycle, household-type microwave oven should work fine in the motorhome. Check the installation guide that comes with the new unit to be sure, but I'm not aware of any special exterior venting that would be required. The trickiest part, however, is finding a way to secure it safely. You certainly do not want it becoming a launched missile of sorts each time you make a wide turn or come to a quick stop. Simple "L" brackets secured to the sides of the microwave and the bottom of the cabinet work in most instances. I’ve seen them secured with a trim kit that is easily fabricated if your new microwave does not have that as an option. If you have any doubts about the installation though, take it to a professional shop.

More Shade Needed

The strings on our mini blinds have deteriorated somewhat. Can they be restrung somehow or can an ordinary person replace those mini blinds or should I take it to the dealer? Does the framework around the window have to be removed in order to make the repair or to replace them?
Joyce, (Conifer, CO)

Joyce, indeed re-stringing those shades is difficult. Those that I have done in the past required holding my tongue just right as well as a minimum of three hands and a lot of time. My advice is to have the dealer perform this task and allow him to assume the liability to get it right. But this is from one with very little patience or tolerance for such things; you may opt to do it yourself if you feel so inclined.

(For additional info regarding re-stringing day/night shades, see this other archived question.)

Replacing the complete assembly, however, is so much easier. Look closely at how they are hung. There will be brackets of some sort that attach the assembly inside or just above the window opening. Though attaching methods vary, rarely will the inside garnish trim need to be removed. If you’re handy with common tools, you should have no problem replacing them yourself.

RV Remodel

This may be a common problem other older trailer owners are facing. We bought a second-hand fiberglass Burro trailer which we are very happy with but would like to upgrade the trailer to include a toilet and shower with a black and grey water system. The manufacturer has gone out of business so we have called the two other competitors of small fiberglass trailers, Scamp and Casita to see if they could retrofit the toilet and shower. They stated they would not be able to do so. Do you know of anyone who does custom retrofitting or where we can buy supplies and obtain information to do it ourselves?
Frank, (Globe, AZ)

Frank, though difficult, retrofitting an existing RV can be accomplished in many cases. The problem with the smaller units is space limitations, especially when installing plumbing vents and drains as well as the holding tanks. It would require a thorough inspection to determine if such additions are even possible on your unit. Try to find companies that specialize in RV modifications, commonly they are referred to as RV decorators. Also contact van converters for their opinion as well. Most any competent, full service RV repair facilities should also be able to evaluate your situation.

Unfortunately, I’m not aware of any RV decorators in your area. All the parts and supplies, however, should be easy to gather from sources including Home Depot, Lowe’s and standard RV accessory stores. The holding tanks and RV toilet can be purchased at any RV supply house, but common ABS drain and vent piping as well as all the fittings and solvents are available at any of the big box home improvement stores too.

Soggy Safari

We live in our 37-foot Safari full-time, but haven't driven it much over this past winter. As you know, we've received much more rain this winter than usual. Because of this rain, the inside of the coach has been "flooded" with condensation. We wipe the windows and everything we can think of. We’ve even tried drying chemicals, which really bother my eyes – but we still get water on the ceiling, in the cabinets, etc. Plus we're afraid of mold. We have two roof vents and covers for them, but my husband has been too busy on the few dry days we've had to install them. And we have awnings over the windows. What can we do?
Kathy, (Grass Valley, CA)

Kathy, condensation is one of those RVing facts of life that unfortunately can never be totally eliminated, only minimized. It has to do mainly with the construction and insulation limitations of the RV design, (thin walls and lots of windows). Though some RVs are better insulated than others, some degree of condensation is still inevitable since the air inside the RV is almost always warmer than the air outside, especially during the winter months. There are methods, however, you can employ to keep condensation to a minimum.

The first thing to do is get those vent covers installed even if you must take your Safari to an RV service facility. During use, keep the rear-most roof vent opened and the forward-most window cracked open slightly. The process of convection will move a lot of the moist air out. This air movement can be aided with the addition of a small electric fan or with the air conditioner fan when connected to shore power. A small, portable dehumidifier or two may help as well, but again they should be used only when 120-volt AC power is available. The use of a silica gel desiccant will also help absorb excess moisture in the air.

Finally, on those chilly, rainy nights set the furnace to a lower temperature setting. Combined, these methods will help reduce your moisture problem and further prevent the formation of mold.

Soggy Panels/Mitered Mattress

I have a Jamboree that has some interior damage from water leaks. I believe I have stopped the leaking but would like to find out how to replace interior ceiling and wall panels damaged by the water. I am also looking for a replacement mattress that has a diagonal cut on the corner.
Ray, (Silver Spring, MD)

Ray, damaged interior paneling can be removed and replaced in some instances, but more often than not, it may be best to simply install new paneling over the existing panels if the structural members inside the wall are still viable.

Cabinets, partition walls and other components make complete removal difficult. Oftentimes the paneling is installed before the cabinets are placed making it necessary to completely gut the interior in order to fully remove the older panels. Old paneling may be cut, with a razor knife, close to cabinetry for removal, but then it is necessary to install additional support members inside walls to attach new panels. Much easier to simply glue new panels over the old if you are sure you have the leak stopped. Unfortunately I am not aware of any instructional materials in any media available for this type of repair.

The infamous corner-cut mattress. It's extremely hard to find any two RV makers using the same exact size. They all differ in some aspect; even across varying models of the same brand. There is, thankfully, a solution to this dilemma. The Perfect Fit Mattress, offered by Handcraft Mattress Company. They will custom build any style or size mattress for any RV. All they need are the dimensions for your application and this family owned and operated business will have your mattress ready in two or three weeks, typically. Call them at 800-241-7751. They will send you a brochure with all the pertinent ordering instructions. They happen to have locations on each side of the US which helps facilitate the quick turn-around time. Not only for corner-cut applications, HMC is also the source for short queens, rounded corners and any other odd-ball size you can imagine. I can still envision the weird shape of the cabover mattress in an old pickup camper I had many years ago.

Tile Time

Can ceramic tile be installed in a motorhome? If so, what type of flooring is best to put down? Clark, (Knippa, TX)

Clark, yes indeed, ceramic tile can be successfully set onto a motorhome floor. Proper preparation is the key. The surface must be leveled and all seams in the underlayment must be smooth with even transitions between them. Most every home builders supply center, such as Lowe’s or Home Depot, will have all the necessary preparation materials you’ll need. 5/8 or 3/4-inch plywood works very well as an underlayment. It seems motorhomes built on the larger chassis’ fair better with tile since the upper flooring is somewhat stiffer than those of a standard Class A design. There have been some evidence of cracking in the grouted joints with some RVs which tend to flex more, but with the proper materials and workmanship, ceramic tiles add much to the individuality of your RV. Marginal weight restrictions may have to be considered on those RVs approaching their limit. You might have to do some math first.

Is It Wood or Is It Metal?

Is the floor of the typical Tioga motorhome from the 70's wooden or metal? Should I use linoleum, hardwood or carpet to cover the sub-floor? This is my first RV.
Stephen, (La Mesa, CA)

Stephen, the flooring on your motorhome, as well as those on the majority of coaches built in the 1970’s, is definitely plywood. There would be a covering of aluminum on the bottom; that portion exposed under the rig and on top of the frame rails. Yours originally came with carpeting in the living area of the coach along with possibly linoleum in the lavatory and galley areas. As long as the plywood underlayment is properly prepared and there is no water damage or dry rot, it is possible to refinish the floor with any of the materials you mention, or even tile in some cases. Proper preparation includes making sure each section of plywood is flush at the joints and all the screws or staples are fully seated and well below the level of the top of each sheet of plywood. Common wood filler may be used to close cracks and fill holes. A final sanding to make the floor as even as possible is yet another step in the process. Finally a clean sweep will have that old flooring ready for any type of top floor material you choose. Of course, if there is any evidence of water damage, that will have to be taken care of first.

Frustrating Fumes

When we park our motorhome outside all closed up, my wife and daughter both complain about a smell that burns their eyes and stuffs them up. It has a rubber roof and a slideout. I have washed the roof a couple of times to see if that helps. It seems to be worse on hot days. Any insight into this would be very welcome. Thank you for your help.
Alan, (Ann Arbor, MI) 

Alan, it is quite possible your wife and daughter are experiencing a case of formaldehyde irritation. Formaldehyde is often found in common products used during the manufacture of certain recreation vehicles. Because of its broad adhesive ability and high bonding qualities, formaldehyde is used in the production of pressed wood products, wallboard paneling, and possibly in some furniture and cabinet components. It can surely be a perplexing problem and a definite hindrance while trying to enjoy the RV lifestyle. Simply masking the odor with air fresheners or letting the coach "air out" will not usually eliminate the problem. There has been a rash of recent formaldehyde news of late.

The following steps (as provided by an RV manufacturer), will neutralize the effects of the formaldehyde contamination you are experiencing. Be sure to take the necessary precautions while performing the following procedures. It may be advisable to take your motorhome to a reputable RV service facility and have them perform these steps if your eyes and throat are easily irritated. The procedures outlined here involve the use of aqueous ammonia, more commonly known as ammonium hydroxide. This ammonia, while it will eliminate the formaldehyde problem, contains strong irritants that also affect your eyes, nose, and throat during the fumigation process. If you choose to do it yourself, be sure to wear a protective mask, eye protection and gloves while handling the ammonia. Also be sure to read the first aid instructions that come printed on the ammonia container. You will need approximately one gallon of ammonia.

• First, remove all plants, fish, animals, foodstuffs, etc., from the RV. I would also empty all the drawers, remove bedding and all cooking utensils just to be extra careful.

• Remove all the drawers and open all the cupboards and closet doors. You’ll want the ammonia to evaporate into all areas of the RV.

• Disconnect the motorhome from shore power, but leave the batteries connected. Turn off the LP at the container.

• Drain the fresh water tank.

• Turn the furnace thermostat all the way up so that the furnace fan runs continuously. There will be no heat since the LP container is closed, but the circulating air will aid in moving the ammonia to all areas of the RV. Make sure all furnace ducts are clear and open.

• Close all the exterior windows and roof vents tightly.

• Pour one-half gallon of the ammonia into two wide, but shallow plastic bowls. Be sure to wear the appropriate safety protection. Place the bowls on a flattened plastic garbage bag in each of the two areas of the coach.

• Allow the ammonia to stand and evaporate naturally for a minimum of 24-hours, then open all the windows, doors and vents to rid the coach of any residual ammonia smell.

• The remaining liquid in the plastic bowls can be safely poured down the sewer drain, since it is comprised mostly of water at this point.

• Refill the fresh water tank, reinstall all the drawers and stow your belongings.

There should be no residual formaldehyde present after this fumigation process and subsequent venting of the RV. It may be necessary, however, to daily vent the coach for a week or so to completely rid the RV of any leftover ammonia smell. This should effectively solve your problem.

Blind Faith

Our day/night blinds have broken threads. Is there a way to fix or rethread them or should we purchase new ones? Both living area blinds broke only days apart. We also have a musty smell and taste in our water. What could we do to correct this problem? Should we drain our fresh water? My husband has purchased a new filter. I just want to make sure there isn’t something we can do to sanitize the tank.
Pat, (Shingle Springs, CA)

You know Pat, I tried, once, to repair a broken string on those blinds; I simply did not have enough fingers or patience to finish the task. Perhaps one of the many RV outfitter companies can help you with those shades. They regularly handle such soft goods. I have to admit that if it does not have LP, water or current flowing through it, I’m out of my environment. 

As for the water system, you’ll indeed need to drain and flush that fresh water tank. You’ll also need to drain and flush the water heater. It’s not uncommon for odors to develop in the water heater when the anode rod deteriorates beyond 75% or so. Suburban and older American Appliance water heaters are equipped with an anode rod to combat electrolysis. Atwood uses a different type of inner tank material and therefore, does not require an anode.

You can sanitize the fresh water tank and fresh water system by adding regular household bleach to the contents of a full water tank. Simply add 1/4-cup of household bleach, (sodium hypochlorite solution), for every 15 gallons of capacity in the tank. The resultant chlorine concentration will be 50 parts per million (ppm). Pump this through the entire fresh water system; all hot and cold lines. Let the solution stand for a minimum of four hours. Then simply drain and refill the tank with fresh water.

Update! Since this question was published, other posts relating to the day/night blinds have surfaced. To read more about repairing broken blinds, see this post.

Shifty Dash Panel

I have a 2002 Holiday Rambler and I can smell the fumes from the generator that is mounted in the front of the coach. I removed the dash and found that there is a gap between the board under the dash and the front of coach which you can see down to the ground, the gap is about 3/4" in the front. What can I do to seal this? And should this board touch the front of the coach? It has a rubber seal around it.
Stan, (Aurora, CO)

Stan, it’s difficult to tell by your description, but it sounds as if the board has separated from the dash somehow. I would want a second opinion as to if the separation is a structural failure or a simple shifting of the panels. I’m curious about that rubber seal. If the panels have simply shifted creating the gap and no further movement is evident, you can seal that gap with canned spray foam available at any of the big box home repair stores. Make sure that you thoroughly mask the dash and any surrounding areas with tape before you spray. Also ensure you have plenty of ventilation during the repair. But first be sure other structural components are sound.