RV Waste System Plumbing Odors Under One Sink Only

I have two bathroom sinks in my coach. One with the commode and one next to the shower. The one in the hallway of the coach has a terrible smell. It is not all the time, but I cannot pin-point what is causing it. This has been going on for a few years now. I have poured the stuff that takes away smell down there and even used apple cider vinegar. Nothing seems to work. It is just that one drain.  Any suggestions? Kathy P. (Sioux Falls, SD)

Kathy, chances are you have a faulty anti-siphon trap vent device (ASTVD) under that sink. It’s a small ABS plastic fitting found near the P-traps under most RV sinks. Its purpose is to allow air into the drain system to help drain the sink, at the same time it prohibits gases and odors from coming in from the holding tank and drain piping. It is constructed with a spring-loaded rubber diaphragm. Oftentimes this rubber membrane will dry out and not fully seal against the rising odors out of the waste system. Other times, the spring simply wears out. If you look under your sink and follow the horizontal ABS piping as it leaves the P-trap, you’ll likely find the ASTVD situated a few inches above this horizontal arm. It’s a simple, screw-on fitting. In some cases, the rubber membrane can be renewed by applying a lubricating grease; I recommend Dow 111 grease. It’s a relatively inexpensive component and is easily replaced by any RV handyperson since it does not require any sealant and is only hand-tightened in place. They can be purchased or ordered through any RV parts department or even on-line.

Another thing to consider, especially if you need a little more room under those sinks, is to replace all the P-traps with a HepvO waterless sanitary valve. When using a HepvO valve, an ASTVD is not needed at all. Plus there is zero maintenance (no winterizing, cleaning, etc.), when using a HepvO valve. But one of the biggest benefits is the added storage space under the sinks. This is the route I highly recommend! Read all about the HepvO waterless sanitary valve.

Also, while we're on the topic, here are my recommended holding tank dumping procedures, which also mention the HepvO. 

And since I’m loading you up with websites, here’s a short video I did regarding the HepvO valve.

You’ll also find more helpful information at the new, Sweet Smelling Blog.

Hope this helps! At least it will keep you busy for a while!

Sway Control for Short Travel Trailers a Good Idea?

I am a newbie to RVing and I just purchased a used Prowler 22-foot travel trailer and I am towing it behind my F-250. My question is, do I need a sway bar? I am getting mixed messages mostly leaning towards not needing one. Tami W. (Granite Falls, WA)

Tami, I am a firm believer in both a weight distributing hitch AND a sway control when towing any travel trailer. Even with shorter trailers, you will find the addition of a sway control device to be beneficial. The hitch assembly is the most crucial connection between tow vehicle and trailer so it just makes good sense to have as much advantage at that connection as possible. You’ll no doubt hear others state it’s not needed on the shorter towables, but I can show you a bunch of photos of wrecked units that the owners wished they would have gone that little bit extra. Call it cheap insurance, (relatively speaking, of course), but it will certainly add to the safety margin. Also, be very sure all components within the hitch assembly, receiver, ball mount, spring bars, etc., are all rated for the loaded weight of the trailer, and that all parts are set-up properly. There are certain procedures for proper set-up and most are published on-line. But my number one rule is, never compromise the safety factor!  

RV Electrical; Home Receptacle Quandry

We are building a new home and the home builder refuses to put in a 30-amp connection; they will only put in a 20-amp or a 50-amp. I am having the 50-amp plug installed in my garage. On your website you mention the 50-amps at the park pedestal are two, 110-volt lines, (not 220-volts). I am not sure if my plug for my new home is 110 or 220-volts. Would I be able to still use the 50-amp plug, (I will need a 50-30 amp adapter), on my motorhome? I have a 35-foot Challenger motorhome. It has a 30-amp plug attached to the unit. Steve R. (no city/state)

Steve, I’m not sure why your contractor can’t install a dedicated 30-amp RV receptacle, (NEMA TT-30R), for your coach. Perhaps he's not aware of the RV 30-amp configuration? It's only used in the RV industry. A 50-amp motorhome will have two legs of 120-volts AC each; the coach circuits will be split between these two hot poles. Nothing in the RV (typically), is powered by 240-volts AC. The service is simply two separate circuits of 50-amps each, along with a shared neutral conductor and a ground wire. But if you take a voltage reading between the two hot poles, it will measure 240-volts AC.

If your guy can’t install a simple three-wire, 30-amp circuit, I’d be hesitant to have him install a four-wire, 50-amp circuit! It’s probably best to contact a local, licensed electrician who also understands recreation vehicles. 

Personally, I’d opt for a dedicated, 50-amp receptacle, (NEMA 14-50R), and like you suggested, use an adapter for your current motorhome. Better to be equipped for the higher current/larger conductors in case you were to ever upgrade your RV to one with 50-amp service. If you install only a 30-amp receptacle and then buy a new coach with 50-amp circuits, when you adapt the other way (30-50), through the adapter, you'll lose all the circuits on one of the hot legs inside the coach. Better to have the higher amperage receptacle and be set.

Leaky RV Window Can Cause Structural Damage

My husband and I own a 4-Winds Hurricane. When we first purchased it, pre-owned about five years ago, from an elderly neighborhood couple, we had not planned on it. It just kind of happened and we couldn't be happier. However, initially there was a little bubble in the fiberglass shell below the back bedroom windows. We were told that the windows were put in backwards and water had gotten in but the windows were corrected and no problems since. But over the last couple years, the bubbles have gotten bigger and where our pleated shade screws into the wall below the windows inside, they pulled loose. It is soft inside the holes and we fear we may have to replace the inside wall. What exactly is involved and what kind of money are we talking about? We love our RV and keep her immaculate. We want to keep her for many more years as she has given us such great memories. One especially...my mom died a couple years ago and I had the opportunity to take her camping and she loved it. She had never done anything like that in her life. So can it be fixed and can we save her? Angie L. (Trainer, PA)

Angie, it was so nice that you got to take your Mom RVing! You can forever know the joy you brought to her on that trip.

I'm a little confused about having the windows installed backwards; that's really not possible. Upside down, maybe, which would definitely result in a water leak. In any case, it is apparent moisture has invaded the interior walls. If indeed the window leaks have been stopped, it's possible only relatively minor repairs are required. But it will take an expert RV service technician to fully inspect and assess the resulting damage. Some of it may be hidden inside the wall. In minor cases, the delamination of the exterior surface will often cease once the leak is sealed. But if the interior paneling is weakened or rotted, the problem may be more severe. In most cases, the damage can be mitigated. How much it might cost is unknown until the inspection process is completed. I would definitely find a qualified service tech to fully inspect the damaged area. I do have an experienced, Master Certified RV Technician in your area I can refer you to; contact: 

Ron Donachie
Ron’s Mobile RV Services, Inc.
Serving Eastern Pennsylvania
484-225-8211
rondon@ptd.net

He'll come to your door and perform the necessary inspections and to assure all leaks have been eliminated.

Can I Convert a 2-way RV Refrigerator to a 3-way?

We just replaced our Dometic refrigerator with a new one. On our old refrigerator we had an aftermarket 3-way switch put in (AC, DC, Propane). That way we could run our fridge on DC while we drove. Now I am told I can only use propane or electric and the fridge is off during travel. I can't believe stuff stays cold enough. We often travel for several hours at a time. What is the problem with using DC while driving? The batteries charge while driving. Is it possible to put in an inverter? Edie T., (Kent, WA)

Edie, indeed, the two major manufacturers of RV refrigerators produce both 2-way (120-volts AC and propane) and 3-way models, which includes a 12-volt heater for operation while the vehicle is in motion. The 12-volt DC mode of operation, however, is considered a “maintenance mode” only. Realistically, the refrigerator’s interior compartments must already be cooled down and the food chilled prior to setting the unit to the 12-volt mode. It would take too much out of a typical battery system to cool a warm refrigerator down from scratch on battery power alone. In other words, the drain on the system would be a greater load than most battery systems could provide before becoming depleted. By the way, I’m not aware of an approved aftermarket kit for adding a 12-volt DC heating element to a standard 2-way refrigerator and would be quite hesitant about using one anyway. For correct absorption cooling operation, the sockets for the heating elements must be properly welded to the cooling core and this can only take place during manufacture.

Yes, you could add a dedicated inverter to power the refrigerator on 120-volt AC while driving, but that too, would require proper sizing of the battery bank. In my experience, simply getting the refrigerator (and the properly stowed food), as cold as possible on propane or shoreline power before heading out, and then avoiding opening the doors during the day, will usually keep everything cold enough until you can fire up one of the other modes once you stop for the night. The frozen T-bones and lobster tails should not defrost during that time. Of course, even a 2-way refrigerator is designed to be operated on propane while driving down the road if you are in that camp, (check out this related question).

If you really must have the refrigerator on while driving, but aren’t confident using propane while going down the road, then the addition of an inverter and a healthier battery bank might be the most economical option; certainly less than swapping out the refrigerator again for a 3-way unit. I'm curious as to why the dealer simply didn't sell you a 3-way model to begin with...

RV Storage Question from Down Under

We live in Australia but own a 30-foot, C Class motorhome in the USA and come over every 12-18 months to travel around, usually for around 2 months at a time. When we aren't using the motorhome we store it at a friend's house just outside of Las Vegas and we have heard conflicting opinions of late as to whether or not we should keep a cover over the motorhome while it is stored because of the heat. It is open to the elements, although it is parked between the garage and 6-foot high fence so it does have some protection. We currently have it covered with an ADCO RV cover and it is one recommended for use against extreme temperatures. We also have tyre guards on all wheels. Could you please give us your opinion regarding whether or not you feel that our motorhome should be covered or not while not in use. Thanks. Noel & Pam W. (Ipswich, Australia)

By all means, I do recommend a total coach cover during lengthy periods of downtime, Noel and Pam, especially in a climate like Las Vegas. The ADCO cover is probably your best bet, though I’ve not personally tested their products. They do seem to get high marks from other RVers, however. It’s probably also wise to keep one roof vent opened a little, even under the cover. And a window slightly opened at the opposite end of the coach. This will allow for a little free-flowing convection air movement through the coach.

Protecting the tires is paramount and keeping them covered is a good idea. UV and ozone are two of the killers of RV tires. Realize that, even though not used extensively, the tires will probably only last 5-7 years, regardless of how the tread looks. RV tires usually do not wear out, they typically age out.

But overall, you’re probably doing the best by keeping the coach covered while you’re away.  

Tankless RV Water Heater - Redux

I saw your comments about the tankless water heater. Five years ago I seriously considered getting one. I was going to replace my 10-gallon with a 5-gallon. I was floored when I saw the price of the unit. It was almost 3 times the price of the gas-electric-engine assist water heater I ended up getting. I figured I could buy a hell of a lot of propane with the price difference. You should have mentioned that fact to your readers. Most of the time I use the 110 volt feature and while traveling the engine gives what I need. When I boondock I just turn on the gas switch before I take a shower. Wilson S. (no city/state)

And a related question: 

I enjoyed your article on the tankless water system but it would be nice to know how much they cost and the approximate installation expense. Bob W. (Jacksonville, FL)

Wilson and Bob, as a general policy, I do not mention prices of the products we test and review; here’s why. With Internet shopping, plus varying retail levels at RV dealerships, stand-alone service centers, big box stores and discount warehouses, it would be impossible to establish an accurate price across the board. Even using a supplier’s “suggested retail price” is rarely accurate since some dealers will opt to take less of a profit margin just to make a sale. If I quoted any retail cost, someone will likely find it cheaper somewhere else. It really serves no purpose since it’s up to the buying public to actually set the selling price at the retail level. Due diligence and keen buyer awareness go much further than any dollar amount mentioned in an article. At least every retail outlet is on equal footing at that point.

But I hear ya! You have to weigh the cost vs. practicality in many instances. Not to defend the price of a tankless water heater, but it’s not just the cost of propane that fits into the formula. Less weight prolongs the life of RV tires, suspension components, etc. No tank eliminates maintenance costs. How far, how often you travel factors in, as does convenience. Some families might run out of hot water frequently if traveling extensively or living full-time in an RV. Endless hot water on demand just might be worth the extra cost for a family. Retail purchases, therefore, can be a very subjective decision. One of the great things about the RV industry! At least now you know why I don’t list prices in my product reviews!  

Bob, the RV-500 that I installed was not a typical RV installation, but when replacing a standard RV propane water heater with the RV-500, the installation should probably take a certified technician no more than about two hours to install at the most. It all depends on how much alteration of the cut-out opening is necessary (if any). If replacing an electronic water heater, the 12-volt wiring should already be present. The propane gas line will likely need to be rerouted slightly as well. But that too, is already in the general vicinity.

I would suggest you download the installation instructions and take them to your local RV service shop. They’ll be able to provide you with a more accurate estimate after they read through the instructions and inspect your coach.  

RV Batteries Go Dead, Even While Plugged Into Shore Power

What runs off the electrical when you're at an RV park? Been here two days and last night my lights dimmed to nothing and the water pump quit. I switched the fridge over to propane just to be safe. The clock on the microwave still works though. I'm here for another 5 days! I started the RV and it gave the lights a big boost and the pump worked again. But only lasted a short time after shutting the engine off. Why did this happen? It's the first time it ever happened. Are my auxiliary batteries dead because they're brand new? And I thought once you plugged the RV into the park power, the auxiliary batteries weren't in use! I'm confused here. How does this all work? Please help. Kelly, (Fenelon Falls, ONT)

When plugged into shore power at the campground, presumably the AC to DC converter will charge the auxiliary battery bank. All the lamps, fans, water pump, etc., still operate on 12-volts DC, just that the DC electricity is provided by the converter instead of the batteries while plugged in. If the converter charging module (or the breaker for the converter), is turned off, or if you have some type of battery disconnect solenoid engaged, the batteries will not be able to receive a charge. Your microwave, by the way, is powered by 120-volts AC only; which is why the clock still works.

The fact that the lights got brighter when you started the engine is an indication that the batteries are indeed very low, if not completely dead. The engine alternator was simply providing the DC voltage while the engine was running. Regardless of the brand of motorhome, the brand and type of converter/charger installed and whether or not any disconnect devices are employed, it’s obvious the batteries are not receiving a charge while the coach is plugged in to shore power.

If you can measure an increase in DC voltage at the battery bank when the coach is plugged in, then the battery charge circuit is at least complete and probably working. If the voltage does not go up when plugged in, look for a blown fuse in the charge circuit in the converter/charger. Look also for any electronic disconnect switches that totally isolate the battery system. It’s common on some coaches to employ these during storage or a lengthy downtime. If they are activated while using the coach, it literally takes the batteries out of the system, meaning you cannot charge or discharge them.

Another cause would be an open conductor (broken wire) between the converter and the battery bank. Any type of break in that circuit would result in the same symptom. A high degree of oxidation or corrosion on the battery posts (both positive and negative posts), can also prohibit the batteries from being charged. Be sure the battery terminals are clean, dry and tight and check the ground connection at the frame from the negative terminal on the battery bank. Any open in the charging circuit could prohibit the converter from charging the bank. The last item to have tested, are the batteries themselves. A carbon-pile load test will determine the health of the batteries if everything else checks out.

RV Travel Trailer Tires - US vs. Imports

I have a question and I'm hoping that you can answer it. Why can't I find a trailer (ST) tire that is not made in China? I know that some US made ST tires can still have a problem of holding up to the task but I'm sure we all know the Chinese made tires are not very good at all, I know this from some bad experience running on them plus their was a major recall on Chinese made tires not too long ago. I know that I would shell out some more dollars for a safer tire, wouldn't you? Michael J. (San Diego, CA)

Michael, since specialty tires are seemingly always a hot topic in the RV realm, I posed your question to Walter Cannon, the Executive Director of the RVSEF, (RV Safety & Education Foundation). Walter is the leading expert concerning tires, weights and RVs. Here's his response:

My best suggestion is to try Goodyear, Marathon or Carlisle tires. These companies make ST tires but you might want to verify that they are indeed made in the U.S. Depending on the exact tire size, some trailer manufacturers are opting for LT tires which are more widely available. Should you have any more questions, please let me know. Walter Cannon.

Gary's Note: Walter can be reached at staff@rvsafety.com.

 

Surprise Blockage in RV Holding Tank Drain!

How do I retrieve a toilet cleaning brush, approximately 14-inches long, from the toilet-to-holding tank sewer pipe? The brush fell down the toilet and appears to have wedged inside the pipe causing clogging which fills up the pipe. Very little waste is making it to the holding tank. The pipe length from the bottom of the toilet to the entry to the holding tank is approximately two feet and has a 45-degree angle. Help! Robert H. (Santee, CA)

Robert, it's literally impossible for that cleaning brush to ever get past that first 45-degree elbow in the toilet drain. In this instance, it's actually a good thing your toilet drain has that bend in it. If it was a straight drop from the toilet into the holding tank, it would be more difficult retrieving it from the holding tank itself. 

You'll simply have to cut through the 3-inch ABS drain pipe a few inches above or below the uppermost 45-degree elbow fitting. You may have to sacrifice the brush itself in doing so, but chances are you wouldn't be using that brush again anyway! Depending on how easy it is to flex either the upper or lower section of the drain pipe after the first cut, it may also be necessary to make an additional cut in the ABS piping on the opposite side of the elbow. Making two cuts will enable you to remove that section with the brush completely and then, easily remove and discard it.

Then simply cement two, 3-inch ABS couplers to reconnect the toilet drain piping. It may be difficult to install the 2nd coupling if there's not much give to the drain pipes. If that is the case, it may be easier to install a Calder-style coupler (see photo), instead of a glued-in fitting. A worst-case situation may mandate removing toilet and floor flange in order to reassemble all the pieces correctly.

It's amazing what gets dropped down the toilet and into the holding tank; none of which is a good thing. As you found out, it definitely causes blockage issues. Check out this blog post by my friends at Drain Master! I even had one reader wonder how to remove a set of dentures from the solid waste holding tank! Yikes! 

RV Inverter Replacement

I suspect I may have to replace my inverter/charger.  I know you recommend a seperate Xantrex battery charger. But do you have a recommendation for a inverter to pair with the charger? John M. (Ft. Collins, CO)

John, I’d certainly stick with Xantrex when it comes to an inverter. Be sure it is sized appropriately for your demands. You may want to upgrade to a larger output in case you opt to add loads to the system at a later date. I always recommend a true sine wave inverter, but then again, I’m not subsidizing the expenditure! Use your own judgment, but sticking with Xantrex is your best bet, in my opinion.

Keep in mind, depending on the inverter model you choose, it may come equipped with the same charging technology as the Truecharge2 battery charger you mention. So there would be no need to purchase both an inverter and a battery charger. The inverter itself becomes the battery charger whenever 120-volts AC is available (generator or shore power).  Do some investigating here first.

My question is what makes you think you may have to replace your existing inverter/charger? Be sure it was diagnosed correctly before replacing it.
 

RV Television Swap

My husband and I are total "newbies" and my question will probably sound stupid to veteran RVers. The two TVs in our fifth wheel (probably original equipment) are dual voltage, (12/120). I know that means they can work when hooked up at a campground or on battery power from the "house" batteries if not connected to "shore" power. We'd like to replace them. Can we just use an ordinary TV or is there something different about the electric outlets/wiring/breakers in the RV that could ruin a new TV? Or does it just mean that the new TVs won't work unless we're connected to a campground power source?  Sue L. (Ludlow, VT)

Never a stupid question Sue! But you nailed it; a 120-volt AC (only) television will only operate whenever the shore cord is plugged in. Unless, of course, you have a generator or an inverter on your 5th wheel. Both of which can be installed at any reputable RV service facility, by the way. All the receptacles and circuit breakers in the coach are 120-volt AC, similar to what you are accustomed to in a residential home. By swapping out the TVs, you lose the ability to watch while dry camping without hookups. But you can always add an inverter if that's too much of a burden.