I think your best bet would be a 12-volt evaporative cooler (swamp cooler), instead of an air conditioner. Roof mounted, the evaporative cooler is lightweight and is powered by the 12-volt battery system. It would be the perfect alternative to installing a generator and small roof air conditioner and the associated AC electrical system. Though I've not installed this particular brand before, here's one that would certainly qualify as a potential consideration.
Thursday, October 28, 2010
RV Air Condtioner Alternative
I think your best bet would be a 12-volt evaporative cooler (swamp cooler), instead of an air conditioner. Roof mounted, the evaporative cooler is lightweight and is powered by the 12-volt battery system. It would be the perfect alternative to installing a generator and small roof air conditioner and the associated AC electrical system. Though I've not installed this particular brand before, here's one that would certainly qualify as a potential consideration.
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Nitrogen for Motorhome Tires
If you know where you are now and where you’re headed, you should be able to locate one near you relatively easily.
Thursday, October 21, 2010
Monoethanolamine for RVs?
MEA is used in aqueous solutions for scrubbing certain acidic gases or deposits. It is used as feedstock in the production of detergents, emulsifiers, polishes, pharmaceuticals, corrosion inhibitors, chemical intermediates. For example, reacting ethanolamine with ammonia gives the commonly used chelating agent, ethylenediamine.
So that should clear up any confusion you may have! Actually, now I’m even confused! The bottom line, it’s an organic cleaning compound that will not harm EPDM rubber roofs on RVs and is good at removing the harshest of stains, bird droppings and tree sap. It’s usually used in the production of cleaning agents aimed directly at those stains. Here’s what it looks like chemically:
And just so you don’t think I’m that smart....I found this info on Wikipedia...
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
RV Toilet: Chemical or Marine?
Friday, October 15, 2010
Motorhome Wall Thermostat Needed
Denny, (Healdton, OK)
It sounds like you have a RVP heat pump system Denny. The part number for the single zone thermostat is 8530-3451. If your unit is for multiple zones, that is; if you have separate heating and/or cooling areas in the coach controlled from a single wall thermostat, the part number is 8330-3351. I’m surprised the dealers you contacted had trouble finding this information. Just about any RV service center, and especially a Winnebago dealer, should be able to order this unit for you. In terms of Camping World, you would have to contact your two local outlets and inquire as to whether they carry or can order these items by part number. But just to let you know, I could not find any reference to them on their website. But don’t be thrown off by the 8-wires. Chances are only six of them are actually being used. By the way, the high and low speed wires are colored green and gray respectively, so going to a 6-wire thermostat should not affect the speed options. Many RVers have switched to electronic Hunter or Honeywell thermostats among others, but I’ve always been an OEM kind of guy myself, so like you, I’d go for the appropriate RVP thermostat.
Monday, October 11, 2010
Cracked Up RV Window
Unfortunately Gail, in most cases, yes, the complete window assembly will have to be removed, then disassembled in order to replace the broken glass in that lower section. But, it certainly isn’t a huge deal to remove and reinstall the window, but it will take two or three people depending on the size of the window.
Typically, the window sandwiches the wall between the outer frame and a piece of garnish trim around the perimeter, located inside the RV. In the photo, you can see the trim piece and the mounting screws. Begin by removing all the screws from around the garnish trim piece and place the trim aside. Next, carefully insert a wide blade putty knife under the exterior flange of the window to break the seal of the existing sealant. Have someone support the window from the outside as you gently push from the inside. At this point, all that is holding the window in place is the sealant around the perimeter of the exterior. Work the wide putty knife around the frame as you carefully push the window out of the opening through the sidewall.
Once removed, clean off all the remnants of butyl caulk or sealant from around the window flange and what may be left around the opening in the sidewall. Always use fresh new sealant when reinstalling the window. Once the window is out and cleaned off, it can be disassembled.
Depending on the brand of the window, somewhere around the perimeter of the frame, you should find a joining strip where the two ends of the formed frame come together. It is probably secured with rivets or screws. Either way, it will have to be taken apart in order to remove the rest of the broken glass. Or better yet, take the entire window assembly, in one piece, to the glass shop and have them do the disassembling and reassembling of the window itself. They’ll be able to seal the window properly within its frame also. You’ll only have to seal against leaks as you reinstall the window back into the RV. I recommend Eternabond double-stick tape when reinstalling the window into the motorhome. The Eternabond tape will help hold the window in place as you reinstall it, as well as seal it, but you should still have someone helping as you put it back in place.
From the outside, be sure there are no gaps anywhere around the perimeter of the window after all the screws through the garnish have been reinstalled. It may be necessary to install new screws, one size larger, if any appear to strip as you tighten them. Next, inspect the entire outside perimeter of the window. If any gaps exist between the window and the sidewall, water will have an entrance; and that is the biggest threat to guard against. In some cases, a double layer of sealing tape is required to ensure no gaps remain. If necessary, use a thin bead of silicone sealant along the top edge of the window just to be sure.
The bottom line is that you, most assuredly, do not want any water intrusion. It is also recommended to install new vinyl-backed foam tape on the inside flange of the garnish trim. It should also fully compress when you tighten the mounting screws, thereby effectuating a tight vapor seal. And that should do it! Keep in mind, if this appears too daunting for you, any number of local RV shops would be more than happy to perform the removal and reinstallation of the window for you.
rvt737
Thursday, October 7, 2010
Rubber or Wax RV Toilet Seal?
Ed, I recommend a rubber seal instead of the wax ring type of seal; here's why. During the hot summer months, it’s possible the toilet mounting can become loosened as the wax ring softens. Re-tightening the toilet mounting bolts will help, but the thickness of the wax seal will be greatly reduced with each tightening. With a rubber foam seal, simply slip it over what you call the plastic horn on the bottom of the toilet. If you just place it on the floor flange it’s likely to become dislodged while lowering the toilet into place over the closet bolts. It should easily stay attached to the bottom of the toilet as you lower it into place.
However, I have seen some rubber flange seals constructed large enough to actually slip over the flange bolts and stay centered on the flange itself. In this case, the bolts can hold the seal in place as you lower the toilet. But to be safe, I recommend the rubber seals that actually fit between the flange bolts and attach to the toilet. Just my preference, however; your mileage may vary!
Disclaimer:
In all instances, every effort is made to ensure the correctness of all content on the RV Doctor Website. It is imperative that if you choose to follow any instructions or procedures outlined on any page of this website, you must first satisfy yourself thoroughly that neither personal nor product safety will be compromised or jeopardized.
All rights reserved.
If you are in doubt or do not feel comfortable about a procedure, do not continue. Simply call your local RV service facility and make an appointment with them. The advice, recommendations and procedures offered by the RV Doctor are solely those of Gary. They do not necessarily reflect the opinions, procedures and recommendations of our sponsors or advertisers.







