RV Air Condtioner Alternative

I have an 1978 GMC van that was converted to a camper by the original owner back in the 80's. We travel everywhere with our dogs and in the summer having the dogs in a hot van is a big issue. We can run the van's dash air conditioning when the engine is running, but how do we keep cool when we are stopped somewhere? My thoughts so far are pointing me towards a bumper-mounted generator powering a window A/C unit to keep the van cool when we can't take the dogs indoors like in a restaurant. I was wondering if you had any alternative ideas? Nick (Charleston, SC)

Nick, if I were to recommend a generator installation, it would obviously have to be an approved installation which would eliminate mounting it on the bumper. RV generators must be mounted inside a specifically constructed box to a rigid set of parameters. It is indeed doable in a van if you have the room, however, it can become costly when you consider the installation of a 120-volt AC system in addition. 

I think your best bet would be a 12-volt evaporative cooler (swamp cooler), instead of an air conditioner. Roof mounted, the evaporative cooler is lightweight and is powered by the 12-volt battery system. It would be the perfect alternative to installing a generator and small roof air conditioner and the associated AC electrical system. Though I've not installed this particular brand before, here's one that would certainly qualify as a potential consideration.

The downside is that an evaporative-type cooler works best in low humidity areas. It's less effective the higher the humidity, but still, it remains a viable alternative to keeping your dogs safe.

The RV Doctor Interviewed by RV Buddies - Part 1

Mark Summers from RV Buddies interviews Gary at the PRVCA Hershey Show!







Plus, take a look at RV Buddies brand new website!

Nitrogen for Motorhome Tires

Hi, we love your web site but have one question. We are using nitrogen in our motorhome tires but have trouble finding places where we can get it to fill up the coach or the car. Is there any way we can find a place online that will list the tire centers that have nitrogen for motorhomes? S&S (On the road) 

Sandy and Sonny, though I'm not aware of any published listing of nitrogen dealers, there is a website that has a Dealer Locator by zip code. Check out this site. 

If you look to lower right-hand side of this page you’ll see a “Dealer Locator” box. Simply type in the zip code and it will reveal the closest location for a nitrogen dispensing dealer. I found 48 different locations within 100 miles of my own zip code. 

If you know where you are now and where you’re headed, you should be able to locate one near you relatively easily.

Monoethanolamine for RVs?

I read an article on cleaning the RV roofing. They used this word, (Monoethalomine); good for the removal of tree sap and berry stains. This word does not exist. Would you know the correct spelling or what this product actually is? Barbara (Alpharetta, GA)

Barbara, Monoethanolamine (MEA), is a real word and it is produced by combining ethylene oxide with aqueous ammonia. The reaction also produces diethanolamine and triethanolamine. The ratio of the products can be controlled by changing the stoichiometry of the reactants. Note that this reaction is exothermic and that controls are needed to prevent a runaway reaction.

MEA is used in aqueous solutions for scrubbing certain acidic gases or deposits. It is used as feedstock in the production of detergents, emulsifiers, polishes, pharmaceuticals, corrosion inhibitors, chemical intermediates. For example, reacting ethanolamine with ammonia gives the commonly used chelating agent, ethylenediamine.

So that should clear up any confusion you may have! Actually, now I’m even confused! The bottom line, it’s an organic cleaning compound that will not harm EPDM rubber roofs on RVs and is good at removing the harshest of stains, bird droppings and tree sap. It’s usually used in the production of cleaning agents aimed directly at those stains. Here’s what it looks like chemically:

 And just so you don’t think I’m that smart....I found this info on Wikipedia...  

RV Toilet: Chemical or Marine?

My wife and I enjoyed your sessions at Hershey, PA again this year.  This is the second year that we have attended.  Anyway, to my problem.  Re: Chemical toilet - It has been working just fine then all at once I notice the seal at the knife shut off is off-center by about 1/4 inch. It still seals and holds water fine but I think it should be corrected. Should I mess with it? Gary, (PA) 

Gary, are you sure you have a chemical toilet? Also known as a recirculating toilet? They  do not have a water seal in the bowl. But if you’re talking about a typical RV, marine toilet, they do. It would help if you had the make and model number, but I feel seal replacements are doable by the diligent RV handyperson. It’s a tedious task and not-so-pleasant, but it can indeed extend the life of the toilet and ensure proper maintenance is maintained (pardon the redundancy!). All replacement parts kits from the established toilet manufacturer’s will come with detailed installation instructions which should be all the help you’ll need. If you send me the brand and model number I’ll search through my files for other info that might help.  

Motorhome Wall Thermostat Needed

I need to locate a wall thermostat for my heating/air conditioning unit in a Winnebago. The thermostat has eight wires on it and the switch to turn the heat on is non-functioning. The only replacement thermostats I can find through six different dealers have fewer wires. My club chapter has an electrician in the group and we have traced the problem to the switch on the circuit board. If I hold a contact between the hot wire and power out of the switch till the time delay fuse activates the heater works fine till it hits the level the thermostat is set and turns off, then I have to do the process again to activate. Camping World's two locations near me have not been helpful but say they can wire a 4-wire thermostat or 6-wire thermostat to it but it will affect the Hi/Lo fan speeds. This doesn't make sense to me. I want the original replacement. The circuit board is printed "Watsco" with all eight wires soldered into slots marked for the eight colors of wire. Tell me where to find this thermostat please.
Denny, (Healdton, OK)

It sounds like you have a RVP heat pump system Denny. The part number for the single zone thermostat is 8530-3451. If your unit is for multiple zones, that is; if you have separate heating and/or cooling areas in the coach controlled from a single wall thermostat, the part number is 8330-3351. I’m surprised the dealers you contacted had trouble finding this information. Just about any RV service center, and especially a Winnebago dealer, should be able to order this unit for you. In terms of Camping World, you would have to contact your two local outlets and inquire as to whether they carry or can order these items by part number. But just to let you know, I could not find any reference to them on their website. But don’t be thrown off by the 8-wires. Chances are only six of them are actually being used. By the way, the high and low speed wires are colored green and gray respectively, so going to a 6-wire thermostat should not affect the speed options. Many RVers have switched to electronic Hunter or Honeywell thermostats among others, but I’ve always been an OEM kind of guy myself, so like you, I’d go for the appropriate RVP thermostat.

Cracked Up RV Window

My living room window was broken when our deck table fell through it during a storm. Do you have to take the whole window out to fix it? It was the bottom window portion that broke.
Gail, (Sebring, FL)

Unfortunately Gail, in most cases, yes, the complete window assembly will have to be removed, then disassembled in order to replace the broken glass in that lower section. But, it certainly isn’t a huge deal to remove and reinstall the window, but it will take two or three people depending on the size of the window. Typically, the window sandwiches the wall between the outer frame and a piece of garnish trim around the perimeter, located inside the RV. In the photo, you can see the trim piece and the mounting screws. Begin by removing all the screws from around the garnish trim piece and place the trim aside. Next, carefully insert a wide blade putty knife under the exterior flange of the window to break the seal of the existing sealant. Have someone support the window from the outside as you gently push from the inside. At this point, all that is holding the window in place is the sealant around the perimeter of the exterior. Work the wide putty knife around the frame as you carefully push the window out of the opening through the sidewall.

Once removed, clean off all the remnants of butyl caulk or sealant from around the window flange and what may be left around the opening in the sidewall. Always use fresh new sealant when reinstalling the window. Once the window is out and cleaned off, it can be disassembled.

Depending on the brand of the window, somewhere around the perimeter of the frame, you should find a joining strip where the two ends of the formed frame come together. It is probably secured with rivets or screws. Either way, it will have to be taken apart in order to remove the rest of the broken glass. Or better yet, take the entire window assembly, in one piece, to the glass shop and have them do the disassembling and reassembling of the window itself. They’ll be able to seal the window properly within its frame also. You’ll only have to seal against leaks as you reinstall the window back into the RV. I recommend Eternabond double-stick tape when reinstalling the window into the motorhome. The Eternabond tape will help hold the window in place as you reinstall it, as well as seal it, but you should still have someone helping as you put it back in place.

From the outside, be sure there are no gaps anywhere around the perimeter of the window after all the screws through the garnish have been reinstalled. It may be necessary to install new screws, one size larger, if any appear to strip as you tighten them. Next, inspect the entire outside perimeter of the window. If any gaps exist between the window and the sidewall, water will have an entrance; and that is the biggest threat to guard against. In some cases, a double layer of sealing tape is required to ensure no gaps remain. If necessary, use a thin bead of silicone sealant along the top edge of the window just to be sure. The bottom line is that you, most assuredly, do not want any water intrusion. It is also recommended to install new vinyl-backed foam tape on the inside flange of the garnish trim. It should also fully compress when you tighten the mounting screws, thereby effectuating a tight vapor seal. And that should do it! Keep in mind, if this appears too daunting for you, any number of local RV shops would be more than happy to perform the removal and reinstallation of the window for you.

Rubber or Wax RV Toilet Seal?

I am replacing the closet flange seal under the toilet in my coach. I need to know the way the seal goes in. Does it sit in the flange ring on the floor? Or do you first fit it around the toilet horn? The old seal was just sitting on top of the floor. Is that the right way? Should I use a wax seal? Ed, (West Valley City, UT) 

Ed, I recommend a rubber seal instead of the wax ring type of seal; here's why. During the hot summer months, it’s possible the toilet mounting can become loosened as the wax ring softens. Re-tightening the toilet mounting bolts will help, but the thickness of the wax seal will be greatly reduced with each tightening. With a rubber foam seal, simply slip it over what you call the plastic horn on the bottom of the toilet. If you just place it on the floor flange it’s likely to become dislodged while lowering the toilet into place over the closet bolts. It should easily stay attached to the bottom of the toilet as you lower it into place. 

However, I have seen some rubber flange seals constructed large enough to actually slip over the flange bolts and stay centered on the flange itself. In this case, the bolts can hold the seal in place as you lower the toilet. But to be safe, I recommend the rubber seals that actually fit between the flange bolts and attach to the toilet. Just my preference, however; your mileage may vary!