Powered by Blogger.
We are saddened to announce the passing of Gary Bunzer on April 17, 2020. We hope the RV Doctor website will continue to provide helpful information for you. Thank you for your interest and support for the RV Doctor - Debbie, Heather and Gretchen

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Emergency Start Switch

My emergency start switch is not working on my Fleetwood motorhome. Can you provide trouble shooting steps?
Ron, (Endicott, NY)

Ron, in many cases, the emergency start switch on a motorhome is nothing more than a momentary dash switch wired to a simple solenoid like those pictured here. On that solenoid you’ll find two large lugs. Each battery system on the motorhome is connected directly to these with large battery cable. The auxiliary battery positive cable connects to one side; the engine battery positive connects to the other. The solenoid will also have one or two smaller terminals. If yours has one small terminal, this terminal is wired to the dash switch and the casing of the solenoid must be grounded to the frame of the motorhome by using one of the two mounting bracket holes. If yours has two small terminals, one is ground, the other goes to the dash switch. With DC, it really doesn’t matter which of the two smaller terminals is which. When activated, the solenoid closes and sends auxiliary battery voltage through the solenoid to the engine battery cable, thereby connecting both battery systems into one big battery and hopefully providing enough voltage to crank the engine.

To bench test an emergency start solenoid you’ll need a VOM and a battery source. Connect the VOM leads to the two large lugs with the meter set to the Ohm’s scale or the continuity scale. The meter should show infinity. Next, apply positive 12-volts DC to one of the smaller terminals on the solenoid and negative 12-volts (ground) to the other. If the solenoid only has a single small terminal, attach the ground wire of the 12-volt source to the mounting bracket. When voltage is applied you should hear an audible click as the internal magnet closes the contacts. Also, the reading should indicate “0” on the meter. The 0-ohms reading is important; you may hear a click, but if you do not have continuity through the contacts, the solenoid is still faulty. If no reading is indicated the solenoid has an “open.” If you read 0-ohms with no voltage applied, the solenoid is “shorted.” A short may also exist between any battery terminal and the casing itself. In either case the solenoid should be replaced. If your coach is equipped with a larger, heavy-duty solenoid like the one pictured here, the testing procedures are the same.

Disclaimer:

In all instances, every effort is made to ensure the correctness of all content on the RV Doctor Website. It is imperative that if you choose to follow any instructions or procedures outlined on any page of this website, you must first satisfy yourself thoroughly that neither personal nor product safety will be compromised or jeopardized.

All rights reserved.

If you are in doubt or do not feel comfortable about a procedure, do not continue. Simply call your local RV service facility and make an appointment with them. The advice, recommendations and procedures offered by the RV Doctor are solely those of Gary. They do not necessarily reflect the opinions, procedures and recommendations of our sponsors or advertisers.