Some Do’s and Don’ts
By Gary
Bunzer
As we inch closer
to fall, memories of our summer RVing excursions may still linger in our minds.
But with the coming chill, also comes the thought of putting our faithful RV
into storage mode. Though seemingly a mundane task, there is a correct
methodology for getting your coach ready for any period of non-use; especially
if you are contemplating utilizing one of the available private or public
storage facilities. Certain precautions, correctly applied, will guarantee your
coach will stand a better chance of surviving its secluded hibernation.
RV Storage Locations
Everything from a
vacant dirt lot to an indoor five-star, temperature-controlled facility can be
considered for parking your rig for any period of non-use. When deciding which
level of sophistication, (and subsequent degree of expense) to evaluate, the
primary concern should always be the overall security and welfare of your RV. A
nicely paved, inexpensive level lot behind a locked gate might sound appealing,
but if its location is remote, it might not be a wise choice. A isolated
location might be susceptible to vandals or break-ins. Do your homework when
considering such a location.
Also, it’s best to
avoid non-paved or non-concreted areas like a grassy or dirt field, even at
home. Critters of all types can be invasive in and around an inactive RV.
Additionally, dusty or dirty locations will simply equate to more preventive
maintenance requirements at some point. Areas of high winds should also be
avoided, especially if a total coach cover is employed. Flapping covers can
damage the roofing material and the finish on the sidewalls if care is not
taken.
A facility
designed especially for RV and marine vehicles is preferred, especially if it
comes with built-in security precautions. An on-site security guard is a big
plus, but strategically mounted security cameras are also a good thing to look
for in a suitable site. Well-designed facilities will also have plenty of room
between coaches to access storage compartments, generator and appliance access
doors, the roof ladder and the entry door.
Though more
expensive, indoor facilities provide the best environment for your dormant RV.
Out of the weather, out of the sun and away from ozone bombardment are
advantages that will go a long way in preserving your coach.
All RV storage
facilities will come with some type of a contract, so be sure to read every
word as well as the “fine print” twice! Be sure you understand exactly what you
are agreeing to! Ask every question before signing on the dotted line.
Call your
insurance company and inquire if they have any restrictions, suggestions or
comments regarding the facility you are considering. See if you can suspend
portions of your benefits during the period of non-use. Not having to pay for
collision coverage, for example, will save a few dollars on your premium.
Once you’ve made
an informed decision as to where your coach will be stored, next it’s time to
prepare the coach for its induced hibernation. Be sure to remove all remnants
of food from within the RV. As mentioned previously, you certainly don’t want
it to appear inviting to the critters! All invasive animals and insects require
three things in order to take up residence in your vacated vacation vehicle; food,
water and entry. Eliminate any one and your RV is much better off.
Preparing the RV
Since a recreation vehicle is simply a house on wheels, there are certain precautions that must be taken whenever contemplating the thought of putting the rig into storage for any lengthy period of non-use, including over the course of a cold winter season. Each of the major systems requires attention; some fairly detailed. To read an in-depth account of the recommended preventive winterizing steps, check out this article. If the downtime will be outdoors, I also recommend cutting cardboard inserts to position inside the water heater and refrigerator exterior access panels to keep the dust and dirt accumulation to a minimum. Cover the furnace intake and exhaust assemblies with blue painter’s tape to keep insects from entering.
Thoroughly inspect
the underneath portions of the RV. Look closely for any cracks or openings into
the floor or interior of the coach. Seal around drain piping, propane tubing
and electrical harnesses that extend through the floor into the living areas of
the coach.
If the rig is parked on
asphalt, use non-absorbing, synthetic blocks under the footprints of the tires.
If stored outdoors, cover the tires to minimize UV and ozone contamination and
obscure the windows to avoid sun damage and the fading of fabrics. In high
moisture locales, place absorbent desiccant inside the two major living
sections of the RV.
Consider using a
total coach cover, but take precautions to keep the cover from rubbing on the
roof or at the edges. This can be damaging to synthetic roofing materials such
as EPDM rubber or TPO. At the very least, it’s a wise decision to install a
rooftop air conditioner cover if a coach cover is not used.
If possible, leave
a roof vent cracked open slightly at one end of the RV and a window cracked
open at the opposite end. This will induce a bit of convection airflow inside
the coach to minimize the progression of mold and mildew.
Check all window,
roof vents and door seals and weather-stripping. As I often mention, moisture
intrusion is the biggest cause of RV damage. Also, treat all exposed exterior
surfaces with the appropriate protectant.
Periodic Visitation
When possible,
visit your hibernating rolling home from time to time; especially if the period
of non-use extends past just a few weeks. It’s a wise RVer who changes the
position of the RV at least once a month, moving it forward or backwards
slightly, to alter the footprint of the tires to prevent flat spots from
developing. Just a foot or two is usually all that is required.
It is also
recommended to periodically start a gasoline motorhome engine and to exercise a
gasoline generator, when so equipped. Consult the owner’s manual for your make
of chassis and generator for specific instructions, but the general consensus
is to run the generator for a couple hours at half-load, at least once a month,
in order to prohibit varnishing of the fuel. One single two-hour run at
half-load is much better than a bunch of short runs. Diesel powered RVs and
generators will likely require different procedures, so be sure to follow the
recommendations of the manufacturer to avoid performance issues when it’s time
to awaken your resting rig from its respite.
Once a month,
carefully inspect the roof for entry points of water intrusion if a total coach
cover is not employed. Always perform roof repairs as soon as leaks are
discovered. Do not wait until you remove the coach from storage! Any damage
will only get worse over time.
When it is time to remove your RV from storage,
always consult with the facility manager to absolve any dispute or damage issue
possibly incurred during the storage period before moving the RV. Be sure to
re-activate your full insurance coverage!
By carefully
determining and acknowledging your requirements ahead of time, and wisely
choosing the best-suited storage location, your RV will safely endure its
period of non-use and present itself ready for the next step, the spring
shakedown! And remember, RVing is more than a hobby, it’s a lifestyle!
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