Stained RV Window Sealing Gaskets

Is there anyway to clean the white rubber-like gaskets around the windows of my RV. They are stained from mildew or something. Thanks for any information you can give me. Mary Ann, (Houston, TX)

Mary Ann, depending on the actual material those window gasket seals are made from, I have a couple suggestions to try. First, Simple Green might work and it’s the most universally available product to try. If that doesn’t do the trick, I’ve had good success with Protect All Products. If the gaskets are truly rubber, I’d try their Rubber Roof Cleaner or their Black Streak Remover. Depending on the age of the gasket material and how long it’s been stained, it may take some elbow grease!

If the staining is mold or mildew, after cleaning, you can saturate a rag with bleach to carefully wipe down the gaskets to kill the mold.  

Wiring Diagram Needed for Older RV

I have purchased a 1987 Monaco LE motorhome and have had it shipped to Australia. I am seeking a wiring diagram for the coach. It is a gas pusher with a 454 engine. Could you help or advise who could? Gary C. (Greenlands, WA, Australia)

Gary, RV owners seeking older wiring diagrams are plentiful but unfortunately I no longer keep wiring diagrams on file. I did for many years, but it simply became too cumbersome to store all that paper. I do have a couple of suggestions though; first you could try contacting one of the Monaco dealerships who were selling back in 1987 to see if they have any diagrams on file. If they are still around, that is. Many astute RV service departments will keep a set on file for future reference. You can find a Monaco dealer listing here. (The accuracy of this listing, however, has not been verified). The new Monaco RV only has a limited number of recent wiring diagrams posted online, so RVers with older coaches indeed have a search on their hands.

Secondly, there are a few dedicated Monaco owner's forums online as well. In some cases, the accuracy of the technical information posted on consumer forums can be iffy, but the most active group appears to be on the iRV2 forum. It might be worth a try to join that forum and see if anyone else has the diagrams you are seeking.

Finally, there are many active RV clubs here in the US that are brand specific. Check the Family Motor Coaching Association website and magazine for listings. RV clubs are a great source of technical information since they are typically a dedicated bunch. In fact, I’m wagering that if a dealer can’t help you, a fellow coach owner will! 

Nitrogen vs. Compressed Air

I recently bought new tires for my RV and they came filled with nitrogen. My question is, if I need air while on a trip, can I get the air replaced with nitrogen or do I just use air from then on? What are the pros and cons? Roland P. (Phoenix, AZ)

Roland, as with many things relating to tires and weight safety, I often ask my friend Walter Cannon to chime in from time to time, just to make sure we're on the same page. Especially in those gray areas like the topic of nitrogen in RV tires. Walter is the Executive Director of the RV Safety & Education Foundation (www.rvsafety.com), a non-profit agency dedicated to helping all facets of the RV Industry. Here's what Walter had to say:

Roland's question is quite typical during discussions of the use of nitrogen in RV tires. Let's start with the importance of maintaining proper air pressure. It is far more important to keep the proper air pressure in the tires than whether you use nitrogen or air. The air we breath is nearly 80% nitrogen, so adding air to a tire that requires more pressure will not dilute the nitrogen that much.

Nitrogen pros:
The process of extracting nitrogen from the air makes it very dry. This is a positive attribute as moisture holds heat and the nitrogen filled tire will cool faster.
 

Nitrogen molecules are larger (3X) than oxygen so the natural migration of air through the tire will be much slower.

Cons;
Cost and Availability.

The bottom line is that nitrogen is a good product but refrain from buying into the "better mileage" or "longer life" of the tire. Just be sure to always maintain the proper pressure and check it often.
   

RV Carpet Replacement

We are considering replacing the carpeting in our motorhome with new carpeting or vinyl flooring. Should we see an RV service dealer or a carpet store?  Thanks!  Carole B. (Kalamazoo, MI)

Carole, a lot depends on if you have slideouts in the motorhome. With today’s proliferation, I’m going to assume you do. With that in mind, it would be best to contact an RV outfitting (decorating) company. There are quite a few located throughout the country. They differ from a regular dealership or stand-alone service center in that they specialize in updating, upgrading and redecorating primarily the interiors of coaches. Start with a Google search for “RV Outfitter” or “RV Decorator” in your area. That said, I've seen some amazing work come out of a shop in eastern WA, Truline RV. Take a look at some of their photos!

The slideouts pose the biggest problem for any service shop or RV decorator. Some rooms simply slide above the main coach flooring while others are flush with the finished flooring when extended. The shop must have experience with partial removal (at the very least) of the slideout room in order to get the finished flooring properly attached under the leading edge of the slide room in either case. To do so requires an expertise not usually found in a “typical” service shop. That said, it’s entirely possible your local motorhome dealer has that capacity. Most assuredly, a retail carpet store will not. 

So you should first learn exactly how your coach manufacturer installed the existing flooring and see if that would present a problem for any shop to remove and install a new flooring surface. Carpet or vinyl, either way, it will probably have to be tucked under the slide room and secured properly. 

I’ve gotten quite a few emails from readers who have experienced the problem of the slideout catching on the edge of the new flooring and damaging it. Most shops familiar with slideout removal and adjustments will probably have the tooling necessary to fully or partially remove the room, or at least tip it back somewhat creating room for the installer to get in there to attach the raw edge of the new flooring correctly. But it is certainly doable. I encourage you to take some photos of the process, if possible; it would make a good article! 

RV Awning Fabric Replacement

I need to replace the awning fabric on my 18-foot awning. All of the aftermarket replacements I find are two pieces, a main awning and a valance. I am having trouble visualizing how the two are joined together in the single slot on the roller tube. Please advise how this is done. Ron T. (Waterford, MI)

Ron, many awning roller tubes (depending on brand and vintage), have two or three individual slots; one for the canopy, another one for the valance and possibly a third slot in order to incorporate a screen room panel. If your roller tube only has a single slot, it will not be possible to include the valance, I'm afraid. That said, I have seen replacement canopies with a "built-in" valance. A single piece of the plastic gimp was sewn into a seam between the main canopy and the valance. This allows the single gimp to utilize a single slot roller tube. You may have to order a replacement directly from the manufacturer or one of their dealers rather than utilizing an aftermarket replacement. 

RV Toilet Leaks

I have an older Tioga motorhome. The hoses connecting to the toilet are leaking. I cannot reach the connections because of the tight space, but I can see the leak with a mirror. My question is, can I access the connections another way without removing the toilet completely? It looks like the toilet might be able to be separated top and bottom. There is a seam there. If I do need to remove the toilet do you have any advice? Todd H. (San Diego, CA)

Todd, there are a few reasons why water may be leaking at or near an RV toilet. By checking where the water is coming from and exactly when the water appears, you can pinpoint which cause is the culprit. If water drips to the floor from the upper portion of the toilet only during the flushing cycle, the problem is most likely the vacuum breaker. Typically a float seal in the vacuum breaker assembly is not sealing properly. On some units, the float can be disassembled and cleaned. Other models will require a repair kit. Still others may require a completely new vacuum breaker. 

Sometimes water will appear to be leaking only if the bowl is filled to capacity. There is a slight possibility the bowl is cracked at a point above the normal water level. This is not a very common situation, but it does happen occasionally and is usually caused by improper winterizing techniques. This is only possible with toilets made with plastic bowls. 

Water may also be noticed around the base of the toilet with no apparent or visible dripping from above. Chances are the seal between the flange and the base assembly is faulty which requires toilet removal and reinstallation. If water leaks onto the floor after the flush cycle has completed, or without flushing the toilet at all, the culprit is the water inlet valve or the connection to the valve. 

This is what you and I both suspect with your toilet. Let’s assume it’s simply the connection at the water inlet valve that is leaking. Though the space may be tight, it’s often possible to tighten the fitting at the inlet to stop the leak. I’ve used a basin wrench in the past to reach behind the toilet and tighten the fitting without having to remove the toilet at all. 



Though you didn’t mention the brand, I believe Fleetwood used the Thetford Aqua Magic toilet in their Class Cs of old. If it’s absolutely necessary to remove the toilet from the floor flange in order to gain proper access to the inlet fitting, you’ll have to remove the nuts on the two closet bolts, which can be difficult a difficult task without the proper tools. 

On the Aqua Magic the bolts are located at the 5 o’clock and 11 o’clock positions when standing in front of the toilet. There should be an access hole under the seat to reach the back bolt at the 11 o’clock position. A long socket extension with a universal joint will be needed to remove that one; or a ratchet wrench can be used by reaching around the rear of the toilet. It’s a blind feel, but doable. 

The front bolt is accessed by turning off the water supply and depressing the pedal. It will be apparent. But I’m guessing if you can gain access to the closet bolts, you can gain access the inlet fitting and the connection that apparently is leaking. I’d try the basin wrench first and only remove the toilet if necessary. Don’t forget, you’ll need a new closet flange seal if you opt to remove the toilet. Though the toilet is constructed in two sections, they do not come apart at that seam you see between the top and bottom halves.

RV Sealants Prevent Water Leaks!

I sure wish I'd had the ability to attend more of your workshops. Do most RV manufacturers use butyl tape under the items they attach to the exterior of the RV? Is using multiple 1-inch strips under all of the area of the accessory necessary or can I just go around the edges of say a 4" X 4" item? Robert W. (somewhere in PA)

Robert, yes, it is the norm for manufacturers to apply a layer of butyl tape (otherwise known as putty tape), or some form of sealant/weather-proofing, between components and the exterior surfaces of the RV during installation. In fact, to prevent leaks, it’s a mandate. However, it's only necessary to apply the sealant, (personally, I use Eternabond DoubleStick tape), under all the screw locations or around the flanges. You don't need to place additional strips unless it creates a mounting or balance problem for that device. I've never seen that happen by the way. But just a layer under the flange perimeter of whatever the widget is; where the screws go through, should do the trick. Just be sure there are no voids or gaps between the accessory and the roof or sidewall. Notice how the window in the photo here needs new sealant!

No RV Battery Charging While Driving

I enjoyed your recent FMCA seminar about 12-volt battery systems. I have a converter that doesn't properly give a full charge while driving! I have a Dodge Sprinter chassis with the Mercedes  turbo. The converter is the 7300 series by Parallax Power Supply. The two 12-volt house batteries are new and I've only used the rig for less than four months. Is there a better converter that I should buy? Glenn C. (Eugene, OR)

Glenn, just to clarify, your Parallax converter/charger will not charge while actually driving down the road. It is powered by 120-volt AC electricity and should charge while plugged into shoreline power or when running the generator. The house batteries and the engine battery should receive a charge via the alternator on the engine while actually driving. It is plausible to run the generator while driving, but if the alternator is sized properly, both battery systems can be effectively charged while driving. Once you stop for the night, plug the coach into 120-volt AC park power and then the Parallax can top off the house batteries. (The Parallax will not charge the chassis battery).

If you're not getting a proper charging current to the batteries while driving, it will be necessary to evaluate the engine alternator and the battery isolator and all points between the alternator and battery bank. A proper setup will have the alternator output feeding into a dedicated dual battery separator or isolator.  The output amperage of the alternator is then split between the two battery systems, the house batteries and the chassis battery. 

One quick test you can make is to measure the voltage at the battery bank with the motorhome engine off. Note that voltage measurement, then start the engine. There should be a 2-3 volt rise in the voltage at the battery bank if the alternator is charging. If the voltage remains the same or goes down at all, it may be a faulty alternator, a faulty battery separator or faulty connections between point A and B.... meaning, further troubleshooting is in order. 

A Certified RV technician should be able to quickly diagnose which component(s) may be at fault and make the subsequent repair(s). In my RV Owner's Handbook, I give you the step-by-step procedures for testing the isolator and the wiring. But a quick voltage measurement with the engine off and then running will give you some indication of where the problem is originating. This, of course, is assuming the batteries themselves are in good condition. 

 

Drippy RV Faucets

How do you repair the bathroom faucets? I have a two-handle faucet in the bathroom that looks to be all metal and they constantly drip. How and what do I replace? Mike R. (Richmond, BC)

Mike, the most common cause of dripping faucets is debris or mineral deposits becoming stuck in the assembly so let’s not be too quick to condemn an innocent faucet! All faucets are presumed innocent until proven faulty in a court of law! Or at least until proven faulty. In some cases however, older faucets can suffer from worn rubber washers or a fouled cartridge. I’m assuming you’ve already tried to flush any contaminates by fully opening each faucet and letting it run for a few moments. This is best effectuated when connected to a city water source, (temporarily remove the pressure regulator if so equipped). If your faucets are indeed metal, chances are they contain seat washers.

If a thorough flushing did not remove the debris and the faucets still drip, it will be necessary to disassemble the faucets and check the seat washers. First, turn off all water sources and relieve the pressure at the lavatory faucets. Remove the Hot and Cold handles. There is usually a single screw located below each button on top of each handle. Once the handles are off, carefully remove the bonnet lock and washer. Some will just lift off and others may pop off by gently using a flat blade screwdriver. Remove each stem and bonnet assembly using an adjustable wrench or a deep-well socket. I believe you’ll find them to require a 3/4-inch socket. They are removed by turning counter-clockwise. Now’s the time to carefully inspect each assembly as well as inside the body of the faucet for loose debris and/or mineral build-up. Brush or scrape away any residue you find. Rinse all the parts in clean water. Carefully inspect the bottom seat washer and replace it if it’s dried out, cracked, pinched or distorted in any way. A single screw holds this washer in place. For a quick test (or even a temporary fix), flip that washer over and reassemble the assembly, turn the water back on and check for drips. If the dripping goes away, you’ll know it’s the washer that needs replacing. If the faucet continues to drip periodically, you’ll have to dig further and inspect the seats inside the body of the faucet. 

Some faucets have removable seats while others do not. If you see a hexagonal opening in the seats, those can be removed and replaced. Check the top surface of each seat to be sure there are no nicks or cuts. Replace the seats if you feel any sense of scratchiness or roughness. Plastic seats are more prone to damage than brass seats, so check carefully if yours are plastic. 

If the faucets, however, contain washerless cartridges they will also contain an O-ring instead of a flat seat washer. It will also have a filtering device in the body of the shank. Be sure to check the filter screen for debris before reassembling. Faucet seats, washers and O-rings are readily available at any hardware store. Take care whenever threading the seats and the stem/bonnet assemblies into the body of the faucet during reassembly. It’s quite easy to cross-thread them! Instead of a 50-cent repair, you’ll be looking at a complete faucet replacement! After reassembly, turn the water pressure back on and check your work. Faucet repair is not as daunting as some might suspect.