Trashed RV Water Heater

We just purchased a Mallard travel trailer and we realized its water is heated by propane and the unit looks shot, is there anyway to convert this to a water heater powered with electric? and about how much would that cost if we were to do something like that? Debby M. (Loudonville, OH)

Debby, indeed, replacement water heaters are available that come equipped with a 120-volt AC electric heating element. Both Atwood and Suburban offer a replacement model that will probably fit into the same space as your current heater. There’s really no way to “convert” an existing unit to accommodate an electric function. Even though aftermarket products are available, such as an add-on electric element, they are not recommended. The current models produced by both companies will typically include electric AND propane energy sources, however. You can probably find one at your local RV service center or accessory store or online quite easily. I'd go that route since you'd be getting a fresh warranty and with proper maintenance, it will last a very long time.
 

Damaged Hinge on RV Toilet

The toilet seat hinge on one side is broken. Can it be replaced and how? A local shop said I'd have to replace the whole toilet. I sure hope not! Ed B. (Ft. Myers, FL)

Ed, in most cases, the toilet will not have to be completely replaced. The hinge can be replaced on many RV toilets, though it may entail replacing more than just the hinge. For example, on one model in the Aqua Magic line, the hinge is actually an integral component of the vacuum breaker assembly. So it all depends on the brand and model of your toilet. If you send me that information, I’ll be able to determine with better accuracy. But I’ll hazard an early guess that it is indeed possible.

Which Wires go Where? An RV Electrical Dilemma

During my recovery from a heart attack, a good friend of mine disconnected the batteries, but failed to mark or tie together the wires that are connected to each of the positive and negative posts. Connecting the wiring harness is not a problem, but the 8 other wires attached to the batteries are a problem. How can I tell which wire's a positive and which are negative? No wiring drawings were ever provided by the manufacturer for this rig. I can't drive the rig to a repair center so all repairs must be done where I park the rig. So do you have any thoughts or ideas on what I can do solve this problem. Jack B. (Walnut Creek, CA)

Jack, sorry to hear about your battery wiring issues as well as your heart attack. I’m hoping you are on the mend and will be ready to get RVing again. Unfortunately, without actually “ringing” out each wire with an ohmmeter, it will be difficult to determine exactly which wires connect where. Some manufacturers use a color code, such as red for a hot wire, white or green for a ground wire, but there’s no telling what your manufacturer actually did. A good RV service technician, certified or master certified, should be able to effectively trace each wire to its ultimate destination. Since you can’t drive the vehicle as is, your best bet is to locate a certified mobile technician in your area. Unfortunately, I do not have one to recommend to you, but any good RV tech should be able to make a few measurements on the remaining conductors and determine if they are positive or negative.

Wish I had better news, but it takes an in-person, eyes-on approach to truly find the correct wiring configuration. You certainly do not want to try the “spark” method.

RV Holding Tank Crack

We bought a new Keystone fifth wheel toy hauler about a year and a half ago. It went out of warranty after one year and now I have my grey water tank leaking badly when it is almost full. It is the tank for the shower and vanity. I removed a section of panel under the unit to see if the tank could be repaired from underneath. I have access to the tank from under the unit and found a crack along the top edge of the tank and repaired it but it still leaks really bad when it is almost full. It appears to be coming from on top of the tank. Can the tank be removed from under the unit by cutting the drain coming down into the tank and disconnecting the dump valve and the sensor wiring? It seems that if I remove a steel brace the tank rests on it should lower down underneath. There are four screws holding the brace the tank rests on. It doesn't look as though the tank is screwed into the brace anywhere so should it just lower down so I can see where the leak is and repare or replace the tank if necessary. It seems as though the fifth wheel was built over the tanks and they could only be removed from under the unit. Any help would be appreciated before I do something that could be costly to reverse. John C. (Roaring Spring, PA)

John, yes, according the Standard for Recreation Vehicles, NFPA 1192, all holding tanks are to be installed in a manner that makes them accessible and removable in the field; even if you have to do a little digging to get to it. Removing that steel support brace after disconnecting each of the drains entering the top of the tank as well as the vent, (also required), should allow that grey tank to be removed. At the outlet of the tank, simple remove the waste valve by removing the four bolts at the termination assembly. I probably don’t need to remind you to perform these steps after the tank has been evacuated, flushed and drained again!

In some cases, access to the drain piping and vent pipe can be accomplished inside one of the interior cabinets. Simply cut through the ABS piping, near the floor, using a hacksaw. When reinstalling, simply glue an ABS coupling to rejoin the pieces.

Keep in mind, once you assess the crack, that the only permanent repair to a plastic holding tank is by plastic welding. Patch kits, although readily available in the aftermarket, should be considered a temporary repair only. Only by plastic welding can a tank be permanently repaired, so look for a shop or dealer with experience using a plastic welding machine. If no shop in your area performs this service, I do have a Plastic Welding instructional videotape available if your shop is interested.

If the crack is severe or located in an area under stress, it may be more practical to replace the tank. You’ll have to contact your selling dealer or Keystone in order to obtain the correct, exact replacement. In some cases, holding tank replacements are better left to the pro technicians, but in some cases, an RV handyperson with adequate tools and an understanding of RV waste plumbing, repairs and replacements can be an alternate consideration.  

##RVT790 

RV Refrigerator Repair

I've got an old Dutchman travel trailer and have a problem with the Dometic fridge. The spark ignitor wire for the propane burner either went bad and shorted out against the aluminum tube that feeds the burner, or the aluminum developed a pinhole in it and burned the wire, not sure what happened first. I've already replaced the ignitor wire and now need to replace the tubing. Can I replace it with copper tubing? Or do I need to replace it with aluminum again? Ken R. (Dekalb, IL)

Ken, in all instances of internal appliance component replacement, it is always prudent to use like components. In your case, it’s best to have your service shop order the exact replacement part for that propane tubing. Chances are it is a metric size and it might be difficult to located metric copper tubing. And then flaring or double-flaring (depending on the model), creates another stop-gap. It is much easier to order the part and simply replace, like for like.

Keep in mind, whenever any propane line is disconnected, a timed pressure leak test must be performed. And since yours is an older unit, it might be a good idea to have a regulator lock-up test performed and the delivery line pressure calibrated as well. Typically, these are best left to a Certified or Master Certified technician since it requires specialty devices and exact procedures.

RV Labels Needed - Update!

Where can I buy peel & stick labels for the outside of the motorhome to identify the types of services, i.e., fuel fill, black water outlet, grey water outlet, freshwater inlet, battery, accessories, etc? Bob B. (Surrey, BC)

Typically, RVers will usually make their own labels for the various compartments, nooks and storage areas on their coach when necessary, Bob. In some cases, labels affixed by the original RV manufacturer can sometimes be found at a selling dealer for that brand of motorhome.

However, I did find a thread in an online RV forum here that may be helpful. It seems like the respondents there were of like mind!

But other than the original manufacturer or a dealer, I’m not aware of any aftermarket sites that sell those types of labels; sorry. Perhaps one of our readers has another suggestion. 

UPDATE! After Bob's question appeared on RVdoctor.com, one company, The Master's Edge, in East Berlin, PA, offered their expertise for any RVer needing new compartment labeling or other graphics for their RVs. Feel free to visit their website to see if they may be of assistance. Gary Bloomfield of The Master's Edge, works with RV dealers providing striping and other graphics as needed.

Are Surge Protectors Needed in RVs?

We loved your seminars at the Seattle RV show! I have a diesel Winnebago motorhome. A friend told me about how his 120-volt appliances in his RV fried at a campground in AK. He said a surge protector probably would have prevented a huge bill to replace what was destroyed. I have been looking at them, specifically the portable 30-amp model from TRC. Portable because I can take it with me when I sell the motorhome at some later date. Is it a good idea to have a surge protector and is the TRC a good one? 

Also what are your thoughts on extended service plans? I have been looking at the Good Sam Gold extended service plan. My coach is fairly new but with no extended warranty and if I had major repairs done on the drive train or systems it could be a very big expense. Are there plans by other providers that I can make comparisons with before I commit? Jim G. (Seattle, WA) 

Jim, thanks for attending the seminars at the Seattle Show! Good to have you there! I indeed, heartily recommend a surge protector for RVs. I tend to the favor those that are hard-wired into the AC system, but that’s just a personal preference. Certainly the portable, in-line type is just as effective. I’ve not personally tested the TRC unit but have heard good things about it. My hope is to A/B a few different models and publish the results when I can find the time! 

Surge protectors act like an electrical sponge of sorts, absorbing excess voltage, thereby protecting the coach. RV surge protection should include the ability to completely shut off the incoming power before damaging transients can reach sensitive equipment. Additionally, they should have the capability to monitor and detect high and low voltage conditions and to interrupt the incoming power until the system has returned to safer levels over a period of time.

Most surge protectors utilize MOVs, (Metal Oxide Varistors) to protect against transients voltages. The quality devices usually have a minimum of three MOVs in the circuitry. More sophisticated protectors, such that might be used in the computer industry, have what is called sine wave tracking which actually tracks the incoming AC signal and literally cuts off the top portion of the wave. It provides better protection for highly sensitive equipment. The key to this technology is determined by the “clamping voltage rating” also called the “let-through voltage rating.” The lower the rating, the better the protection. Sine wave tracking protectors have a remarkably tight clamping voltage surrounding the incoming power line sine wave.

Some companies extol the Joule Rating of their surge protection device. A “joule” is a measurement of energy that indicates the amount of energy that a device is capable of absorbing. The joule rating is primarily determined by the total number of MOVs in the device. Unfortunately, there is no standard for measuring the joule rating of surge suppressors that I am aware of, but generally those with a higher rating are considered better. It is felt by many in the surge protection business that the joule rating of a surge suppressor is less important than the “let-through voltage” rating. Underwriters Laboratories, (UL), has, however, developed a minimum standard for spike suppressors. The surge protector you choose to install in your RV should meet or exceed the requirements of UL 1449.

As for extended service plans....I really have no idea. I wish I had the time to look into such plans, but unfortunately, do not. But I've heard it's best to try and look past the marketing hype and determine just exactly what is, and what is not, covered. I know the wording in the contract can be tricky. Probably best to focus on what is NOT covered and see if it will work for you. Perhaps some of our readers will chime in with info on extended service contracts they've had success with; if so, I'll forward them on to you.