Flawed RV Exterior Finish

We purchased a 1992 Coachmen Class A a few years ago. Since it is parked outside all the time, 90% of the clear coat has peeled off (except for the bumpers), and the decals have faded and are cracked severely. I have read each of your archived RV Doctor Columns (and picked up some info along the way), looked up DIY auto painting, etc., but have not found anything specific on painting the fiberglass of a motorhome. Nor have I found what I feel is an acceptable way to remove 80 feet of decals without possibly damaging the glass. What is the best way to remove the decals? Is there a specific clear coat or paint I should use over the fiberglass? Tom, (Whittier, CA) 

Tom, you mentioned "clear coat" and not “gel coat,” and it’s important to know the difference. Coaches built in the early 1990's may have an applied clear coat or it may be simply gel-coated fiberglass. It’s apparent yours probably received a dealer-applied coating sold and installed at the time of the original purchase. These coatings were popular back then, and costly, but only lasted about five years under normal use. As you’ve noticed, they tend to deteriorate and become unsightly over time. Removal is difficult but can be accomplished with the proper knowledge and a little patience. 

To remove the remaining coating you can use any cleaning product that contains ammonia, including 409 or any glass cleaner that contains ammonia D. It will be necessary to allow the cleaner to “soak” into the clear coat before wiping clean. Removing the cracked decals is also accomplished with the right tools and a good deal of time and patience. You will need a heat gun, not a simple hair dryer, but a commercial-type heat gun. You’ll also need a plastic scraper. Scrapers and heat guns are available at any of the big box home-care stores. Be sure the scraper is yellow or white plastic. They are less prone to damaging the exterior surface. Remember, heat guns can get very hot so be careful to not burn or blister the fiberglass while heating the decals. Gently heat the surface of the decal and push the scraper under a loosened edge. Keep warming the surface and continuing to scrape the decal. The operative words here are; slow and steady. Once the decals are totally scraped away, apply an adhesive removal product to eliminate any residue left behind. Adhesive removers will either be oil based, like mineral spirits, or D-limonene based like Goo Gone. You can try both to see which works best. After the residue has been removed, I recommend an application of Protect All’s Fiberglass Oxidation Remover over the entire fiberglass surface. Depending on how oxidized your finish is, it may take two applications.

Once all the oxidation has been removed, the motorhome can be prepped for painting. Since paint types are so subjective, I’ll leave it to you to do your homework to determine what is best for your situation. My suggestion would be to check with a local RV collision repair facility or a paint and auto body supply center in your area for the specifics. In any case, the facility must have a paint booth large enough to accommodate your coach. That will be one determining factor. But at least you can perform most of the prep work yourself. 

For some good reading on the care of fiberglass, check out the info published here.

RV Drain Pipes

Why isn’t standard, cement together plastic pipe and fittings used in the repair of RVs when replacing factory installed fittings? Clyde, (Billerica, MA) 

Clyde, since you asked about “pipe and fittings,” I’m assuming you are referring to the RV waste piping systems. Standard ABS fittings continue to be used in the manufacture and repair of RV drainage systems. Most every RV contains Schedule 40, plastic ABS for all P-traps and drains as well as vent stacks. (In the photo here you can see a sink continuous waste, a P-trap and an anti-siphon trap vent device). Some components, such as the termination valves, are bolted, (using adapters), rather than cemented, but the majority of RV manufacturers still use cemented fittings for simple connections such as elbows, tees and wyes, in both the black and gray waste systems. 

Now if you meant cemented fittings for the distribution of the fresh water, the norm today is cross-linked polyethylene, (PEX) tubing. It used to be the gray polybutylene tubing and before that, cemented PVC and CPVC pipe and fittings and copper tubing. PEX is much easier to install and certainly less expensive and lighter in weight than copper tubing, which you may still see periodically in some custom installations. There are a few different connection methods used with PEX fittings including a variety of clamps and rings, but none involve glue or cement. The fresh plumbing system today enjoys fully the advantages of flexible tubing rather than rigid piping for the distribution of the fresh water. But the waste systems still employ cemented ABS pipe and fittings.

Frustrating Fly 'Festation' with RV Toilet

I just purchased my first ever motorhome earlier this year, a used 38-foot Damon. I have what seems like fruit flies breeding in the black water holding tank. No problem with the gray water holding tank. Whenever you push the flush foot pedal, the flies come swarming up out of the commode. I tried a half gallon of ammonia down the toilet and it seemed to help for a few days, but to no avail, they are back. I have talked with some of other motorhome residents in my park, but they have never heard of this problem. I usually dump both tanks when they are about two-thirds full. Has anyone had this problem before and what was the solution?
Jim, (San Antonio, TX) 

First off, Jim, congratulations on the purchase of your first-ever motorhome! I’m sure you’ll rack up plenty of RVing miles in the coming months! About your bugs, you are evidently experiencing an onslaught of sewer flies, also called drain gnats among other names, (some of which may not be printable here). Depending on your specific variety, the scientific name is probably either Psychoda alternate or Psychoda cinerea. They are sometimes found in RV holding tanks since they thrive on moist organic waste, especially solid waste. Just the kind of stuff you’d find in the black holding tank. Primarily one that has not been cleaned, flushed or maintained adequately. Chances are, at some point, your new-to-you motorhome was probably stored without the holding tanks being flushed, cleaned and emptied completely.

Thankfully sewer flies do not bite, but they can be very annoying and still even dangerous at times. Because they are born among decaying filth and waste, they have the capability to transmit diseases to humans. Prolific little creatures, they lay their eggs in masses of anywhere from 10 to 200 groups, according to one report I researched. The larvae resemble small worms; basically without legs. The eggs can hatch anywhere between 32 to 48 hours. They mature in about two weeks and simply keep reproducing until they die or are eradicated. But keep in mind, new adults keep emerging from the pupae every 20 to 40 hours! The adults live approximately two weeks.

For short term relief, published reports recommend using a spray can of an insecticide containing pyrethrins or resmethrin. This will knock the adults down for a while. I must admit, however, I’ve never personally tried the insecticide route, but if you do, always follow the proper safety precautions for pesticide use, especially inside the motorhome. After killing those in the immediate area, be sure to sufficiently vent the entire RV. Read the precautions on the spray can carefully! But the best defense against long term infestation is to simply keep the holding tanks flushed and clean during periods of non-use. In your particular instance, it may be necessary to have your holding tanks hydro-cleaned, (see allprowaterflow.com). Because dried out waste can often stick to the bottom of the holding tank or clog the outlet of the tank, simply draining and flushing with fresh water may not be enough to dislodge all contaminants. And as you flush the toilet, the added moisture imbues new life into the larvae, prolonging the infestation. The bottom line is that the toilet drain and the black holding tank must be thoroughly cleaned prior to placing the motorhome in storage.

Though some people may not favor a holding tank additive, the proliferation of sewer flies is one strong case to indeed employ one. An enzyme-based, formaldehyde-free additive, one that helps digest the solids, is my recommendation. I’ve personally seen an infestation so severe that the flies had backed up into the integral tubing inside the toilet. The toilet had to be completely disassembled, cleaned and reassembled. It was quite time consuming. Hopefully your situation isn’t that bad. But it does mandate at least a complete inspection of the toilet and other components such as the vent pipe for that holding tank. It’s not the end of the world obviously, but it is quite annoying!

Noisy RV Slideout

Our 2007 Winnebago has a living room/dinette booth slide that makes a loud groaning or growling noise when sliding.  It has a little bit of a jiggle back and forth along the front edge as it comes in. It did not do that for a while when it was new and we did buy it new. We have tried some cans of stuff recommended by a local RV shop here but it didn't help.  Last week we stopped by our dealer and we were told, "well some of them do that." "It could cost a lot to have it fixed."  And they were wanting to sell us a newer model (diesel). We said no. This noise would wake up any close-by neighbors in an RV park if we were doing an in or out of the slide and we want it nice and quiet again. The bedroom slide does NOT do this. It is nice and quiet. Yes, it is a smaller slide. Any suggestions on what to do? How can we fix or troubleshoot the problem? It works fine, just is noisy. Doug & Rose, (Cheyenne,WY)

Well, Doug and Rose, it's apparent your dealer isn't too interested in helping, but I do believe your situation warrants a detailed inspection by a qualified service technician; one who is RVIA/RVDA certified. And obviously one who is interested in truly helping you!

It's quite possible you have a couple of issues. One, a misaligned slide room. There are multiple adjustments the pro techs can do to eliminate alignment problems, (see photo), but unfortunately, most are not for the typical RV handyperson. Some even require specialty equipment. One thing you can check; the lubrication of the slideout mechanism. Grinding or groaning noises can be attributable to either the wrong grease being used or simply not enough lubrication or possible binding. Improper lube can attract dirt and road grime resulting in noisy operation and worn components. A lot depends also on the type of slideout mechanism that powers that room. If you can see and access the gears, clean them thoroughly and then apply a dry lubrication. I've had great success with Protect All Slideout Lube. A dry lube will not attract and trap damaging contaminants.

That brings up the third possibility, simply a worn mechanism. Again, a pro technician should be able to quickly diagnose the problem with a first-hand inspection and a few tests. Although only a few years old, a heavier-than-normal room may prematurely wear out the gears, especially if the incorrect lubrication is used.

RVT737

RV Awning Canopy Replacement

I need some help on how to install the new fabric on my older A&E Awning 8500 series. No instructions came with it. Is it a hard job to change? Thanks for any help on this subject. Sigrid, (FL)

Sigrid, it is relatively easy to replace an awning fabric, but it does take a minimum of two people. The easiest and safest method involves removing the awning from the side of the RV and one of the spring torsion assemblies, (releasing the spring tension). Some experienced installers can do this alone, but with two or three people the task is much easier. Here's the step-by-step:

Awning removal

      Release the travel locks on the awning arms and position the cam lock to the roll down setting. Roll the awning out about a foot or so. If the cam lock mechanism is not working, you will have to prop the awning in this position with a short board.

      At both end caps, there is a hole through which a cotter pin is inserted to lock the spring tension. The inner shaft must be rotated until the holes line up, insert the cotter pin and bend the ends to prevent it from slipping out.

     Remove the two lag bolts that hold each of the rafters to the top of the RV.

      Remove the screw at each side of the awning fabric that holds the fabric in position on the awning rail. The complete awning is now ready to remove from the coach. Have two sawhorses setup at the proper distance apart to place the awning on. The awning rail must not be crimped or flattened out or the awning cord will not slide out. There is a special tool to straighten the awning rail if this is the case.

      With a helper, grasp the awning arms, release the arms from the foot that is attached at the bottom of the arm and walk the whole assembly off the end of the trailer until the fabric is completely out of the awning rail. Lay the awning tube on the sawhorses and rest the bottom of the awning arms on the ground.

Releasing the spring tension

      Caution: care must be taken to control the spring tension at all times. Considerable force is stored in the spring and this force is easily able to break a wrist or inflict a severe cut.

      A pair of adequately sized vice grips are clamped onto the removable top part of the awning arm. To prevent scratching the finish, insert cut pieces of rubber inner tube or other similar material, between the jaws of the vice grips before clamping. Be sure to have a firm hold with the vice grips and be sure to have a firm hold on the tool itself. It is best to straddle the awning tube and use both hands to control the vice grips. Have your helper remove the 7/16" bolt holding this part to the awning arm and to then move the awning arm away. Next remove the cotter pin that was previously placed and unwind the spring until all tension is removed.

      If the awning fabric is to be removed, repeat this procedure on the other end of the awning to remove that torsion assembly.

Removing the torsion assembly

      The torsion assembly consists of the spring, end cap and cam lock mechanism. It is held on to the awning tube by two rivets that must be drilled out. First mark the position of the cam handle on the awning tube so that you can replace it in the same position. Using a 1/8" drill bit, drill out the rivets and remove the end cap/torsion assembly.

Removing the awning fabric

      Both torsion assemblies must be removed to be able to slide the fabric off the awning tube. See Removing the torsion assembly section for instructions. Lift the awning tube at both ends and manually unroll the fabric by turning the awning tube by hand until the fabric is fully rolled off. Be sure to mark the awning tube so that the replacement fabric can be inserted into the same position. Slide the fabric off the tube. It is often easier to hold the fabric itself and have a helper or two to slip the awning tube off and away.

Replacing the awning fabric

      If you are replacing the awning fabric with a new one, it helps to lay out the old fabric in such a way as to protect the new one from damage as you "thread" it on to the awning tube. A few helping hands are required and some patience is involved. Take care not to rip the fabric as you are sliding it into the awning tube. If you carefully file down the sharp edges on the tube this will help considerably. Once the fabric is in place make sure it is centered on the tube and tuck the cord ends into the tube.

Re-installing the torsion assembly

      Install the torsion assembly and line it up with the marks that you made when disassembling it. Rivet the assembly in place.

     Grasp the end piece with vice grips and have your helper be ready to re-insert the cotter pin. Wind the spring by the number of turns indicated above for your length and model awning, in the direction indicated on the end cap. Insert the cotter pin to hold the spring tension. Replace the awning arm on the end piece and replace the bolt.

Re-installing the awning

      Sometimes it helps to have three people when replacing the awning on the coach - two to handle the awning arms while one to feed the awning cord into the awning rail. While the awning fabric is fairly robust, care must be taken not to snag it on the awning rail. The end of the awning rail can be spread out slightly with a screwdriver and the sharp ends filed down to prevent tearing of the fabric.

##RVT940