No Water Pressure in RV Fresh Plumbing System

The water pressure in our motorhome is getting lower and lower in the bathroom. Plus it makes a whistling sound when the hot water is running. The sound seems to be coming from or near water heater. I have replaced the connector and pressure valve where you hook it to city water. It still has low pressure in the bathroom; especially the hot water has very low pressure. Any help would be appreciated!
Billy, (Paris, TN)

Billy, here’s a couple things to check. Remove the faucet strainer at the outlet of that bathroom faucet set. It simply unscrews from the outlet. There may also be a flow restrictor component inside, depending on the brand of faucet used in your motorhome. A flow diverter may also be present; usually a white plastic piece with holes in it. It basically directs the output flow to a certain pattern. Be sure all the components in the tap outlet are clean and free from all obstructions. It’s common for mineral deposits to accumulate in this strainer assembly. It’s possible that significant flow restriction at the faucet would cause back pressure at the water heater. As an annual procedure, it’s also a good measure to perform this simple maintenance task at every faucet in the RV.

Additionally, some faucet assemblies have removable stems for both the hot and cold faucet valves. In some cases, these can be removed for cleaning. Again, it depends on which brand the manufacturer originally installed.

Your situation could also be caused by an issue originating at the rear of the water heater. Gain access to the rear of the heater from inside the RV. You’ll probably see a set of bypass valves used for winterizing. First check the valves themselves. You will either have a one, two or three valve set-up that allows you to bypass the water heater for winterizing purposes. Be sure the bypass valves are in the correct position and that the appropriate valves are either fully opened or fully closed.

There should also be a check valve at the cold water inlet to the water heater. The cold inlet is the bottommost fitting. The check valve is a one-way backflow preventer that allows cold water in and prevents the heated water from migrating out of the water heater back into the cold piping system. It’s possible the check valve is partially open; again mineral deposits can prevent the spring inside from closing off the valve completely. This is probably the source of the whistling noise you hear. You can obtain a new check valve at your local RV accessory store. It will attach with common pipe threads. Be sure to obtain the correct size. You will have to drain the water heater in order to remove the cold water line plumbed to that check valve fitting. Flush out the water heater as you drain it. There are aftermarket hose attachments available to aid in this process. This will help eliminate those pesky mineral deposits that can migrate to the faucets.

When installing the new check valve, apply a pipe thread sealant approved for fresh water systems to the male threads and carefully thread the new valve into the heater, taking care not to cross-thread it! Then simply re-attach the cold water inlet tubing to the new valve, apply water pressure to refill the heater and check for leaks. You’ll know the water heater is filled when you have free flowing water from each hot faucet in the motorhome. It may take a minute or so of running to rid the system of air, but this should eliminate any blockages and that whistling noise.

RV Anti-Freeze

We have a Fleetwood Regal Prowler. It is a seasonal unit, set up at a campground year around. We are hooked up to city water and so do not use the fresh water holding tank. Can I pour 12 or more gallons of RV antifreeze into the tank and use what I need to winterize the trailer each year from what I have stored in the fresh water tank? And an important question, does the stored antifreeze remain stable or does it deteriorate?
Richard, (Oshkosh, WI)

I see no reason not to attempt what you are suggesting Richard. As long as you never need on-board, self-contained fresh water, why not use the fresh water storage tank as an anti-freeze holding container? RV anti-freeze will have a shelf life, but I do not know how long it will actually stay viable, so check with the suppler to be sure of its life expectancy. I’m sure the producer of that brand will have what’s called an MSDS sheet that should help shed some light on its lifespan.

And I’m certain you would not require twelve gallons of it to properly protect your Prowler. I do recommend a water heater by-pass kit to keep the anti-freeze cost down though. I would venture you’d be able to safely use the same anti-freeze for a minimum of at least two years. You can always test its effectiveness after that by using a coolant hydrometer. I’d run a little through the water pump as well to keep the gaskets and seals moist in there since you never use the pump while on city water. But, shoot….I’d say go for it since you employ city water all the time. If need be, it can always be flushed out later.

RV Spring Shakedown Primer

By Gary Bunzer

As memories of a cold, long winter begin to wane, many of us get antsy for that first RV excursion of the season. Holed up all winter, we’ve been making travel plans, waiting for the trees to blossom, the birds to chirp and the campgrounds to open.

The majority of us readied our coaches last fall for storage; some fully winterized for colder temperatures. After each period of non-use, regardless if the RV was winterized for sub-freezing temperatures or simply stored in the driveway, every coach must be properly prepped for use prior to simply taking off down the highway. Many call this preparation process the “spring shakedown.” It involves a few detailed tasks, best addressed in a systematic manner, so nothing falls through the cracks. So block out a few days, gather a few maintenance supplies and get ready for another season of fun RV travel!

The following procedures are presented in a priority order that best assures nothing will be forgotten. They are also presented in bulleted format for a quick reference each season. Always have a pad and pencil on hand to note any item that needs attention. During comprehensive procedures like the spring shakedown, don’t rely solely on your memory.

RV Exterior

·       A clean RV will better reveal discrepancies than a dirty one so begin by washing the coach. Wax and polish the exterior if necessary and open all the windows to air the coach out.

·       Check the weather-stripping and the weep holes on all windows, ensuring they are not clogged. Lube the slider tracks on any window or screen that opens.

·       Closely inspect all roof components, seams, and edges. Now is the time to seal any areas that need attention.

·       Check the roof air conditioner(s) for damage. Clean or replace the return air filters.

·       Inspect and operate all bay doors, entry door, etc. Lube all mechanical latches and keyed locks with a dry lube.

·       Check the sealants around each window and all components attached to the exterior sides of the RV. Reseal if necessary.

·       Lubricate the moving parts of all awnings. Remove any mold or mildew on the canopies.

·       Look for anything out of the ordinary underneath the RV.

·       Lubricate all slideout mechanisms using a dry lubricant.

Electrical Systems

    12-volt DC Systems

·       Check the electrolyte level in all flooded, 12-volt batteries and fully charge each battery system. Always provide batteries the advantage of having a complete charge at the start of any camping season.

·       Verify that all electrical connections are clean, dry and tight. Confirm all 12-volt DC devices are ready by operating each one. Turn on all lamps and fans, etc.

·       Cycle each slideout through a full extension and retraction a couple of times while listening and watching for binding or abnormal noises. Leave all rooms in the extended position.

    120-volt AC System

·       Clean and brighten the blades on the shoreline cord. Note: always measure the source voltage and check the polarity of incoming AC power before plugging in. The voltage must stay steady between 103 and 125-volts AC.

·       Plug the coach in and turn on all circuit breakers at the panelboard inside the RV.

·       Plug in any ancillary AC device that was unplugged during the winterizing process. Note: to guard against rogue lightning damage or voltage spikes during downtimes, it is advised to unplug any AC device that isn’t hardwired such as the refrigerator, microwave, televisions, entertainment centers, etc. 

·       Operate 120-volt AC appliances through their respective cycles. Note: be sure the absorption refrigerator is properly leveled prior to operating it on electric.

·       Test and reset the GFCI, (ground fault circuit interrupter).

·       After the filters have been cleaned or replaced, run each air conditioner, checking for unusual noises or vibrations.

Plumbing Systems

    Fresh Water

·       If employed last fall, drain the RV anti-freeze from the fresh water system.

·       Fill the fresh water tank about half full.

·       Remove the water heater from by-pass. If the water heater is a Suburban model, remove and inspect the anode rod. Replace it if it is 75% depleted.

·       Turn the water pump on and begin flushing out all water lines. Open each faucet to eliminate any residual RV anti-freeze. Don’t forget the exterior showerhead, the icemaker or the clothes washer, if so equipped.

·       At the water heater, open the pressure and temperature relief valve. Once water begins gushing from the P&T valve, close the lever.

·       Once water is flowing smoothly from each faucet, shut them all off.

·       Flush the toilet a couple of times to fill its internal tubing.

·       Turn off the water pump, then open the water heater P&T relief valve once more and leave it open until water stops dripping from the outlet, then close it. This establishes the necessary expansion space on top of the water inside the heater tank.

·       Attach the fresh water hose to the city connection and verify all fresh water components still operate properly. Inspect for water dripping or seeping anywhere, inside and outside the RV.

·       Finally, chlorinate the entire fresh water system.

    Waste Systems

·       Flush and drain each holding tank completely.

·       Disassemble and lubricate all termination valves. Ensure each one operates smoothly and fully closes. Note: use Dow 111 grease for lubrication.

·       Treat each holding tank for odor control if necessary. Use a non-formaldehyde additive.

·       Inspect the sewer hose for pinholes or damaged seals.

Propane System and Appliances

·       Contact a Certified or Master Certified RV service tech and schedule a timed pressure drop test and pressure regulator test on the propane system. Ensure the system is 100% leak-free prior to continuing prepping the propane system.

·       Activate and test the propane leak detector. Also check the CO monitor, smoke alarms and fire extinguishers for proper readiness.

·       Open the service valve fully at the propane container(s).

·       Vacuum in and around all furnace ducts.

·       Operate each appliance through their sequences of operation. Note: be sure the refrigerator is appropriately leveled prior to testing its operation on gas and that the water heater is full of water before initiating the propane sequence on it.

Generator

·       Check the oil level. Change the oil and filter if necessary.

·       Check and replace the air filter element and any fuel filters in the system, if so equipped.

·       Check the condition of the rubber fuel line to the generator. If small cracks are evident or the hoses lack suppleness, replace them.

·       Start the generator and allow it to stabilize. Once it is running smoothly, allow the generator to power the coach.

·       With on generator power, again cycle the air conditioner(s) and allow the generator to carry this load for at least thirty minutes.

Tires and Wheels

·       Closely inspect all tires. Remove rocks or pebbles lodged in the tread. Note: it will be necessary to roll the rig forward or backward to fully inspect all the way around each tire.

·       Examine all sidewalls. Never drive on tires showing any evidence of sidewall weather-checking.

·       Examine the DOT date code. Tires approaching 5 to 7 years of age may need replacing. Have a tire expert break down and inspect the inside of older tires. Note: the last four digits of the DOT code indicate the week and year of manufacture. Example: 4010 indicates that tire was manufactured during the 40^th week of 2010.

·       Clean and treat all tires with a non-petroleum based treatment.

·       Be sure all tires are pressurized to the correct inflation as determined by the weight each tire is supporting. Note: this can only be determined by weighing each tire position using certified scales.

·       Torque all lug nuts to the specified requirement. 

Chassis Considerations

    
     Motorhomes

·       Check all fluid levels. Those typical to most gasoline-powered motorhomes include:

            • Engine oil

            • Transmission fluid

            • Rear axle gear oil

            • Power steering fluid

            • Brake fluid

            • Radiator coolant

            • Windshield washer fluid

            • Fuel tanks           

            • Hydraulic leveling system/slideout reservoir

·       For diesel coaches, refer to the owner’s manual for the manufacturer’s recommendations for that chassis.

·       Check the odometer; it may be time for a tune-up or brake inspection.

·       Verify the integrity of engine drive belts and coolant hoses.

·       Test all running lamps, turn signals, headlamps, etc., as well as antennas, entry steps and all accessories not mentioned specifically here.

·       Take the motorhome on a short road test. Be aware of strange noises, vibrations and abnormalities with steering and handling.

    Towables

·       Every two years, clean and pack the wheel bearings and replace the seals.

·       Adjust all electric brakes if necessary.

·       Inspect all spring shackles, u-bolts and hitch components.

·       Test the breakaway switch for proper operation.

·       Test all running lamps, turn signals, stop lamps, etc., as well as antennas, entry steps and all accessories.

·       Road test for proper brake modulation and handling. Take note of strange noises, vibrations and abnormalities with steering and handling while towing.

Final Thought

Review the owner’s manual to verify nothing was left out of the spring shakedown procedures. Only when thoroughly satisfied nothing is amiss, load that refer, pack that gear and get that rig on the road! And remember, RVing is more than a hobby, it’s a lifestyle!

RV Tow Wiring

I own a 2005 Newmar Dutch Star. On a recent trip I noted that the left turn signal and brake light on my towed auto was not working when connected to the motorhome. The turn signal on both the motorhome and the car work fine independently. A check of the electrical connection between the motorhome and the auto indicates no power to the left turn/brake light pin on the motorhome connector. I am searching for the cause but there are huge bundles of wires and I am trying to avoid unwrapping them all. My questions: Do motorhomes have in-line fuses for the towing electrical connector? Are the towing electrical connections paralleled with the motorhome stop and turn signals? Are crimp connectors usually used? I did find a connector or fuse holder that looked like it had reset switches but I did not reconnect the connector nor do I know how to reset or replace the fuses if there are any.
Henry, (Pensacola, FL)

Henry, I suspect the problem is likely to found at the multi-pin connector itself. I’m assuming you have a typical six or 7-pin connector on the motorhome. All the wires from the connector are spliced directly into the coach circuits. Typically there are no fuses or breakers involved in the harness itself, but certainly each of those circuits in the motorhome are protected somewhere.

Perhaps the left turn pin on the connector is dirty, corroded or otherwise not making a good contact. Looking at the connector on the motorhome equipped with a standard 7-pin connector, the left turn pin is the one at the 9 o’clock position. Probe this pin for power while the left turn signal is activated. I would probably measure the actual voltage at that connection in case there is some voltage drop to consider. If the connection or contact is dirty or corroded it may be necessary to clean or burnish the contact before obtaining a reliable measurement. You can use a small screwdriver or dental pick to carefully scrape any debris off the contacts. Also make sure all the pins make solid contact with the towed vehicle plug. Make sure that all the internal plug connectors are not bent thereby minimizing the actual metal-to-metal contact. If they are bent too far, carefully move them back into position with a small screwdriver. Do the same with the towed vehicle end of the 7-pin connector.

Remember, when looking at the car end of the harness, the pin locations will be reversed so the left turn pin will be at the 3 o’clock position. In case the problem does lie elsewhere, you will need to trace the wire going from the coach wiring harness to the 7-pin connector. Tow harness are usually tapped into existing circuits (paralleled) using some type of solderless connection. These connections can sometimes become faulty, especially when they are exposed to the elements under the motorhome. In some cases it’s actually easier running a new wire than trying to locate a fault. Especially if it involves unwrapping some thick harnesses! I’d spend a few minutes diagnosing where the problem might be, and then simply run a new wire by tapping into the left turn circuit at the rear of the lamp assembly.

Broken 5th Wheel Springs

I had to replace the two front springs on my fifth-wheel travel trailer. They both broke and bent and now it appears the entire load is on the front axle and tires. Is there a way to adjust the springs to equalize the load? Any tips on what to check out? Walter, (Calgary, ONT)

Walter, since I discerned your problem may be a weight issue, I presented your question to the Executive Director of the RV Safety and Education Foundation, (www.rvsafety.com), Walter Cannon. They specialize in weight and safety education with all types of recreation vehicles. Here's what he had to say:

"There is no definitive way to adjust the equalization on the front or rear springs on your towable Walter, other than by hitch or pin adjustments,I.E., raise the nose and weight will transfer rearward. Take care not to get too far out of level! Another option is to move the load in the trailer to a more equitable positioning. My first suggestion would be to check the installation very carefully; I have often seen the rockers (mounted between the springs), get stuck in position. Or perhaps they were just not installed properly to begin with. Another possibility is the new springs are physically different than the existing rear springs. All said, if both front springs broke there is indeed a weight safety issue. Perhaps the addition of an aftermarket air suspension system may help, but until each specific wheel position weight measurement can be obtained, I cannot ascertain the severity of the problem or recommend a definitive course of action."

By the way, the RVSEF is sponsoring a RV Lifestyle, Education & Safety Conference to be held in Bowling Green, KY in June. I've mentioned it here before, but for details, go to:

http://www.rvsafety.com/LESClinic.html

I hope to see many RV Doc readers at the conference!

RV Slideout Pump Oil

What kind of hydraulic oil do you use in the slide-out pump?
Joe, (Fostoria, OH)

Hey Joe, I do like those quick, to-the-point questions! Always use Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) in your slide-out pump. Most slideout and leveling jack pumps use ATF. Any other fluid, including hydraulic jack fluid, is not recommended by those manufacturers I've contacted. Anything other than ATF could even damage the seals.

Motorhome Hydraulic Levelers

I'm fairly new to RVing and I bought a 31-foot Class A motorhome that has the HWH hydraulic leveling system. My question is: I live in Upstate, NY and the winters are pretty fierce here. I store my motorhome in a 35-foot carport (RV port) and would like to know if when storing my rig in the winter, should I have the jacks down to take the weight off from the tires or is this not good for the leveling system? It’s just not possible to move the rig in the winter to change the tire position.
Michael, (Fulton, NY)

Michael, it is indeed permissible to extend the HWH hydraulic levelers during any period of non-use. Another reason why I’m a fan of HWH. Just be sure to wipe down each leveler before retraction in case moisture, dirt or debris has gathered during the time it was under the carport. It’s always commendable to remove the weight on the tires during a storage period if possible, just don’t extend the levelers enough to raise the tires completely off the ground. Just take a little weight off them and you’ll be fine. And be sure to check the level of the fluid in the reservoir too!