RV Water Heater Electric Heating Element Trouble

In our motorhome, the electric portion of the water heater has quit working. The gas works normally. Other than gaining access through the bottom or via the round marine type access hole, how do you gain sufficient working access to reach the 120-volt heater and thermostat on the back of the water heater tank? The two options that I have considered are removing the complete water heater or cutting a larger rectangular hole surrounding the round hole with the screw out cover.
Leon, (Belleville, ON)

Leon, indeed it can be challenging finding easy access to some components. I’ll never forget the time I had to completely remove the windshield of a motorhome in order to replace the refrigerator! Gotta love those floor plan design teams, huh? The bottom line is that, if indeed the heating element needs to be replaced, it will be necessary to gain access somehow. Let’s look at the two options you mentioned.

First, to remove the water heater itself, you’ll have to break the LP tubing connection, plus both the hot and cold water lines after draining the water heater. And you will have some water to mop up too! You’ll have requisite leak tests (LP and water) to perform after you replace the element and reinstall the water heater. Plus resealing the installation. Sounds like a lot of trouble.

I think enlarging the existing access hole is your easiest option. But I would first verify that indeed the heating element is faulty. You can use a VOM to measure the resistance. You probably have a 1400-watt element, therefore the resistance measurement should be a little over 10 Ohms between the two contacts on the heating element. Also measure the resistance between each of the two probes and the case or base of the element. Any reading there will indicate a short in the element. A shorted or open heating element will mandate a replacement. Be sure to use the correct replacement part if indeed yours is faulty. Keep in mind, the problem could very well be caused by the thermostat, the limit switch or the off/on switch as well as the power supply, so don’t be too quick to condemn the heating element without taking some measurements first.

Temperamental Brake Controller

I have an electric brake problem that I am hoping you may be able to shed some light on. I have a 30-foot Jayco travel trailer being towed by a 1999 Chevy Suburban using a time-delay brake controller. I started having a problem with the braking, where braking would be intermittent (work and not work), with the controller reporting an overload (shorted) condition in the brake circuit. Thinking the controller, I replaced it under warranty, and had a second shop verify the wiring on the truck. After doing this, the problem persisted. Checking impedance between the blue wire and the white wire on the trailer harness connector, in an attempt to see if I had a short in the electric brake circuit, I consistently get .8 to 1 ohm. I expected to see more, but I don't really know what is considered normal. Being that things appear to be pointing to a shorted condition, supported by the controller error, I am guessing that if the controller did not have an overload function that I would be blowing fuses and/or popping a breaker. My axle documentation suggests testing voltages at each brake while the trailer is connected. I am hoping to avoid this. Am I remotely looking in the right direction, or am I chasing a non-existent problem in my examination of the trailer-side brake circuit (white to blue) impedance review? Your thoughts on this problem are appreciated.
Mark, (Saginaw, MI)

Each brake magnet will draw about 2.5 – 3.0 amps Mark, depending on the size of the brakes. You’re measurement of about 1 ohm for a four-brake system is pretty close to what it should be. However, I would recommend a complete brake inspection at each brake assembly. Look for worn insulation on any magnet wire where they pass through the backing plates.

I would also consider an ill-adjusted controller to be a contributing factor. I’m not a big fan of the timer-based controllers, but I do know they are typically a little temperamental to set up correctly. Without a complete inspection, I’d suspect that the timing function of that type of controller is not quick enough to respond to the additional braking voltage required by your trailer configuration.

I’ve sent you a recent article that may help. It covers the basic maintenance and troubleshooting procedures for electric brakes. It also contains a section on properly setting up the controller. See what you think and let me know how it turns out.

(Anyone interested in receiving a copy of Gary’s article, Trailer Brake Maintenance, simply send a pre-stamped, self-addressed, long envelope to: Bunzer Consulting, Inc. PO Box 19562, Seattle, WA 98109.

RV Trailer Towing Made Easy!

I inherited an EAZ-Hitch with a used 32-foot trailer I had bought. I had always hooked up the chain links after setting the hitch on the ball and completely lowering the trailer tongue jack. Then I saw an RVer raise his hitch back up after locking the ball and receiver before he locked his chains from the EAZ-Hitch, so I started doing that too, making it a much better ride. Then this last winter I was discussing that situation with a "seasoned" RVer and he told me that I should raise the hitch as high as I could before locking the chains from the hitch. What is the proper protocol?
Lew, (Bearcreek, MT)

Lew, here’s how I recommend the procedure. I first suggest you take a couple of measurements of the tow vehicle while it is positioned on level ground. You don’t even need the trailer for this. Measure and make note of the distance between the ground and the front bumper on the tow vehicle.

Next, measure the distance between the ground and the rear bumper. Write down these two measurements. As you hitch up, with the trailer fully loaded as it will be when travelling, lower the trailer onto the ball and lock the coupler. Then raise the tongue jack again while the two are still connected.

Raise both units above the level plane so that an apex of sorts is manifested at the ball. As you’ve noticed, this makes it much easier to attach the spring bars. Insert the spring bars into the sockets of the ball mount. Make sure they are locked in place. The brackets for the chain end of the spring bars should already be attached to the A-frame. To verify the correct location of the brackets, hold the chain straight up, making sure there are no twists in the chain. The chain should be centered on the bracket and the bracket attachment screw should only be finger tight. This is important.

The next step will require a little experimentation to find which link in the chain to attach to the brackets. Pick one link and position it on the hook or in the slot. Using the assist handle, lift up on the arm of the bracket until it snaps into place, putting tension on the spring bar. Move the safety wire over the top of the arm. Repeat this procedure on the other side using the same link on that side. Now, lower the tongue jack until all the weight is on the hitch assembly. By adjusting the number of chain links up or down, the road height of both vehicles can be adjusted.

Here’s the key; the correct adjustment of the spring bars is attained, (you are on the right link), when the difference between the measurements taken before connecting the trailer, (from the ground to the bumpers), and the measurements taken after locking the spring bars in place, is within a half inch of each other.

Also, when viewed from the side, the spring bars should be parallel with the bottom of the A-frame and the chains should be straight up and down. It may take a few tries to identify the correct link to use, and once you find it, be sure to use the same link each time. Subsequent connecting of the trailer and tow vehicle will now be quite easy. So, your 'seasoned' RVer was mostly correct, the higher you raise both the trailer and the rear of the tow vehicle, the easier it is to connect the link. But remember, you'll be using the same link each time so that the trailer and tow vehicle ride as level as possible.

Faulty Monitor Readings

What can you tell me about the sensors in my black holding tank? It reads full all the time and I know it isn't. All the other sensors work (grey tank, fresh water, propane, battery). Is there an easy fix or can it be fixed without replacement? I am very mechanically inclined and am sure I can fix it if I knew what to look for. Thank you!
Keith, (Mill Hall, PA)

Well Keith, what I can tell you is that I get a ton of emails regarding your exact problem! So much so, I've researched a new product available to all RVers. Please see my review of the Horst Miracle Probes here.

(Note: the original response to Keith was edited in the spirit of consolidation here on the RV Doctor Website).

More about Squirrels

I need some help with a little problem. After a recent camping trip I discovered that squirrels had been in the engine compartment of my vehicle and had eaten through some of the wiring. The dealership that repairs my vehicle is giving me a $200.00 estimate to repair the damage the squirrels caused. It seems there is no absolute solution to this problem. I called the campground where this occurred to advise them and to let campers know what happened to me. Please help! Do you have a solution that works?
Oscar, (Los Angeles, CA)

Oscar, remember, determining the cause of the problem of critter infestation is just as important as preventing the problem, if not more so. There are three crucial requirements to attract and sustain unwanted guests; food, water and a secure route between the food source and their nesting places. Begin by eliminating any source of food or standing water near your RV. Be sure to clean up any food or liquid spills inside and outside the RV completely. Avoid placing open containers of pet food in or around the RV. Refrain from feeding the birds around your campsite. Good housekeeping practices can eliminate one and possibly two of their requirements. This is your best defense since, unfortunately, it’s nigh impossible to fully secure the engine compartment of any motorhome.

As for ridding the rig of existing guests, live traps can be purchased or rented. Check with a local pet store for availability. I am not in favor of commercial poisons for the obvious reasons associated with children, pets and recreation vehicles. Additionally, I do not favor the home brews such as carbonated soda, etc. Though I personally have not tested one, I have heard of great results using electronic pest eliminators which emit pulsating, ultrasonic sound waves that affect the nervous system of the animal making it uncomfortable for them to be around. These electronic devices are harmless to humans and domestic pets. Some are powered by 9-volt dry cell batteries, while some are 120-volt AC powered. This might be your best defense when visiting that particular campground.