Keep RV Tires on a Firm Foundation

Love your articles and I have learned so much from you. I have a 2013 Itasca. Being relatively new it does have hydraulic stabilizers which do level it, but right now it is parked in my driveway which has an incline to the road. I want to be able to use if when family comes to visit, but I am trying to figure out how to get it level. The front is probably sitting 10” to 12“ lower than the back. I was told, or read in the manual for the stabilizers, that you should never lift the RV up so high that the tires leave the ground. So I don’t think I can use them to level it. I saw your article about making ramps out of treated 2” lumber and wondered if you thought that would work for me? I would probably have to use six,  2x10 pieces, each a little longer than the first. Also, is it better to raise the front end or the rear? I assume the front since there is only one set of tires. Thanks so much for your help. (Carol B.)

 
 Carol, indeed those tapered leveling blocks are your best bet. As well as raising the front axle only. Never allow the tires to leave the ground, especially the rear tires. The emergency brake must be engaged and the transmission in Park, both of which affect the drive axle, so keep those rear tires on the ground.

 
Send me a picture once you build the blocks. Above is a shot of another reader’s set-up. Notice the “stop” block on the very top. Don’t risk running off the top block and damaging sidewall or frame components.


##rvt752 

Keep Those RV Tires Clean and Dry

You have taught me so much over the years, thank you. You have discussed every aspect of vehicle care, including the importance of taking proper care of the RV tires. In some of those articles, it has been mentioned that something should separate your tires from the concrete. Would you be kind enough to either tell me, or make mention of it in one of your columns, the type of material that should be used? Harry A. (Smyrna, TN)

Harry, if you’ve ever attended one of my seminars, you know I’m a big proponent of keeping moisture, dirt and grime from accumulating on RV tires as well as preserving and protecting them from ozone and the UV rays of the sun during periods of non-use. Sure, they’ll get dirty while traveling, but be sure to wash them with a mild detergent the soonest you can after coming off the road. Applying a protectant such as 303 to help preserve and protect the rubber will also go a long way. 

Not so much on concrete, but when parked on asphalt, it’s advisable to have a barrier between the tires and the surface of the asphalt. Though wooden blocking is often used to separate the tires from the asphalt as well as to lift that corner of the motorhome, I also favor a separation between the wooden blocks and the tires to avoid excessive moisture and/or heat build-up. Plastic, web-like blocks are readily available in the aftermarket that allows you to accomplish this. The accompanying photo shows such a separating block. There are many on the market, but look for the type that will drain and not trap moisture. 

##rvt754; WP; ##RVT858

Time for Tires

Well it has come time to buy new tires for our 2004 Allegro Bus. Is replacing them with the same Michelin 275/80 R22.5 XZA2, really necessary? Or are there any other tires from other brands that you would recommend? George B., (Saugus, CA)

Because your question can be construed as of a subjective nature George, I decided to also get an opinion from one of the top experts in tire information and safety, Walter Cannon of the RV Safety & Education Foundation (RVSEF). Here’s what he had to say:

“It is important to stay with the same size and Load Range (Load Range is not given in this question). We always recommend staying with a brand you are familiar with, but there is no reason one cannot change brands, just not the size. If the performance of the Michelin has been satisfactory then I would see no reason to change.”

And I fully concur with Walter. All things being equal (size, load range, weight rating, wheel spacing, etc.), it is permissible to change brands. Many RVers do so to save money on tires that may be “on sale.” But be sure to check the age code on the sidewall prior to the purchase. It is important that new tires be truly “new.” It has been reported that many tires available at the retail level, though not used, may have been warehoused or stored for a lengthy period of time prior to being sold. Remember, it’s the actual date of manufacture that is important to you, even though the warranty time begins typically at the time of installation. 

Bent or Mispositioned Trailer Axle

I have a 2009 Montana 2980. I keep wearing out the left rear tire, about 2 inches of the inside like the camber is out of spec. The rest of it looks like new, about 8000 miles or less on it and all of other 3 tires look like new. I had it in the dealer where I bought it in Wisconsin just before my warranty was over and they couldn't find anything wrong with it but Keystone did give me a new tire and sent me on my way. I keep check on my air so I know that's not it. I wore another tire out in about the same amount of miles and am starting on my third one while the rest still look like new. Keystone had me take it to another shop and they told Keystone the axle was bent 2 feet in from that wheel. They claimed that I hit something with it. I know I didn't, so when I got the trailer home I put a straight edge on the axle and I checked the same on the front axle and they both come out with the camber on it, so I know that it is not bent there. This has done this with different rims so that is not it either. I do have another appointment with the dealer where I had it the first time but I don't know if it is going to do any good or not as they couldn't find anything wrong the first time. Please let me know if you can help me with this problem. The type of tire is a Goodyear Marathon 235/80/R 16 rated E. Thanks! Ervin P., (Seattle, WA)

So sorry to hear about your tire wear problem Ervin. That CAN get expensive if not corrected. Couple things...I'm attaching some Dexter Axle info sheets that may help your shop determine if that axle is indeed installed properly. There's an info sheet plus an installation guide. Also, you can request the actual service manual for your axles by going to this page on the Dexter site. 

It's quite possible the hub assembly and backing plate have been mis-positioned, probably during the initial installation, but it will require a detailed inspection and close measurements to be sure. That's why I'm hoping the installation guide will be helpful for a knowledgeable troubleshooter to verify.

I'm sure you're aware, but be sure the tire is inflated to the proper air pressure based solely on the weight that tire is carrying. A number of weight measurements are required to determine exactly how much weight each tire is supporting. Let me know if you need guidance for weighing your rig.

But after a close inspection and some crucial measurements, a good tech should be able to determine the cause of your uneven tire wear. I don't think the tire itself is the issue unless the inflation is incorrect for the amount of weight it is carrying. I'm guessing it's something peculiar to your trailer and that axle. Something in that alignment is just not correct. Of course, I know you're already aware of that! 

Seeking Less Expensive Tires

I am planning on replacing the six tires on my 25-foot Class C motorhome. Presently I have Michelin X-Radial All Season, LT225/75R16 LRE purchased in 2004 on there. I do like the ride and the tires have held up very well, especially the sidewalls. But these tires have doubled in cost since then! Are there less costly, but equally performing tires you can recommend? Larry, (Mission Viejo, CA) 

For tire issues specifically Larry, I like to seek the advice from the preeminent tire expert in the RV Industry, Walter Cannon at the RV Safety & Education Foundation. I sent your question to him and here’s his response:

Tire brand recommendations are always tough, everyone has their favorite. You will never go wrong with the Michelin; however Bridgestone/Firestone, Goodyear and many others make equally good tires. In the 16” size there are many choices so just stay with a brand you recognize and make sure you keep with the ‘Load Range E.’ Many tire dealers are not as familiar with RV usage as they should be! Hope this helps. Walter

I would further add, be sure to check the DOT code on the sidewalls to determine the actual date of manufacture prior to the purchase, regardless of the brand you choose. When shopping by price, be sure the least expensive are not simply priced that way because of their age! Check out this post...

Name That Brand

 
A lot has been said about RV tires and the spray protectants we all use, but with all the choices out there, which ones don't have the bad stuff in them? Can someone find out what is in them? What is the good one and why won't anyone name the brands? There are a lot in the stores. Bob M., (CA)



Bob, most all tire manufacturers say no to any protectant or additive that contains any petro-chemical. In fact, they say just keep the tires clean. The natural action of driving will keep the built-in protectants migrating to the surface; enough for adequate protection. The problem is, RVers rarely drive enough for those protectants to actually work as designed. 

If an aftermarket product doesn’t state all contents specifically on the label, one option is to contact the supplier and ask for an MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet). Some MSDS documents are available online. The MSDS should indicate the specifics of that concoction. Personally I like 303 Protectant since it does not contain a petroleum product and it simply works. I quite looking after obtaining the 303, but I’m sure there has to be viable competition with comparable products out there somewhere. But as I often state, why change horses in mid-stream? I’ll stick with the 303.
 

Why Synthetic Blocks Under Tires?

In an edition of your RV Doctor Newsletter, you said to use non-absorbing, synthetic blocks under the footprint of the tires when parked asphalt. Would you explain why? Don B., (North Las Vegas, NV) 

I do tend to favor blocking under the tires, Don, to raise them up off whatever surface you store the rig on, especially if it’s stored on asphalt. Simply put, petro-chemicals can be damaging to rubber components. Using the plastic blocks keeps the tires dry and out of contact with the asphalt. I’m not a fan of wood blocking for long-term storage since wood has a tendency to absorb and hold moisture. The less moisture, the less chance of mold and mildew to develop and grow. Moisture can also attract and sustain certain critters and if I’m away from the coach, I’d rather it be high and dry. Granted, the advantage might be subtle and likely immeasurable, but old habits are just hard to break.

##RVT845

Why Do I Need New Tires On My RV?

I am thinking of buying a used Monaco motorhome. It has 8,270 miles on it. The owner says it requires new tires. Why would it need new tires with so few miles? George, (Calgary, Canada)

Welcome to the world of RV tires George, where mileage is more likely less a consideration than the age of the tire. In fact, RV tires rarely wear out. Typically they will “age” out first. To know the exact age of the tires on that motorhome, check out the DOT date code embedded into the sidewall of the tires. Because RV tires rarely wear out, it is important to know exactly when the tires were made. Though warranty begins at the time of purchase, the effective life of the tire begins as soon as it is made. The DOT safety code is used to determine the date a tire was manufactured.

The importance of reading and understanding the last four digits of the DOT code on tires made since 2000 cannot be overstated. As an example, if the full DOT Code is: DOT U2LL LMLR5107, the last four digits represent the actual date of manufacture. The first two (of those four), indicate the week, the last two, the year. So 5107 means that tire was manufactured during the 51st week of 2007.

Though RV tires may be capable of lasting much longer, all experts agree the effective life of an RV tire is approximately 5-7 years, depending on how much ozone and UV damage it has incurred, along with your particular driving habits. When in doubt, have one of the tires de-mounted and inspected on the inside by a tire expert. A good tire expert will be able to tell if that tire has hit a curb, been punctured and repaired, run under or over inflated, has weakened sidewalls, etc. They all leave their tell-tale indicators on the inside of the tire.

Check out this interesting and related post.

 
Also, study the great information posted on the official web site of the RV Safety & Education Foundation; www.rvsafety.com.

Two Flat Tires - One on Each Side of the RV

I have two flat tires on my RV, one on each side. How do I change tires on a travel trailer? How do I jack the trailer up to change the tire? Or is there a better way? Willie B., (Gulfport, MS)

Well a better way for me Willie, is to call one of my son-in-laws and have them do the work! But here's the next best idea...

Loosen the lugs on both wheels holding the flat tires while the trailer is on the ground. Always jack the trailer on the main frame rails only; never on the axle. As you raise the trailer, the suspension will relax and sag. Once the tires are off the ground, support the trailer on weight-appropriate (sized correctly) jack stands and remove/replace the tire assembly.

Always use safety jack stands. Do not allow the jack to maintain the weight while the coach is in the air. Chock the opposite side tires and be sure the tongue jack stays on the ground during the entire process. Change the tire on one side first, then the other side.

It’s best to use a floor jack, but a bottle jack is workable if it can be supported underneath and has enough reach to raise the tires off the ground. In some cases, you might have to use wood cribbing to build up the jack placement. It’s doable, but a hefty floor jack is better.

It's also wise to find out exactly what caused the flat tires. If there's no obvious cause (nail, faulty tire valve, etc.), a tire expert can inspect the inside of the tire casing and determine the exact cause of the failure; a little tire CSI! The main causes of tire failure are under inflation and overloading. Evidence will show if either contributed to the flats. You'll certainly want to rectify an issue if you possibly can, so as not to repeat the scenario in the future! 

##RVT825; ##RVT906

Motorhome Tire Squeal

We have a 35-foot Sunova with a Blue Ox tow bar system. The "towed" is a 2006 Jeep Liberty Sport automatic transmission, 4x4, equipped with a Brake Buddy. The system is great, easy to use and the Jeep tows great when we are on the highway. In normal turns and maneuvering it is also great. However, on some bends in the road like traffic circles, highway on/off ramps, etc., we hear what sounds like a loud tire squeal (like tires when brakes are locked). The brake system is not engaging and the steering is not locking on the towed vehicle. It has occurred both when braking and when not braking the motorhome. There are no visible signs of rubbing or tire wear and no smell of burning rubber; just the loud noise. I've talked with Blue Ox support, done Internet searches and spoke with other people who tow vehicles and no one has ever heard of this. I went over the installation with Blue Ox and it is totally within their specifications. My rear camera does not show anything out of the ordinary when this occurs, and it is very intermittent so I can't say exactly what conditions might cause it. Any suggestions how to isolate this and/or ideas of what it could be? Bob D., (Toms River, NJ)

I have to say, Bob, you've stumped me also. I've not heard of this exact problem. Do you feel any type of subtle tug; as if the Jeep brakes suddenly, but for an instant? I can only offer a couple of suggestions. First, be sure the Jeep's front end is in alignment and all tires (on both vehicles) are pressurized according to the weight they are carrying. Be sure to include any cargo you stow in the Jeep while towing. And secondly, to maybe pinpoint it better, have someone ride in the Jeep while you're towing and turning. Be sure this is permitted based on local restrictions, however. But having someone in the Jeep, even if just in a big parking lot, will quickly determine if the noise is emanating from the Jeep or from the motorhome. This is indeed a puzzler! Let me know what you find out!

Follow-up: Hi Gary! Actually, you were correct; it turned out to be the front-end alignment. I spoke with a knowledgeable service manager for the local Itasca dealer. He immediately said alignment when I described the symptoms; sent me to the tire shop he dealt with and they found the right front toe was out. Not enough to show a problem when driving or during normal cornering, but enough to make the Jeep track wide in turns when towed. This was even news to the folks at Blue Ox. Right now I can still hear a little tire squeal if I have to do a tight S-turn; sort of like bending around to the left in a traffic circle, then having to counter-steer to move right to exit the circle. I just know now to take them a little slower. The folks at Blue Ox said for that I should try to attach two bungee cords to hold the steering wheel centered. On small smart cars, the wheels run all over the place while towing straight so the bungees are needed for that. But for the Jeep, it might help it return to center quicker so it can make the counter-turn in the opposite direction.

There you go Bob! Glad it all worked out.

Uneven Tire Wear on Travel Trailer

I noticed that my travel trailer tires seemed to be wearing unevenly side to side. I measured to ground, the side with the most tire wear and it is about 3/4-inch lower to the ground than the other side. This is after replacing all the tires and checking inflation. I then weighed both sides of the trailer and found that the side with the most tire wear was about 500 pounds more. This is the side where the refrigerator is directly over the tires. We presently have over 15,000 miles on the trailer. Is there anything we can do to make the trailer level. I know because of the design there is little that can be done to equalize the weight side to side. Jim, (North Augusta, SC)

Jim, first of all, congratulations! You are well on your way to better balance and longer tire life simply by becoming aware of weight and balance issues. One question I have is; how was the 500 pound difference determined? The only way to determine the left – right loading is by individual wheel scales (per NHTSA). Without individual load measurements we'd only be guessing and may not pinpoint the correct fix for your issue. Weighing RV’s on a flat (platform) scale has proven to be inaccurate at best (again by NHTSA). Using individual scale readings is the only way we can determine the exact cause of your issue, since every RV is different.

I do need to ask if the heavy side is exceeding a tire rating or the axle rating? This would necessitate a more aggressive action if so.

I would look for items I could move to help the balance. Every little thing adds up and remember, just 50 pounds going to the other side equals a 100 pound difference; -50 pounds on one side and +50 pounds on the other, we are now 100 pounds closer to being balanced.

The RV Safety & Education Foundation recommends inflating trailer tires to the sidewall inflation pressure unless we have individual wheel position weights to work with. A one-inch difference in ride height on a trailer is not very much, considering the big picture, but simply adding a band-aid to make the unit level will not cure the load issue. The heavy side will still be the heavy side though it will simply appear to sit level.
 

Another cause for the difference could be what's called "spring sag." When vehicles remain loaded over a period of time, the springs will take a ‘set’ and the heavier side would be more dramatic than the lighter side. With a trailer that has had a 500 pound higher load on one side for several years and many miles, you can understand the consequences, right? This is, however, not a difficult or expensive issue to address; simply install new springs. Just be sure the shop is reputable and installs the proper rated springs.

Balancing the load and having the correct inflation pressures will have the most positive effect on tire wear, however, all the issues you bring up will contribute to uneven tire wear.

##RVT822; ##RVT902

Nitrogen vs. Compressed Air

I recently bought new tires for my RV and they came filled with nitrogen. My question is, if I need air while on a trip, can I get the air replaced with nitrogen or do I just use air from then on? What are the pros and cons? Roland P. (Phoenix, AZ)

Roland, as with many things relating to tires and weight safety, I often ask my friend Walter Cannon to chime in from time to time, just to make sure we're on the same page. Especially in those gray areas like the topic of nitrogen in RV tires. Walter is the Executive Director of the RV Safety & Education Foundation (www.rvsafety.com), a non-profit agency dedicated to helping all facets of the RV Industry. Here's what Walter had to say:

Roland's question is quite typical during discussions of the use of nitrogen in RV tires. Let's start with the importance of maintaining proper air pressure. It is far more important to keep the proper air pressure in the tires than whether you use nitrogen or air. The air we breath is nearly 80% nitrogen, so adding air to a tire that requires more pressure will not dilute the nitrogen that much.

Nitrogen pros:
The process of extracting nitrogen from the air makes it very dry. This is a positive attribute as moisture holds heat and the nitrogen filled tire will cool faster.
 

Nitrogen molecules are larger (3X) than oxygen so the natural migration of air through the tire will be much slower.

Cons;
Cost and Availability.

The bottom line is that nitrogen is a good product but refrain from buying into the "better mileage" or "longer life" of the tire. Just be sure to always maintain the proper pressure and check it often.
   

Broken Weld on Travel Trailer Wheel

A friend of mine had a travel trailer wheel split at the weld while traveling in Canada. When he got back in the States, he spoke with a man who said that the chrome wheels that come with the load range G tires cannot handle the sideway pressure exerted by the tires. He called me and told me about this since I have load range G tires on our Jayco coach with what appears to be aluminum wheels. Is there any validity to the claim about the weld? Phil E., (Sioux Falls, SD)

Phil, I posed your question to Walter Cannon, Executive Director of the RV Safety and Education Foundation, one of the foremost experts on tires and RV safety. Here's what he had to say:  

"Having a weld brake although not common, does happen. Trailers are simply hard on tires and wheels. Whenever there are axles close together the lateral forces applied to the tires and wheels when turning are tremendous. This is particularly true when turning at low speeds like in campgrounds and in-town driving. Inflating trailer tires to the sidewall pressure will help them run cooler with less heat buildup as well as minimize the lateral forces applied in tight turn situations. These forces take their toll on the wheels and tires and failure will normally occur when the tire and wheel are at their highest temperature, i.e. running at highway speeds. Tires and wheels are matched to work together, in most cases this is based on air pressure ratings, if tires upgraded from an 80psi (load range E) to the 120psi (load range G) without upgrading wheels it could cause a problem. There is little one can do about the sideways forces other than to try to make as wide and smooth low speed turns as possible and avoid sharp tight turns. Aluminum wheels are normally milled from a solid block and do not experience the same type of problems as welded steel wheels."

Hope this helps!

Safely Jacking Up a Travel Trailer

I have a Keystone Zeppelin, 24-foot travel trailer with tandem axles. I would like to know the best way to get all four wheels off the ground at the same time to service wheels, besides rolling onto blocks to get one axle at a time. The axle owner's manual says not to jack on the axles. Where is the best place to jack and block for wheel service? David L. (Cumming, GA)

David, in my shop, if I couldn’t get the entire RV onto a hoist, I would only jack one side of the trailer at a time. Perform the service at each axle on that one side, then move to the other side. I would jack only on the main frame rail and allow the suspension to hang until both tires were clear of the shop floor. I would then lower that side onto appropriate, (read: weight capable), safety jack stands. Then simply repeat the process on the other side. For any RV being raised up with a floor jack, it’s much safer to always have at least two tires (or one side), safely on the ground at all times. Remember, safety first, the time element, second! 

##RVT816 

RV Travel Trailer Tires - US vs. Imports

I have a question and I'm hoping that you can answer it. Why can't I find a trailer (ST) tire that is not made in China? I know that some US made ST tires can still have a problem of holding up to the task but I'm sure we all know the Chinese made tires are not very good at all, I know this from some bad experience running on them plus their was a major recall on Chinese made tires not too long ago. I know that I would shell out some more dollars for a safer tire, wouldn't you? Michael J. (San Diego, CA)

Michael, since specialty tires are seemingly always a hot topic in the RV realm, I posed your question to Walter Cannon, the Executive Director of the RVSEF, (RV Safety & Education Foundation). Walter is the leading expert concerning tires, weights and RVs. Here's his response:

My best suggestion is to try Goodyear, Marathon or Carlisle tires. These companies make ST tires but you might want to verify that they are indeed made in the U.S. Depending on the exact tire size, some trailer manufacturers are opting for LT tires which are more widely available. Should you have any more questions, please let me know. Walter Cannon.

Gary's Note: Walter can be reached at staff@rvsafety.com.

 

Problematic Imported RV Tires

We have a Keystone Laredo which came with Mission tires. Within three days we had two tires fail. One had a bubble and the other blew out five miles from home while heading to the mountains. It did damage the trailer. Tireco, (the parent company), will not cover the damage. They say the tire that blew had impact/road hazard damage. I don't believe this at all. We had 50% of the tires go bad on this RV in three days. They did pay for the bubbled tire. I see on the web that there are numerous complaints regarding these tires. Can you, or any reader give me information on these tires, or what recourse we have? Louise C., (Kernersville, NC)

Sorry to hear about your problems with the Mission tires Louise; you evidently are not alone. Check the size of your tires and see if they are on the formal Recall notice. There have been many reported problems with these imported tires; the blogs of full of comments regarding them. Here’s an article that was posted back in 2007 that you might find interesting.

According to some, it simply is not worth the risk to continue using a Mission tire. Most have simply switched to one of the better made US tires and have not looked back. I’ve not heard many positive comments regarding Tireco as well.

I wish I had better news for you, but from a safety perspective, it would be wise to simply replace all the Mission tires with a US-made tire. From my research, it is much better to be safe and absorb the cost than to risk damage or injury. If possible, save and store the old tires in case an opportunity for a rebate or refund becomes a reality.  

Also, understand how vital it is to know the true weight each tire is actually carrying! Individual weight measurements taken at each tire position, using a certified scale, is the only, I repeat, the only way to know how much to inflate each tire. It's also the only way to know if an axle is overloaded to one side. The most common cause of tire failure in the RV industry is a combination of under-inflation and overloading. You must weigh it to know it! Regardless of the brand of tire.

I strongly suggest RVers everywhere contact the Recreation Vehicle Safety and Education Foundation (RVSEF) to inquire about their coach weighing schedule and other weight and safety educational products. RVSEF is the only independent facility fully endorsed by RVIA and RVDA. Visit them at: www.rvsafety.com.

 

RV Damage Due to Tire Failure

I have a Class B motor home and was driving down the highway when the rubber from the rear outside tire flew off and took out the insulation and cabinet bottom, water lines and a host of other things. As the stuffing flew out, it caught something underneath on the other side and knocked out the floor under my bathroom cabinet. Is this common or did I just have a bit of bad luck. I would really appreciate knowing while I wait to see what the insurance company has to say. Cory, (Omaha, NE) 

Cory, I would have to say that you indeed had a case of bad luck with that tire separation. The damage caused by a separating tire can either be minimal or much worse in many cases. Road speed, type of coach construction, how large the pieces were, etc., all plays a part. I’d hazard that no two instances will be identical. I would, however, caution you to be sure and let the insurance company know that every system, propane, battery, 120-volt AC, fresh water plumbing, waste water plumbing, etc., will need to be fully tested after all the physical construction repairs are completed. It’s not simply a matter of rebuilding the structural components. There may be unseen damage that can only be revealed through a series of tests on each of the systems.

Plus it's important to fully analyze why that tire failed in the first place! Have a professional service technician or tire safety expert conduct a thorough investigation to determine the cause. Overloading, improper air pressure, faulty tire or other failed equipment may have been the cause and a close inspection is a mandate against further complications later on.

This might be a good time to remind everyone about the great work performed by the RV Safety & Education Foundation (RVSEF). My good friend, Walter Cannon, heads that organization and is the leading expert in tires, weights and safety for all RVs. Be sure to check out the information posted here.

Nitrogen for Motorhome Tires

Hi, we love your web site but have one question. We are using nitrogen in our motorhome tires but have trouble finding places where we can get it to fill up the coach or the car. Is there any way we can find a place online that will list the tire centers that have nitrogen for motorhomes? S&S (On the road) 

Sandy and Sonny, though I'm not aware of any published listing of nitrogen dealers, there is a website that has a Dealer Locator by zip code. Check out this site. 

If you look to lower right-hand side of this page you’ll see a “Dealer Locator” box. Simply type in the zip code and it will reveal the closest location for a nitrogen dispensing dealer. I found 48 different locations within 100 miles of my own zip code. 

If you know where you are now and where you’re headed, you should be able to locate one near you relatively easily.

Travel Trailer Tires

It's time to replace my trailer tires. Installed from the factory are LT235R85/16's. I've been told to get those LT tires off there and replace them with ST tires. If ST rated tires are the best for trailer service, why did the manufacturer use LT rated tires? We have a 34-foot Montana 5th wheel rated at 12,100 pounds. I've heard good and bad about both types of tires. What’s the real story on this question? Leonard, (Kansas City, MO)

Leonard, LT stands for “Light Truck”, ST stands for “Special Trailer.” Although both tires are rated for trailer use, there are distinct differences. For passenger tires (including LT tires), ride, traction, and handling are the key design elements and are all achieved primarily by adding flex to the sidewall. This maximizes tread contact with the road, thus increasing traction and allowing the driver to maintain better control over the vehicle. For trailers, sidewall flexing is not a desired effect because it can be a cause of trailer sway. The stiffer sidewalls and higher operating pressures common with ST tires helps control and reduce the occurrence of trailer sway.

For travel trailers, it is important to match the tires to the application and payload. Since ST tires are constructed with heavier materials, they are tougher and more bruise resistant than typical passenger car tires. This is a plus because trailer suspension systems are generally stiffer and less sophisticated than automotive suspension systems. A tire designed to operate in the more demanding trailer environment will provide you with longer service life and be able to withstand the added abuse trailer tires tend to be subject to.

Bottom line, trailers are more stable and pull better on tires designed specifically for trailer use and I recommend that you switch to the ST type. The manufacturer likely used LT tires because they too are rated for trailer use and are simply cheaper than ST tires.

RV Tire Valve Extenders

Enjoyed the show this morning; (speaking about a live Webcast on 1/23/10). One question that keeps coming up and as of yet have not heard a definitive solution. Valve extenders for dual rear tires. I even saw the same question by one of the online viewers so; I know that I am not the only one confused. I know I have to switch to stainless stems but, what type of extender. I've heard pros and cons for woven and solid. I am just stumped. What do you recommend. I've also heard that if you use extenders, you are just adding more places for leaks due to abrasion. See my consternation? Help. Nancy, (San Francisco, CA)

Thanks for tuning in Nancy! I did see that question pop up on my monitor; I just didn't have time to get to it. This question comes up quite often and if you ask three different people, you'll get four different responses!

But I do believe the braided extenders are better than simple rubber. It's good you have the stainless stems; that will minimize the potential for leaks. Though no extender will be totally void of the risk of air leaks, the stainless braided type seem to leak less. Since extenders are almost a mandate for dual rear tires, I'd go with the braided stainless.

Here's what you can do....add a little thread sealant such as Lock-tite to the male threads of the stems before tightening the extender. And give the knurled knob of the extender a little more rotation...not too much, but perhaps 1/8 - 1/4 turn past finger tight. And be sure to check the air pressure quite regularly just to be safe.