Lippert Slideout Adjustment

Can you explain the adjustment sequence on how far the slides go in and out with my Lippert slideout? The manual just says to adjust the jam nuts, but not which way. Paul. B. 

Paul, I checked with the Customer Service Manager at Lippert and evidently they’ve edited that user’s guide you sent me, to make it a little clearer about those adjusting nuts. As it states below, you move nuts C and B in relationship to the bracket in order to effectuate a good seal. 

 Adjusting room so it seals in the IN position
1. Locate cylinder coming through the frame.
2. Run room partially out.
3. Hold jam nut (Fig. 4A) in place with wrench.
4. Adjust Nylock nut (Fig. 4C) towards the bracket if the room does not seal. Adjust the Nylock nut (Fig. 4C) away from the bracket if the room is too tight and damages the fascia.
 
NOTE: Make small adjustments, running the room in after each adjustment until proper seal is achieved.

Adjusting room so it seals in the OUT position
1. Locate cylinder coming through the frame.
2. Extend room completely out.
3. Check the inside fascia and seal positioning.
4. Partially retract room.
5. Loosen and back off jam nut (Fig. 4A) from nut (Fig. 4B) to give nut (Fig. 4B) room for adjustment.
6. Adjust nut (Fig. 4B) away from the bracket if the room extends too far and damages the inside fascia. Adjust nut (Fig. 4B) towards the bracket if the room does not seal.
 
NOTE: Make small adjustments, running the room out after each adjustment until proper seal is achieved.
 
7. Tighten jam nut (Fig. 4A) to nut (Fig. 4B).

NOTE: 2" to 3" of free travel is normal.

##RVT785;##RVT932

 

Slideout Valve Leaking

I own a 2011 Cedar Creek Silverback 5th Wheel Model 29 RE. I am leaking hydraulic fluid from the slideout selector valves (Triple Hydraulic Slide-Out Room IRC Assembly). My dealership tells me that I need to replace the entire assembly at a cost of $173.09 per valve. Is there another way to fix this? Please advise. Raymond S., (Cinnaminson, NJ)

Raymond, you can purchase the entire assembly directly from Lippert and save a bunch. Here’s the order page from their website.

You’d still have installation costs, but it shouldn’t be too much to replace the entire assembly as a unit I don’t believe individual components are available since they test and verify each assembly as a completed unit. There would be no way to guarantee the parts and pieces individually since it relies so much on installation/repair techniques of the technician. Plus I’m a firm believer in the safety factor as well. It's better to get the whole assembly, tested as complete.
 

Sticky RV Slideout Solenoid

I'm a 70 year old retired Air Force veteran and I desperately need your input. I have a 1998 5th wheel RV with a slideout living room. My problem is that there must be a relay some where that is sticking when I attempt to close the slideout. I have talked to numerous RV repair shops, even the factory themselves, and no one can help me. When it is coming in, it does not want to stop when I release the switch. The In and Out switch is okay. It has a Dewalt hydraulic pump that operates the slideout. It is one that you can electrically bring the slide in or you can manually pump it in. Could the pump itself have the relay inside of it? Your help will be most appreciated. J.R.M, USAF Retired

First of all, thank you for your service J. R.! Without knowing the brand and model number of your particular slideout drive mechanism, it's hard to tell with 100% certainty what the problem might be, but it sounds like the hydraulic solenoid valve itself may be sticking. The battery switch solenoid might be mounted right on the pump itself. This was typical back then. It will likely be cylindrical and silver in color as well. It is wired between the coach battery and the pump motor and is activated by the slide switch. Such solenoids had a tendency to stick as they age. 

My recommendation would be to locate the pump and then identify the solenoid. It should be a generic battery type solenoid, so you can get a replacement at your local auto parts or RV store. Just make sure the replacement is made for heavy duty applications. They are inexpensive, so if you are not adept at bench testing the solenoid itself, I recommend you replace this part first and see if that eliminates your problem. If this does not fix the problem, then I suspect a hydraulic valve spool or another of the solenoids is sticking. This could be due to dirt stuck in the valve. In this case, you will have to take your coach to an experienced RV service facility to inspect, clean, and/or replace these pump components. It takes specific expertise to perform services on the internals of the pump assembly, unfortunately. 

##rvt756; ##RVT856





 

Leaky RV Slideout

We purchased a 2004 coach three months ago. From the moment we got it the slideout has leaked. It has leaked so bad that the wood trim around the interior of the slide out has all been removed due to mold and the laminate on the dinette table is all buckled. My husband tried to put some sealant on the top of the slideout but it did not work. This is the first RV we have owned with a slideout and we are just beside ourselves. I am pregnant and my daughter is four; the last thing we need is mold around us. Do you have any suggestions on how to fix the slide out and where we would go to get replacement trim? We tried the dealership that we purchased it from that claimed to have a "rigorous leak detection test before release to a buyer" and they told us it just happens. So any advice on where we would start would be great! We just want to enjoy RVing without the "money pit" effect we currently have. Chris A. (Georgetown, MA)

Chris, I’m so sorry to hear about your slideout leak. Water intrusion is indeed the number one maintenance consideration with any RV and as you’ve found out, can be quite difficult to rectify. It’s important to locate the actual entrance point of the water. Assuming the leak is at slideout and not coming from a point above it, there are four possible locations along the room. The first thing would be to check the integrity of the slideout seals on both sides, the top and the bottom of the slideout. Remember, it must remain leak-free in two positions; with the room retracted and extended. Another procedure is to have the slideout mechanism checked for proper operation. Ensure the slide moves in and out evenly without it “crab-walking” its way in or out. It’s quite possible that it’s time to replace all the seals on the slideout. 

Was there any warranty offered when you purchased the coach? It’s apparent your dealer isn’t willing to accommodate you in any way without charging you. But check your warranty or other guarantees that may have been included in the purchase. You may have recourse there. It’s paramount a certified RV service tech inspect and rectify that leak as quickly as possible. Unattended, the leak will only get worse and more structural damage is likely. I wish I had better news, but barring any structural deficiencies in the room itself, it’s apparent the seals have failed and that they are in need of replacing. 

##rvt758; ##RVT855

Slideout Fabric(ating)

I have a 2003 Safari Zanzibar and want to redo the fabric around the slideout edges. It appears that the few screws on the front are not the only ones holding this trim on. Are they also attached from the back? How do I get to them? I enjoy your column. We have been RVing since 1967. Keep up the good work! King F., (Anderson, SC) 

Wow, that’s a tough one without seeing it firsthand King. I’m guessing the fabric was installed prior to the slide room being inserted into the opening in the sidewall. It’s not uncommon for the room to be completely assembled independently of the RV, then slid into place and connected. 

Perhaps if you partially retracted the room you can use a mirror to look behind the fascia to see if there are other fasteners holding it in place. Or maybe send a few photos so I can get some idea of what the situation actually looks like. That would be my best guess without seeing in in person, unfortunately.  

UPDATE!
King's latest response:  Gary thanks for you insight. As you suggested, I pulled in a slide part way and found that there were no screws on the back side, so I removed all the exterior screws and the molding came right off. I guess I should have tried this first before bothering you. We have already finished reupholstering all 11 pieces and reinstalled them. They look as good as original. If anyone asks, it was quite easy and no sewing involved but lots of staples! Thanks again for your insight and excellent information to all us RV'ers. King

PS: This our 9th motorhome in the past 43 years and I do 80-90% of all maintenance on them. 

Gary's Response:
Way to go! That's why you're the King! 
   

A Leaky RV Slideout... Really?

We have a 2009 Monaco and have had a leak in the bedroom slide from the very beginning. They found one leak in the beginning but then Monaco went out of business and we can't find anyone to help us. It takes about an hour or so for the water to start dripping in on the floor and it will continue to drip three hours after it stops raining. I just keep putting rolled up towels and it will soak them. We can see it dripping in but can't find out where it is coming from. If you have any ideas please let us know. We have enjoyed your seminars in Hershey, we come every year. I guess we should have ask you in person but didn't want to take up your  time. Thank you in advance for any help that you may give us. Gary & Linda B., (Wooster, OH)

Gary and Linda, sight unseen, this is a tough one! Slideouts remain inherently difficult to keep leak-proof forever. There has to be enough clearance for the room to slide in and out, yet gaskets and seals should be positioned to effectively wipe away moisture and keep water out whether the room is extended, retracted and all points in between. All slideouts are adjustable and it sounds like re-centering the room and adjusting the slide stops may be in order. As well as checking the integrity of the seals. Unfortunately, it will have to be looked at by a certified shop to be sure. It does not have to be a Monaco dealer by the way; just a good technician with slideout experience. If you don’t mind a short trip up to Willoughby, I can recommend a shop up there.

Sorry I can’t offer much else without actually taking a look and taking a few measurements. Let me know in Hershey this year how it works out for you.

##RVT834;##RVT915 

Manual Override for RV Slideout Room

I have a 2011 Jayco trailer with a slide. The owner's manual states that the slide can be manually operated in an emergency but doesn't say how.  Could you help me with this? Paul G., (Panama City, FL)

Here you go Paul....

MANUALLY OVERRIDING YOUR SLIDEOUT SYSTEM

Your Power Gear slideout system is equipped with a manual override that allows you to extend or retract the room in the event of a loss of power.

NOTE: If the room does not move when the switch is pressed, check the following:

   • make sure the slideout system is turned on

   • battery is fully charged and connected

   • the transit bars are removed (if so equipped).

   • After the previous items have been checked and the room still does not move when

     the slideout switch is pressed, follow these simple steps to manually override your

     slideout room.

1. Turn ‘OFF’ the on/off switch or key (if so equipped). NOTE: The override will not work if the switch is turned on.

2. Locate the slideout electrical controller (refer to your dealer or RV manufacturer for location). There are (2) versions of the controller. For version 1, unplug the (6) pin wiring harness from the controller. For version 2, remove one of the motor leads, either the motor I or motor II lead from the controller.

3. Locate the slideout motor. It will be mounted to one of the slideout rails.

NOTE: If the RV has an underbelly or a cover over the motor, these parts must be removed to access the motor.

4. Rotate the brake lever, on the backside of the motor, counter-clockwise (looking from the rear of the motor) about 1/8 of a turn to the released position. This will release the brake that holds the room in place.

5. Locate the manual override for the slideout system.

6. The room is now free to move. Using either a 5/8” or 3/4” wrench or socket, crank the room either in or out completely (depending on your needs). 

NOTE: If the slideout system is supplied with a gearbox override (optional), use the crank handle to move the room.

7. When the room is fully in (or out) apply pressure to the wrench/ratchet and return the brake lever to its engaged position. This will ensure the room is locked into a sealed position.

8. Install the transit bars to the slideout room (if so equipped) and take the unit to an authorized dealer for service.

Warning!

WHEN THE MOTOR BRAKE IS DISENGAGED THE SLIDEOUT ROOM WILL NOT

LOCK INTO PLACE; THEREFORE, THE ROOM WILL NOT BE SEALED. WHEN THE

ROOM HAS BEEN MANUALLY RETRACTED, BE SURE TO INSTALL THE TRANSIT

BARS (IF SO EQUIPPED) AND RETURN THE MOTOR BRAKE LEVER TO ITS

NORMAL ENGAGED POSITION IN ORDER TO SEAL AND LOCK THE ROOM INTO

POSITION.

##RVT831;##RVT912 

Leaky Slideout

I’m a single woman and have a Fleetwood Bounder. When it rains and I bring the slideout in and I un-level the motorhome, water from on the top of the slideout comes pouring into the rig. My RV dealer says this is normal. It's quite a bit of water and others I know do not have this issue. Shouldn't there be a seal to stop the water from coming in? Linda F., (Centennial, CO)

 

Linda, indeed this is not a “normal” situation. It appears that dealer is either misinformed or disingenuous. There should be a wiper seal around the slide room opening that should remove most of the water as the room is retracted. In some cases, it may not remove absolutely all the moisture, but it certainly should wipe most of it away as the room retracts. Apparently, the room needs adjusting or the seals need to be replaced. Have a certified RV service technician inspect the centering and all the adjustment points on the slideout. In a worst-case scenario, an aftermarket topper awning can be installed that will protect the room’s top surface when extended. It will extend and retract with the room. It’s an advantageous add-on device since it will also keep the room cooler in the summer as well. But I’m not buying the “normal” claim of that dealer.

##RVT828; ##RVT908

RV Slideout Manual Override - Where Is It?

We have a 27-foot Gulf Stream Streamlight trailer with a small slideout. The manual states that there is a manual override to retract the slideout in the event that the electric motor fails. We cannot locate the "emergency device." We even had a technician look with no luck. The motor is located in the middle of the sofa but there is no access to it. Any thoughts? John E., (Hartsel, CO)

John, the slideout motor used in the Streamlight brand is produced by Lippert, one of the largest providers of slideout mechanisms. All Lippert electric motors have an extended shaft with a cross pin that can be manipulated by hand to extend or retract a slide room manually. Some models may be equipped with a hex shaft in which case a ¾-inch box end wrench can be used. 

On your coach, below the sofa you'll find a kick plate covered with a fabric. There will be either two or more, medallion-like decorative pieces on that kick plate. They pop off easily with a flat blade screwdriver and then you'll see the attaching screws. Once you remove those screws, the kick plate will come off and you'll have clear access to the slide motor. Lippert ships a flexible adapter with each unit that can engage the shaft of the assembly in order to turn it by hand; probably the “emergency device” you mention. If you don't have that adapter, one can probably be easily fashioned. I'm not sure which direction you rotate the shaft, but you'll be able to tell once you start. Just be sure to only manipulate it by hand. 

##RVT826; ##RVT907

Why RV Service Technician Certification is Important!

I am very frustrated! I just purchased a used coach and I have had no problems so far until this week. I left for about four days and when I came back I noticed a wet spot on the floor in the corner near the slideout and under the fridge. I often stay at a resort site and have asked several other owners about pressure regulators as I only had a trickle of water and they didn't use one so I took it off a week ago. I checked under all the sinks and saw no problems then went on my trip. I called a mobile RV repair person who came out this afternoon and didn't even let me tell him about my pressure theory, but announced that my slideout was leaking and that all slideouts have the potential to leak and when it rains the slideout should be retracted. That makes no sense to me at all. He told me to put silver tape over the rubber seams and left without charging me. I hooked my water back up and checked it about two hours later and it was wetter then before. I looked under the back left area of the rig where I am speaking of but the underbelly is enclosed. I pushed up on the belly and water started dripping. I don't know how to get in there to look at anything. It is not pouring but dripping. I still think there is some small hole in line where the fresh water enters the coach behind the white compartment where you hook up the city water hose. Any ideas? Linda M. (Lacey, WA)

Linda, I hear your frustration and it frustrates me greatly that some incompetent service technicians are simply not good troubleshooters! The first step, as a troubleshooter, is to listen to the customer for crying out loud! Now maybe the slideout seals were indeed leaking (that is a problem with some designs), but taping over the seal is most certainly NOT a viable repair tactic. And he wanted YOU to do it! Incredible! 

It’s also apparent that you still have a leak in the fresh water system; maybe not a hole, but quite simply a leak at a connection caused by the wracking and twisting of the coach as it travels down the road. As for pressure regulation, I always recommend a regulator if the incoming city pressure exceeds around 65 PSI. Perhaps the maintenance person at the resort will actually measure the city pressure at your site to determine if the regulator is truly necessary. But it certainly would not hurt to always use an in-line regulator.

Still, it is apparent a seeping leak still exists and must be located and repaired before structural damage occurs. Mold and mildew are also a concern if left unattended. There should definitely be no water retention in between the floor and sub-floor, ever. It’s paramount you have a certified RV service technician inspect, diagnose and repair the leak(s) as soon as possible. Leak repairs should not be that difficult to diagnose with the proper testing equipment. It can be determined in a matter of fifteen minutes IF a leak exists. The repair however, may be more difficult to effectuate, but a quick diagnosis could lead to a quicker repair. Try to locate a service facility in your area that employs Certified or Master Certified service technicians. The Industry Certification awarded by RVIA and RVDA means that technician has been tested and is qualified to perform professional RV troubleshooting and subsequent repairs. Look for the certification patch (see photo), on any RV technician working on your RV or ask to see their certification prior to authorizing repair work.

##RVT892

RV Out of Warranty

Our Crossroads Seville has four slideouts and it's only about four years old and already two of the four slides have malfunctioned and not opened. I think this is a bit too soon for this type of repair expense. Should we see if the manufacturer will back the repairs or is there a maintenance procedure that we could be doing to keep them operating easier? Sandi T. (Fostoria, OH)

Sandi, it’s doubtful the dealer or the manufacturer will be of much help, financially, on a coach approaching four years old (most warranties term out at 12 months). But it certainly cannot hurt to ask! A sincere letter or email to the manufacturer may be the best approach. It all depends on which components actually malfunctioned. There are some RV-owner maintenance procedures mandated by most manufacturers, but typically they involve cleaning, lubricating and taking care not to overload the slide room mechanisms. 

Also, check to be sure you do not have an applicable extended warranty or service agreement, either from the dealer or a 3rd party vendor. Additionally, look online for any recall notices that may apply to your unit or the maker of the slide mechanism. But let me know what actually failed with those two rooms.  

Noisy RV Slideout

Our 2007 Winnebago has a living room/dinette booth slide that makes a loud groaning or growling noise when sliding.  It has a little bit of a jiggle back and forth along the front edge as it comes in. It did not do that for a while when it was new and we did buy it new. We have tried some cans of stuff recommended by a local RV shop here but it didn't help.  Last week we stopped by our dealer and we were told, "well some of them do that." "It could cost a lot to have it fixed."  And they were wanting to sell us a newer model (diesel). We said no. This noise would wake up any close-by neighbors in an RV park if we were doing an in or out of the slide and we want it nice and quiet again. The bedroom slide does NOT do this. It is nice and quiet. Yes, it is a smaller slide. Any suggestions on what to do? How can we fix or troubleshoot the problem? It works fine, just is noisy. Doug & Rose, (Cheyenne,WY)

Well, Doug and Rose, it's apparent your dealer isn't too interested in helping, but I do believe your situation warrants a detailed inspection by a qualified service technician; one who is RVIA/RVDA certified. And obviously one who is interested in truly helping you!

It's quite possible you have a couple of issues. One, a misaligned slide room. There are multiple adjustments the pro techs can do to eliminate alignment problems, (see photo), but unfortunately, most are not for the typical RV handyperson. Some even require specialty equipment. One thing you can check; the lubrication of the slideout mechanism. Grinding or groaning noises can be attributable to either the wrong grease being used or simply not enough lubrication or possible binding. Improper lube can attract dirt and road grime resulting in noisy operation and worn components. A lot depends also on the type of slideout mechanism that powers that room. If you can see and access the gears, clean them thoroughly and then apply a dry lubrication. I've had great success with Protect All Slideout Lube. A dry lube will not attract and trap damaging contaminants.

That brings up the third possibility, simply a worn mechanism. Again, a pro technician should be able to quickly diagnose the problem with a first-hand inspection and a few tests. Although only a few years old, a heavier-than-normal room may prematurely wear out the gears, especially if the incorrect lubrication is used.

RVT737

RV Slideout Pump Oil

What kind of hydraulic oil do you use in the slide-out pump?
Joe, (Fostoria, OH)

Hey Joe, I do like those quick, to-the-point questions! Always use Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) in your slide-out pump. Most slideout and leveling jack pumps use ATF. Any other fluid, including hydraulic jack fluid, is not recommended by those manufacturers I've contacted. Anything other than ATF could even damage the seals.

RV slides barely moving

We have just purchased a 2005 coach with three slides, which have rack and pinion electric mechanisms. The large living room slide lifted up awkwardly, went out less than half way and made loud noises. We put it in and tried again and it would only go out half way and made both clunking and clicking noises. The top (of the room) was barely out and the bottom was way out of whack. We tried lubricating it but it seemed to get worse. Now it makes loud clicking noises only and barely moves at all. It sounds like the gears are out of sync. Is there a way of fixing this without waiting and trying to find a repair shop? We are on the road full-time.
Rick, (Westbank, BC)

Sorry to hear that Rick, I wish I could be more encouraging, but unfortunately due to the complexity of slideout mechanisms and room adjustments, I’m at a disadvantage without seeing it with my own eyeballs. Any attempt to adjust slide mechanisms and troubleshoot operational errors should only occur after a complete inspection. And quite frankly, oftentimes repairs cannot be performed in the field. Specialty equipment may be needed in order to effectuate a complete repair. I would, however, suggest you contact a certified mobile RV tech if one is available where you are currently located. There is a chance he might be able to unbind the mechanism, barring any physical problem with broken gears or and issue with the motor itself. Also, the proper troubleshooting strategy depends on the manufacturer of the slideout mechanism; some are proprietary. Perhaps it is nothing more serious than a physical binding or a simple alignment issue. Wish I had more encouraging news, but unfortunately these types of repairs are not usually for the Do-It-Yourselfer.

RV slideouts: In or Out?

As I drive about I keep noticing RVs stored in driveways and yards with the slideouts out. Is this the preferred or correct way to store an RV for extended periods?
Jay, (Blue Ridge, TX)

Jay, I am not a proponent of leaving the slide rooms out during storage. Perhaps many of the units you’ve seen belong to owners who are actually using the RV while at home? I recommend that each slide be brought in during any extended period of non-use. When left out, dirt, leaves, debris, etc., can all gather on the roof sections creating a mess and inviting water intrusion. Plus rubber slide seals can dry out and become cracked. Even if the room is equipped with a topper awning; why subject it to the elements when not necessary? Additionally, depending on the type of slide mechanism, exposure during non-use can corrode moving components. I suggest keeping them in the travel position during storage.

Slideout Won't Budge

Our bedroom slideout failed to close completely and then would not move at all. The motor was taken apart and found that a holding pin was broken. This was replaced and the slide moved out when the power button was pushed. All of a sudden, a large thump was heard, then the slideout would not move in or out. Could this be a broken tooth on the gear? It is taking us a very long time to get an appointment to have this looked at for repair. Do you have any idea what has happened to the slide mechanism?
Pam, (Franklin, NC)

Pam, unfortunately, without actually inspecting the slide mechanism and drive unit, it is impossible to tell exactly what happened. And a lot depends on the manufacturer of the slide mechanism. There are quite a few variations out there, produced by different makers using different types of slide mechanisms. If you could identify the manufacturer of the slide out unit, not the RV, it may be possible to ascertain some information as to what may have broken. But the best diagnosis can only be made after a visual inspection. Wish I could be more helpful. (This is the most frustrating part about this job).

Slideout Blows Fuse

While closing my slides I found the main (30A) fuse blown. I returned home and replaced the fuse and set up the coach and plugged into my AC source and opened up both of them. We had some bad weather coming through our area so I went out to close the slides and the main fuse was blown again! I replaced the fuse after opening the slides and it was okay. My book doesn't show an electrical diagram for the circuits and I am lost. Neither time could I smell any type of smell indicating bad wiring.
Randy, (Lake Charles, LA)

Couple of things to check Randy. Be sure you have a healthy battery in the system. A sulfated battery may have some internal arcing that could cause a heavy fuse like that to blow. Also, look for any resistance to the movement of either slide. Check the slide mechanism closely for corrosion, binding, rust, debris, etc. Any perceived drag on the movement could cause the fuse to blow. Lastly, check the battery wiring connections, especially on the ground side of that circuit.

I’m not aware of any inherent deficiencies with your coach, but in some cases an undersized ground cable anywhere in the circuit could cause overheating which could also blow the fuse. You can eliminate the slide mechanism and the mechanics of the system by using a fresh battery connected directly to the slide circuit. If it works fine independent of the coach, the problem is in the wiring. If it still blows fuses, chances are there is a mechanical binding in the components somewhere.

Slide Malfunction

I have a Holiday Rambler with a 12-foot slideout. It uses a rack and pinion drive but the bottom of the frame is covered so it’s hard to see or get to. Many times the unit just clicks after deploying the switch when trying to extend out or retract in. Using the manual crank to move the slide a few inches will then enable the electric motor to drive the slide in or out the rest of the way. It almost sounds like a paw or some part not engaging correctly and it’s the same sound as when the motor drives the slide all the way in or out, like a mechanical overrun stop device clicking. Is this adjustable to solve the problem or is this a wear problem?
Bud, (Jamestown, NY)

Bud, let’s consider three possible causes to your symptoms. The first is that the transmission on the slideout motor is set too loose. The second is that the motor itself is wearing out and the third is that the slideout is jamming somewhere along its travel length. Since you are able to move the slide using the hand crank we can likely rule out binding. If the slide were binding the hand crank would be very difficult or impossible to turn, at least in places.

Just as a check, use the crank to extend and retract the slideout fully a few times. Verify that the cranking action is even throughout the entire length of the travel. Since the hand crank uses the same transport system as the motor, this will tell you if there is a problem with any of the slide mechanisms. If there are any points during cranking where the slide skips, jams, or binds, or the tension on the crank becomes uneven then there is a problem with the mechanism or an obstruction and you’ll need to get it checked.

The problem could also be related to the slideout topper awning. The awning torsional springs could be sticking or damaged at one or both ends of the travel of the slide. Once again, the hand crank test should be able to rule this one out.

Do a quick visual check of the slideout and surrounding area to make sure nothing obvious is obstructing the travel. Have someone watch the slideout and awning when you activate the switch to see if there are any obvious sources of binding that might cause the motor to stall. If the slide travel seems fine, then I suspect the motor/transmission assembly is the problem. Either the clutch in the transmission is set a little too loose or the torque on the motor is weak. If it is either, replace the entire assembly. The motor and transmission assembly should have an electrical plug attached and that should be unplugged before attempting to remove the motor. The motor will be secured with two or four screws and will likely have a pin that locks the motor to the slideout shaft. Remove this pin and the screws and the entire assembly should easily drop out.

Maintain That Slide

We are buying a new 39-foot RV with two slideouts. Can you give some tips on what I should keep in mind for maintenance for these slideouts?
Robert, (Auburn Hills, MI)

Thankfully, Robert, there is not an extensive list of maintenance tasks required on most slide units. Obviously keep your eye on the top and side room seals, making sure they are engaged when the room is extended and retracted. There are a few aftermarket products available now for keeping the seals cleaned and maintained such as Protect All’s Slide-Out Rubber Seal Treatment. Features like built-in UV protection, water repelling and anti-static characteristics make it the best resource for proactive care for all slide seals.

Keep the slide mechanisms clean and dry, regardless of the type employed on your rig. Never use a moist lubricant like WD-40 on slide mechanisms; always use a dry lubricant to avoid attracting dust and dirt. Use the dry lube on all the exposed metal components. Protect All also makes a great dry lube.

Always inspect the roof of the slide-out prior to retracting the room after any extended stay. You’ll want to avoid dragging bird droppings, dirt and leaves or other debris into the RV on the roof section.

If yours are hydraulic slides, be sure to monitor the fluid level and to periodically inspect all the hoses and fittings. Be sure each room “tracks” properly and that both sides extend and retract at the same pace. If either room is equipped with LP, electrical or plumbing umbilicals, insure their integrity from time to time. And most importantly, keep the battery charged!

Slippin' Slideout

Why does my slideout room keep moving even when I release the switch? Last year they worked fine, now when I release the switch I hear a motor spinning and the room keeps moving. Is there trouble with the solenoid switch on the motor?
John, (Stoughton, MA)

John, with such a plethora of slideout mechanisms found today, it depends solely on the actual design of the slide mechanism. But if the problem is not evident with every slideout on the motorhome, chances are it’s an individual stop mechanism out of adjustment. I doubt it would be the activating solenoid since the rooms do indeed slide in and out. Rather, it sounds more like a micro switch is out of position for that particular room. Keep in mind; this is just an educated guess made without knowing the actual make and model of the slide assembly.

There are some adjustments that can be performed by the RVer as long as the manufacturer provided the troubleshooting literature. If you have doubts about tackling this yourself, or if you do not have thorough troubleshooting documentation, contact the manufacturer of the slide mechanism, (not the coach maker), and ask for a referral. They all will have a list of dealers and service facilities familiar with their products. Once you find a service facility in your geographical area, I would call ahead to be sure that shop employs technicians experienced with that make of slideout.