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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #348 Dear RV Doc, I have a 1969 Apache pop-up that I am trying to bring back from the dead. I have a question on electrical power. I would like to keep the 12-volt DC and 120-volt AC systems separate. I am thinking that I can take a 30-amp shoreline cord to a 30-amp breaker and then run wires for the outlets from there. I would like to power a small refrigerator, heater and maybe a small home air conditioning unit, then I would use the 12-volt battery system to power the lights. Also I have the original heater that can be run off battery power, but I have heard that the old ones are not safe. Mike Wedin, (Denver, CO)
Mike, when rewiring an older RV, even a pop-up, it's vital to always keep the AC separate from the DC. The two electrical systems are not compatible for obvious reasons. The 30-amp shoreline cord must terminate at a "J" box or at the AC panelboard distribution panelboard (breaker box). The incoming AC power first goes through the 30-amp main breaker, but then you'll have to have individual branch circuits, also protected by breakers. For a small RV like yours, I would recommend you have one breaker for all the 120-volt receptacles and one dedicated breaker for just the air conditioner. Though I've seen small window air conditioners mounted in RVs, they look awkward and certainly are not manufactured to travel down the road. Instead I'd proffer using a small RV roof-mounted air conditioner; assuming you have sufficient roof supporting. In addition, I would recommend a separate circuit breaker for the AC to DC converter/battery charger. The converter is that electrical hub where AC meets DC in an RV. Besides powering everything 12-volt DC in the camper, (lights, fans, furnace, etc.) the converter/charger will keep the battery charged whenever you plug into shore power. All DC circuits must also be individually protected by 12-volt fuses or breakers as well. There is a rigid code and standards that should be followed. The National Electrical Code (NEC) should be used as a reference. As far as the furnace is concerned, indeed some of those older furnaces were prone to combustion chamber failure. But if it's been properly maintained and all things LP have been checked out (possible leaks, delivery line pressure, cleaning and servicing, correct operation, etc.), then older appliances are fine to use though parts acquisitioning may be more difficult; especially with your particular vintage. In light of the improved technology and efficiency of the units available today, I'd seriously consider upgrading to a newer, lighter furnace. Your project is doable, but safety practices must be followed. If you don't have specific electrical experience, you might consider having a pro RV technician give you a hand. All in all, sounds like a fun project!
Dear Gary, I am a first-time travel trailer owner, having recently purchased a several-owner used 1973 Go-Tag-Along. I can only find one waste water dump valve, which is located on the larger waste pipe directly beneath the toilet. Another smaller diameter pipe is connected below that T-handle, so whenever I run the shower or the two sinks the water does not appear to go to a gray water holding tank, but discharges below the black water valve. Is it possible that there is a gray water holding tank with some other type of shutoff device? Sam Pennartz, (Wyoming, PA)
Wow, a '69 and a '73! This must be the month for all the oldies but goodies out there. So indicative of well preserved and cared for RVs! Indeed Sam, it's likely your new acquisition only has that single, black water (toilet) holding tank. It was later in that decade when it became popular for RVs to have the luxury of a gray water waste tank as well. Years ago, it was common to allow gray water to simply drain onto the ground, but that is not permissible today in most locales. The options are to hook up a portable holding container to capture the gray water, but this requires you to manually remove and dump it when full. In some cases, an addition of a small gray water holding tank is possible if you have the space to put one. I'm guessing this is probably not feasible on your Go-Tag-Along. The third option is to plumb one of the gray water fixtures directly into the top of the existing black water tank. But this too is dependent on your space limitations, plus it's the least affirming option since it will require more-frequent evacuations of that holding tank. I'd probably opt for the external, portable waste tank. They are readily available at any Camping World store.
Dear Gary, I purchased a Road Master base plate and had Camping World install it on our 2000 Hyundai Elantra. Apparently they only make one style base plate for this car. Once mounted, the whole unit is only 5-inches from the pavement. When driving the car or towing it behind the RV, the base plate drags against the pavement when going in or out of a driveway. This is really a problem when going in and out of a gas station or over parking lot speed bumps. It would be a big expense to change the struts. Can anything be done to raise the front of the car so it won't bottom out? Don Marino, (Henderson, NV)
Don, I can surely empathize with you as can other RVers I'm sure. The noise of that assembly bottoming out has got to be one of the worst sounds you can encounter while traveling. The bad news; I have come to realize that not all stock base plates work on every model car produced today. In some instances, the lack of a suitable base plate makes towing that vehicle with all four wheels on the ground difficult if not impossible. The good news; there are aftermarket experts out there who have the ability to fabricate custom base plates for any small vehicle used as a "dingy." Some installations, in fact, are so slick that they are virtually unnoticeable when the car is not being towed. Far from the old days when having the "A" frame sticking straight up was a common sight. I'm not aware of any modifications that can be performed on the car itself. The other options are tow dolly or tow trailer, but obviously we know flat-towing the car is preferred. I wish I had better news, but other than a custom base plate, I'm afraid your choices are limited. I'm sending you the name of one such custom fabricator. Perhaps he can recommend someone in your area.
Dear Readers, in an earlier RV Doctor Column I addressed the issue of repairing an older fuel tank. I recommended a new container, citing the liability issues with repairing a used one. Many readers responded and indicated their success at having an old fuel container repaired rather than replaced. Below is a sampling of responses I received regarding Phil Rastocny's earlier question. Though I still recommend a new container, here's how successful repairs were made to other readers' rigs:
A very good option, especially for RVs with unusual tank designs is a system called Gas Tank Renu, which I believe is a franchised product. A dealer will remove and clean the tank, inside and out, before coating both sides with a patented product. The result is your tank was 'repaired' and is now plastic coated, and an exact fit. It also has a lifetime, nationwide warranty. The process is priced fairly, so that many vehicles, even those with replacement tanks readily available, could be coated for a lesser cost. Bill Zaker
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