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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #345 Dear RV Doctor, I need to install a pod on my Coachmen, Class C RV. I'm very limited in storage space (like none at all). How do I go about doing it? I consider myself to be a pretty good handyman but I could use your assistance. James King, (Murrieta, CA)
James, storage pods, those attached to the roof area, are relatively easy to install. The biggest risk is creating a water leak. But by taking a few precautionary steps, you should easily avoid that malady. First, find a suitable, flat location on the roof (an alternate location is on the rear bumper), be sure you have clear access to open it fully and comfortably. Make sure it does not interfere with roof vents, sewer vents, antennas and air conditioners. Also, be very wary of shading any solar panels you may have up there as well. If your coach is equipped with a soft roof, (non-laminated), your location choices are somewhat limited. The bottom section of the pod must span at least two roof rafters in order to secure it properly. But if you have a solid, laminated roof, just stay clear of the aforementioned components. Once you have a suitable location picked out, thoroughly clean the roof. It must be clean and dry before continuing. Obtain a handful of rubber grommets, (see photo). The grommets must be able to accept the thickness of the pod's shell in order to seal properly. The center hole in the grommet should be 1/4-inch in diameter. You'll need to drill holes in the pod bottom the same diameter as the width of the slot in the grommets. The grommets should slip into place snuggly and grip the bottom of the pod securely. Drill three of four holes, (depending on the overall size of the pod), in two rows through the bottom of the pod that correspond to the rafters you are spanning. If you have a solid roof, such exacting hole locations are not crucial. Next obtain some 1/4-inch fender washers and 1/4-inch lag screws about 1-inch long. Fender washers have an outside diameter larger than standard 1/4-inch flat washers. The outside diameter should be slightly larger than the outside diameter of the grommets. Mark the screw locations on the roof and pre-drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole at each screw location. Squirt a gob of silicone sealant directly over the 1/8-inch pilot holes and carefully lower the pod into place. Then simply install the lag screws and fender washers through the grommets and secure the pod to the roof. Do not over tighten the lag screws. They should, however, slightly depress the rubber grommets as they are tightened. There is no need to seal the head of the lag screws since they will be protected by the upper half of the pod, enclosed inside. But I do recommend placing a covering or two of duct tape over each head just to protect them a little when you place objects into the pod. Check the tightness every six months or so, just to be sure the rocking motion and shifting gear doesn't loosen them over time.
Dear Gary, I have a 1999 Fleetwood Bounder with an Onan generator. I had trouble with a section of rubber fuel line hose that was cracked near the generator itself. This was a relatively easy fix. However, a few months later I was unable to start my generator and found another section of cracked rubber fuel line that lays on top of the fuel tank. The fuel tank rests very close to the underside of the RV floor and I am unable to reach the stainless steel clamp to remove and replace the rubber fuel line from the metal section of fuel line going into the tank. Do you know of any easy way to accomplish this without dropping or lowering the fuel tank itself? Marshall Letter, (Walhalla, SC)
Marshall, you've picked up on one of the most common causes of generator operational problems on motorhomes. Rubber hoses are notorious for weather-checking and degradation via exposure to UV radiation and high ozone levels. As far as gaining access, some motorhomes, (and some early Bounders) had a removable access plate under the carpeting that corresponded to the location directly over the fuel sending unit and take-off tubes. It's not uncommon to find a 3-inch hole through the floor under the carpeting directly over the area you need to access. It's worth it, at least, to try to find that plate under the carpet. I'm not sure if this practice is still in place, but I'd give it a shot before having to drain and drop the fuel tank. If that access hole is not there, better start gathering a floor jack and some wood blocking; the tank will have to come down, at least part way.
Dear RV Doc, I replaced my propane regulator because the pilot for the water heater kept going out. When I disconnected the regulator an oily liquid poured out of it. Can you tell me what that liquid is, and where did it come from? Tom Clark, (Redwood City, RI)
Tom, that oily molasses-type gunk is a residue from a combination of effects happening within the LP container. Chances are your LP container had been almost drained completely at some point as well as overfilled at another point; and probably repeatedly overfilled. Moisture in the container and the remnants of the odorant used to enable LP to be "smelled" sometimes coagulate into that sticky mess when liquid LP is allowed to enter the regulator. This situation will quickly ruin the regulator. Remember LP is stored as a liquid, but utilized as a vapor. During an overfilled condition, liquid will be forced-fed into the regulator. If liquid is forced through the regulator and into the black iron pipe manifold it could eventually find its way to the appliances and cause real havoc. Have a qualified technician disassemble the output hose from the regulator back to where it meets the black iron manifold and inspect for that oily goo. If some is found, keep disassembling the piping until no residue is located. All affected pipes, tubing and/or hoses will have to be replaced. There is no effective way to clean out that mess. Hopefully your appliances are still functioning okay. Remember, never have the LP container topped off; never fill more than 80%. Most containers are now equipped with an OPD (overfill protection device), so, thankfully, this situation is not as pervasive as it was in the past.
Dear Doctor, where would I find the circuit breaker for my converter? I have shore power to the coach battery but none to the chassis battery. I know that there is a breaker for it, but I cannot locate it anywhere. Galen Smock, (Atalissa, IA)
Galen, some converters will have the AC panelboard and circuit breakers built in to the converter itself. Other motorhomes will have a separate panelboard distribution box mounted individually and isolated from the converter. It just depends on which brand of converter you're coach manufacturer utilized in the design of your rig. Circuit breakers will always be mounted in the distribution panelboard regardless if they are incorporated into the design of the converter or in a stand-alone panel. But rarely will the converter charge both the house DC system and the engine starting battery. Typically the engine battery only receives a charge from the alternator while driving. However, some of the newer, sophisticated, three-step chargers do have a separate charging circuit for the engine battery, (the converter pictured here actually has three separate charging outputs), but this is not usually the norm. Because the AC and DC systems are vastly different, the only common component between the shore power and the house battery system is the converter. You should find a 120-volt AC circuit breaker that protects the AC portion of the converter, and also a DC auto-resetting breaker that will protect the converter output, as well as fuses to protect each DC branch circuit. That AC breaker you are searching for will be inside the converter or at the separate panelboard distribution box. The DC breaker (or fuse) can be anywhere in the system. To find the converter, start by searching inside all the interior compartments or by listening for a clicking noise whenever the coach is plugged into shore power. The integral relay is sometimes audible as the system switches between battery power and converter power. Once found, look for the AC section (if a combo unit), or keep searching for that panelboard distribution box. It's there somewhere!
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