|
|
RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #344 Dear RV Doctor, we have just purchased a new 5th wheel, a Holiday Rambler Presidential, 36-footer and are looking into using a portable generator to power the air conditioning, microwave, water heater and the TV/satellite systems. The RV is not prepped for a generator and we are trying to determine if a portable generator carried in the truck bed is a reasonable option. Honda produces some super quiet models. Does this make sense? How would we adapt the power plug for RV use? Any suggestions and cautions would be appreciated. Bob Preisser, (Tampa, FL)
Bob, indeed many RVers make use of a portable generator to power various 120-volt AC RV appliances and accessories. The two complaints I hear the most are; noisy and cumbersome. Lots of users, however, are able to successfully reconcile these negatives and get by without the extended cost of a permanent installation. I recommend trying it for a season and then weighing the cost and convenience differences. You will have to add up the wattage of each device you wish to power and be sure the generator is sized correctly; that it can carry the load. Of course, you could always link two portable units together in order to ensure the proper capacity required by your rig. As long as the generator puts out 120-volt AC power at a regulated, 60-cycle frequency, there is nothing much to do except plug the RV shoreline cord directly into the generator. Though many portable generators will not come equipped with a 30-amp RV receptacle, you can simply use a quality adapter to effectuate the connection or have a qualified electrician swap out the plug on the generator.
Dear Gary, I recently purchased your RV Owner's Handbook to use with a 1993, 22-foot Itasca Class A motorhome. I would like to tow a small vehicle behind it but cannot find my GCWR? How might I determine this number? Who would I contact and do you have a phone number or e-mail address for them? Chris Valerio, (Sequim, WA)
Chris, most motorhome manufacturers from that era rarely (if ever), published a gross combined weight rating. The hitch installed on the Itasca will have a tow rating determined by the manufacturer of that hitch. If it was installed by Itasca at the time of manufacture, you should be able to contact their Service Department for the correct weight rating. You can contact Itasca at: 641-585-3535. If, however, the hitch was installed by the dealer or an aftermarket service shop, it may have a different rating altogether. It would take a visual inspection to determine the actual weight rating of a custom hitch installation. Motorhomes are indeed suitable for towing, especially boats or flat-towed cars, but the GCWR mainly pertains to specific tow vehicles like SUVs, autos and trucks. But I'm guessing that if your motorhome has any type of receiver hitch it will be more than able to safely tow a dinghy vehicle with all four tires on the ground. There is minimal hitch weight directly on the hitch when flat towing.
Dear RV Doctor, I have an older 1976 Nomad trailer I am trying to fix up. I would like to know if it is advisable to use 3/8-inch copper tubing for my stove/oven instead of 1/2-inch. It would only be about three feet long coming from the elbow that has a 1/2-inch line going to the tanks about ten feet away. Lastly, should I use all flared fittings instead of compression fittings on LP lines regardless of the size? Carl Davis, (Ft. Worth, TX)
Carl, contrary to today, most RVs from that time frame came equipped with 3/8-inch copper tubing for the LP distribution system. Of course, you'll also find black iron piping used for the main manifold with the copper branches to each appliance. To determine the correct size, you'll need to check the requirements of that range. It should be in the owner's manual. But unless you've upgraded the range to a newer model, you should be fine by using 3/8-inch. But only use SAE pipe fittings and flare fittings; compression fittings are not allowed in the LP delivery system. You will, however, find some compression fittings utilized internal to some LP appliances. But for manifolds and branch runs, you'll only find flare and pipe fittings. Just be sure to run a thorough LP leak test after replacing any component of the LP system.
Dear RV Doc, I'm building my own motorhome from a bus. I've read lots of details, but why can't I just install and plumb for a residential toilet rather than a fancy-dancy marine or RV toilet? What's the big deal? Randy Davidson, (Magnolia, TX)
Randy, there would be no physical problem installing a household-type toilet in a bus conversion. Many custom builders do. The main reasons mainstream production RVs utilize the RV marine toilet is for efficiency and weight reduction. The RV-specific toilet is much lighter in weight and uses much less water. In some RVing circles, conservation of resources is crucial; a toilet that flushes with less water is most beneficial, especially in a dry camping situation. Plus a marine toilet will not fill the holding tank as rapidly as a residential toilet. Compare the amount of water used per flush between a residential toilet with a standard back-tank and a newer, more efficient marine toilet. It's doubtful the weight factor will be an issue on a bus chassis, but typically RVs are constructed with the overall weight issue high on the list of priorities. Not only the weight of the heavy porcelain in a household toilet, but the weight of the water you will be carrying around in the back-tank is also a consideration. Both types mount identically with a typical floor flange so it is doable. If it's purely the bone china finish you are seeking, there are some nice porcelain RV toilets available now that will fill the bill.
Dear RV Doctor, I have a Starcraft RV with dual axles. I noticed that the brake wires on one of the wheels have come loose from the electric brake magnets. Does polarity have to be observed when reattaching these wires? I cannot find any information in the operation and service manuals for the trailer or the axles on wiring to the brake magnets. David Jones, (San Antonio, TX)
David, brake magnets are direct current (DC) devices. They require positive 12-volts and negative 12-volts (ground connection) in order to become activated. The magnets themselves do not have polarity, but each must have a ground wire and a hot wire in order to complete the circuit powered by the brake controller. That's why they typically have two wires the same color. So either wire can be attached to either segment of the circuit. Just be sure to attach them both! Hopefully the wires just pulled loose at a connecting point behind the backing plate. This is a fairly common occurrence if the wires are secured without the proper amount of slack. If the wires have pulled out of the magnet itself, it will be necessary to replace that magnet. The leads are connected internally to each of the magnets. Be sure to use the same size and the same brand if a magnet needs to be replaced. And it is advisable to keep the magnets on each end of the same axle the same age, so if you must replace one, replace the opposite side as well. Oh, and while you're in there, be sure to check out the brake shoes, the brake drum and armature plate as well as the condition of the springs and actuating lever. Also, check the wheel bearings. Now is a good time to repack them since you'll have everything disassembled just to gain access to the magnets. This is one area you should bookmark to check regularly.
|
|
|
[ Home ] [ Ask the RV Doctor ] [ RV Doctor Column ] [ Memorandums ] [ Interesting Articles ] [ Product Spotlight ] [RV Service Technician Training ] [ Seminars ] [ Links ] [ Gary's Bio ]
Send your questions and comments to:
gbunzer@cox.net |
|