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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #341 Dear Gary, I have a Generac generator. When I turn on the air conditioner inside the motorhome and the load increases, the engine begins trying to maintain the voltage by increasing the RPMs. It over-compensates and then begins decreasing RPMs. It repeats this for six or seven cycles while the voltage ranges from 105-volts to 128-volts. This all takes place in about 20 seconds, and then it evens out and holds a steady 117-volts. Is this harmful? If so, any suggestions? Barry Meek, (Westlake, LA)
Barry, typically when a generator surges or "hunts" for the correct setting during the application of loads, it is usually the governor that needs adjusting. The governor adjustment controls the frequency of the output voltage and can calm an accelerating/decelerating situation. However, the carburetor must first be adjusted correctly prior to making any adjustments to the governor. Here's the catch; every adjustment on the carburetor and governor, however slight they may be, will have an electrical result that you will not be able to detect audibly. It must be monitored electrically by using a load bank designed specifically for setting up RV generators. The load bank will enable a technician to apply a rated load at varying intervals while monitoring the frequency and the voltage at the same time. Generators cannot be tuned by ear. Search for a shop in your area with the appropriate equipment. Without a load bank, a technician would simply be guessing, and yes, such surging and rapid fluctuation of the frequency and voltage can be damaging to some electrical equipment in the RV.
Dear RV Doctor, in an earlier column you stated, "The black and grey systems should not be inter-connected, that is, they must each have a dedicated method of storing the waste in holding tanks and each must have its own waste termination or dump valve." Why MUST they? No explanation for this is provided in the article. Is this one more Old Paradigm that should not be propagated? I'm planning to have a single tank, called the septic tank, with one dumping valve. Why would this not work? Randy Davidson, (Magnolia, TX)
Randy, a single holding tank will indeed work, per se, but you'll soon find that it will need evacuating quite often. RVers tend to use more grey water than that which is flushed down the toilet. In modern coaches the two waste systems are kept separate in order to comply with the RV Codes and Standards as applied to manufactured RVs. Individual builders, as well as private RV owners, however, can do anything they desire. In years past it was quite common to find a toilet tank only, with the grey water bypassing any container on the RV altogether. But this proved quite inconvenient. For longer excursions a separate black and grey system is considered optimum. Some larger RVs may even have three separate dedicated tanks, one for the sinks, one for the shower/tub and one for the toilet.
Dear RV Doc, somewhere in the USA there has to be a junkyard for motorhomes that a person could buy used parts. Stuff like a leveling unit, electric steps, antennas, etc. I know my junkyard has one motorhome that is thirty years old. Ever heard of any? Gary Prosser, (Salida, CO)
Gary, in many cases, even after a catastrophic fire that reduces a motorhome down to the frame rails, that chassis is eventually rebuilt by someone. Still RV junkyards do exist. Many dealers and aftermarket service centers, likewise, well salvage usable components and simply offer them for parts. This is especially true for those hard-to-find, orphan parts. There is a risk and certainly no warranty when purchasing used RV components, but when strapped for funds, it does prove to be an option. I've compiled a list from various sources, but I must caution you, I have not verified each location. But these were gleaned from the Internet and may be helpful to you. Here's what I found:
Dear RV Doctor, I have an older 1976 RV I am trying to fix up. I would like to know if it is advisable to use 3/8-inch copper tubing for my stove/oven instead of 1/2-inch. It would only be about 3-feet long coming from the elbow that has a 1/2-inch line going to the LP container about ten feet away. Lastly, should I use all flared fittings instead of compression fittings on propane lines regardless of size? Any help is appreciated. Carl Davis, (Ft. Worth, TX)
Carl, many motorhomes today come equipped with 1/2-inch copper tubing for the branch runs of the LP distribution system though you'll still see some units outfitted with the smaller 3/8-inch copper lines. LP gas piping systems are sized by the BTU demand load of that particular RV. Of course, you'll also find black iron piping used for the main manifold with the copper branches going to each appliance. Unless your range is a "high demand" appliance, you should be okay with a short run of 3/8-inch tubing. But only use SAE pipe fittings and flare fittings; and use no sealant of any type on flare fittings. Compression fittings are not allowed in the LP delivery system even though you may find some utilized inside LP appliances.
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