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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #331 Dear RV Doc, I just purchased a Generac QuietPact generator. I have been led to understand that all gensets should be installed in a fire resistant box such that protects the living areas. This makes sense. This generator comes in an insulated steel box with no openings that cannot be sealed except on the bottom where it gets cooling as well as combustion air. This is also where the engine exhausts. I will mount the unit with bottom open to the outside and sealed around the base. Is it normal to NOT have to build another steel box to house this unit? Thanks for your help. Ed (Robby) Robbins, (Priddis, AB)
Robby, when the generator purchased is approved for installation in an RV, then the metal box it is constructed in will satisfy the ANSI requirement regarding a fireproof compartment. The compartment, where you install the generator, however, must be vapor tight to the interior of the RV. If you are mounting it below the floor line, then the underside of the RV must be sealed vapor tight also. The mounting location must also allow for the proper amount of ventilation and hot air discharge, just like you mentioned. Just be sure the exhaust pipe extends past the sidewall of the RV by at least 1-inch and not near any inlet to the RV. Since the box surrounding the generator now meets the necessary requirements, it will not be necessary to metal-line and insulate the compartment in the RV. As a precaution, though, follow the manufacturer's recommendations to be sure.
Dear Gary, I have a 28-foot Terry and all my gauges for the holding tanks, water tank, etc., on my circuit panel will not light at all. I've looked for a fuse, but I did not see one anywhere. Any ideas? Mike Olds, (Anaheim, CA)
Mike, depending on the year of manufacture, oftentimes the main fuse for monitor panels are located behind the panel, sandwiched between the cabinet walls. Remove the panel mounting screws and carefully pull the panel away from the cabinet. Look for an "in-line" fuse holder jammed in there with all the other wires coming into the panel. In other cases the fuse may be located on the fuse block inside the converter. Hope this helps!
Dear RV Doctor, recently the wind blew my awning up onto the roof of my 2003 Rockwood pop-up tent trailer. It put a jagged three to four-inch cut into the top of the roof. I can't tell if it is aluminum or fiberglass but it has a texture to it. It looks like a patch will take care of it. The dealer wants about $2800 to replace the entire roof. The unit is mint except for this defect. I even added electric brakes to it. My insurance company wants me to send in my title and they will send me a salvage title plus I get to keep the camper and a check for $3015 to take care of the damage. I am afraid that if I do this I won't be able to sell it or trade it later due to the salvage title. Another option they offered was to buy it from me outright for $3500. I can't replace it for that and have only used it six nights. Should I take the salvage route or tell them to forget the claim and fix it myself and if so how do I do it. My plan was to keep the pop-up for three to four years then upgrade to something bigger if we still enjoy RVing. If it's not a very expensive repair I will let the dealer patch it, but their $85.00 hour labor rate scare me. What to you think? Howard Page, (Seabrook, NH)
Howard, not having seen the damage puts me at a disadvantage and I would only be speculating, however, I do believe that if the damage is limited to just three to four inches and no other component was damaged, I'd have it repaired rather than go the salvage title route. This type of repair should not take more than an hour and a half to complete. Though you could quite possibly do it yourself, I'd opt for the RV service center to perform the repair. Find out how long they will guarantee the repair. Even if the labor time runs two hours, the $170 would be worth knowing the repair was backed by their guarantee. You will still have to monitor that section of the roof and periodically check the sealant, but it will certainly take you beyond your target ownership period of three to four years. Only you can make the final determination, but roof repairs happen every day. I would have to doubt this damage would warrant a "total" declaration.
Dear RV Doc, I have a 1991, 26-foot Fleetwood Class C with a Dometic refrigerator. I have just noticed a strong ammonia odor when I opened the freezer door with the refrigerator in the off position. I expect that this is NOT normal. Can you tell me what's wrong and what I am faced with? Gary Collier, (Carlsbad, CA)
Gary, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but unfortunately you have a leaking cooling unit which renders the refrigerator inoperable. The entire cooling unit will have to be replaced. Not an uncommon occurrence, cooling unit tubing can become oxidized due to moisture entrapment and a rupture or crack in the piping results, thereby releasing the ammonia. If the leak point is situated at or near an exposed section of tubing at the rear of the refrigerator, a bright yellow residue is usually visible. Chances are the leak is in a section of tubing hidden by insulation and you may not actually see it, but any indication of an ammonia smell confirms a leak indeed. Typically, service centers replace this cooling core with a refurbished unit, sending the damaged unit back to the supplier to be repaired, recharged and placed back into inventory. The entire replacement can take anywhere from two to four hours to complete. Cooling units cannot be repaired in the field - they must be replaced. Not an inexpensive venture, oftentimes RV owners must contemplate a complete refrigerator upgrade versus the cooling unit replacement. It depends on the age of the refrigerator and how fond you are of your existing unit. On units around eight years or older, seriously consider a complete refrigerator replacement. You will have a new unit warranty and all new parts. With a cooling unit replacement only, the original components are still aged and non-warrantable. It just may be time to visit your nearest Camping World Store and peruse the new models available. I sure wish I had better news, but ammonia leaks do happen.
Dear Gary, the strings on our mini blinds have deteriorated somewhat. Can they be restrung somehow or can an ordinary person replace those mini blinds or should I take it to the dealer? Does the framework around the window have to be removed in order to make the repair or to replace them? Joyce Schonscheck, (Conifer, CO)
Joyce, indeed re-stringing those shades is difficult. Those that I have done in the past required holding my tongue just right as well as a minimum of three hands and a lot of time. My advice is to have the dealer perform this task and allow him to assume the liability to get it right. But this is from one with very little patience or tolerance for such things; you may opt to do it yourself if you feel so inclined. Replacing the complete assembly, however, is so much easier. Look closely at how they are hung. There will be brackets of some sort that attach the assembly inside or just above the window opening. Though attaching methods vary, rarely will the inside garnish trim need to be removed. If you're handy with common tools, you should have no problem replacing them yourself.
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