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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #326 Dear RV Doc, we just purchased a clean 1971 RV and have discovered a leaking plastic toilet. The toilet leaks from the top back when the "flush pedal" is in operation. If the toilet's not flushing, there's no leak. Any suggestions? Joanne Mammarelli, ( Sewell , NJ )
Joanne, the symptoms you've indicated point to a faulty vacuum breaker assembly in the upper reaches of the toilet. At the age of your motorhome, I'm guessing it is probably a Thetford Aqua Magic or an earlier version of that toilet. Repair parts are still readily available at any well-stocked RV parts store. The toilet will have to be removed from the coach for the repair, but the actual parts replacement is relatively easy if you are handy with common hand tools. I would recommend replacing all the seals in the toilet also since you will have the toilet out of the RV during the repair anyway. Again, the seals and the vacuum breaker assembly are fairly easy to replace, albeit a little messy (I always wear latex surgical gloves when working on any waste system component). Each kit will come with definitive how-to instructions. After obtaining the correct parts, begin by turning off the water supply (water pump and city water) to the toilet and bleed the pressure by flushing the toilet one last time. Remove the water inlet line at the rear of the toilet; it's usually best to plug or cap that line while the toilet is removed. The toilet is held to the floor flange by two closet bolts positioned at about 11 and 5 o'clock when facing the toilet as installed. To gain access to the front (5 o'clock) bolt, depress both foot pedals; you'll be able to get an end wrench in there fairly easily, but a ratchet wrench actually works better if you have one. An off-set ratchet wrench works the best. The back bolt can be accessed by reaching behind the toilet or by removing a knockout plug located under the seat at about the 11 o'clock position. A socket extension and universal joint will most likely be needed if approached in this manner. Once you remove the two closet bolt nuts, simply lift the toilet up and over the bolts and take it outside. Place the toilet upside down on a workbench with the rear of the toilet facing out. You'll now be able to see all the innards inside the toilet casing. Read and follow the replacement instructions as written for the vacuum breaker and the seals. Reinstall the toilet in the coach by reversing the above steps. Connect the water line, apply water pressure and check for leaks. Not a pleasant task for sure, but one easily accomplished by the handy do-it-yourselfer.
Dear Gary, I have read articles on auxiliary brakes 'till I am blue. I find I just get confused. There are cable systems, inertia systems and combinations of this and that, with prices from $400 to $1400. Is there anyone who has done an evaluated study of each of the systems pointing out the pros and cons? I expect a lot has to do with which system is best with the weight of the vehicle being towed, etc. We tow a Chevy Malibu behind our gasoline motorhome and we are within the manufacture's weight guidelines. Issues like the inclusion of power brakes on the toad, easy in and out vs. semi-permanent and so on need to be evaluated. I like the principles of some of them. So how does one make a wise choice? Al Seitz, ( Milford , MI )
Al, indeed the plethora of choices for auxiliary braking when towing a smaller vehicle behind the motorhome can be mind boggling. The fact that there are different technologies involved in their design deepens the question. There truly is no, "best one" that will work "best" for everyone. Additionally, to my knowledge, there has never been any comprehensive study performed on the various models available. There have been reviews from time to time, but no side-by-side, A-B study. The July 2003 issue of Family Motor Coaching Magazine chronicles about twenty different models. The good point about this article is that the contacts were listed for each of the makers. I would suggest you obtain that article and contact each manufacturer that interests you. Ask each of them for four or five references whom you can contact to get their impressions. As always, my advice in all instances of subjective analysis like this is to clearly write out your requirements for the task at hand. Weigh all factors such as cost, availability, service after the sale, etc. Maybe even make a few phone calls to the manufacturers and have each explain why they consider theirs the best on the market. Have them sell you on their product. Carefully analyze your results, sleep on it a day or two, and then make an informed decision. Do let me know your thoughts after you decide. I welcome all comments, good and not-so-good about all aftermarket products.
Dear RV Doctor, I just bought a fairly new RV. I expect to use it for ten plus years. The roof is aluminum with a long seam running down the middle. Do you think I should cover the roof with a spray-on bed liner, like Rhino? Stephen Rogan, ( New York , NY )
Stephen, Rhino on a motorhome roof? I can understand the direction of your thinking (to a certain point), but using a product in an application for which it is not intended is simply asking for trouble of some sort down the line. Indeed I would provide some sealing to that seam, but I believe I'd reserve the Rhino for the bed of my pickup truck. A much better solution would be to install a product from Eternabond called WebSeal. The only preparation necessary is that the surface be clean, dry and free of any remnants of silicone. Silicone is the only thing Eternabond will not stick to. Eternabond products will remain flexible to minus 70 degrees F., which means it will remain stable in any climate; even under constant bombardment of UV rays in the heat of summer. Plus it is so easy to install. Just simply roll it out and press it down. Quite simple, no mess, very little prep, no clean up and Eternabond will stick to just about any type of RV roof including yours. Just be careful you have it where you want it. It is virtually impossible to remove. Ask your local dealer about Eternabond products, or visit them on the web at www.eternabond.com. There are certainly other products available that will realize the same results, but I've had good success with Eternabond in the past.
Dear RV Doc, last autumn, I bought my first RV and had the dealer winterize it after I was done traveling for the year. I want to de-winterize it myself but I'm not sure of what's involved. Can I just flush it out to remove the RV antifreeze? Can I obtain a pamphlet somewhere that covers winterizing/de-winterizing? Peter Stonis, ( New Kensington , PA )
Indeed flushing the fresh water system will rid your coach of RV anti-freeze, but there are certainly additional items to check and tasks to perform depending on the extent that dealer performed the winterizing precautions last fall. The steps are too numerous to include in this response, but the September 2003 issue of FMC Magazine contains an in-depth look at all the necessary winterizing procedures. Additionally, the March 2004 issue holds the companion article for de-winterizing your motorhome. Each article details, step by step, all the procedures necessary for any motorhome. If you are a member of FMCA, or a subscriber to FMC Magazine, you can log on and obtain copies of both articles. To begin, go to www.fmca.com and click on the Technical Articles link in the lower right side of the home page.
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