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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #318 Dear RV Doc, I have a Hydro Flame furnace that will not ignite. When I set the thermostat for heat the fan goes on and I hear a click but there is no heat. I pulled the unit out and checked it for spark and also pulled off the gas feed to make sure the gas was getting to the valve and it all checked out. I did notice that when I tried blowing through the valve that I couldn't get through. I don't know if that could be the problem or not. My model number is 8520-11. Thank you for any help you can provide. Ralph Picard, ( Collegeville , PA )
Ralph, one of the functions of the printed circuit board on your unit is to send the voltage to open the gas solenoid valve. That's the reason you cannot blow through a gas valve. It must be powered by voltage coming from the circuit board. If it is not doing that, the board will have to be replaced. Most RV service centers are equipped with a bench test device that fully tests all the functions of the circuit board; spark, flame sense, lockout and power to the solenoid. It takes about five minutes to run a repeated series of tests to determine the health of the board; especially if you simply walk in with the board in-hand. But the first thing you need to verify is the correct amount of voltage to the furnace. The DC voltage must be between 10.5-volts and 13.5-volts. Too low or too high voltage will create operational problems with RV furnaces. You also might want to verify the ground connection at the furnace also. A good ground is also vital. Verify this before condemning the board..but don't get your hopes up. It could be a faulty gas valve, but chances are it is the circuit board, but do have it tested first.
Dear Gary, enroute to our campground, we had a blowout. We were in a situation where I had to ride on that blowout tire because of roadway space. When we got help we went to our site, but shortly after we attached our water hose to the city outlet. It took awhile but the carpets on the bathroom floor became soaked. I'm thinking maybe the seal under the toilet is bad, but now wonder if that blowout did damage to our water storage tank. The tank is behind the tire that blew up. Can you help me to guide me on how to repair the tank if it is the tank or give me an idea of other possibilities? Frances DePerno, ( Saugerties , NY )
Frances , sorry to hear about your tire blowout incident. Indeed it is quite possible the blowout caused additional damage to other components. When the tire comes apart in that manner, fragments are sure to hit other objects. I've seen where a tire blowout actually destroyed the whole wheel well assembly and loosened the sidewall in that area. Hopefully your damage is not quite that bad. If indeed the holding tank is damaged, I'm afraid the only viable repair option is plastic welding; something only a specialized shop will be equipped to handle. Patch kits may work temporarily for small cracks, but permanent repair is only effectuated by welding the plastic tank. Let's hope the shock of the blowout only loosened a connection or, at worst, cracked a fitting. It will be necessary to completely inspect the tank and all the plumbing components nearby. If possible, completely remove the tank to inspect every square inch of it. Only after a thorough inspection can repair recommendations be made. But a loosened or cracked fitting is relatively easy to replace..much easier than having the tank welded. Let's hope for the best.
Dear RV Doctor, my Father just purchased a 1989 ford Class C motorhome and the refrigerator does not work at all. It has the same symptoms on propane or electricity. Could it be possible blockage in the evaporator tube? I have a little working knowledge of RV systems but I have extensive knowledge of automobile repair. Are there any diagnostics for this system or is it junk. I have little trust in the local technicians. There seems to be a wide range of pricing as well as the quality of work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Robert Giffin, ( Lake Havasu City , AZ )
Robert, the number you provided is probably from the actual cooling unit of the refrigerator; it does not appear to be the original unit. It would be more helpful if you could find the actual brand and model number of the refrigerator itself. The fact that it does not work at all may be an indication of a faulty cooling unit, or something as simple as a thermostat. The thermostat can be tested, but each model is different. Send the make and model and I'll check my library. If you do smell ammonia though, the cooling unit is indeed faulty and must be replaced. Other than the specific procedures base on model number, the unit may need to be simply cleaned and serviced. But certainly there exists a plausible troubleshooting strategy and any qualified service technician should be able to identify the cause within a prescribed period of time. I recommend shopping by experience rather than by price alone.
Dear RV Doc, how can I get the name of companies that sell products to use in an RV that would be able to boost the park voltage when it is low. We need one that will convert power to 30-amps when it's low. I had a picture of one that had "Hughes Autoformers" on it but any company that has a similar one will be okay. Carol Ward, ( Depew , NY )
Carol, I can only recommend products that I have personally tested. I have tested the Hughes Autoformer and am satisfied that their product does as it is designed to do. Therefore I can recommend them in this instance. They do produce a 30-amp model that should more than suffice. They also make a 50-amp model for RV so equipped. You can research more about their product at: www.hughesautoformers.com .
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