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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #316 Dear RV Doc, I own a Coachmen Catalina and one evening coming back from a trip, the trailer got hit by a big pothole. The front right tire looks out of alignment. Can this be realigned or do I need a new axle or spindle? Is it easily fixed? Dieter Bothe, ( Machias , NY )
Dieter, I'm still trying to picture in my mind how the pothole actually hit the trailer, but if the right front tire is so much out of kilter that you can see the difference without taking measurements, then you can just about bet there was indeed some axle damage. Mis-alignment determined by measuring equipment is one thing, but if you can actually see that it is not right then the axle itself must really be bent. It will have to be inspected by a professional shop to determine exactly how bad the axle is damaged and whether a repair is even feasible. Many shops will discourage you from re-bending a damage axle because of the liability it might impose. It may be best to simply replace the entire axle, but that determination can only be made after a thorough inspection. Look for a shop with experience servicing the axle and frames of travel trailers rather than one whose sole focus is automotive.
Dear Gary, can you run the engine and the generator at the same time? Walter Adams, ( Mountain City , TN )
Walter, must you be so wordy with your requests? Just kidding, that's the way I like them...straight to the point. Is it plausible to run the generator while driving down the road? In most instances, yes, but remember, they will more than likely be competing for the same fuel from the same tank. Don't get caught short just because it's hot inside the RV and you want that extra cooling from the roof air conditioner. If it's not to run the roof air conditioners, I see no need to run the generator at all while driving. Some experts may disagree with this view, but as long as the fuel take-off tube for the generator is plumbed correctly, there should really be no problem. If, however, the generator fuel line was simply tee'd into the existing fuel line to the chassis engine there could be a fuel starvation problem caused by the two fuel pumps competing for the same fuel. Depending on the dynamics of that installation, either the generator or the motorhome engine is going to lose that battle.
Dear RV Doc, we have a 1995 Kit Sportsmaster. The rear window regulator in the master bedroom will not close all the way. I have inspected the handle and the spline seems to be in good shape. The slippage that I feel seems to be coming from inside the window regulator itself. How do I get the window apart to put in a new window regulator? Or better yet, just tell me what to do and how to disassemble it. I can't get the window apart to get the regulator out. Ken McCollum, ( Ofallon , IL )
Ken, knowing who the manufacturer of the window is would be most advantageous, but most awning-type windows will have a horizontal bar that connects the linkages on both sides of the window. I am also assuming the operator attaches to one side of the window frame. Open the window fully and remove the two mounting screws on the regulator and, from the outside, carefully pry the operator and traverse bar up and out through the opening. There should be a little "play" where the traverse rod inserts into the regulator allowing the slightest bit of movement that will allow you to accomplish this. In some cases, the regulator may be riveted to the frame of the window. In that case, the rivets will have to be drilled out. Insert the new regulator onto the rod and force it back into position against the frame. It may appear the regulator will not clear the side of the frame, so a little force may be necessary. It may be necessary to angle the traverse rod to allow it to slide down and into place. If rivets were used on the original regulator, simply drill pilot holes through the window frame and use sheet metal screws of the appropriate size to secure the new regulator.
Dear RV Doc, I have read articles on auxiliary brakes for autos towed behind a motorhome until I am blue. I find I just get confused. There are cable systems, inertia systems, combinations of this and that, etc., with prices that range from $400 to $1400. Is there anyone who has done an evaluated, scientific study of each of the systems pointing out the pros and cons? I expect a lot has to do with which system is best with the weight of the vehicle being towed, etc. We tow a Chevy Malibu behind our gasoline powered motorhome and we are within the manufacturer's total weight guidelines. Issues like power bakes on the towed vehicle, easy installation vs. semi-permanent installation, etc., have all but confused me. So how does one make a wise choice? Which is the bet choice? Al Seitz, ( Milford , MI )
Al, I appreciate your question and know the information you are seeking is important to you, but it would be virtually impossible for me to decide subjective issues such as, which is best, most effective, most popular, least costly, etc. I take the approach that most all RV products such as these have their pros and cons and I also realize that my pro just may be your con! Indeed the plethora of choices for auxiliary braking when towing a smaller vehicle behind the motorhome can be mind boggling. The fact that there are different technologies involved in their design deepens the question. There truly is no, "best one" that will work "best" for everyone. Additionally, to our knowledge, there has never been a comprehensive study performed on the various models available. There have been many product reviews published from time to time, but no side-by-side, A-B comparison study. One issue of Family Motor Coaching Magazine (July 2003), chronicled about twenty different models, none of which were actually tested. The good point about this article is that all the contacts were listed for each of the makers. I would suggest you obtain that article and contact each manufacturer that interests you. Ask each of them for four or five references whom you can contact to get their impressions. My advice in all instances of subjective analysis like this is to clearly write out your requirements for the task at hand. Weigh all factors such as cost, ease of installation, portability, etc. Maybe even make a few phone calls to the manufacturers and have them explain why they consider theirs the best on the market. Have them sell you on their product. Carefully analyze your results, sleep on it a day or two, then make an informed decision.
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