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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #315 Dear RV Doctor, I have an older Terry travel trailer. Three weeks ago I hooked up the rig to my tow vehicle and tested the lights. I had a problem with the left turn and brake lights. It appears the brake light is illuminated when the brakes are NOT depressed, and the left turn signal is inoperative altogether. I checked the trailer plug connections, and they were all fine. I thought it could be the tow vehicles' connections, so I tested the trailer on my other tow vehicle and got the same results. The right signal and brake lights work as they should and all running lights operate, as do the electric brakes; everything but the left turn and brake lamp on that side. Any ideas? Chris Erdos, ( Tucson , AZ )
Chris, if you are absolutely sure the trailer plug electrically matches the truck wiring (i.e. nothing has been switched around), then I would suggest you check the ground connections at the affected lamps on the trailer. Quite often, poor grounding will result in some lamps not working and others to light up when they're not supposed to. Any resistive unit (light bulb) will seek the closest/easiest path to ground. If it happens to be through another filament, it will power that lamp. Floating grounds are quite difficult to diagnose. In the past I have used a long test cable with twin sets of leads. I connect one lead directly to the battery positive and one directly to the battery negative thereby insuring a good ground to the power source. At the other end, ground the lamp with the lead attached to the negative cable and then touch the positive lead to the wires for the bulbs. If an effected circuit is deemed groundless then a new wire can be permanently routed and connected. Use the jumpers for testing only.
Dear RV Doc, I am shopping for a new class C motorhome and have narrowed my choices down to two different brands. I note that they both use aluminum "skin" for the exterior wall covering as well as for the roof covering. This differs significantly from the competition. How would you choose which type siding is the best? Joe Walker, ( Avinger , TX )
Joe, just as there are more than a couple of varying floor plans and coach layouts available, so also are there multiple construction techniques to choose from. Some makers like a rubber roof; others favor fiberglass or aluminum. Obviously, makers choose those methods that best suit their design characteristics, retail market, corporate vision and budget. This isn't to say that one technique is "better" than another; just different. I collect acoustic guitars. For me, no guitar I own is "better" than any other one, (maybe more expensive). They each have their own select tone woods and body design. They each produce a distinctly different sound. I'd hate to have to choose just one. Am I suggesting you buy more than one RV? Hmm, your dealer would like that, but that's certainly not my point with the guitar analogy. It proves that different does not always equate to better. Some RV sidewalls are solid, laminated pieces; others are hollow with softer insulation. Some are more durable, easier to clean and more aesthetically pleasing (as subjective as that can be). Others are heavier, more costly or easy to ding/damage. Some are a combination. There are many factors when considering which construction method is best suited for your RVing needs. I take the approach that all such methods have their pros and cons and I also realize that my pro just may be your con! I do, however, believe that regardless of which type construction method you favor, all require an assertive program of preventive maintenance for best results. I would suggest you contact a few manufacturers directly and have them extol the benefits of their construction techniques. Be sure to get a cross-section of makers, using various methods. Don't bother asking the dealer. They may know, but most assuredly they will try to steer you to their inventory at hand. Have the manufacturers "sell" you on their product. Ask neighbors or fellow RVers what their opinion is, but realize it is only their opinion. Carefully analyze your results, sleep on it a day or two and then make an informed decision.
Dear Gary, the generator on my RV had 35 hours on it when it "quit". These hours must have been during the delivery of the RV to the dealership, because we had not attempted to use it until recently. It would not stay running, so we took it to an RV repair shop. They told us that it would be $1,000 to fix it because the carburetor "varnished over" from non-use. Does this sound like a correct diagnosis or are we being taken for a ride? The repair fee also sounds exorbitant. What is the price range for new generators? Shelley Anderson, ( Temecula , CA )
Shelley, it would be difficult, at best, to try to ascertain a correct diagnosis without actually viewing or analyzing the carburetor on your generator closely. But it certainly sounds plausible - the phenomenon is common. Unused fuel will deteriorate and become gummy over time, turning to a varnish-like material. Chances are the carburetor on the generator will need to be rebuilt at best; replaced entirely at worst. Either way, the generator will have to be tuned-up and set up with a load bank and all adjustments, (choke, carburetor, governor), set to that unit's specifications. I'm not aware of regional repair costs or the prices of new equipment but I would certainly get a second diagnosis just to be sure. But it is quite likely your service shop is correct.
Dear RV Doctor, I'm having a problem with my range in my RV. The oven has probably never been used. When you turn it on, the pilot lights immediately. The problem is the flame on the burner stays at full fire. Whether you set it for 200-degrees or 500-degrees there is no change in the burner flame. It is not adjusting. Is this something stupid that we can fix or do we need a professional? Peter Post, ( Rockland , MA )
Peter, what you've described actually sounds normal. The main burner flame will be the same size regardless of what temperature you set the thermostat to. The burner flame remains constant until the temperature is reached, then it simply shuts down, leaving only the standing pilot flame lit. But the flame will look identical no matter what setting you choose. It just goes off faster at the lower temp. Now if the main burner flame remains on well past the set temperature, like on "broil," then the thermostat could be faulty. If this is the case, before condemning the thermostat, clean the flame sense probe located in the upper rear portion of the oven. It is usually suspended in clips of sorts. It should not be touching the oven sides. If the flame sense probe has a layer of oven cleaner or cooking oils, etc., it will not properly sense the temperature. If, after cleaning the sense probe, the oven still will not shut off when the temperature has been reached, it will be necessary to replace the complete thermostat.
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