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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #312 Dear RV Doc, we have a 1980 motorhome. Upon last inspection I found that the shower does not work. Water is present and at pressure but it does not seem to travel up the hose to the hand held wand. I am pretty sure that the valve on the handheld wand is a simple type and if it will move to either position it should be fine. Is there some sort of ball valve in the mixing handle that allows water to run back down when you are finished bathing? Reason I ask is that when I turn on the mixing handle water runs out from around the hose connection at the faucet assembly but only a small amount of water is reaching the handheld wand. Any advice on how to fix this or do we need to replace the entire faucet assembly? B. Ross, (Napa Valley, CA) Blain, there is a water restricting, anti-siphon vacuum breaker positioned at the hose connection on the faucets for that shower hose. Water from the hose will seep and drain through this vacuum breaker when the water is shut off. Still, you should have water coming through the hand-held shower head when the push valve is positioned in one position or the other. Two possibilities; the hose is plugged somewhere between the faucets and the shower head or the shutoff valve has malfunctioned in the shower head. The hose and vacuum breaker are easily removed since they are typically only finger tight. Remove them both and see if water exits the faucets. If so, then the problem is in the hose or the hand-held. If not, the blockage is probably in the faucet assembly. Keep in mind that small vacuum breaker really limits the flow of water up the shower hose. I believe the I.D. of that fitting is sometimes only 1/8-inch. But still, you should be getting some water through the hose. If the problem is the valve in the hand-held, replacement shower heads are available at any RV parts center. Dear RV Doctor, please address the best method of washing an RV and is a pressure washer useful in washing the RV without causing damage to caulking, etc? M. McGuire, (Marrietta, GA) Mike, if you plan to wash the entire RV, obviously start on the roof. One note though, if you are going to wash the roof only; take care to not allow water, dirt and contaminants to flow over the edges and down the sides. In other words, keep everything on the roof, on the roof. Clean a relatively small section at a time. Moisten the roof area, not with a garden hose, but with a mop and bucket. Moisten, apply the appropriate cleaner, scrub and mop up without allowing the water to flow over the edges. This will eliminate the possibility of streaking; both white and black streaks. If washing the whole rig, however, it's okay to allow the water and dirt to flow over the sides since you will be washing them as well. Simply start on the roof and work with gravity; top to bottom. It is important to know what construction materials are on the roof and the side walls of your RV. Do you have EPDM rubber roofing? Are the sides fiberglass, reinforced plastic or aluminum? Not all cleaning products will work on all surfaces regardless of what the label might say. Be sure the cleaning products you choose state specifically the types of materials on your rig. Also, to avoid damaging the rubber membrane or siding, it is important to choose the correct brush. I favor the flow-through extension poles produced by Mr. LongArm, Inc. Mr. LongArm poles and brush attachments are perfect for RVs since they offer brushes with varying degrees of bristle stiffness; suitable for windows, awnings, roofing, and various side wall finishes. Avoid brush and pole kits commonly offered at discount warehouse retail outlets. Many do not utilize the common Acme thread for the attachments. Don't forget that washing the RV also removes some of the surface protection so adopt a method of washing and waxing on a regular basis. Continued care of the exterior of your RV will provide you many years of aesthetically pleasing RVing to be sure. As for pressure washing; it is not advisable to use any kind of pressure washer on the exterior of an RV. Forced water will permeate sealants and cause future water damage. It's best to use the tried and true method of applying elbow grease and simple city water pressure. Dear RV Doc, my family and I are new second owners of a 1990 Vacationeer cab-over camper. We love it! Just the other day I noticed that some of the1/4" lag screws holding the main jacks are no longer grabbing any material. Short of pulling off the siding do you have any thought on how I can fix this? D. Hilbert, (Monterey, CA) Dave, if the lags are not grabbing into solid wood at every location, then obviously some structural damage has taken place. Typically either dry rot or a water leak has caused the wood to deteriorate. I would first check each and every lag securing those jacks at each corner. Hopefully the damage is limited and contained to that one corner. Obviously it is no longer advisable to use the jacks to dismount the camper unless you know for sure they will hold. Unfortunately, such damage in those corner areas can be quite difficult to repair. A thorough inspection is required in order to fully evaluate even the feasibility of such a repair. Most inspections demand a partial tear down of the affected area which could be difficult for most owners. Rarely would this venture fall into the do-it-yourself category. I have always recommended that such repairs be performed by a reputable and thoroughly qualified RV body shop. Some insurance companies may have a listing of recommended shops in your area, but to be honest, that alone is not a guaranty. If RVing friends do not have a local recommendation for you, your best bet is to try to visit more than one shop within your driving radius and have them each perform an exploratory inspection and allow them to provide you with a professional estimate as to the damages. Once the extent of the damage is known, only then can you make an informed decision as to which option is best. Wish I had more definitive news for you but without actually viewing the damage in person, it's about the best I can offer. Dear Gary, I have no problems backing up any trailers, but I am wondering how is it to back up with a car hooked to a motorhome with a tow bar? F. Paglianite, (Gouldsboro, PA) Frank, if the car is towed with all four wheels on the pavement, it will not be possible to back the unit and maneuver it over any distance since the front wheels of the car also turn. Remember, the key must be turned on in order to disengage the steering wheel "lock" feature when towing a dinghy. If the car has the front end raised and only the rear wheels on the pavement, then it will back similar to backing a trailer. The shorter wheelbase, however, will mandate practice, but it is doable. Backing up with a tow dolly should not be any more difficult than backing with a trailer since the car and dolly are essentially "mated" together as one unit. Still though, practice is required. Before taking off across country, try some practice maneuvers in a large parking lot..after hours.
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