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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #302 Dear RV Doctor, I recently bought a Class A motorhome, a 1985 used model. I filled the LP tank, however, there is no gas reaching any of the appliances. The valve at the tank is open. There is some kind of regulator or solenoid with two wires attached to it. It is located just after the tank shut off valve. Any clue as to what could be wrong? V. Manzione, (Fishkill, NY) Vincent, that solenoid with the two wires you mention is a part of an on-board leak detection system consisting of sensors located inside the RV and connected to that low voltage solenoid near the container via a control panel inside. If an LP leak was detected inside the RV by one of the sensors, the control board would send a signal to the solenoid valve and literally stop the flow of gas right there at the tank. There are many similar systems found on 1980's vintage RVs. Look for that small control panel inside the RV. You may also find three or four small sensors located at or near the floor and maybe inside a cabinet or two. If the system is operable, simply turning on the panel should open that solenoid, as long as the batteries are healthy. If the system is not operable or the batteries are too low, it will be necessary to disassemble the LP piping at the tank and remove that solenoid altogether and reconnect the hoses/piping. Be sure to check for leaks at any fitting you loosen or disassemble to be sure there are no leaks prior to lighting off any of the appliances. The downside to this type of detector is that it required constant power to keep that solenoid open. There are much better systems available today and yours is easily replaced if you choose to do so. Dear Gary, the electric landing gear legs on our Prowler 5th wheel stopped working. Where do I start troubleshooting? Also we just had the slide repaired to slide easier, but it still doesn't. J. Roberts, (Centreville, MD) Jess, the obvious first choice in a troubleshooting direction would beto check the fuse for that circuit. It may be a simple in-line fuse at or near the battery or it could be routed through the low voltage distribution fuse panel. Prowler used different processes in different years. Being an electrical item, other things to look for would be broken or disconnected wires and a proper ground. Also check the mechanical function of the landing gear motor and drive and extension mechanisms. Be sure there is no binding in the moving parts and be sure to lube those portions that slide on metal. As for the slide out, I'd take it back to the servicing facility. Depending on the manufacturer of the slide components, it sounds like an alignment problem or a tracking problem with the slide mechanism itself. There is a chance it could be electrically related as well, so a thorough check of the battery system is probably in order. Other than that, visual inspection may reveal more items to check. Dear RV Doctor, I have an 1989 Class A with an Onan generator. I bought the RV used and the previous owner vanished and is unwilling to help. The problem is my Onan generator. It runs quite well but doesn't generate electricity. Do you have any idea what the problem is? A friend said it may be the brushes. How much should a reasonable repair cost? It does not have very many hours on it. K. Benway, (Hamden, CT) Keith, unfortunately a battery of tests and measurements must be performed before coming to any reasonable conclusion as to the cause of your symptoms. It could something as simple as a tripped breaker or as complex as an open winding in the armature or field. It could even be that the shoreline cord is simply unplugged from the generator receptacle, if so equipped. I'd love to be able to pinpoint an exact cause, but without actually taking a look at the generator, I'd only be guessing. I'd suggest taking it to a qualified repair shop and have them perform a few simple troubleshooting tests to determine why there is no apparent output. A competent service technician should be able to pinpoint a cause within an hour. Then, you can assess what the repair may actually entail in dollars and parts. Dear Gary, we have only used our awning a few times and now it seems to lack tension when rolling it up. Plus it wrinkles in the middle. Is there any way to tighten the spring? W. Neil, (St. Angela de Monnoir, PQ) Walter, a slightly bent roller tube could cause an awning to roll upunevenly as will a canopy that has been stretched. Both may be caused bywater pooling or by high winds. If the awning simply rolls up slowlybecause of a lack of spring tension, more turns to the torsion assemblymay or may not rectify the situation. The number of turns to "wind" thespring is dependent on the brand of awning, the length of the awning and the type of torsioners used. A thorough inspection and a few measurements will determine which component is at fault and that will direct you to the solution. If indeed the awning tube is bent, replacement is the only option. With the awning fully extended, measure how "square" the awning fabric is. Is it the same length at the awning rail as it is at the extended roller tube? Does the width measure the same at the front of the awning as it does at the rear? If the canopy is stretched too far in any direction, it will have to be replaced. If the awning arms are not parallel to each other and perpendicular to the awning rail the canopy may bunch up at one end or the other as well. It is possible to straighten improperly installed arms, however. One other point to inspect - has the awning shifted in the awning rail? There should be at least one screw in the awning rail, through the poly bead portion of the canopy, to keep the uppermost portion of the awning from shifting for or aft in the rail. Again, measuring will determine this.
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