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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #299 Dear RV Doctor, I have an 1989 Class A motorhome. The indicator lights for the propane level always register full. The unit worked fine until about a few months ago. Is there a way to reset this or do I have to replace the sender unit? How does that work? Brian Radke, (Tayors, SC) Brian, the LP sending unit assembly is attached directly to the horizontal LP container. The mechanical float assembly is situated inside the container and corresponds with the sending unit/gauge which is secured on the outside of the container. The float assembly activates a magnet positioned at the rear of the gauge. The magnet actually moves the needle on the gauge which in turn "sends" the corresponding electrical signal to the monitor panel. It could be the gauge unit is faulty and is stuck on "full" in which case it will have to be replaced. In some instances, depending on the maker of the monitor panel, a constant "full" indication means the wire to the monitor panel is shorted to ground. On some panels, it could mean there is an electrical "open" in that circuit; the wire is broken somewhere between the gauge on the container and the monitor panel. To check the gauge itself, carefully remove the two small screws that attach the gauge to the float assembly and run a magnet along the back side of the gauge. The needle should move as you rotate the magnet. If the gauge is operative in this manner, then the problem is in the actual wire which runs to the monitor panel. Unless the fault is quite obvious, it will probably be easier and less time consuming to simply run a new wire from the gauge up to the rear of the monitor panel and spice it in to the LP wire rather than take the time to determine if it's an "open" or a "short." The LP wire is usually colored white with a green stripe around it. There is, of course, the outside chance that the inside mechanical float assembly itself is faulty, though rarely does that happen. If it is the internal float assembly, have a professional technician perform the replacement. Dear RV Doc, I am contemplating replacing my built-in microwave oven in my 1996 34-foot motorhome. The current one does not have a turntable. I want to replace it with one that does have a turntable. My question is, will an over the counter tabletop microwave work without using special venting? I don't recall seeing special venting on the one I have now. John Porter, (Jeffersonville, IN) John, any standard 120-volt, 60 cycle, household-type microwave oven will work fine in the motorhome; even those with the revolving carousel. There are no special venting requirements for such microwaves. The trickiest part, however, is finding a way to secure it safely. You certainly do not want it becoming a launched missile of sorts each time you come to a stop. Simple "L" brackets secured to the sides of the microwave and the bottom of the cabinet work in most instances. I've seen them pop-riveted and secured with sheet metal screws. If you have any doubts about the installation, take it to a professional shop. Dear Gary, I was wondering what was involved in installing an outside shower on my 2000, 21-foot travel trailer. Both the kitchen sink and the bathroom sink are located on outside walls with good access to the water lines. I'm just not sure what is inside the walls where I would have to cut the mounting hole. Is there any type of studs or braces on a fiberglass trailer? My friends have the outside shower on their trailer and I would like to add it to mine. Is this something too difficult? Tom McSkimming, (Lake View, NY) Tom, the installation of an outside shower should not pose too great a problem for the handyman - especially since you already have easy access to the water lines. There will, however, be studs and insulation inside the walls. The type of construction of the side walls will determine how many studs and where they may be located. There also may be electrical wiring inside the wall so care must be taken when cutting into the wall. Disconnect the shoreline and battery power prior to drilling and cutting. Be sure also, to purchase the faucet/shower assembly first so you will know the exact cut-out size. Most will come in a pre-fabbed assembly. Check for the stud spacing dimensions by looking under the cabinets, behind drawers and/or in closets. There will be a tell-tale line of staples or molding strips to indicate the spacing. If possible, use one existing stud as one side of the cut-out opening. Determine exactly where you want the faucet assembly on the outside of the trailer and be sure it does not present a problem inside, such as too close to a partition wall or cabinet. Also, stay away from exhaust vents for the water heater and furnace. For best results structurally, frame around the complete opening with wood. The assembly will then have a solid structure to attach to. Then simply "tee" into the existing hot and cold water lines and you are in business. There are many "easy-to-use" fittings available and soft, pliable PEX tubing available at any well stocked service center that will have you plumbed and showering outside in no time. But please do us a favor; use a shower curtain! Dear RV Doc, I have a two-inch round hole in my EPDM rubber roof. The hole does go into the trailer. Here is the problem; do I patch it or do I need a new roof? The trailer is only one year old. No one will guarantee the patch and the cost for a new roof is expensive. Insurance should cover it but I cannot believe this is how it is done. Hole in roof - new roof. That's what I am told. Any ideas? James Marley, (Newburgh, NY) James, I may have some good news for you. I have just concluded testing some leak repair products produced by Eternabond. One promising product is a 6" X 6" permanent roof repair patch that works on any roof surface, including EPDM. The installation of this permanent roof repair kit is as easy as placing a self-adhesive stamp on an envelope, (well almost). After plugging the actual hole in the roof, the EPDM patch is applied by peeling off the backing and applying pressure. The pressure applied begins the bonding process that will remain permanent, yet it will not harden. Care must be taken, as in any repair, to completely clean the affected area first and be sure to not use any type of silicone sealant. Eternabond simply will not bond properly to silicone. And be sure to follow the instructions to the letter. Replace the entire roof because of one hole? I think I'd look for another repair facility; one that has the customer's best interest in mind.
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