|
|
RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #298 Dear RV Doc, I want to install dual switches for my 12-volt water pump. Do I need to install some type of relay switch? William King, (San Diego, CA) William, to turn the pump on and off from two different locations, two, three-way switches are used. There is no need for a relay. A low voltage, three-way switch will have three terminals located on the back while a simple on/off switch will only have two terminals. Be sure the switches are indeed three-way switches and rated for 12-volts DC. Depending on the manufacturer of the switch, one of the terminals will be labeled or marked as the "common" terminal. It may be the odd, lone terminal on one end of the switch; it may have a "C" imbedded in the casing. The other two terminals may be labeled as "traveler" terminals or they may not be marked at all, again depending on the maker. The hot wire from the fuse block of the water pump circuit will connect to the common terminal on either of the two switches. From the common terminal on the other three-way switch, route the wire to the red wire on the water pump. Two more individual wires are then run between the two switches and connected to the traveler terminals at the back of each switch. Run each wire to the like terminal at each switch. Remember, there will be no off or on position regarding both switches. "Up" on one may actually be "off," for instance. Don't let that confuse you. Also, it is best to use different colored wires for ease of identification at each juncture in the circuit. All in all, three-way switches, though confusing by name, are not that difficult to install. The hardest part may be actually routing the wires from point to point. This is but one of a few different methods of wiring three-way switches, and it is probably the easiest to understand. Dear Gary, I have a 2002, 17-foot travel trailer made by (brand name). The plumbing and dump valves sit only two inches off the ground when the unit is level. I just had a trip almost ruined by the valves being knocked loose to the point that the black water tank failed and waste material entered the camper when the toilet was flushed. The dealer has had to replace all of the plumbing from the tanks to the connection for the sewer hose. In plain English, the plumbing is too low or the frame is not high enough off the axle. The manufacturer wants me to have a local welder fabricate a skid plate to go under the plumbing, however, this further reduces my ground clearance. The welder says to cut into the C-channel frame and raise the plumbing, which the dealer says will void the warranty. John Greiffendorf, (Brandon, FL) Ouch! John, it sounds like you are in that proverbial spot between a rock and a hard place. However, I must agree with the manufacturer concerning any cutting into the chassis frame rails. I also would not be in favor of adding a skid plate which further reduces what precious little ground clearance you have now. This is the typical band-aid approach and solves nothing. I would seriously consider raising the entire trailer higher by installing taller tires, flipping the axles, or going to a larger axle and wheel assembly altogether. You would have to get the manufacturer's engineering department involved to determine just what would be the correct fix to an obviously flawed design. Another method of raising the plumbing only would be to install electric waste valves that attach directly to the outlet of the tanks. This permits the termination plumbing to be raised slightly. However, if the tank outlets are already too low, this would not be a viable suggestion. I would opt for raising the entire profile. Dear Doctor Gary, I want to wax my motorhome and I seem to be getting conflicting reports about what type of wax to use or not to use. The main problem seems to be the decal graphics. Do decals need a special wax? What if I use a boat wax on the entire motorhome including the decals? Steve Moulios, (Glendora, CA) Steve, the word we call "wax" can stand for any number of different types of coatings and products so the term may actually be a little ambiguous. In the case of selecting an exterior care product it pays to do some homework regardless of the type of surface. For a fiberglass surface, you want to look for a product label that speaks directly about fiberglass. Boat wax would work but it is formulated more for resisting moisture than anything else. For today's vinyl decals, you will want to look for a care product that addresses vinyl in the product literature. While there are many individual products made to work on these surfaces individually, chemical advancements made some twenty years ago have allowed companies to produce exceptional multipurpose products that work equally well on both surfaces. So be sure to read product labels carefully. Suffice it to say that if your particular surface finish or material is not mentioned, don't use it. As for fiberglass specifically, look for products that contain UV inhibitors or blockers. Since the vehicle suffers exposure to the sun much of the time, UV blockers absorb the damaging rays before they reach the actual surface. Keep in mind those UV blockers only last three to four months under the best conditions. Regardless of the product selection, regular cleaning and waxing should be performed every three to six months for best results. As for decals, vinyl care products should also contain UV Blockers. Be sure to use products that are recommended for vinyl and avoid those that contain abrasives. This is why so many folks are getting conflicting information. Abrasives are often used in auto or boat waxes to restore older, faded surfaces. Fading can occur quickly on a decal and consumers tend to not read the fine print. Abrasives will quickly ruin a decal so avoid them when choosing a product for vinyl care. Also try to ensure that the product chosen leaves a dry finish. Wet finishes on exterior vinyl tend to collect pollutants from the air that may shorten the life of the decal. Understand that a decal or sidewall graphic is nothing more than a giant bumper sticker. As such, it will not last forever. Under ideal conditions it may stay attractive for three to five years at best. As stated earlier, care should be given to the surface regularly; every three to six months without fail. One final thought - buy a cover. Moisture, heat and sunlight all negatively affect the appearance of a recreation vehicle. A cover is the best defense. Most quality total coach covers can last three years or more and though the initial expense may appear high, the actual daily cost is less than a dollar. If you cannot purchase a cover, rotate the vehicle regularly to minimize severe exposure to any one side of the coach. Regular attention will have your coach and all decals looking sharp
|
|
|
[ Home ] [ Ask the RV Doctor ] [ RV Doctor Column ] [ Memorandums ] [ Interesting Articles ] [ Product Spotlight ] [RV Service Technician Training ] [ Seminars ] [ Links ] [ Gary's Bio ]
Send your questions and comments to:
gbunzer@cox.net |
|