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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #296 Dear RV Doctor, I am thinking about buying my first motorhome, a used 1989 Fleetwood Limited. The price is right, but the problem is both exterior side walls from front to back are covered with small cracks. I was told you could sand the glossy finish and the paint back to bare fiberglass and repaint with a good epoxy or similar paint. Or could I simply replace the "skin" on both sides? Gary Bellemare, (Montreal, PQ) Gary, replacing the exterior "skin" is not likely the tack you should take. The sidewalls on the Limited, as with many RVs, are laminated packages which include the outer skin of fiberglass or plastic sheeting, the bracing structure, (studs), the finished interior paneling and sandwiched in between, some type of insulation, usually rigid foam sheets. Assembled and glued under pressure or vacuum, the sidewall units are usually constructed in one piece making it virtually impossible to replace just the outer "skin" or the interior finished walls. Unfortunately, most jobs requiring a complete sidewall replacement, (pervasive delamination for example), are best left to the factory or to a properly equipped professional RV body shop. A slew of specialty tools and support rigging are needed for such a task. But I would question if what you see are actually cracks in the finish. Oftentimes, dirt, dust and road grime gets trapped in the surface oxidation or in small depressions in the finish. Unless the coach has suffered a collision, rarely will the fiberglass simply crack. Some coaches have suffered fiberglass damage caused by running the RV through commercial truck washes using hydrofluoric acid as a pre-rinse agent. The HF acid is good for cleaning away dirt and grime, but it's also purported to be prone to eating away at the mineral composition of the fiberglass. Repeated use may cause severe damage to fiberglass finishes. RVers should avoid any washing facility that uses HF. More often than not, however, the appearance of those small, spidery-looking imperfections are simply caused by dirt buildup in the oxidation. Try using a restorative product like Protect All's Fiberglass Oxidation Remover. Start in an inconspicuous area to see if it will remove the oxidation and along with it, the spidery dirt marks. It has been my experience that some products work better than others based on geographical climate, the severity of the oxidation and the method used when storing the RV during periods of non-use. There are indeed many comparable exterior care products available, so keep trying until you find one that satisfies your requirements. If indeed they are true fractures or if the oxidation has degraded beyond restorative possibilities, consult with a local RV collision repair facility with definitive experience prepping and painting motorhomes. It's suggested by the experts to stay away from "base coat/clear coat" paints. Automotive shops like them since they produce a finish that looks as though you could pass your hand right through it. For RVs though, they are more difficult to repair. Keep in mind, non-clear coat paints actually age and can easily be polished to renew the luster. And that you can do yourself. Dear Gary, I had a motorhome with Onan generator, but sold it. Now I have a 5th wheel trailer with no generator. Is it worth the effort installing an RV generator with a remote start or is it just better to get a portable unit and plug the trailer in? Is the installation difficult? I realize there is some wiring to do but I am capable of most projects. Hermilo Gonzalez, (Buffalo, WY) Hermilo, you will find many fifth-wheel travel trailers with an on-board power plant. It can be quite advantageous to have one, especially if you are likely to not camp in traditional campgrounds with full hook ups. Many fivers come "generator ready," meaning there already exists a vented compartment with all the wiring in place. Some even come equipped with a gas tank already installed. All that is needed is to bolt down a generator and wire it in to the pre-existing "J" box. If, however, you are planning a full installation from scratch, it can be daunting if you're not familiar with all the requirements. But many generators are safely installed in such a manner, though usually by the pros in the service shop. The first thing to consider is location. Do you have the interior room to construct a sealed compartment with access through an exterior door? Is there room under the coach to install a fuel container? Fuel tanks must be safely located with the fill neck spaced far away from any of the LP appliance vents. This too, must be looked at closely. The box must be metal lined and sealed completely from the interior spaces of the RV. The installation instructions will be quite clear as to how much ventilation area must be included in the access door. Aftermarket wiring of an add-on generator may be as simple as adding a 30-amp receptacle at or near the existing shoreline cord so that the cord can easily plug into that receptacle when operating the generator, or it may include an automatic transfer feature which requires additional wiring. There must be clearance for the exhaust components and the muffler. Low trailers present a problem in some instances. And exhaust pipes must not terminate under a window that opens. Though time consuming, it is doable to add a permanently mounted power plant in a fifth-wheel trailer. Only you can decide if it will be a DIY project or a pro installation. Dear RV Doc, How does one change the oil on the generator? What kind of oil should be put in the generator? What other kind of maintenance is important? What about the air filter? Ken Wilkins, (Hastings, MN) Ken, all manufacturers of RV generators have a prescribed schedule of regular maintenance for all their models. Be sure to refer to your brand and model user's guide for specific information. But basically, there will be a drain plug located underneath the unit or perhaps a drain valve is positioned in clear view near the bottom of the crankcase of the engine. Remove the drain plug or open the valve and allow the oil to drain into an appropriate container for waste oil. It is best to run the generator for a few minutes prior to draining in order to thin the oil somewhat by heating it up a little. This reduces the draining time. Most generator oil changes should take place every 50 to 100 hours. Different models have different requirements; so again, check the owner's manual for your particular model if a doubt exists. Unless you will be experiencing temperatures below freezing, use SAE 30 oil for your changes. On a brand new unit, change the oil after the first five hours of operation and then every 50 or 100 hours after that. It is further recommended to also change the oil filter (if so equipped), each time you change the oil. There may be three types of filters to track down and replace periodically: air filter, oil filter and fuel filters. Some units may also have a filter screen located inside the fuel pump. Other installations will find an in-line fuel filter somewhere in the system. There may even be a fuel filter attached to the carburetor on some generators. Generators are sturdy units, but extended use can take its toll. This toll is somewhat predictable, however, and regular maintenance by the owner will minimize any damaging neglect. Additionally the RV owner can usually prevent troublesome operation by adopting several good habits. Foremost, is the pre-start check. Before each startup of the generator, check the oil level. Then make sure the cooling air intake openings are free of debris and be sure the generator compartment is clean and free of dirt. The Golden Rule for all power plants is to never start or stop a generator with a load applied. For the health of the unit, make sure all AC appliances are turned off prior to starting or stopping the generator.
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