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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #290 Dear RV Doctor, I have a Duotherm 900 series furnace that ignites but never seems to burn "strong". The flame that I see through the inspection hole is always orange, never blue. The fan works fine (I think), and slowly the coach begins to warm. It never quite makes it to the temperature set at the thermostat and then the flame goes out completely. The fan, however, continues to blow eliminating any heat that the furnace may have generated. I asked at an RV dealer and the gentlemen told me that this furnace was somehow flawed and that I would be best served to throw it out and start with something new. Was he just trying to sell me a new furnace or telling me the truth? If I can repair it, should I? I also thought that perhaps the LP gas might have gone bad but the stove burns in a fine blue flame. T.J. Phillips, (Auburn, WA) Though revolutionary when first introduced, T.J., the 900 series ceramic burner has, unfortunately, not stood up to the test of time. Extremely high burner temperatures over time may have caused the burner head to be rendered faulty after a few years of heavy use. In some instances it has become literally impossible to create and maintain the correct fuel/air mixture to support proper combustion. In some cases, it is best to simply replace the unit with a newer furnace rather than attempt repairs. Seems your dealer was genuine, but I'm sure he wouldn't mind selling you the replacement furnace either. Look for one with the same BTU rating or one that is perhaps rated a little higher than your existing furnace. Dear RV Doctor, the kitchen sink in my motorhome is stopped up and water is standing in it. What do I do to clear the drain? Linda Brown, (Thompson Falls, MT) Linda, sounds like a simple blockage in the "P" trap or in another section of the drain piping at or near the sink. If you are not experiencing a stoppage at the lavatory sink or the tub/shower than perhaps this is an isolated incident just at the kitchen sink. I would avoid using any of the aftermarket drain cleaners like Drano or Instant Plumber due to the fact that some may be harmful to the "O" rings in the termination valves or to enzyme-based holding tank additives. I would suggest a somewhat messy though much safer method. Try to find a pan that will fit under the "P" trap under the sink. It's best to remove everything from under there anyway, just in case some water spills out. All RV "P" traps are removable by simply loosening the ring/nut at the middle of the trap as well as the uppermost ring/nut on the sink drain. They are probably not very tight and in some cases can be loosened by hand. Next, remove fully the uppermost nut and slide it up towards the sink. It may be necessary to completely disassemble the entire "P" trap, but in any event you'll want to remove it from the plumbing. This will allow all the sink water to drain, so be sure the pan you choose has a capacity larger than the sink contents. Chances are the blockage will be in the trap itself or just into the drain pipe as it exits the trap. Usually the blockage can be removed by flushing the trap segments out with a garden hose. If the blockage is further downstream it may be necessary to "snake" the drain with a small probe. Drain snakes are readily available at most home centers or hardware stores. You should be able to insert the snake right there under the sink and reach all the way to the holding tank, thereby clearing any blockage. By the way, it's not a bad idea to periodically remove and clean each "P" trap in the RV. Hope this helps. Dear RV Doctor, we have a 1999 Holiday Rambler Endeavor on a F-53 Ford chassis. When the fuel level is below 1/2 a tank, I can fill the tank without a problem. Anything above that level I cannot get fuel to run in the tank. It comes to the top and cuts off at the pump. As long as fuel is flowing I can top off the tank, but if the pump stops at the 3/4 mark, that is all the fuel I can get into the tank. Seems as if there is a flap that blocks the down-flow of fuel above the 1/2 tank level. William Terry, (La Place, LA) William, it could be that either the 3/4" ID fill vent hose is kinked or possibly blocked by trapped fuel. The fill tube on the F-53 chassis routes downward at the top portion of the fuel tank and then bends down inside the tank. It extends to approximately the 3/4 level on that particular tank. Apparently, once you reach the 3/4 level, fuel travels back up the fill neck shutting off the dispensing nozzle. Some fuel will also travel down into the vent tube itself, becoming a very effective "P" trap of sorts. Exit air is blocked from escaping the fuel container as gasoline enters. Eliminate the "P" trap or the kinked hose in the 3/4" ID vent hose and the problem will be solved. Additionally, make sure there is a continuous downward slope of the fill neck all the way to the fuel tank. And make sure there are no sharp bends in the vent hose that can become kinked. Dear Gary, my patio awning roller is warped. Any suggestions how to straighten the tube? It is probably curved about 3 or 4 inches. Dick Lindsay, (Graham, TX) Unfortunately Dick, I am unaware of any method to straighten a bent or curved extruded aluminum awning roller. Previous attempts have left rollers somewhat straight, though slightly kinked, weakened, bent or damaged in some way which makes the fabric unable to roll straight and true. The only viable method to straighten this condition would be to run the tube back through the extruder once again; if that were even possible. Wish I had better news, but in my experience, it is best to simply replace the entire tube assembly; a relatively common occurrence. Dear RV Doctor, just wondering - we keep seeing references to "gaucho sofa" or "slide out with gaucho". What exactly is it referring to? Jim Sinclair, (Brentwood Bay, BC) Jim, a gaucho is basically a convertible sofa or a sleeper sofa - a seating apparatus that also makes into a bed. How the word originated is a very good question. Perhaps some astute English major or RV historian will enlighten us all. I'll keep you posted.
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