RV Doctor Column RV Doctor #288 Dear RV Doctor, we camp in a local campground and the voltage drops down to 95 volts at times. Do the voltage boosters, like those advertised in RV magazines, really work. I am concerned about running my appliances on this low voltage. Mark Altman, (Cranston, RI) Mark, if you are indeed situated at the tail end of a long circuit, you just may not be getting enough voltage to your rig. Low AC voltage is notorious for causing damage to roof top air conditioners, microwave ovens and a plethora of other sensitive electronic gear like computers, DVD players, VCRs and some medical equipment. Voltage measurements approaching 103 volt AC and below should be considered too low. Damage to such components is also possible should the frequency vary greatly from the 60-Hertz standard. Since the typical voltmeter cannot measure the frequency of the alternations, other specialty equipment is needed. Still, it is necessary to have the frequency checked from time to time. Perhaps the park maintenance department can verify the frequency for you. Checking the frequency from time to time, by the way, is also important for those RVers with on-board generators. In any event, do bring this situation to the park owner's attention. My guess is that it's an older park, of which many are typically under-serviced for the alternating current demands of today's RVs. I would avoid staying there until appropriate power is provided. You may find higher voltages in a different area of the park. Unfortunately I cannot comment on those, so called, power boosters. All products mentioned or featured in the RV Doctor column have been personally tested by me and are literally run through the paces of normal and abnormal operation. In the past we have requested some of the boosters for testing, but unfortunately, no manufacturer has opted to let us test one. Hmmm. Dear RV Doc, I just purchased a 2001 Damon Intruder and I really like it. I just returned from a trip to Ohio. But on the trip and even now I've noticed that my auxiliary batteries do not run any of my 12-volt components, (lights, water pump, etc.) The auxiliary batteries are fully charged and my "in use" light is on. Everything works with outside power as well with my generator. What's up? Lenny Spicer, (Lawton, OK) Lenny, it appears as though the automatic AC to DC converter is failing to switch back over to the battery-supplied voltage. There is an automatic relay inside the converter that closes when AC current is sensed thereby allowing the converter output to power the DC circuits in the RV. When AC current is taken away, (when you unplug or stop the generator), the contacts are supposed to open once again and battery voltage is then routed to the DC circuits. Oftentimes, the relay contacts become fused together and refuse to let go, effectively rendering the "ready and waiting" battery current motionless; it becomes an incomplete circuit. And since there is no AC to convert to DC, the converter lies there lifeless as well and the result is - no DC voltage from either source. In some rare cases, the relay contacts can be repaired, but it is more prudent to have the relay replaced. Contact the manufacturer of the converter to find the closest service facility to you, or contact Bob Hookway or Wes Miller at Master Tech - 800-848-0558. They repair virtually all makes of converters and have a quick turn-around time to get you back on the road soon. Dear Gary I have a water leak in the bathroom floor, now the bathroom floor is very soft and buckling in places. Can I get some advice on replacing the soft floor? Teresa Yung, (Tacoma, WA) Teresa, if moisture happens to seep into the floor from any source, over time it will be necessary to replace the damaged sections. There is no quick fix for water induced damage - replacement is the only true solution. The good news is that in most cases, replacing damaged flooring can be performed by anyone with access to some power tools, some common sense, a little construction aptitude, a block of time and a generous amount of patience. Many RV owners can easily handle this chore. If, however, the affected area extends beneath wall partitions or cabinets, it is best to have a professional do the job. More often than not, though, damage is contained to a small area and repairs can be accomplished with relative ease. In most instances, floor damage will be quite evident by pulling back the carpeting or by removing the toilet, or by simply investigating a suspicious spot or stain. If the carpeting is still usable, carefully remove the entire section and safely store it until the flooring has been replaced. Keep in mind that RV floor construction methods vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but the typical floor is usually bolted to a steel chassis after assembly. The top floor is usually applied in 4 x 8 sheets. The joists are typically twenty four inches or sixteen inches on center, but this dimension may vary between floor plans and categories of coaches. The size and positioning of the supports, cross beams and joists also vary depending on the weight and overall length of the RV. Quite often, the top flooring is attached to the beams with screws, nails, or staples so a visible line of fasteners will indicate where most supports are located. To replace the flooring without damaging the infra-structure (or the saw itself if the floor joists are made of steel), determine the exact floor thickness of the flooring material. Use any size hole saw attached to an electric drill motor to accomplish this. The larger the hole saw the better. Not only will a sample plug of the floor thickness be obtained, but a large hole saw will allow for an easy inspection of the inner floor area by using a flashlight and mirror. After determining the location of cross supports, joists or other blocking that may be in the sub-floor, lay out and mark the damaged piece to be removed. The cut lines should be directly over the center of a joist so that when the new piece is inserted, it will be supported by an existing joist or beam on at least two sides. Additional supports running the opposite direction may have to be added in order to accomplish this. Use a framing square to be sure the cut-out area will be straight and true. Use an electric circular saw to make the cuts. Set the depth of the cut to a little less than the measured floor thickness if the joists and supports are made of steel. If they are all wood, the saw blade depth should be set a little deeper than the thickness of the flooring. If the damaged area extends to the base of a cabinet it may be necessary to obtain an electric reciprocating saw that will enable a cut to be made closer to the obstructing cabinet. Once all the perimeter cuts have been made, remove any and all screws, staples or nails that may have been used to secure the original flooring to the supports. After all fasteners have been removed, lift or pry the damaged section out. After removing the damaged piece, examine the beams and sub-floor supports for rot or damage. If unaffected, proceed with the replacement. If there has been extended damage to wooden joists or supports, those rotted pieces must also be removed and replaced. Measure the lengths needed and cut new supports out of 2" x 2" or 2" x 4" lumber. Secure these to the available "good wood" inside the floor. (NOTE: In some cases it may be necessary to remove a larger section of plywood than was originally intended in order to secure sub-floor components to the existing, structurally sound framework. The goal is to have a solid support below the entire perimeter of the replacement piece prior to inserting it in place.) After the sub-floor components are in place, measure the entire cut out area and transfer the dimensions to the new piece of plywood of the same thickness as the existing flooring. Be sure to replace all wet, rotted or deteriorated insulation found inside the floor. Test the new piece for a proper fit, then glue the new section to the supports and secure it with the appropriate type of flathead screws. Be sure the screw heads are countersunk into the plywood so as not to interfere with the finished floor covering. Next, use a pre-mixed floor patch to fill in any voids or gaps around the perimeter of the replacement section. Then, sand smooth any rough areas or joints. Commercial grade floor patch is available at most hardware stores or home centers. Remember, severe water damage does not occur from one night of a leaky faucet. It happens gradually over a period of time. It is imperative that the source of the invading moisture be located and repaired accordingly. It would do little good to invest the time and materials needed to do a large floor repair and then not to repair the source of the water leak.
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