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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #286 Dear RV Doctor, we have just purchased a 1988 Fleetwood Bounder, 34-foot. In the most recent rainstorm, we have noticed some water entering at the bottom of most windows. At one of our rear side windows, there is an excess amount of sealant which is visible at the bottom. Can we apply additional sealer around the outside of the window? Could it be time for a total resealing? Can you walk us through that as far as which products you have had success with, etc? We're fairly handy and believe we can do the job. Should anything be applied to the inside of the windows? Derek Kolm, (Dover, FL) Derek, indeed I will walk you through the process of correctly sealing RV windows, but first I want you to check one other item. If I'm not mistaken, that vintage Bounder has sliding windows equipped with two small drain holes visible and accessible from the exterior. These two drain slots are cut into the bottom of each extruded window frame and usually covered by a small, rectangular plastic cover which snaps into place over the drains. Pop those little covers off each window and be sure the drain holes are clear of any obstruction. There have been instances when the drains become plugged, moisture will gather in the bottom slider track of the window. I have actually seen it overflow the track and drip down the interior paneling. If indeed the drain holes are clear, then it probably is time to reseal each window. Here's what to do. Check the putty tape closely all around each window. If any portion of the putty shows signs of deterioration, it is best the entire window be removed and resealed with new putty tape. Over time, all putty tape will harden and crack. Sealing only with silicone will help some, but eventually new butyl tape will have to be applied. Butyl tape (putty tape) is available at any RV supply store. To remove the windows, first remove the garnish trim around the perimeter of the window from inside the RV. If you use a power screwdriver be careful not to strip the heads of the screws. After removing the entire garnish trim have a partner support the window from outside the coach and carefully and slowly push the complete window and frame outward from the inside. For large windows it is best to have two helpers outside. Be careful also not to tear or rip the siding; the putty tape will probably stick to the exterior siding as you push. Once removed, lay the window flat onto a large piece of cardboard. Be sure to remove all of the old sealant before applying the new. Keep in mind, different sidewall "skin" patterns have deeper recesses and may require more than one layer of putty tape. It is recommended that a liberal amount be applied and allowed to squeeze out when the windows are reinstalled. If the screws do not tighten properly, replace them with the next larger size. Also be sure the window is "centered" in its opening, (equal spacing all around the perimeter), prior to installing the garnish. After the window and garnish "sandwiches" the sidewall tightly, trim the excess putty with a sharp razor knife for a nice, crisp finished seal. Be careful not to cut through the siding. The exposed edge of the putty tape can be smoothed easily by moistening a shop towel with a spray of Protect All protectant or WD-40. This helps close any pores that may be left in the putty. Additionally, a small, thin bead of clear silicone sealant can be applied over the putty on the top edges of the windows and slightly around each upper radius. By checking the sealant on all the compartment doors, windows and anything else screwed to the side of the RV each camping season and by resealing when necessary, you will be assured you have done all you can do to eliminate those pesky water leaks. Dear Gary, I want to replace the really worn carpet in my 1996 fifth wheel. The slide out seems to make this hard to figure out how to do. Is there a way I can replace the carpet where it tucks under the slide? Ron Bramlett, (Nashville, TN) Ron, I have spoken to major RV manufacturers about this dilemma and most agree the best thing to do is to either partially or completely remove the slide out in order to properly recarpet the coach. Some have suggested that well experienced carpetbaggers, I mean carpet layers, can successfully recarpet the RV and slide section without removing the slide, but I've seen some rigs where that would be, in all likelihood, impossible. Checking with a local carpet expert is about the best advice I can offer without actually inspecting your RV. Dear RV Doctor, I need to know about replacing a roof vent. Currently, I have the crank handle and the screen off from the inside. There appears to be putty around the opening. What are the steps to replacing the vent? I have the replacement and would like to repair it myself. Jim Hague, (Lexington, KY) Jim, I am assuming you mean the entire vent assembly and not just the vent lid. All standard 14-inch roof vents are attached to the roof by screws or rivets through a flange that surrounds the vent. The putty you see from inside is actually applied to the underside of this flange. The vent assembly is then centered in the opening and secured to the roof. A coating or sealant is usually applied over the screw heads to leak-proof the installation. You will probably have to scrape away the existing sealant covering the screws or rivets and then simply remove each screw or drill out each rivet. The vent will be kinda stuck to the roof so it will require some effort to pry it up. Take care not to damage the roof material while doing this. After the old vent is removed, clean away all remnants of the putty and sealant left around the opening. Start with a very clean surface around the 14-inch opening in the roof. Then, as above, apply new putty under the flange, center the assembly and screw it down. Trim away any putty that oozed out from under the flange. Seal the screw heads with silicone or a like substance and apply an RV coating over the silicone and around the entire flange of the vent. If you have to drill out rivets, I recommend squirting some silicone gel down into each rivet hole you drill and use screws instead when securing the new vent.
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