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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #285 Dear RV Doctor, I have recently purchased a 1998 29' Tracker Trailstar Class C motorhome that is in almost perfect shape except it appears that the previous owner must have accidentally run through a patch of wet cement that splattered and dried on the side of the fiberglass gel coat. I have tried everything including fiberglass rubbing compound to remove it. Any suggestions would be most appreciated. Brion McMullen, (Mechanicsburg, PA) Brion, here is what the exterior care experts suggest in this case, but you should first try this on a small, inconspicuous area if at all possible. Purchase a plastic putty knife and try to carefully scrape the cement away. If it appears very difficult to scrape, try wetting the cement with plain water. This may soften it some so that it lifts off the surface without too much difficulty. If the plastic knife just doesn't cut it (no pun intended), opt for a blunt-edged metal putty knife. Use very gentle pressure and carefully take your time. You certainly do not want to dig into the fiberglass. The cement should lift off the surface with some persistence. A residue will remain after the cement has been removed though it should be even or flush with the surface of the fiberglass. In other words, no bumps or humps. Since cement is an alkaline compound, neutralize this residue by soaking the residued area with straight vinegar. Use a very soft brush to work the vinegar into the residue. Then, completely wash the area and dry with a soft cotton cloth. If some light brush or knife marks remain at the surface of the fiberglass, try Meguair's Cleaner Wax to remove them. Follow the directions on the label. If the marks are more severe, try Blue Magic Liquid Metal Polish or Protect All's Fiberglass Oxidation Remover and Color Restorer. All three products will leave behind a wax on the finish so you will be good to go for about three months though you will now probably have to wax the entire RV so the finish remains equal all around. It is recommended to wax the RV every three months anyway and it's my guess it's been longer than that since the last wax job. By waxing regularly, cement and other road grime will have a more difficult time sticking to the finish. (Many thanks to Ken Neuman of Protect All for an assist on this sticky question). Dear RV Doc, I have a Duo-therm gravity furnace in my camper. I was having problems with the pilot not staying on after I released the pilot button, so I have installed a new pilot assembly, but the new one won't stay on either and way too much gas seems to be coming out because it explodes when I try to ignite it. Any ideas? Jerry Vanhoose, (Bloomdale, OH) Jerry, better hold off on using that furnace until you can have it checked by a professional service technician. It is quite possible the orifice in that new assembly is rated and sized for natural gas instead of LP. The correct orifice size can be verified by checking the model number of the furnace and contacting an appliance expert in your area or by contacting the manufacturer. Also, the delivery pressure must be checked with an accurate manometer. I remember some of those gravity furnaces being a little temperamental when replacing components attached directly to the combustion chamber. Be sure to use a new gasket each time the pilot assembly is removed for cleaning, etc. Air leaks around faulty gaskets, caused by reusing the old ones, can create havoc with not only the pilot flame, but also the main burner. Also, you will obviously want to avoid causing carbon-monoxide leakage into the living portion of the camper. By the way, if your camper does not have a CO monitor, have one installed. It's very cheap insurance considering the alternative. Dear RV Doctor, I am thinking about buying a 1989 Coachman class C motorhome. The price seems too good to be true. It is a one-owner RV with a Chevrolet chassis and a cabover section with a bed. They are asking $2,000 for the RV with a salvage title. The RV seems to look okay, but how would I know if all the appliances light and work okay? Should I buy this used RV or wait for something else to come along? The price is the thing I am looking at the most right now. What do you think? Gwen Light, (Baltimore, MD) Gwen, you didn't mention if you are buying from the original owner or from a selling dealership. I would recommend you take the coach to a reputable RV service facility and have them perform an aftermarket PDI (pre-delivery inspection). This process involves a complete check of every function on the RV; the appliances, the LP system, the low voltage and high voltage electrical system, the fresh water and waste systems, etc. It would normally take about 4 - 5 hours for a thorough PDI. But it would be worth the cost to sidestep any performance problems with the costlier components, i.e. the refrigerator or air conditioner, etc. Things tend to start falling apart at or near twelve to fifteen years on an average, even with proper maintenance and not knowing the history, other than one owner, it would be money well spent. Perhaps the seller would agree to split the cost. After all, he should have nothing to hide. This brings up the salvage title issue. Was there exterior damage to the coach or the Chevy van portion of the RV? It might be well worth the effort to have the engine, transmission, and complete chassis looked at as well. A two thousand dollar boat anchor gets older than sleeping on the ground. Again, seek out a reputable chassis repair facility familiar with motorhome chassis'. I would err on the side of over-caution in this instance. Dear RV Doc, the plastic surrounding the refrigerator vent on the outside of the RV has turned yellow. Is there any way of restoring this back to its original white color? David Roesch, (Sandia Park, NM) David, unfortunately you are seeing the results of plastic oxidation to which there is no cure. You could have possibly slowed the process some by applying a preservative periodically, but when the yucky contents of the air attack polyethylene, polypropylene, ABS or any other type of thermoplastic, the process cannot be reversed. Replacement is the only viable solution.
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