RV Doctor Column RV Doctor #276 Dear RV Doc, my husband and I recently bought a used 2000 Jayco Eagle motor home, a full basement model. After buying it, we discovered the grey water tank does not seem to drain properly. We immediately contacted the RV service shop that had inspected the unit before we purchased it. They flushed it several times. We took it out for the first time this weekend, used it, and flushed it several times hoping to get rid of anything that may still be blocking the pipe and/or the valve. It seems to come out strong when you first open the valve, but then slows to a trickle, even though the gauge shows it being 2/3 to 1/3 full. Also, the valve seems to leak, so that when you pull the drain cap off, liquid spills out immediately before you can attach the hose. We thought it was just grey water, but when we emptied it today, blue liquid came out, indicating that the black water valve was leaking, too. Also, the gauge for the fresh water tank usually reads empty, even when we have filled it. We have shown this to the RV shop that said the unit worked perfectly. When they fill it up, it shows full. When we fill it up, it shows empty. We even filled it up and drove it to their shop, stopped, checked the gauge (it read empty), went right in and got the mechanic, showed it to him and it read full! Do you have any advice as to how to proceed with these problems? Janet Nelson, (Sandy, UT) Janet, welcome to the joys of holding tank-itis. All RVers, at some point during their travels, have experienced much the same dilemmas; either the monitor panel reads inaccurately and/or the termination valves leak - usually all attributable to a lack of maintenance, in your case, by the previous owner. Holding tank systems, much like LP appliances, the generator, or any other component with moving parts, must be serviced periodically. Of course, there are plenty of examples of mis-engineering out there also. You just may be suffering from a combination of ills. It is doubtful the gray water holding tank is plugged or blocked. The fact that the monitor panel still indicates some level of waste water is usually indicative of soiled/contaminated probes inside the tank. More common with the black water tank, it can and does happen with the liquid waste water also. Cooking oils, soaps, shampoos and other gunk can actually make an electrical connection of sorts and short across the probes causing an erratic reading. Also, closer inspection will be necessary to verify the proper drain slope from the outlet fitting at the tank all the way to the termination point where you connect the sewer hose. Obviously water cannot flow uphill, so be sure you have plenty of drop for the entire distance. It will be necessary to remove the termination valves to replace the seals anyway, so carefully rinse and drain as much as you possibly can from each tank. Flush both tanks with fresh water and back-flush each using the "RV Hydroflush" back-flush adapter by Valterra. It may be necessary to remove a few sections of piping to get back to wherever the termination valve is located. Be sure the adapter plates on each side of each valve line up properly and that the slide mechanism fully opens and closes. Any binding of the fittings and/or the valve and they might not close all the way. Lube the seals with white lithium grease and carefully tighten the four mounting screws in an even manner. Do not over-tighten. This will warp the adapter plates. Run the slide open and closed a few times to be sure they are operating properly. If there indeed is some type of blockage in the drain piping from the gray water holding tank, it will be revealed as you disassemble the puzzle of all the ABS fittings and the valve. Obviously, clean or replace any blocked or damaged fitting or pipe. By rinsing and flushing the holding tanks after each evacuation and by using some of the many products available at Camping World, you should be able to enjoy many years of trouble-free operation of the holding tank assemblies. Be sure to check out products like "Level Gauge Cleaner" by Thetford. Another device, the "RV Quickie Flush," from Camco, is permanently installed in the side of each holding tank and cleans the tank interior, including the probes, via a multi-directional spray head. A hose attaches and delivers city water to the device. There are many variations of this design by other makers as well. Dear Gary, What RV code violation would that be and what would be so "cost prohibitive?" Jim Barrett , (full-timer in FL) Jim, When two air conditioners are typically installed on an RV equipped with only 30-amp service, there exists special wiring and a switching combination that makes it possible to run either one of the A/C's, but not both at the same time, except with the generator power. True, it is physically possible to install an upgraded power cord, additional panelboard, etc., but the existing wiring would have to also be upgraded along with the transfer switch between the generator and shoreline. I believe it would be cost prohibitive from the standpoint of having to literally rewire and re-equip the entire electrical system. Such retrofitting on an "already completed" RV would be very costly. Many conductors are routed through studs and attached to walls, ceilings, etc. This is assuming you could find a qualified electrician to perform the retrofit. The liability factor alone would deter most competent electricians. It would also be difficult to even bid this type of retrofit, not knowing how some wires were routed. It will probably be necessary to remove many interior components such as walls or cabinets, just to gain access. Again, cost prohibitive. As far as code violations, the ANSI A119.2 RV Standards and the National Electrical Code, Article 551-46(a) requires that a 50-amp, 120/240-volt power supply assembly be "factory-supplied and/or factory-installed." Any reputable electrician would definitely balk at this one. Additionally, Article 551-42(d) requires that the six or more circuits associated with a 50-amp service must, "ensure a reasonable balance between phases." In other words, it's not simply a matter of adding an additional panelboard; it also requires that there be a balance between the two regarding the current requirements among the branch circuits. This again may require a complete revamping of the existing circuits in order to obtain that balance. The NEC is also quite specific as to the exact location the panelboard must be installed; not always possible in every instance for a second panel. So all in all, yes it can physically be accomplished, though I submit the two mitigating factors remain; conformity to the NEC (and the associated liability), and the cost-worthiness of such a project. Dear Gary, we are interested in buying a used RV. They often tell us how many hours are on the generator. What is the life of a generator? What would be considered low hours vs. high hours? This info would be so helpful to know if what we are looking at is "very used" or a good sale. Janet Bousquet, (Worcester, MA) Janet, RV generators are sturdy units, but extended use without proper maintenance can take its toll. This toll is somewhat predictable, however, and manufacturers usually specify maintenance and inspection intervals based on the number of operational running hours such as every 50, 100, 200 and 500 hours. It's really hard to determine just how many hours per year would be an average. And keep in mind, a well maintained generator will last indefinitely. With all the amenities found in the typical campground today it would probably be rare for the casual RVer to rack up more than 150 hours or so per year. Unless of course, they spend a lot of time off the beaten path or at tailgate parties, (many do both). A generator load bank test can be performed to determine how well it responds to varying loads. This will provide some indication to its general state of well-being. Many proactive RV shops will offer this service. If you have a serious concern about too many hours based on the year of manufacture, the only true way to determine how hard the generator has been operated is to remove and inspect the cylinder heads. A close internal inspection of the heads will reveal to what extent the unit has been pushed. Carbon buildup and cylinder wall scoring, etc., all provide clues. But even if it has a ton of hours and the owner can verify that the manufacturer-recommended maintenance interval checks were performed, I wouldn't be overly concerned.
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