RV Doctor Column RV Doctor #273 Dear Gary, how can I get a metal (or tin-like) taste out of my RV's water tank? I have always flushed the tank with clean water before every trip, then I fill it with clean water, but it still tastes bad. We live in an area where our water is supposedly the best right out the tap. Our RV is a 1991 Flair and we bought it new. Appreciate your answer to help us solve this foul problem. Bud Harrison, (Burlingame, CA) Bud, the most effective method of removing bacteria and contaminants such as trihalomethanes, (THMs), volatile organic contaminates (VOCs), pesticides, fungicides and metals such as lead is by using a point-of-use, POU, filtration system. I have realized good results from the products produced by Hydro Life. Available at any Camping World outlet, Hydro Life has perfected a filtering media which employs carbon along with a patented media called KDF. KDF causes an electro-chemical reaction which neutralizes harmful chemicals and dangerous metals such as lead. To filter all water coming into the RV, use an in-line filter attached to the city water entry. Additionally, be sure to use an in-line filter on your fill hose when filling the fresh water tank. There are many models on the market, but be sure the filtration system satisfies the requirements of Standard 53: Drinking Water Treatment Units - Health Effects, as determined by NSF, a third party certifying agency. Though no official standard exists for POU filters, virtually all public health officials adopt the standards of the NSF. Dear RV Doctor, I own a 1995 Coachman Catalina series 23-1/2 foot 5th wheel. The RV battery does not take a charge while the unit is plugged in, however it does charge while I am hooked up to my tow vehicle. I have checked all the fuses and wiring that I can trace with no problems found. Alexander Ching, (Fallon, NV) Alexander, Sounds like it's time to check the converter/charger in your RV, Alexander. The AC side of the converter is either plugged into a receptacle or is wired directly to the 120-volt AC system, usually always through a circuit breaker. Check the circuit for the converter and be sure that breaker is not tripped. If the breaker is fine, then the problem may be inside the converter. Most converters utilize an internal relay that switches to converter power when plugged in and switches back to battery power when disconnected from the shoreline. Relays can become stuck or burned over time and not switch from one source to the other, thereby creating an open in the battery circuit. Another possibility is a blown fuse in the battery charge circuit itself. A fuse could be situated in the converter or in-line near the battery. Check each of these possibilities. Chances are it will be one of them. If all else fails, send me the make and model of that converter and we'll dig a little deeper. Dear Gary, I have a Class A motorhome and we leave the refrigerator on all the time. Will this shorten the life of the refrigerator? Walter Heathcock, (Quitman, MS) Walter, As a general rule, Walter, the more any component or device is used, the quicker it will wear out. Even though there are no moving parts to an absorption refrigerator, constant use may not shorten its life drastically, but it will certainly get there faster. Do you actually use the refrigerator all the time? If you do and you truly need to operate it non-stop, be doubly sure it is level and it has plenty of ventilation at the rear of the refrigerator around the cooling unit. If running on 120-volt AC electricity, the heating element will probably be the first component to go. If you operate mostly on LP, be sure to clean and service the burner regularly and have the pressure checked at least quarterly. If you do not need it to actually refrigerate food, turn it off and block the door open when not in use. Dear RV Doc, I just got a used 1985 Alpenlite 5th Wheel. I noticed when I plugged into shore power the outlets all tested at 117-volts versus the 119-120-volts coming in at the extension cord. Is this normal and will it affect the longevity of my appliances? Jim Schrankel, (Bothell, WA) Jim, 117-volts AC is quite the norm on many city electrical grids. There is always some voltage drop through all the devices inside the RV, but most components are safely operated anywhere in the 103-volt to 125-volt range. This poses no threat to your appliances. Keep monitoring the voltage though, and if it continues to drop or vary considerably, have an experienced RV technician perform a hi-pot test on the AC system. Something you can do in the meantime; with the voltage disconnected, tighten all the connections at the breaker box inside the coach and double-check any wire nuts in the system. Though not mandated by code, I always recommend applying a wrap of electricians tape around all wire nuts just in case the constant jostling loosens them. Dear RV Doctor, I have a 1975 Dodge Tioga. I'm a first time RV owner and hope to travel the Southwest this summer with my family. A friend of mine took it out for a ride and knocked off the top of a vent above the refrigerator. Rain got in for a night (light rain) and I have no idea if it caused any damage. I don't even know what this vent is for? Can you please shed some light? Until I get a replacement, I've covered the hole with plastic and tape. Would appreciate any help. Harrv Billon, (San Francisco, CA) Harry, do not operate the refrigerator with that vent opening blocked off! It is vital that the refrigerator have a clear and open chimney from the lower door on the side of the RV behind the refrigerator, all the way up the back of the cooling unit and out through the roof opening. If you operate the refrigerator in this condition you will surely do damage to the cooling unit. Heat transfer and heat build-up must exit through that opening. If anything, it is much better to operate the refrigerator with just the hole in the roof than to block the opening completely. What little rain that may have entered that area will not do grave damage to the refrigerator. Refrigerator roof vents are readily available at any RV supply store or at Camping World and can be easily installed by the RV handyman. Use plenty of putty tape or strip sealant under the flange of the vent assembly and secure it to the roof with screws. Add a layer of Liquid Roof or silicone sealant over the screw heads and all will be fine. But until then, use an ice chest.
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