RV Doctor Column RV Doctor #268 Dear RV Doctor, my brother lives in an RV which has two propane gas tanks on it. The tanks were filled and yet were both empty in much less than a month's time. How can we determine if there is a leak or what type of company would we contact to have it checked? Sylvia Bosma, (Biloxi, MS) Sylvia, unless your brother uses tons of hot water and runs the refrigerator and furnace non-stop and throws elaborate parties for all the RVers nearby, chances are a leak exists. Especially if the unit is an older RV. The leak could be at the tanks, inside the coach or internal to any of the appliances. It's best he not operate any of the LP appliances until all leaks have been eliminated. You did not state what size LP containers your brother has, but less than one month's usage is a good indicator something is amiss. A specialty device called a manometer is used to calibrate and adjust the LP regulator and it is also used to test the entire system for leaks. Send me a self-addressed and stamped envelope and I can forward to you the exact instructions for leak checking the RV with a manometer. Of course, any local RV facility can perform the same test for you. Simply locate one though the Yellow Pages. LP leaks should be taken very seriously. Dear RV Doc, the wires going to my plug on the tow vehicle fell on the exhaust pipe and melted, causing every thing to short out. I have replaced both the tow vehicle and travel trailer plug and electric brake actuator. I can't get any of the running lights to work. I can get the left brake light to come on but it is the brake side of the bulb that comes on. When I put the right signal light on all of the lights blink with the signal light. When I put the left signal light on nothing happens, but when I put the brakes on all the lights come on also. I hooked all the wires up on the trailer side up like the plug said, red to red and etc., but when I touched the electric brakes wire and ground together I get a spark, I do not understand that because it is not hooked to the tow vehicle plug. I have the tow vehicle hooked up like this; brown-running lights, green- right signal, yellow- left signal. When I hook the trailer to the tow vehicle the brakes on the trailer come on without pushing the brakes. Any Ideas? John Henson, (Livonia, LA) Talk about confusing! Obviously, John, the melted wires have necessitated a need to return to square one and identify all wires on both sides of the equation. Your symptoms do reveal some clues, however, to be safe, let's start from scratch. First, disconnect and remove the existing plug connections and be sure the trailer is not connected to shore power. With all the wires hanging loose at the trailer plug, you will have a hot wire coming from the battery on the trailer (that's why you saw the spark with the plug disconnected). Identify the trailer hot wire by using a voltmeter or 12-volt test light connected to a clean frame ground. Also using the voltmeter or the test light, identify the ground wire in the harness. Then, using the hot wire on the trailer as the power source, touch each of the remaining wires in the trailer harness except the ground wire. Label each as they are tested and identified. You should be able to hear the electric brakes click when they are activated. To be sure, raise one side of one axle and spin the tire, then touch the hot wire to the purported brake wire. If more than one circuit is powered by touching just one wire at a time you probably have a melted harness somewhere on the trailer and deeper troubleshooting is in order. After identifying and labeling all the wires on the trailer, check the tow vehicle. Here's where it could get tricky. If the circuits on the tow vehicle melted all along the harness, it may be necessary to completely rewire the tow vehicle harness. In any event, it will be necessary to trace each circuit, one at a time, like on the trailer. Identify each turn signal, the running lamps, the brake wire from the controller, the hot wire from the tow vehicle system and the ground wire. Tap into these circuits as far back as necessary to insure that only one circuit is energized at one time. Bring the new harness to the rear of the tow vehicle and make the necessary connections to the new plug and trailer connector. In many cases of shorted, melted or burned wiring, it is much faster and easier to simply cut out all the damage and start virtually from scratch. Take your time and be sure to identify each and every wire. Obviously, be sure to carefully secure all wiring as it is routed along the frame or under the tow vehicle. And I probably do not need to say it, but do keep all wires away from exhaust components. Dear Doc, I purchased a 1973 Dodge Class C motorhome from an individual. It was manufactured by a company called El Dorado. It had some extensive ice storm-related damage to the roof and sides which I am in the process of repairing, while also completely renovating the interior. The original roof dropped off about eight inches by the rear axles and the back wall tilted toward the front about four feet above the floor line. I am making the back wall vertical and the top the same height from front to rear and installing a new Dicor rubber roof. Are there any drawbacks to my modification to the original shape of the coach and do you know of a place that sells that aluminum siding that was used by El Dorado? I also need some more of the molding that is used at the top of the side walls; do you know what it is called and where I can get it? Thanks in advance. James Remmert, (Tuscaloosa, AL) James, you should experience no problems by changing the wall angle or any other structural variances. El Dorado was distinct in their designs, but adding your personal touch will cause no harm. The best source for exterior products such as moldings, trim and aluminum skin is: All-Rite RV Specialists 1500 Shelton Drive Hollister, CA 95023 800-262-6541 They have warehouses in the south as well. They can probably provide all that you need for your retro. The molding is either "J" molding or "awning rail." All-Rite will also be able to match the design on the aluminum siding or at least be so close, no one would ever tell the difference.
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