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RV Doctor ColumnRV Doctor #266 Dear RV Doctor, I am looking to install an LPG system into a home-made pop-up truck camper. The system will run a two burner gas stove and a Hydro-flame heater. Trying to do this right, I got a hold of the ANSI A119.2 standard for RV's. The section on routing gas lines is somewhat vague, but it says that gas lines cannot be concealed under floors, in walls or in concealed construction spaces. Can you perhaps shed some light on this? Do I need to run my gas lines inside the unit? Is 1/4 OD line sufficient to run both my appliances? I would be very happy if you could help with this or maybe direct me towards some reference material. Thank You! Patrick Clark, (Salt Lake City, UT) Patrick, indeed, the LP lines must not be hidden in walls or floor cavities. Every fitting must be accessible at all times, so the best way is to route the tubing inside the cabinets and up to the appliances. When the tubing must pass through a wall or partition, use a plastic or rubber grommet around the opening to prevent chaffing on the tubing which might wear through over time. Assuming your LP container compartment is located on the side of the camper and protrudes into the camper under a cabinet, your installation will be quite simple. You will need a bulkhead fitting (available at any hardware store or RV supply house) to pass through the LP container cabinet into the living area of the camper. If you have read the ANSI A119.2 you are aware the LP container compartment must be metal-lined and sealed from the interior of the living space. Pre-made compartments are available that just slip into an opening cut into the side of the camper. If you construct your own box out of plywood, use galvanized metal to line the inside of the compartment and then seal all the joints and seams with silicone sealant. Use a flexible rubber hose from the regulator on the cylinder to the bulkhead fitting. On the other side of the bulkhead fitting you can then run copper tubing to each appliance installing the tee where it is convenient for you, yet accessible. Use only flare fittings. The size of the tubing is dependent on the BTU requirement of each appliance. 1/4-inch tubing will probably suffice, but it is probably best to use 3/8-inch tubing and fittings in case you ever add a refrigerator or water heater. If you only want to install the smallest tubing possible, check the BTU ratings of each appliance and the length each run of tubing will be and let me know. Charts are available that will determine the size based on this criteria. All in all, it is a relatively simple installation. Just be sure to leak check the entire system before pressurizing it with LP. Have a qualified RV technician set the LP regulator at 11.0 inches of water column using a manometer. Dear RV Doc, what are the state by state requirements or restrictions, if any, regarding towing a vehicle on a tow dolly behind a motorhome? Are there any states that prohibit towing on a tow dolly? George & Marcia Bolton, (Rochester, NY) George and Marcia, to better address your specific question I must refer you to a publication produced by AAA that is most advantageous. The "Digest of Motor Laws" details a complete state by state section, plus all the provinces of Canada, in which they discuss all the rules and regulations regarding licensing, towing, etc. To list each state in the column is obviously not feasible, since the information literally fills a thick book. Contact your local AAA office or write to: Traffic Safety Department 1000 AAA Drive Heathrow, FL 32746-5063 But keep in mind when towing a dinghy, the braking capacity of the motorhome must also be considered. Maximum braking capacity is determined by the chassis manufacturer so check with your dealer or the manufacturer to determine if any limitations pertain to the braking capacity of your motorhome. If you opt for the tow dolly, be sure it is equipped with surge or electric brakes. If you decide to tow will all four wheels down, carefully consider the next paragraph. Various supplemental braking devices are currently available to aid in stopping the motorhome/dinghy towing combination. All allow independent control of the towed vehicle's brakes. At least ten to twelve suppliers now provide such add-on units, many of which can be installed by the do-it-yourselfer. Though no Federal Law exists as of yet, many states have individual laws requiring additional braking if the towed vehicle exceeds a certain weight. For instance in Michigan, the law states that an independent braking system is required if the gross weight of the dinghy exceeds 3,000 pounds. In Delaware, supplemental braking is required if the dinghy weighs 4,000 pounds. In Texas, it's 4,500 pounds. Canada's provincial law mandates supplemental braking if the dinghy has a laden gross weight in excess of 2,000 kilograms or 4,409 pounds, or if the towed vehicle weighs 40% or more than the motorhome's gross vehicle weight rating. It is often emphasized that while state or local laws may be obscure or variant, the law of physics is non-negotiable. If the vehicle you are towing weighs 3,000 pounds or more, seriously consider the addition of supplemental braking. Dear RV Doctor, I want to add an additional 12-volt battery to my coach battery. There is no room in the current battery compartment but there is room under the hood. How far away can this second battery be located and what gauge battery cable should I have to minimize the voltage drop? They will be wired in parallel. You may have covered this in an earlier article but I cannot find a list of the articles to get a copy. Thanks. Bill Cameron, (Stone Mountain, GA) Bill, in most instances, by using an 0 or 00 gauge welding cable, you will not experience any voltage drop between two parallel batteries to speak of. I always recommend welding cable since it has many more strands and is much more flexible for routing purposes, albeit, also more expensive. This is assuming the two batteries are the same type, the same size and the same age. Never parallel unequal batteries. Be sure to connect the negative terminals with the same size cable as the positive side of the circuit. Verify that the ground cable to the frame is the same size or bigger as well. A larger question, however, centers on the charging circuits; the one from the alternator and the one from the on-board converter/charger and/or inverter. Having solar charging capability further confounds the issue. It may be necessary to upgrade the conductors between these devices also. Once the two batteries are connected in parallel, they will both be discharged at virtually the same rate, so after the initial hookup, there will be very little transfer of energy between them during use. The system, in effect, simply will have twice the 12-volt storage capacity after parallel configuring. It is probably best, though, to have a qualified RV electrician take a look at your current setup and offer some hands-on advice.
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