The RV Doctor

How Are the RV Batteries Connected?

2012-01-30T03:30:00.000-08:00

The two house batteries in my motorhome have been removed to be replaced. They were 6-volt batteries but the person who removed them does not remember if they were wired in series or parallel. The motorhome is a 2005 Cross Country. How should the house batteries be wired? Will S., (Seminole, OK)

Will, since all DC electrical components in your motorhome are powered by 12-volt battery power, two 6-volt batteries must be connected in series in order to provide a final, 12-volt output. Here’s another post that may be of help to you. Check this out.

Also, FMC Magazine published one of my in-depth articles, "The Balance of Power," you might find helpful. Feel free to contact FMCA and request a copy of the January 2012 issue.

Stripped Threads on RV Water Heater Anode

2012-01-26T12:54:00.000-08:00

This pertains to a Suburban water heater, specifically the anode rod threading. I cannot get the new anode rod threading to "catch" and screw in straight. It's been getting more difficult every year but this year I'm stymied. Any help? David B., (St. George, UT)

David, as will happen every now and again with repeated procedures, the female threads on the water heater tank fitting have likely become damaged or corroded over time. In the shop we use a tool called a “thread chaser.” Tool makers manufacturer both male and female thread chasers. Similar to a tap or a die, (but different), thread chasers are designed specifically to clean and straighten existing threads only. To use a standard tap may actually remove portions of the existing threads as well as cut new threads; something to be avoided in a water heater tank fitting. You’ll need a 3/4-inch NPT thread chaser since the replacement anode will likely have a tapered pipe thread. As a last resort, using a 3/4-inch NPT standard tap will work if you’re very careful. But the pros will use a correctly sized thread chaser.

Also, be sure to flush out the heater tank after chasing the threads in case any fragments of corrosion, metal or debris fell into the tank during your repair process. A couple wraps of thread sealing tape or an appropriate fresh water pipe joint compound on the first two or three threads of the new anode should have you back in business in no time.

RV Dump Valve Positioning

2012-01-18T03:00:00.000-08:00

I saw your video about electric Drain Master Valves on the Drain Master web site. I noticed that in your demo, the valve was installed in a vertical position. I already have electric valves on my Beaver Patriot Thunder but the plumbing was done such that the valves are in the horizontal position. Do you think installing the Drain Master Valve in a horizontal position will be a problem? Dick Y., (Enid, OK)

Indeed, Drainmaster and I both recommend that any termination valve be positioned with the valve body facing upward, Dick; or as upward as possible. Here’s why. That portion of the valve body is simply a cavity between the two halves of the valve where the actual “gate” portion will slide into during evacuations. When the valve is in the closed position, it’s just an empty void. If you look at a common termination valve when it is open, (obviously after you’ve dumped the tank!), you’ll notice the two seals on either side of the gate never completely close against each other. They are there to keep the gate from leaking when the valve is closed. They only make contact with the gate. With that open seam between the two seal rings when the valve is opened during draining of the tank, liquids, tissue and waste can migrate into that void if the valve is positioned horizontally or downward. If the valve body is positioned upwards, gravity will prevent that void from filling during evacuations.

However, your coach, with its bottom-draining holding tank is a little different. As you are aware, on the Patriot Thunder, the valve is positioned flat and mounted directly to the bottom of the holding tank, so your only optional positioning of the valve is in a 360-degree circular fashion. The valve will always remain flat. One problem with the design of your plumbing bay is that the holding tank was not supported properly and it had a tendency to warp during the process of filling the holding tank. This warpage as the tank fills causes stress on the fitting, the valve and all the plumbing downstream. In some cases, the bottom of the tank (and the installed termination valve), may actually be skewered a bit and not totally flat.

If it’s not possible to rework (to some degree of difficulty), the existing waste plumbing fittings and piping to accommodate a new valve in the “body up” position, your best bet is to see if the fitting that is welded into the bottom of the tank leans to any particular direction. If you can see it with your naked eye, then try to install the new Drainmaster valve with the body turned toward the highest point. It won’t be much, but it just may be enough to keep moisture and contaminants from gaining access to that void in the body of the valve.

Since gravity is your friend when draining the holding tank, it will likely drain quickly through that bottom outlet and pass through the valve before it readily has a chance to gather moisture and waste remnants. Horizontal tank outlets are more prone to that problem. Another good thing in your favor; the Drainmaster electric gate valve is now constructed with new, precision-fit stainless steel gears and any intrusion of moisture in the gearbox will likely have no affect in the long run anyway. I think you’ll be fine just replacing the existing valve with the Drainmaster. It might also be a good idea to add additional support for that shelf the holding tank sits on. I think a couple short sections of 2X4 wedged between the bottom of the plumbing bay and the bottom of the holding tank shelf should help keep the tank from flexing and warping during the time it is being filled.

Re-using RV Anti-Freeze

2012-01-13T04:30:00.000-08:00

I winterized my RV last year with RV antifreeze. I did not use the camper this summer or fall and never anti-winterized it. Will the antifreeze last a second winter? John V., (Mt. Vernon, IL)

John, the short answer is yes; performed properly, a winterized RV with RV anti-freeze will still be viable for a second winter. In fact, in my training seminars, I recommend capturing the anti-freeze during the de-winterizing procedures after the first winter and re-using it again for a second season. You can always "test" the liquid to be sure, but I've heard from many RVers who re-use the RV anti-freeze. After the second winter, it’s probably best to replace the anti-freeze for the next winterizing procedures however. It depends on the severity of your winter season, but it’s entirely possible to use the same RV anti-freeze for at least two seasons.

Securing a Table to RV Paneling

2012-01-12T16:30:00.000-08:00

I read your articles and columns for years and was interested about your discussion of nutserts. Will nutserts work on the inner walls of an RV? Paper covered thin plywood with foam backing. We have a wall mounted folding table that keeps coming loose from the wall. I would like to secure it permanently. I'm wondering if the nutserts would work? Harold K. (no city, no state)

Harold, the nutserts I mentioned in the column are specifically designed for thin metals or fiberglass. There are other hollow-wall fasteners that are similar that will work better in wood paneling. As long as your table isn't too heavy and you're only trying to stabilize it rather than have the weight solely supported by the wall anchors. The best would be a molly-type fitting that installs simply by tightening the included screw. The type you need will have teeth that actually grip the paneling as the screw is tightened. Once the expansion takes place inside the wall, the screw is removed and reinstalled through the table brackets.

The above photo shows a variety of mollies. The two in the middle have a pointed end and are designed primarily for sheet rock. The other two are designed for paneling. They are available in sizes ranging from very small to 1/4-inch in diameter. I would suggest this type would be better suited for securing your folding table to the wall. Simply drill a hole slightly smaller in diameter than the molly and force it in. As you tighten the screw, it expands inside the wall. You’ll want one designed for the thickness of your existing paneling. They are readily available at any of the big box home improvement stores.

RV Tub Will Not Drain Properly

2012-01-06T14:11:00.000-08:00

I have a 1977 Layton travel trailer and it has a bathtub/shower combo, and the tub suddenly started filling up with water, not draining and I cannot locate the problem. I checked the outside water lines and there is water all over the ground and a small continuous drip. It has never happen before, I am puzzled and have very little knowledge of RV repairs, please give me an idea of how I might be able to fix this issue. Leslie R., (Yakima, WA)

Leslie, I almost hate to ask this, but...have you emptied the gray water holding tank lately? The tub will likely drain into a separate gray water tank, but in some cases may drain into the black (solid) waste tank. I'm not sure how it is with your Layton (I can barely remember what I did yesterday, let alone something Layton did back in 77!)

If the tank is empty then the problem could be a plugged P-trap or blockage anywhere between the tub and tank. A venting issue for that holding tank will also create drainage problems. If the vent stack has slipped deeper into the tank (below the level of the contents), the tub will likely back up or drain very slowly. But the fact you have water leaking tells me you probably have a full holding tank and/or a failed termination valve (dump valve), and it simply backed up into the tub.

If, by chance, the shower drains into the black holding tank, shared with the toilet, and you only evacuated the gray tank, check to make sure both holding tanks are completely empty and see if the problem persists. Also, with both holding tanks empty you can easily find out which tank the shower drains into by leaving the termination valve open on one tank, then run some water through the tub and see which tank it drains through. It is permissible, by the way, to have another fixture drain into the black tank and many floor plans mandate this unfortunate feature.

It's also recommended to upgrade your termination valves to electric gate valves. Check out the Drainmaster electric valves.

Motorhome Tire Squeal

2011-12-27T03:00:00.000-08:00

We have a 35-foot Sunova with a Blue Ox tow bar system. The "towed" is a 2006 Jeep Liberty Sport automatic transmission, 4x4, equipped with a Brake Buddy. The system is great, easy to use and the Jeep tows great when we are on the highway. In normal turns and maneuvering it is also great. However, on some bends in the road like traffic circles, highway on/off ramps, etc., we hear what sounds like a loud tire squeal (like tires when brakes are locked). The brake system is not engaging and the steering is not locking on the towed vehicle. It has occurred both when braking and when not braking the motorhome. There are no visible signs of rubbing or tire wear and no smell of burning rubber; just the loud noise. I've talked with Blue Ox support, done Internet searches and spoke with other people who tow vehicles and no one has ever heard of this. I went over the installation with Blue Ox and it is totally within their specifications. My rear camera does not show anything out of the ordinary when this occurs, and it is very intermittent so I can't say exactly what conditions might cause it. Any suggestions how to isolate this and/or ideas of what it could be? Bob D., (Toms River, NJ)

I have to say, Bob, you've stumped me also. I've not heard of this exact problem. Do you feel any type of subtle tug; as if the Jeep brakes suddenly, but for an instant? I can only offer a couple of suggestions. First, be sure the Jeep's front end is in alignment and all tires (on both vehicles) are pressurized according to the weight they are carrying. Be sure to include any cargo you stow in the Jeep while towing. And secondly, to maybe pinpoint it better, have someone ride in the Jeep while you're towing and turning. Be sure this is permitted based on local restrictions, however. But having someone in the Jeep, even if just in a big parking lot, will quickly determine if the noise is emanating from the Jeep or from the motorhome. This is indeed a puzzler! Let me know what you find out!

Follow-up: Hi Gary! Actually, you were correct; it turned out to be the front-end alignment. I spoke with a knowledgeable service manager for the local Itasca dealer. He immediately said alignment when I described the symptoms; sent me to the tire shop he dealt with and they found the right front toe was out. Not enough to show a problem when driving or during normal cornering, but enough to make the Jeep track wide in turns when towed. This was even news to the folks at Blue Ox. Right now I can still hear a little tire squeal if I have to do a tight S-turn; sort of like bending around to the left in a traffic circle, then having to counter-steer to move right to exit the circle. I just know now to take them a little slower. The folks at Blue Ox said for that I should try to attach two bungee cords to hold the steering wheel centered. On small smart cars, the wheels run all over the place while towing straight so the bungees are needed for that. But for the Jeep, it might help it return to center quicker so it can make the counter-turn in the opposite direction.

There you go Bob! Glad it all worked out.

Ice on RV Refrigerator Fins

2011-12-24T11:17:00.000-08:00

We are new full-timers and I’ve noticed our Norcold refrigerator fins inside the unit are icing up. What causes this or is this normal? Should I ask how to prevent this? Casey D., (St. Louis, MO)

Casey, the cause for severe icing on those fins could be a couple of things. Depending on the model Norcold, it may be a mis-positioned thermistor, which is the device used to determine the cold setting on the thermostat. Or it could simply be a faulty door gasket leaking air. The first thing to do is perform, what we call, the dollar bill test. Close the lower refrigerator door(s) onto a dollar bill at various points around the entire seal, (if you have a fancy coach, use a hundred dollar bill!). With the door closed onto the bill, tug on it. You should feel a slight drag or resistance on the bill as you pull it out. If it just falls out or you feel no tug, chances are the gasket is faulty and needs replacing. Be sure to do this at multiple positions around the entire seal of each door. If that test passes with flying colors, then send me the model number and I’ll look up the exact positioning of the thermistor on those fins. Also be sure you have plenty of room for air to move about inside the cabinet section. Avoid placing wide trays that may block some of the convection movement inside the box. This too, could cause some icing on those secondary evaporator fins.

Blowout Plug Redux

2011-12-21T10:54:00.000-08:00

In reference to your mention of using a blowout plug for winterizing I used to use compressed air for winterizing as well, but was told that this method doesn't get the water out of the check valves in the water pump and could subject the pump to rupture. I would be most interested in your comments on this. Bob K., (Murray, UT)

Bob, keep in mind, the entire fresh water piping system is factory-tested by the coach manufacturer and tested again by the dealer at pressures around 80 PSI. So anything less than that will not create a problem within the system. In fact, in previous years the test standard was 100 PSI. The backflow preventer located at or near the water pump outlet becomes nothing more than a closed valve when air pressure is introduced through the city water inlet so there’s no danger to the pump from that side. Now it is important that the water pump indeed has a check valve located at or near the pump outlet. ShurFlo makes one line of pumps that does not come equipped with an internal check valve. In those cases, the manufacturer will install a separate check valve fitting at the pump outlet. All said, I’ve never seen a water pump damaged by injecting air into the system through the city water entry. But you make a good point about the remaining water inside the pump on the other side of the check valve! One remedy, after emptying the fresh water tank, is to remove the outlet tubing on the pump and the briefly run the pump to eject as much moisture as possible. Running dry for those few seconds will not damage the modern RV water pump. What little moisture that may remain inside the pump head will not likely cause any damage should temps dip below freezing.

Sealing RV Clearance Lamps

2011-12-13T14:35:00.000-08:00

I bought a 27-foot Minnie Winnie back in 1992 and have maintained it quite well. I have been able to repair all of the run/clearance light issues and I'm now ready to re-caulk them to keep the water out. I have your book and have cruised your website and the Internet but have not found specific instructions. Should I caulk all around the fixture base and then add some caulk all around the lens before putting it back on the base fixture? I recently had to take a hammer to one of my lenses that I had caulked a few years ago to get it off and it wasn't easy to find an exact replacement lens. Also, want to thank you for your You Tube video on adjusting the RV water heater flame. It helped me understand how my water heater really worked. Before I saw your video, I had replaced the electrode assembly because I thought the main burner wasn't lighting, but it was. So I cleaned the air adjustment tube, put on a new electrode assembly and still no hot water. It was driving me crazy so I reviewed more of your info and finally figured out the problem - it was one of my water heater bypass valves in the wrong position! Thanks for all the help! Cathe R., (West Springfield, MA)

Cathe, as far as clearance markers and trim lamps, always seal behind the fixture itself; between the fixture base and the side or cap on the RV. Butyl caulk is commonly used for this, but I recommend Eternabond double-stick tape. It simply is not prone to drying out and cracking over time like some butyl caulks or putty tapes. Do NOT seal the lens itself to the fixture. Many clearance lamp lenses are simply snapped into place (others are secured with screws), and all must have some method of disassembly in the likely event a bulb will eventually burn out and require replacing. Your “hammer” reference withstanding! You may even want to upgrade and switch to LED lamps.

Great follow-through on the water heater issue! I’m happy to hear the information was helpful.

Uneven Tire Wear on Travel Trailer

2011-12-06T15:07:00.000-08:00

I noticed that my travel trailer tires seemed to be wearing unevenly side to side. I measured to ground, the side with the most tire wear and it is about 3/4-inch lower to the ground than the other side. This is after replacing all the tires and checking inflation. I then weighed both sides of the trailer and found that the side with the most tire wear was about 500 pounds more. This is the side where the refrigerator is directly over the tires. We presently have over 15,000 miles on the trailer. Is there anything we can do to make the trailer level. I know because of the design there is little that can be done to equalize the weight side to side. Jim, (North Augusta, SC)

Jim, first of all, congratulations! You are well on your way to better balance and longer tire life simply by becoming aware of weight and balance issues. One question I have is; how was the 500 pound difference determined? The only way to determine the left – right loading is by individual wheel scales (per NTHSA). Without individual load measurements we'd only be guessing and may not pinpoint the correct fix for your issue. Weighing RV’s on a flat (platform) scale has proven to be inaccurate at best (again by NTHSA). Using individual scale readings is the only way we can determine the exact cause of your issue, since every RV is different.

I do need to ask if the heavy side is exceeding a tire rating or the axle rating? This would necessitate a more aggressive action if so.

I would look for items I could move to help the balance. Every little thing adds up and remember, just 50 pounds going to the other side equals a 100 pound difference; -50 pounds on one side and +50 pounds on the other, we are now 100 pounds closer to being balanced.

The RV Safety & Education Foundation recommends inflating trailer tires to the sidewall inflation pressure unless we have individual wheel position weights to work with. A one-inch difference in ride height on a trailer is not very much, considering the big picture, but simply adding a band-aid to make the unit level will not cure the load issue. The heavy side will still be the heavy side though it will simply appear to sit level.

Another cause for the difference could be what's called "spring sag." When vehicles remain loaded over a period of time, the springs will take a ‘set’ and the heavier side would be more dramatic than the lighter side. With a trailer that has had a 500 pound higher load on one side for several years and many miles, you can understand the consequences, right? This is, however, not a difficult or expensive issue to address; simply install new springs. Just be sure the shop is reputable and installs the proper rated springs.

Balancing the load and having the correct inflation pressures will have the most positive effect on tire wear, however, all the issues you bring up will contribute to uneven tire wear.

Repair Help for Electronic RV Components

2011-11-18T13:54:00.000-08:00

Any sources for repair service for a Statpower TrueCharge 40+ battery charger? I really like the unit and would rather have it repaired rather than replace it. The manufacturer declines to repair it. Howard S., (Melbourne, FL)

Howard, the sad truth today is that rarely is it feasible to have any electronic component repaired. Many electronic parts and sub-components are assembled overseas and simply not worth the time and effort. By the time one pays for shipping the unit to a repair center, parts and labor, etc., you’re about near the cost of a new replacement unit. We’ve indeed become a throw-away society, even within the RV realm. Component-level diagnostics are quickly fading. No longer is it possible or feasible to rebuild a generator carburetor or to replace individual electronic board components, for example.

Now that said, thankfully there is a resource; a facility that does perform such repairs, even on the obsolete components. Contact Mark and M&M Electronics. They are located in Ohio. Here’s their website:

M&M Electronics

He’ll probably tell you the same thing; to upgrade to the new Xantrex TrueCharge2 battery charger, but at least it’s worth a phone call to find out. It might be worth it to have him, at least diagnose the problem with your 40+.

Better RV Battery Charging

2011-11-09T14:51:00.000-08:00

I am reviewing the handout I received from you at the battery maintenance seminar at the Seattle RV Show and have some questions. I have an Itasca motorhome with two 12-volt batteries wired parallel. I have been dry camping with this rig and have nearly run down the coach batteries after a few days. When that happens I have to start my RV generator (which runs on propane) to charge the coach batteries up some. I thought I remember you saying that this is not very effective. Is running the RV engine more effective or taking it out and driving it a little? I am also thinking of buying a portable 2000 watt generator that I can just connect to the coach batteries and charge them in place. My plan is to buy the little generator and connect to the coach batteries in place without unhooking the battery cables. I have been told I can charge the two coach batteries together by hooking the positive clip to the positive terminal of one battery and the negative clip to the negative post of the other battery. Will buying the 2000 watt generator, which has a built in 8-amp charger, do the job? Jim G., (Seattle, WA)

Jim, I'm glad the seminar prompted some further contemplation on your part! And you remembered correctly; most modern RV generators do not have a dedicated battery charging circuit. They simply produce the 120-volt AC output that further powers a converter/charger or, in some cases, an inverter/charger for on-board battery charging.

As for connecting the load and a charger, both the load and the charger should be connected to the positive terminal of one battery and the negative terminal of the other battery in a two-battery, 12-volt parallel set-up.

But in my opinion, 8-amps would not be sufficient for effectively charging your battery bank. The general rule of thumb is C/5. “C” being the total amp-hour capacity of your battery bank, divided by 5, which equals the output amperage necessary to fully charge the bank in the least amount of time, without the fear of over-charging. This presupposes the battery charger is a sophisticated, 3-step charger. If your batteries are Group 27, you can store about 210 amp-hours, or so, of current since the two are connected in parallel. 210 divided by 5 means you’ll need a battery charger that can perform a bulk charge of about 40-amps. Anything less, simply will take much longer to charge and risk overheating the batteries.

Now the engine alternator will likely put out a lot more current, but it’s not very effective or efficient to actually run the motorhome engine just for battery charging purposes. Your best bet is a dedicated battery charger. You already have an on-board generator, so a portable generator just for charging the batteries is not what I would recommend.

I have recommended the TrueCharge 2 battery charger since it came onto the market. You can read my review here. See what you think. I think it would be a much better option.

Repair or Replace RV Electric Steps?

2011-11-08T12:57:00.000-08:00

We are in the process of updating our Holiday Rambler and my outside automatic steps need new bushings. They are SCS/Frigette steps. I've been told that a dealer will want to replace the steps. If so what brand do you recommend? Do you think I need to replace them? Jean K., (Madison, WI)

Jean, it would be difficult for me to condemn your automatic steps without taking some electrical measurements and performing some diagnostics, but there have been numerous, publicly documented issues with the SCS/Frigette electric steps. From poor design to broken bolts to failed modules. Parts are still available, so it’s doubtful it will be absolutely necessary to replace the entire unit. But from the research I’ve done, and the fact that you are “updating” your HR, I’d see what the repair center had to say (it might be a quick fix), then make a decision whether to repair or replace. Personally, I’ve been a fan of Kwikee products for a number of years. If the decision is to fully replace the entire assembly, I’d opt for Kwikee.

Objective RV Research Before the Sale

2011-11-01T12:04:00.000-07:00

We enjoyed attending your seminars at the Hershey RV Show. We do not own a RV yet, but are doing our research to learn about what we want; size, layout, etc. We will be buying a used diesel Class A motorhome, 40-foot or above. We wanted to ask you if there is a website that compares and rates every single make/model of motorhome based on such criteria as comfort, dependability, ride, value, maintenance issues, etc. This info would be so helpful to us in making our decision as to what motorhome to purchase in the future. Brian M., (PA)

Brian, in all honesty, unbiased opinions (read: unpaid for), or non-funded evaluations or ratings are probably going to be difficult to find for any type of RV, across the board. Here's what I usually suggest: Narrow your choices, then contact each manufacturer and ask them to convince you why you should purchase their coach. If they seem disinterested in trying to convince you....well, that speaks volumes about their customer service! Seek out an owner’s group for that brand and contact some owners to see what they like and don’t like about their unit. Also search recall lists (available online), to see if that brand or model has any active recall notices, and finally visit a dealer who sells that unit and try to ask one of the service technicians (in addition to a salesperson), what they’ve learned about that model in their shop. The people who work on that brand a lot will be most familiar about the pros and cons of that model.

If you ask the manufacturer or dealer for recommendations, you’ll likely get a list of their most-happy customers; again not a true reflection of what you might learn doing your own due diligence. Searching the Internet using different key words about that brand and model will yield some interesting posts of consumer forums as well. Take it all in as you narrow your choices. There are many different parameters to investigate. Make it a fun adventure!

Avoid buying by price alone. Take into consideration service after the sale. Does the selling dealer have a fully equipped service facility? If you buy from an Internet seller only, they may not even have a service department. You'll definitely want dealer support after the sale! Even when purchasing a used unit. If you buy from a private party, however, I always recommend both seller and buyer invest equally in an aftermarket PDI (pre delivery inspection), performed by a certified RV technician.

I Have a Bent Awning Tube!

2011-10-21T03:00:00.000-07:00

Is it possible to straighten an awning tube? if so, how? Steve D., (Neola, IA)

Love those "to the point" questions Steve! To my knowledge, there is no method in the aftermarket of straightening a bent, extruded aluminum awning roller tube. Some can be manipulated somewhat, but will always show evidence of the damage. In order for the canopy fabric to remain straight and roll up square and evenly, unfortunately, the tube will need to be replaced. I’m sure re-extruding the tube could make it like new, but a new replacement tube would certainly be less expensive than trying to find a way to make that happen! Wish I had better news for you, but I'd recommend a new roller tube.

Flooded RV May Have Electrical Issues and More

2011-10-20T15:30:00.000-07:00

I'm looking to buy a travel trailer off a salvage site. The unit was in a freshwater flood with water sitting in there for about 15 days before it was cleaned up. Water was up over the fuse panel. The batteries were not hooked up and it wasn't plugged in at the time of flooding. If the fuse panel was dried out, it would be okay to connect, correct? Patrick L., (Titusville, PA)

Flood waters and AC or DC electrical devices don’t mix well Patrick. Even after everything dries out, corrosion has begun and all components in the system, especially the AC electrical system, should be thoroughly tested. All contactors, switches, receptacles, relays, converter/charger, ground connections and bonding conductors, etc., should all be checked out by a professional, certified RV service technician before plugging the unit into 120-volt AC service. Many unseen possibilities should be completely investigated beforehand.

Also, water damage can be quite invasive to an RV in general. Insulation, paneling and other wood products need to be tested for mold, mildew and structural damage. A complete inspection and PDI (pre delivery inspection) should be performed prior to using the RV in any capacity. Certainly do not plug it in!

Pre-Sale RV Inspections Are Crucial!

2011-10-12T03:14:00.000-07:00

I'm moving back to USA soon and I'm looking to purchase a used travel trailer, but don't wish to get taken for a ride. We live on social security income so we must watch every dollar. Prior to the VA approving a home loan on a house, it must meet certain standards before a loan is approved. Is there specialists I could hire to do an assessment on an RV prior to purchase? We need a unit that is in top condition and isn't a safety risk. Jake C., (Chiang Rai, Thailand)

Indeed Jake, any certified RV service technician could perform a set of procedures called a pre-delivery inspection (PDI), prior to consummating the sale. Look for a professional shop or dealership in your area once you settle back here and before you commit. A PDI checklist is used by the pros for inspecting and testing all the systems and components on any RV prior to the sale. Even if you must pay for this service yourself, at least you’ll know the true condition of that RV. But I contend the cost should be shared by both the seller and the buyer if the deal is between two individuals. If you buy from an established dealer, typically they will perform this service as part of the deal anyway. Or at least they should. Always retain copies of the PDI form.

All RVs should meet the standards of the NFPA 1192 and the National Electrical Code (NEC). Be sure your inspecting technician or shop is familiar with these documents. PDI check-off lists can be quite comprehensive (as they should be!). You'll find some online if you do a search. Any discrepancies found during the PDI can then become bargaining chips for price negotiation or could outright negate the sale in some cases. Use it to your advantage!

RV Generator Fuel Back-Flow

2011-10-09T03:00:00.000-07:00

My generator set runs well, but if it sits for over a week, then the gas in the line drains away from the generator. What can I do to fix it? I can suck it back up from the tank, (not-so-fun old days), and all is well until I don't use it for awhile. What holds the vacuum on the fuel line? Bob M., (Redwood City, CA)

Bob, many RV generators are equipped with an electric fuel solenoid valve that automatically closes when the generator shuts down to prevent that very situation. It’s possible yours is faulty. You can also install an aftermarket check valve at the fuel inlet to the generator to help prevent draining of the fuel line back to the tank. But if your coach is still under warranty, make an appointment at your dealer. It is a warrantable situation. If out of warranty, any certified RV service tech should be able to quickly determine if the fuel solenoid valve is misbehaving. It’s a fairly quick test and quick fix.

What? No P-Trap in the RV?

2011-10-05T15:13:00.000-07:00

Hey Doc, I was recently at an RV show and I noticed that under the lavatory sink, there was not a regular P-trap, just a straight fitting or adapter. Any idea what this was? I thought all sinks had to have a water lock to keep the holding tank fumes from getting inside the motorhome. Craig J. (Bellingham, WA)

Welcome Craig, to a new type of waterless P-trap. Actually, it’s best described as a waterless sanitary waste valve. I've mentioned this device in previous posts and they're being found on more RVs directly from the factory. It's called the HepvO valve, and it eliminates the need for a bulky P-trap hanging down below RV sinks or below a shower/tub enclosure.

During manufacture, this maximizes the ceiling height in the shower area so there's no need to have that bubble skylight in the roof any more since the pan can be installed directly on the floor with the drain plumbing below. In the aftermarket, the HepvO valve will provide owners more under-counter storage space. Additionally, it does not require RV anti-freeze during winter prepping, or any maintenance for that matter.

The HepvO’s unique design incorporates a flexible, self-sealing, internal silicone membrane that opens when water is flowing and completely closes off when the flow stops to prevent holding tank odors from escaping up and through the fixtures. Because it is in itself, an effective air-admittance device, this new valve even eliminates the need for additional anti-siphon trap vent devices (ASTVD) at fixture trap arms; another cost-saving manufacturing advantage that should eventually filter its way to the RV buyer.

It can be installed either horizontally or vertically, thereby maximizing installation options. This new design also has proven to be hygienically safer since waterborne food particles and debris cannot become trapped inside or given a chance to develop microbiological and bacterial growth.

The HepvO cannot be rendered ineffective by freezing temperatures, siphoning, evaporation, water compression, foaming, capillary action or by any disproportionate physical movement of the motorhome; all possible outcomes common to a standard water lock P-trap. All in all, a neat new, space-saving method of preventing holding tank odors from entering the RV, even during periods of non-use, winterization and storage. Already factory-installed by many coach manufacturers, the HepvO waterless valve will be gaining new aficionados from the aftermarket in the coming months. By virtue of its inimitable design and proven track record in the United Kingdom, it’s unlikely you’ll ever have grey plumbing odor issues again.

For more information, visit hepvo.com. And to see my short introductory video check this out.

Locating 12-Volt DC Shorts in an RV

2011-09-29T14:35:00.000-07:00

Can my 1986 Yellowstone travel trailer have a positive grounded electrical system? When I wire it as a negative ground, I keep blowing 40-amp fuses. Also, would I be better off to use a standard battery charger than the converter? Hank H., (Yuma, AZ)

Hank, I've never heard of any recreation vehicle using a positively grounded DC system. Those even disappeared from the auto industry many years ago. It's apparent, however, that you have a direct short to ground somewhere within the 12-volt DC battery system. Equipped with a digital volt/ohm meter (VOM), it is relatively easy to "ring out" the circuits to find which contains the direct short. Here's how....

The first thing to do is to ensure all 12-volt loads are turned off. Then remove all the fuses from the DC fuse block. Next install a new 40-amp main fuse. If the fuse still blows, the short is between the battery and the fuse box and not likely within an individual DC load circuit. With all the fuses still removed, set the VOM to the ohm's scale and measure for continuity (zero ohms), between the load side of each fuse position of each circuit, to ground. If you measure some resistance, but not continuity, you're probably reading the resistance through that load so make sure it is turned off. You'll be looking for a direct short to ground.

Some digital meters will have a diode test function which is also good to use. In the diode test setting, the meter will emit a audible beep when there is direct continuity. The circuit that indicates continuity is the problem circuit to focus on.

Next, begin eliminating each device on that circuit one at a time. Obtain an automatic resetting 12-volt circuit breaker and attach two short leads with alligator clips to the two terminals. Use the breaker instead of continuing to blow fuses. Attach the circuit breaker to each side of the fuse holder. This test breaker replaces the individual fuse and will automatically reset after it cools down. This eliminates burning through a pile of fuses during the troubleshooting procedure.

If, for instance, the short is in the lamp circuit on the left side of the RV, turn on each lamp, one at a time until the circuit breaker trips. When the breaker trips, that's the device on that circuit that contains the short. By process of elimination, it will be possible to determine the problem circuit and the problem device on that circuit in most cases.

Once the short is located, in most cases, it's probably easier to run a new wire from point A to point B rather than trying to actually located the exact section of damaged wire. Just cut the wire and tape each end, then run a new conductor.

Standard, automotive battery chargers are not recommended as a 12-volt power supply or as a replacement for a 12-volt converter/charger. I do favor a dedicated smart charger, however. Read my review of the new Xantrex TrueCharge 2 battery charger. The key to correct battery charging is to make sure charger uses algorhythms designed for the type of batteries it will be charging. Shop battery charges simply won't be equipped with that sophistication. And most typical converter/chargers won't as well. The serious RVer should consider upgrading their charging system designed around the premise of "what is best for my battery bank."

Why Do RV Generators Surge?

2011-09-28T16:18:00.000-07:00

I recently purchased a toy hauler with a generator with only 27 hours on the meter. At first the governor appeared to be sticking, due to what I believe, bad fuel (varnished). I sprayed the carburetor with a cleaner and it ran fine for a while. The idle still surges with no load applied, and if I put a heavy load on it, it seems to get better. The butterfly plate at the front of the carburetor, when pushed down manually, makes it run smooth. Any ideas? Mike C. (Newbury Park, CA)

Mike, with only 27 hours on the generator I'm surprised you have operational issues so soon. I'm beginning to wonder if the generator ever received a proper set-up at the dealer. For a proper set-up, especially on the older machines, three components must be adjusted in harmony with one another; the carburetor, the governor and the choke (when so equipped).

Though the specific steps are too detailed to list here, you can, at least, check the position of the choke plate; it should be about 1/4 open when the generator is cold.

Prolonged surging is indicative of a governor and/or carburetor out of adjustment. Unfortunately, the carburetor and governor should only be adjusted while monitoring the voltage and frequency and while applying a measured load at the same time. In other words, RV generators cannot be tuned by ear. As I often state in my seminars, every mechanical adjustment on an RV generator carburetor and governor will have a direct electrical result, so I don't condone any tweaking and twisting by RV owners. I'd recommend a generator set-up by a certified technician using a properly sized load bank (see photo). Some individual RV repair facilities may have such a diagnostic load bank, but you're best bet is to take it to a certified shop for your brand of generator when possible.

Also, in severe cases of varnished fuel, it may be necessary to replace the complete carburetor anyway. In the old days, we used to rebuild generator carburetors, but with the newer models, replacement is the better option. (In some cases, the only option.)

Applying the proper set-up steps using a load bank will either eliminate the surging issue or lead you to the right repair track. By the way, if your shop has a load bank, but no knowledge about how to use it, I do have an older training video that is still viable and it just may help. Have your shop contact me.

Replace Anode with Drain Valve?

2011-09-07T03:30:00.000-07:00

I was told that it is best to drain your hot water tank after each excursion, therefore I replaced the anode with a petcock. I now drain the water out but am curious as to the soundness of this plumbing exchange. Any advice would be appreciated. Gary G., (Monessen, PA)

As far as draining after each trip, Gary, a lot depends on how often your excursions actually take place. Personally, I would only drain the water heater in preparation for winter storage, a lengthy period of non-use, when servicing the water heater or when chlorinating the fresh water system. Or perhaps when you encounter some foul water during a trip. But, remember the anode in the water heater is a necessity when the heater is in use, but only for Suburban and the older, American Appliance brands of water heaters. Water passing through the tank creates an electrolysis that will literally attack the tank from the inside. The anode is the sacrificial component that prevents the tank itself from becoming damaged. If you still want to drain the tank, simply remove the anode/drain plug.

On the older American Appliance heaters, the anode had a separate connection on the rear of the heater, plus they were originally equipped with a drain cock anyway. I realize it is probably easier to drain with the valve, but it's more important to have that anode in the tank. In the long term, it will be worth the extra time it may take to drain the heater between trips.

As a side note, I’ve seen some mis-information posted on online blogs recently and wish to clarify when to replace the anode. Suburban recommends replacing the anode annually or when the rod has about 25% of its original size left. Heavy travelers may need to replace the anode more than once per year, but typically, once per camping season usually suffices. If you are a full-timer or travel often, check the anode at six-month intervals and replace it when it’s 75% deteriorated.

RV Oven Operation

2011-09-05T03:30:00.000-07:00

The Suburban oven in our older RV is acting up. The pilot lights normally and when turning the control to a cooking temperature the flame goes large and the signal to light the burner seems to be received and the main burner comes on. So far so good, it appears to be working. The problem is the oven only heats to a certain point (not even 300-degrees according to a thermometer) and the main burner goes out, acting as if it reached the temperature the control was set at. It seemed to me a problem with the safety valve/control unit or the sensor, so I started looking around for a replacement part. A few dealers tell me there is no replacement part made and I have to buy a whole new range/oven control unit. Visiting Suburban's website does not shed much light except that if there was an "A" after the model number it would be a mercury free unit. I wonder if it could be retrofitted? Gord S., Edmonton, AB

At first read, Gord, the safety valve appears to be functioning normally, assuming the delivery line pressure is set correctly. Any pro RV service facility can quickly and easily set the propane pressure for you. With correct pressure, here's what happens when you set the thermostat to any cooking temperature: When the thermostat is set to a temperature (assuming the oven pilot flame is lit), the pilot becomes slightly larger and begins to heat the thermal bulb (or a thermocouple in a non-mercury valve) attached to the safety valve. Yours appears to be doing this now. This thermal bulb, when heated by the pilot flame, expands a bellows in the safety valve and allows the propane to flow through the valve and on to the main burner where it is ignited by the extended pilot flame. This results in a time delay from when the oven thermostat is first set to a desired temperature until the main burner actually ignites. Now all that said, it is a possibility you have a faulty thermostat (main oven control valve). But first be sure the temperature sensor inside the oven is clean and free from cooking oils, oven cleaner and grease, etc., before condemning the thermostat control.

Your problem may simply be a fouled temperature sensing probe in the oven. A coated probe can send incorrect info to the oven thermostat control. If faulty, however, the thermostat and temperature sensor must indeed be replaced as a single unit since an integral capillary tube connects them. Your first task should be to clean the temperature sensor in the upper reaches of the oven. But it's also possible the oven safety valve may be the culprit. The flame sense probe (thermal probe) at the oven pilot is an integral component of the safety valve and must be replaced as a single unit like the thermostat and its temperature sense probe. I'm sure this sounds a little confusing, but a certified RV service tech should be able to quickly diagnose the problem with a few measurements and a couple of operational tests. So, clean the temperature sense probe and have the LP pressure verified keeping in mind further diagnosis may still be required. I don't believe it’s plausible, or even possible to replace a mercury safety valve with a non-mercury valve without drastically modifying the range. And it certainly is out of the realm of the do-it-yourselfer.

RV Toilet "Scored" And Not In A Winning Way!

2011-09-01T03:00:00.000-07:00

You have helped me several times in the past and now I have a minor problem. The toilet brush we have been using has really "scored" and scratched our RV toilet badly. I have managed to get rid of the gouges with rubbing compound and then car wax. My question is: What can we use to clean the toilet without leaving the scratches? (We think the brush we were using is designed for ceramic toilets). Many thanks! John E., (via RV Doc Newsletter)

John, I’m not a big fan of plastic RV toilets for the very reason you mention. They are simply not compatible with most abrasive cleansers and bathroom brushes. I think you’ve done the best thing you can to rectify the issue though. If the car wax contained carnuba, that will help. Future cleansings should be performed with a strictly, non-abrasive cleaner and use a very soft brush. Personally I don’t have a favorite, so any non-abrasive cleaner is a potential. It may take some experimenting to find the one best suited for you.

And thanks for signing up for the free monthly RV Doctor Newsletter John! Lots of good info found in there each month. Information not available elsewhere!

Don't be the last on your block to subscribe! (See the 2nd box down on the right-hand side of the RV Doctor Website to sign up)

Stained RV Window Sealing Gaskets

2011-08-30T16:04:00.000-07:00

Is there anyway to clean the white rubber-like gaskets around the windows of my RV. They are stained from mildew or something. Thanks for any information you can give me. Mary Ann, (Houston, TX)

Mary Ann, depending on the actual material those window gasket seals are made from, I have a couple suggestions to try. First, Simple Green might work and it’s the most universally available product to try. If that doesn’t do the trick, I’ve had good success with Protect All Products. If the gaskets are truly rubber, I’d try their Rubber Roof Cleaner or their Black Streak Remover. Depending on the age of the gasket material and how long it’s been stained, it may take some elbow grease!

If the staining is mold or mildew, after cleaning, you can saturate a rag with bleach to carefully wipe down the gaskets to kill the mold.

Wiring Diagram Needed for Older RV

2011-08-25T15:58:00.000-07:00

I have purchased a 1987 Monaco LE motorhome and have had it shipped to Australia. I am seeking a wiring diagram for the coach. It is a gas pusher with a 454 engine. Could you help or advise who could? Gary C. (Greenlands, WA, Australia)

Gary, RV owners seeking older wiring diagrams are plentiful but unfortunately I no longer keep wiring diagrams on file. I did for many years, but it simply became too cumbersome to store all that paper. I do have a couple of suggestions though; first you could try contacting one of the Monaco dealerships who were selling back in 1987 to see if they have any diagrams on file. If they are still around, that is. Many astute RV service departments will keep a set on file for future reference. You can find a Monaco dealer listing here. (The accuracy of this listing, however, has not been verified). The new Monaco RV only has a limited number of recent wiring diagrams posted online, so RVers with older coaches indeed have a search on their hands.

Secondly, there are a few dedicated Monaco owner's forums online as well. In some cases, the accuracy of the technical information posted on consumer forums can be iffy, but the most active group appears to be on the iRV2 forum. It might be worth a try to join that forum and see if anyone else has the diagrams you are seeking.

Finally, there are many active RV clubs here in the US that are brand specific. Check the Family Motor Coaching Association website and magazine for listings. RV clubs are a great source of technical information since they are typically a dedicated bunch. In fact, I’m wagering that if a dealer can’t help you, a fellow coach owner will!

Nitrogen vs. Compressed Air

2011-08-25T13:53:00.000-07:00

I recently bought new tires for my RV and they came filled with nitrogen. My question is, if I need air while on a trip, can I get the air replaced with nitrogen or do I just use air from then on? What are the pros and cons? Roland P. (Phoenix, AZ)

Roland, as with many things relating to tires and weight safety, I often ask my friend Walter Cannon to chime in from time to time, just to make sure we're on the same page. Especially in those gray areas like the topic of nitrogen in RV tires. Walter is the Executive Director of the RV Safety & Education Foundation (www.rvsafety.com), a non-profit agency dedicated to helping all facets of the RV Industry. Here's what Walter had to say:

Roland's question is quite typical during discussions of the use of nitrogen in RV tires. Let's start with the importance of maintaining proper air pressure. It is far more important to keep the proper air pressure in the tires than whether you use nitrogen or air. The air we breath is nearly 80% nitrogen, so adding air to a tire that requires more pressure will not dilute the nitrogen that much.

Nitrogen pros:
The process of extracting nitrogen from the air makes it very dry. This is a positive attribute as moisture holds heat and the nitrogen filled tire will cool faster.

Nitrogen molecules are larger (3X) than oxygen so the natural migration of air through the tire will be much slower.

Cons;
Cost and Availability.

The bottom line is that nitrogen is a good product but refrain from buying into the "better mileage" or "longer life" of the tire. Just be sure to always maintain the proper pressure and check it often.

RV Carpet Replacement

2011-08-17T03:30:00.000-07:00

We are considering replacing the carpeting in our motorhome with new carpeting or vinyl flooring. Should we see an RV service dealer or a carpet store? Thanks! Carole B. (Kalamazoo, MI)

Carole, a lot depends on if you have slideouts in the motorhome. With today’s proliferation, I’m going to assume you do. With that in mind, it would be best to contact an RV outfitting (decorating) company. There are quite a few located throughout the country. They differ from a regular dealership or stand-alone service center in that they specialize in updating, upgrading and redecorating primarily the interiors of coaches. Start with a Google search for “RV Outfitter” or “RV Decorator” in your area. That said, I've seen some amazing work come out of a shop in eastern WA, Truline RV. Take a look at some of their photos!

The slideouts pose the biggest problem for any service shop or RV decorator. Some rooms simply slide above the main coach flooring while others are flush with the finished flooring when extended. The shop must have experience with partial removal (at the very least) of the slideout room in order to get the finished flooring properly attached under the leading edge of the slide room in either case. To do so requires an expertise not usually found in a “typical” service shop. That said, it’s entirely possible your local motorhome dealer has that capacity. Most assuredly, a retail carpet store will not.

So you should first learn exactly how your coach manufacturer installed the existing flooring and see if that would present a problem for any shop to remove and install a new flooring surface. Carpet or vinyl, either way, it will probably have to be tucked under the slide room and secured properly.

I’ve gotten quite a few emails from readers who have experienced the problem of the slideout catching on the edge of the new flooring and damaging it. Most shops familiar with slideout removal and adjustments will probably have the tooling necessary to fully or partially remove the room, or at least tip it back somewhat creating room for the installer to get in there to attach the raw edge of the new flooring correctly. But it is certainly doable. I encourage you to take some photos of the process, if possible; it would make a good article!

RV Awning Fabric Replacement

2011-08-14T03:30:00.000-07:00

I need to replace the awning fabric on my 18-foot awning. All of the aftermarket replacements I find are two pieces, a main awning and a valance. I am having trouble visualizing how the two are joined together in the single slot on the roller tube. Please advise how this is done. Ron T. (Waterford, MI)

Ron, many awning roller tubes (depending on brand and vintage), have two or three individual slots; one for the canopy, another one for the valance and possibly a third slot in order to incorporate a screen room panel. If your roller tube only has a single slot, it will not be possible to include the valance, I'm afraid. That said, I have seen replacement canopies with a "built-in" valance. A single piece of the plastic gimp was sewn into a seam between the main canopy and the valance. This allows the single gimp to utilize a single slot roller tube. You may have to order a replacement directly from the manufacturer or one of their dealers rather than utilizing an aftermarket replacement.

RV Toilet Leaks

2011-08-10T03:30:00.000-07:00

I have an older Tioga motorhome. The hoses connecting to the toilet are leaking. I cannot reach the connections because of the tight space, but I can see the leak with a mirror. My question is, can I access the connections another way without removing the toilet completely? It looks like the toilet might be able to be separated top and bottom. There is a seam there. If I do need to remove the toilet do you have any advice? Todd H. (San Diego, CA)

Todd, there are a few reasons why water may be leaking at or near an RV toilet. By checking where the water is coming from and exactly when the water appears, you can pinpoint which cause is the culprit. If water drips to the floor from the upper portion of the toilet only during the flushing cycle, the problem is most likely the vacuum breaker. Typically a float seal in the vacuum breaker assembly is not sealing properly. On some units, the float can be disassembled and cleaned. Other models will require a repair kit. Still others may require a completely new vacuum breaker.

Sometimes water will appear to be leaking only if the bowl is filled to capacity. There is a slight possibility the bowl is cracked at a point above the normal water level. This is not a very common situation, but it does happen occasionally and is usually caused by improper winterizing techniques. This is only possible with toilets made with plastic bowls.

Water may also be noticed around the base of the toilet with no apparent or visible dripping from above. Chances are the seal between the flange and the base assembly is faulty which requires toilet removal and reinstallation. If water leaks onto the floor after the flush cycle has completed, or without flushing the toilet at all, the culprit is the water inlet valve or the connection to the valve.

This is what you and I both suspect with your toilet. Let’s assume it’s simply the connection at the water inlet valve that is leaking. Though the space may be tight, it’s often possible to tighten the fitting at the inlet to stop the leak. I’ve used a basin wrench in the past to reach behind the toilet and tighten the fitting without having to remove the toilet at all.

Though you didn’t mention the brand, I believe Fleetwood used the Thetford Aqua Magic toilet in their Class Cs of old. If it’s absolutely necessary to remove the toilet from the floor flange in order to gain proper access to the inlet fitting, you’ll have to remove the nuts on the two closet bolts, which can be difficult a difficult task without the proper tools.

On the Aqua Magic the bolts are located at the 5 o’clock and 11 o’clock positions when standing in front of the toilet. There should be an access hole under the seat to reach the back bolt at the 11 o’clock position. A long socket extension with a universal joint will be needed to remove that one; or a ratchet wrench can be used by reaching around the rear of the toilet. It’s a blind feel, but doable.

The front bolt is accessed by turning off the water supply and depressing the pedal. It will be apparent. But I’m guessing if you can gain access to the closet bolts, you can gain access the inlet fitting and the connection that apparently is leaking. I’d try the basin wrench first and only remove the toilet if necessary. Don’t forget, you’ll need a new closet flange seal if you opt to remove the toilet. Though the toilet is constructed in two sections, they do not come apart at that seam you see between the top and bottom halves.

RV Sealants Prevent Water Leaks!

2011-08-08T15:54:00.000-07:00

I sure wish I'd had the ability to attend more of your workshops. Do most RV manufacturers use butyl tape under the items they attach to the exterior of the RV? Is using multiple 1-inch strips under all of the area of the accessory necessary or can I just go around the edges of say a 4" X 4" item? Robert W. (somewhere in PA)

Robert, yes, it is the norm for manufacturers to apply a layer of butyl tape (otherwise known as putty tape), or some form of sealant/weather-proofing, between components and the exterior surfaces of the RV during installation. In fact, to prevent leaks, it’s a mandate. However, it's only necessary to apply the sealant, (personally, I use Eternabond DoubleStick tape), under all the screw locations or around the flanges. You don't need to place additional strips unless it creates a mounting or balance problem for that device. I've never seen that happen by the way. But just a layer under the flange perimeter of whatever the widget is; where the screws go through, should do the trick. Just be sure there are no voids or gaps between the accessory and the roof or sidewall. Notice how the window in the photo here needs new sealant!

No RV Battery Charging While Driving

2011-08-04T14:37:00.000-07:00

I enjoyed your recent FMCA seminar about 12-volt battery systems. I have a converter that doesn't properly give a full charge while driving! I have a Dodge Sprinter chassis with the Mercedes turbo. The converter is the 7300 series by Parallax Power Supply. The two 12-volt house batteries are new and I've only used the rig for less than four months. Is there a better converter that I should buy? Glenn C. (Eugene, OR)

Glenn, just to clarify, your Parallax converter/charger will not charge while actually driving down the road. It is powered by 120-volt AC electricity and should charge while plugged into shoreline power or when running the generator. The house batteries and the engine battery should receive a charge via the alternator on the engine while actually driving. It is plausible to run the generator while driving, but if the alternator is sized properly, both battery systems can be effectively charged while driving. Once you stop for the night, plug the coach into 120-volt AC park power and then the Parallax can top off the house batteries. (The Parallax will not charge the chassis battery).

If you're not getting a proper charging current to the batteries while driving, it will be necessary to evaluate the engine alternator and the battery isolator and all points between the alternator and battery bank. A proper setup will have the alternator output feeding into a dedicated dual battery separator or isolator. The output amperage of the alternator is then split between the two battery systems, the house batteries and the chassis battery.

One quick test you can make is to measure the voltage at the battery bank with the motorhome engine off. Note that voltage measurement, then start the engine. There should be a 2-3 volt rise in the voltage at the battery bank if the alternator is charging. If the voltage remains the same or goes down at all, it may be a faulty alternator, a faulty battery separator or faulty connections between point A and B.... meaning, further troubleshooting is in order.

A Certified RV technician should be able to quickly diagnose which component(s) may be at fault and make the subsequent repair(s). In my RV Owner's Handbook, I give you the step-by-step procedures for testing the isolator and the wiring. But a quick voltage measurement with the engine off and then running will give you some indication of where the problem is originating. This, of course, is assuming the batteries themselves are in good condition.

Drippy RV Faucets

2011-08-01T17:10:00.000-07:00

How do you repair the bathroom faucets? I have a two-handle faucet in the bathroom that looks to be all metal and they constantly drip. How and what do I replace? Mike R. (Richmond, BC)

Mike, the most common cause of dripping faucets is debris or mineral deposits becoming stuck in the assembly so let’s not be too quick to condemn an innocent faucet! All faucets are presumed innocent until proven faulty in a court of law! Or at least until proven faulty. In some cases however, older faucets can suffer from worn rubber washers or a fouled cartridge. I’m assuming you’ve already tried to flush any contaminates by fully opening each faucet and letting it run for a few moments. This is best effectuated when connected to a city water source, (temporarily remove the pressure regulator if so equipped). If your faucets are indeed metal, chances are they contain seat washers.

If a thorough flushing did not remove the debris and the faucets still drip, it will be necessary to disassemble the faucets and check the seat washers. First, turn off all water sources and relieve the pressure at the lavatory faucets. Remove the Hot and Cold handles. There is usually a single screw located below each button on top of each handle. Once the handles are off, carefully remove the bonnet lock and washer. Some will just lift off and others may pop off by gently using a flat blade screwdriver. Remove each stem and bonnet assembly using an adjustable wrench or a deep-well socket. I believe you’ll find them to require a 3/4-inch socket. They are removed by turning counter-clockwise. Now’s the time to carefully inspect each assembly as well as inside the body of the faucet for loose debris and/or mineral build-up. Brush or scrape away any residue you find. Rinse all the parts in clean water. Carefully inspect the bottom seat washer and replace it if it’s dried out, cracked, pinched or distorted in any way. A single screw holds this washer in place. For a quick test (or even a temporary fix), flip that washer over and reassemble the assembly, turn the water back on and check for drips. If the dripping goes away, you’ll know it’s the washer that needs replacing. If the faucet continues to drip periodically, you’ll have to dig further and inspect the seats inside the body of the faucet.

Some faucets have removable seats while others do not. If you see a hexagonal opening in the seats, those can be removed and replaced. Check the top surface of each seat to be sure there are no nicks or cuts. Replace the seats if you feel any sense of scratchiness or roughness. Plastic seats are more prone to damage than brass seats, so check carefully if yours are plastic.

If the faucets, however, contain washerless cartridges they will also contain an O-ring instead of a flat seat washer. It will also have a filtering device in the body of the shank. Be sure to check the filter screen for debris before reassembling. Faucet seats, washers and O-rings are readily available at any hardware store. Take care whenever threading the seats and the stem/bonnet assemblies into the body of the faucet during reassembly. It’s quite easy to cross-thread them! Instead of a 50-cent repair, you’ll be looking at a complete faucet replacement! After reassembly, turn the water pressure back on and check your work. Faucet repair is not as daunting as some might suspect.

Adding RV Batteries

2011-07-28T15:09:00.000-07:00

Hey Doc, I just recently purchased a used Class A Newmar coach. Where do I find out what rating of battery needs to be used for replacement? The specific gravity on the existing batteries are low and after charging, is not coming up. The batteries are weak after only 8 hours of using a very light load. They are five years old. I have no clue as to what amp-hour I should be using. Rich W. (Virginia Beach, VA)

Rich, you can measure the battery cases of your existing batteries to determine the amp-hour rating; most battery suppliers will have a chart indicating the amperage rating based on the physical size of the case. But it’s always been my advice to carry as many batteries as the space and your wallet will allow. You can never have too much battery capacity. Many motorhomes use Group 27 (or larger) batteries for their auxiliary DC power. Some go with 6-volt batteries wired in series. Be sure to have your existing batteries tested properly before condemning them; though at five years, they probably have indeed expired their useful lives.

Put as many Group 27s in there as can fit. You’ll want the highest amperage storage capacity as possible. As an example, two Group 27, 12-volt batteries wired in parallel will equal about 210 amps of storage capacity. Two Trojan T-105, 6-volt batteries wired in series will yield about 225 amps of storage. If you can fit three or more Group 27 12-volt batteries, then go for that. When using 6-volt batteries they must be added in pairs. But do the math....four Group 27s in parallel will provide 420 amps or so, but four T-105s will provide 450 amps total, and with a slightly smaller footprint.

More is usually better! You may also want to consider an upgrade to AGM batteries if you plan on extended dry camping excursions. Lots of options to consider!

Choosing a Tankless RV Water Heater

2011-07-26T15:21:00.000-07:00

I am trying to compare tankless RV hot water heaters. The two I found are the Girard and Precision Temp. The Girard has less BTUs and states that to increase heat you need to decrease volume, which sucks for taking a shower. Is the Precision Temp unit the same? I am a full-timer and travel to and stay at winter locations. Phil W. (Rapid City, SD)

Phil, I’ve seen the Girard unit at the National RVIA Trade Show, but I’ve never installed one or had it tested. I haven't seen any reviews about it either. It’s relatively new on the market. The Precision Temp RV 500, on the other hand, has been around for a few years and I’ve personally installed and tested one. Though I didn't take a shower, (it was a customer's rig, after all!), it worked perfectly during testing after the installation. Click here to read my full review of the RV 500.

Why RV Service Technician Certification is Important!

2011-07-25T08:41:00.000-07:00

I am very frustrated! I just purchased a used coach and I have had no problems so far until this week. I left for about four days and when I came back I noticed a wet spot on the floor in the corner near the slideout and under the fridge. I often stay at a resort site and have asked several other owners about pressure regulators as I only had a trickle of water and they didn't use one so I took it off a week ago. I checked under all the sinks and saw no problems then went on my trip. I called a mobile RV repair person who came out this afternoon and didn't even let me tell him about my pressure theory, but announced that my slideout was leaking and that all slideouts have the potential to leak and when it rains the slideout should be retracted. That makes no sense to me at all. He told me to put silver tape over the rubber seams and left without charging me. I hooked my water back up and checked it about two hours later and it was wetter then before. I looked under the back left area of the rig where I am speaking of but the underbelly is enclosed. I pushed up on the belly and water started dripping. I don't know how to get in there to look at anything. It is not pouring but dripping. I still think there is some small hole in line where the fresh water enters the coach behind the white compartment where you hook up the city water hose. Any ideas? Linda M. (Lacey, WA)

Linda, I hear your frustration and it frustrates me greatly that some incompetent service technicians are simply not good troubleshooters! The first step, as a troubleshooter, is to listen to the customer for crying out loud! Now maybe the slideout seals were indeed leaking (that is a problem with some designs), but taping over the seal is most certainly NOT a viable repair tactic. And he wanted YOU to do it! Incredible!

It’s also apparent that you still have a leak in the fresh water system; maybe not a hole, but quite simply a leak at a connection caused by the wracking and twisting of the coach as it travels down the road. As for pressure regulation, I always recommend a regulator if the incoming city pressure exceeds around 65 PSI. Perhaps the maintenance person at the resort will actually measure the city pressure at your site to determine if the regulator is truly necessary. But it certainly would not hurt to always use an in-line regulator.

Still, it is apparent a seeping leak still exists and must be located and repaired before structural damage occurs. Mold and mildew are also a concern if left unattended. There should definitely be no water retention in between the floor and sub-floor, ever. It’s paramount you have a certified RV service technician inspect, diagnose and repair the leak(s) as soon as possible. Leak repairs should not be that difficult to diagnose with the proper testing equipment. It can be determined in a matter of fifteen minutes IF a leak exists. The repair however, may be more difficult to effectuate, but a quick diagnosis could lead to a quicker repair. Try to locate a service facility in your area that employs Certified or Master Certified service technicians. The Industry Certification awarded by RVIA and RVDA means that technician has been tested and is qualified to perform professional RV troubleshooting and subsequent repairs. Look for the certification patch (see photo), on any RV technician working on your RV or ask to see their certification prior to authorizing repair work.

RV Out of Warranty

2011-07-21T03:00:00.000-07:00

Our Crossroads Seville has four slideouts and it's only about four years old and already two of the four slides have malfunctioned and not opened. I think this is a bit too soon for this type of repair expense. Should we see if the manufacturer will back the repairs or is there a maintenance procedure that we could be doing to keep them operating easier? Sandi T. (Fostoria, OH)

Sandi, it’s doubtful the dealer or the manufacturer will be of much help, financially, on a coach approaching four years old (most warranties term out at 12 months). But it certainly cannot hurt to ask! A sincere letter or email to the manufacturer may be the best approach. It all depends on which components actually malfunctioned. There are some RV-owner maintenance procedures mandated by most manufacturers, but typically they involve cleaning, lubricating and taking care not to overload the slide room mechanisms.

Also, check to be sure you do not have an applicable extended warranty or service agreement, either from the dealer or a 3rd party vendor. Additionally, look online for any recall notices that may apply to your unit or the maker of the slide mechanism. But let me know what actually failed with those two rooms.

Product Spotlight: OP Products - Pure Power Blue

2011-07-19T14:16:00.000-07:00

The trials and tribulations of RV waste management and odor control have long been a topic of interest here on the RV Doctor Website. And typically I try to leave you with a workable solution, rather than just highlight the problem and walk away.

For many years I've extolled the benefits of RM Tank Care, one of the very first enzyme-based, bacteria-infused waste digesters to enter the RV marketplace. And one that truly worked! But alas, some good things are bound to come to an end. And so it is with RM Tank Care. The parent company recently removed RV Tank Care from the market in order to focus on their other products. So the search was on for a replacement product to help RVers everywhere deal with odor control and the breakup of solid, black holding tank waste.

As readers of the RV Doctor Column and website are aware, there are now many such products out there regarding odor control and confusion abounds about how effective they may or may not be. So recently, the good folks at Drainmaster, introduced me to another product, Pure Power Blue, as produced by OP Products. My initial research encouraged me to dig a little deeper.

As part of my due diligence, I typically rely on a close cadre of individuals including RV educators, authors, Master Certified RV service technicians, engineers and others to help direct my personal recommendations. For this product evaluation I called on one of my FOGs (Friends of Gary), author and RV service technician, Chris Dougherty to help with some experimentation.

Since the “Go Green” movement permeated the RV Industry, it's been proven that the use of certain chemicals, including formaldehyde, a common preservative found in RV toilet chemicals, is hazardous to the environment, humans and pets. Just about every company that manufactures these additives now produces a green alternative. OP Products may be the exception since they've only produced "green" additives, avoiding any use of chemicals, from day one. Perfecting upon their development of Pure Power Green, they are now offering what they consider to be the most powerful, easiest to use and most economical RV holding tank additive yet developed, Pure Power Blue, Waste Digester and Odor Eliminator. Pure Power Blue is four times as concentrated as any near competition.

Featuring their proprietary “BioBlast Plus” technology, this new product uses bacteria and enzymes to break down waste naturally and safely. The company states that their biodegradable product will “control odor immediately, even in high heat conditions over 120°F.” In addition, the bacteria and enzymes in their product enhance the sewage and septic systems to which they’re introduced.

Pure Power Blue is available as a liquid in sizes ranging from 4 to 128 ounces. It is also available in convenient, dissolving, single-use pouches, in 6 or 12-pouch packages. The company states that a mere 2 ounces or 1 bio-pouch will treat a 40-gallon tank (an additional dose is recommended for temperatures above 105°F).

When it comes to a bacteria-based holding tank treatment solution, a normal question might be: is it safe? According to OP Products, “The bacteria used in [their] products are non-pathogenic, friendly Bacillus bacteria. These types of bacteria are cultivated from natural sources, therefore they are perfectly safe to use in any cleaning or maintenance situation.”

The Pure Power Blue liquid is a lighter color than some of the traditional products and has a pleasant smell when opened. Simply add 2 ounces of Pure Power Blue to a gallon of water and that’s it. The same for the bio-pouch; one gallon or just enough water to cover the bottom of the tank.

One claim the company makes is that it will break down any 2-ply household toilet tissue, meaning there's no need to use RV-specific, quick-dissolve paper, which of course, is more expensive than store brands. So Chris set out to test that claim. Here's his report:

The Experiment: I used two clean glass jars, one with plain tap water and the other with a tap water/Pure Power Blue mixture (about ½ ounce of additive in the jar of water). I then added four sheets of store brand, (generic), 2-ply toilet tissue to each jar.

The Results: In a one hour test, the toilet paper in the plain tap water remained as it was when I inserted it. When stirred, it held together perfectly, without deforming or separating at all. However, in the Pure Power Blue solution, the paper had dissolved almost completely, and upon stirring, was nicely broken down and completely shredded. Clearly, complete dissolving would have occurred within a short time, perhaps another hour or two, but even at this point in time, flushing of holding tanks would have been easy and complete.

In a practical use test over three days in July, I found quite remarkable results. I added a single bio-pouch to the black water tank with a few gallons of water. The system was used by two people during that time and outside temperatures were around 80°F. Upon dumping the tanks, the black tank, which is always dumped and rinsed first, did so with little or no evidence of solids. Nor was there any odor that would normally accompany this process; it was absolutely absent. Upon dumping the grey water from the kitchen, however, where no additive was used, a perceptible odor was noticed. In my many years of RVing experience, this was the first time this phenomenon occurred. It will be interesting to see if this scenario holds up with longer use and more people are using the RV.

There are a couple of things to ponder about most typical bio-agents used for RV odor control. First, if you’ve recently used a formaldehyde-based product, you'll typically need to flush the tanks numerous times to help eliminate the residual formaldehyde which may kill the bacteria. Also, doubled dosages are required during the first few uses until all the old chemical is completely removed. Second, there are some products, like toilet cleansers, sanitizers, sanitizing hand soap, etc., that should not be used in conjunction with typical tank additives. Basically, anything that kills bacteria will render most products inert. Not so with Pure Power Blue. Because of its highly concentrated formula, such cleaning agents will not destroy the live bacteria. Remember, it's four times as potent as any other product on the market!

Test Conclusion: Pure Power Blue Waste Digester and Odor Eliminator is a great addition to the RVing lifestyle, making holding tank duties easier and more pleasant, plus it's good for the environment and RV park septic systems as well. A win-win for everyone. And remember, RVing is more than a hobby, it is a lifestyle!

RV Storage - Comfy Indeed!

2011-07-18T03:00:00.000-07:00

We purchased a Komfort travel trailer six months ago. I am fortunate that I can store it inside an insulated, cooled and heated building when not on the road. When should I consider doing anything to the roof? Ray B., (Union, WA)

You are indeed fortunate Ray! The only thing you really need to do is perform a detailed inspection a couple times a year and simply keep it clean. The fact that it is out of the weather when not in use is a huge advantage! Just keep an eye on all the seams, seals and all attaching points for the various components mounted up there. If you choose a cleaning or preserving product, be sure it is compatible with that type of roofing surface.

Broken Weld on Travel Trailer Wheel

2011-07-13T03:00:00.000-07:00

A friend of mine had a travel trailer wheel split at the weld while traveling in Canada. When he got back in the States, he spoke with a man who said that the chrome wheels that come with the load range G tires cannot handle the sideway pressure exerted by the tires. He called me and told me about this since I have load range G tires on our Jayco coach with what appears to be aluminum wheels. Is there any validity to the claim about the weld? Phil E., (Sioux Falls, SD)

Phil, I posed your question to Walter Cannon, Executive Director of the RV Safety and Education Foundation, one of the foremost experts on tires and RV safety. Here's what he had to say:

"Having a weld brake although not common, does happen. Trailers are simply hard on tires and wheels. Whenever there are axles close together the lateral forces applied to the tires and wheels when turning are tremendous. This is particularly true when turning at low speeds like in campgrounds and in-town driving. Inflating trailer tires to the sidewall pressure will help them run cooler with less heat buildup as well as minimize the lateral forces applied in tight turn situations. These forces take their toll on the wheels and tires and failure will normally occur when the tire and wheel are at their highest temperature, i.e. running at highway speeds. Tires and wheels are matched to work together, in most cases this is based on air pressure ratings, if tires upgraded from an 80psi (load range E) to the 120psi (load range G) without upgrading wheels it could cause a problem. There is little one can do about the sideways forces other than to try to make as wide and smooth low speed turns as possible and avoid sharp tight turns. Aluminum wheels are normally milled from a solid block and do not experience the same type of problems as welded steel wheels."

Hope this helps!

Whistling Motorhome and Stopped Up Waste Drains - A Two-fer!

2011-07-11T03:00:00.000-07:00

Thanks for a great seminar! Time ran out and I didn't get to ask you two questions. Both are among the more difficult that I've ever had to deal with and I spent eight weeks at and graduated from the Camping World University, so I'm prepared to try most anything. We have a loud whistling noise when traveling over 55 mph; particularly, with a head wind. Of course, the obvious solution (to paraphrase the Henny Youngman joke), "don't drive over 55 mph!" A technician moved the mirrors out saying that it would fix the problem; wrong. Upon returning home I filled in all of the possible openings in the firewall with foam. Do you have any other suggestions?

Also, equally challenging; I have an occasional blockage of the black water tank at the exit of the drain pipe into the tank. The solution to clearing the blockage is to stick a nozzled hose down there; a messy unpleasant task. All previous coaches have had the toilet positioned directly over the tank. Our floor plan required a double 45-degree angle into the tank. Consequently, solids enter the tank at a slower speed, and the tank depth is less at the entry point than at the rest of the tank. I believe the manufacturer recognized this design shortcoming in our 2008 floor plan by installing a macerating toilet in the comparable 2009 model. I've discontinued using the Sani-Con all together because by emptying fluids first, it merely exacerbates the problem. I had an extension added to the back flush on the tank so that it is now at the position on the tank where the solids exit as opposed to the far left of the tank. Upon returning home, I'll remove the flush and drill a hole in the end. The "nozzles" spray in multiple directions and it should help if I can get a more concentrated spray directly on the solids that accumulate at the entrance to the tank. Any additional suggestions that you may have will be greatly appreciated. Joe G. (no city/state)

Joe, the whistling problem can be a real nuisance and an even more difficult disturbance to troubleshoot. The dynamics of noises produced by moving air is an interesting study. Almost any thing or combination of things can contribute to the noise. The obvious (seemingly) culprits include air horns, TV and radio antennas, curved moldings on sidewalls, design characteristics of the front cap, window placement, etc. This is a tough one to diagnose, especially via long distance! A detailed inspection of everything on the roof and at the front of the coach is in order. Look for loose moldings, gaps in the sidewall, etc. I’ve even seen wind deflectors installed in front of air horns and antennas, but I have no proof that it truly helped. There is a product call Air-Tabs that I have not personally tested or evaluated, but it may be worth a call to the company to see if they have any recommendations regarding air movement and noise at the front of the motorhome. That’s a tough one! You could always just crank up the bluegrass music to 10 and you won't even hear the whistling noise!

As to your second question, it is unfortunate that the toilet drains through two, 45-degree elbows before entering the tank. It is code compliant, by the way, but when coupled with that offset shelf built into the design of the holding tank, it simple worsens the situation. To gain more velocity, always evacuate when the holding tank is nearly full, even if you have to add fresh water to top it off. Refilling the holding tank with fresh water and dumping again will indeed help. In fact, it is recommended to refill and dump all holding tanks in this manner when practical. (Here are my recommended dumping procedures).

And be sure to use an enzyme-based, live bacteria-type holding tank additive to help reduce the mass of the solid waste during the time it's in the holding tank. Using copious amounts of water during each flush of the toilet may help, but it appears you are at the mercy of the floorplan. Unless you opt to replace the toilet with a macerator toilet.

Very Loud RV Water Pump

2011-07-05T03:00:00.000-07:00

We have a new 27-foot travel trailer RV. The first time we used it the water pump was very loud. What can we do to quiet it down? Kim H. (Cheyenne, WY)

Kim, the first thing you can do is check to see how the pump is actually anchored to the RV. Is it securely mounted on a non-vibrating surface? Most are installed flat on the floor or the bottom of a wet bay. Also, be sure the rubber isolators are in good shape. Yours probably are since you state it’s a brand new coach. Next make sure none of the fresh water tubing is hitting against any surface, floor, wall, partition, etc. You may need a flashlight to view the tubing as it leaves the output port of the pump. Some manufacturers may be lacking in their securing of the tubing as it is routed throughout the coach.

If the original installation appears solid, there are two aftermarket products that may help. One is a “Silencing Kit” produced by SHURflo. Scroll part way down this page. It is applicable to any water pump, by the way. Any RV parts department can order this kit for you; part #94-591-01. I’m assuming your fresh water piping system consists of PEX tubing. For an optimum installation, it’s best to have a double loop of flexible water hose connected directly to the pump before it is connected to the semi-rigid PEX tubing (unlike the photo above). Not all manufacturers do this, unfortunately. But adding the SHURflo “Silencing Kit” performs the same function.

If that doesn’t work, you may require an in-line accumulator (further down on the same page above). It simply installs in the cold water system, downstream of the pump. The accumulator is charged with a cushion of air and acts like a shock absorber while the pump is operating. All water pumps create a vibration when operating, so controlling the amplified effects of that can be minimized with either product.

Safely Jacking Up a Travel Trailer

2011-07-03T03:00:00.000-07:00

I have a Keystone Zeppelin, 24-foot travel trailer with tandem axles. I would like to know the best way to get all four wheels off the ground at the same time to service wheels, besides rolling onto blocks to get one axle at a time. The axle owner's manual says not to jack on the axles. Where is the best place to jack and block for wheel service? David L. (Cumming, GA)

David, in my shop, if I couldn’t get the entire RV onto a hoist, I would only jack one side of the trailer at a time. Perform the service at each axle on that one side, then move to the other side. I would jack only on the main frame rail and allow the suspension to hang until both tires were clear of the shop floor. I would then lower that side onto appropriate, (read: weight capable), safety jack stands. Then simply repeat the process on the other side. For any RV being raised up with a floor jack, it’s much safer to always have at least two tires (or one side), safely on the ground at all times. Remember, safety first, the time element, second!

RV Waste System Plumbing Odors Under One Sink Only

2011-06-28T03:00:00.000-07:00

I have two bathroom sinks in my coach. One with the commode and one next to the shower. The one in the hallway of the coach has a terrible smell. It is not all the time, but I cannot pin-point what is causing it. This has been going on for a few years now. I have poured the stuff that takes away smell down there and even used apple cider vinegar. Nothing seems to work. It is just that one drain. Any suggestions? Kathy P. (Sioux Falls, SD)

Kathy, chances are you have a faulty anti-siphon trap vent device (ASTVD) under that sink. It’s a small ABS plastic fitting found near the P-traps under most RV sinks. Its purpose is to allow air into the drain system to help drain the sink, at the same time it prohibits gases and odors from coming in from the holding tank and drain piping. It is constructed with a spring-loaded rubber diaphragm. Oftentimes this rubber membrane will dry out and not fully seal against the rising odors out of the waste system. Other times, the spring simply wears out. If you look under your sink and follow the horizontal ABS piping as it leaves the P-trap, you’ll likely find the ASTVD situated a few inches above this horizontal arm. It’s a simple, screw-on fitting. In some cases, the rubber membrane can be renewed by applying a lubricating grease; I recommend Dow 111 grease. It’s a relatively inexpensive component and is easily replaced by any RV handyperson since it does not require any sealant and is only hand-tightened in place. They can be purchased or ordered through any RV parts department or even on-line.

Another thing to consider, especially if you need a little more room under those sinks, is to replace all the P-traps with a HepvO waterless sanitary valve. When using a HepvO valve, an ASTVD is not needed at all. Plus there is zero maintenance (no winterizing, cleaning, etc.), when using a HepvO valve. But one of the biggest benefits is the added storage space under the sinks. This is the route I highly recommend! Read all about the HepvO waterless sanitary valve.

Also, while we're on the topic, here are my recommended holding tank dumping procedures, which also mention the HepvO.

And since I’m loading you up with websites, here’s a short video I did regarding the HepvO valve.

You’ll also find more helpful information at the new, Sweet Smelling Blog.

Hope this helps! At least it will keep you busy for a while!

Sway Control for Short Travel Trailers a Good Idea?

2011-06-26T03:10:00.000-07:00

I am a newbie to RVing and I just purchased a used Prowler 22-foot travel trailer and I am towing it behind my F-250. My question is, do I need a sway bar? I am getting mixed messages mostly leaning towards not needing one. Tami W. (Granite Falls, WA)

Tami, I am a firm believer in both a weight distributing hitch AND a sway control when towing any travel trailer. Even with shorter trailers, you will find the addition of a sway control device to be beneficial. The hitch assembly is the most crucial connection between tow vehicle and trailer so it just makes good sense to have as much advantage at that connection as possible. You’ll no doubt hear others state it’s not needed on the shorter towables, but I can show you a bunch of photos of wrecked units that the owners wished they would have gone that little bit extra. Call it cheap insurance, (relatively speaking, of course), but it will certainly add to the safety margin. Also, be very sure all components within the hitch assembly, receiver, ball mount, spring bars, etc., are all rated for the loaded weight of the trailer, and that all parts are set-up properly. There are certain procedures for proper set-up and most are published on-line. But my number one rule is, never compromise the safety factor!

RV Electrical; Home Receptacle Quandry

2011-06-22T03:00:00.000-07:00

We are building a new home and the home builder refuses to put in a 30-amp connection; they will only put in a 20-amp or a 50-amp. I am having the 50-amp plug installed in my garage. On your website you mention the 50-amps at the park pedestal are two, 110-volt lines, (not 220-volts). I am not sure if my plug for my new home is 110 or 220-volts. Would I be able to still use the 50-amp plug, (I will need a 50-30 amp adapter), on my motorhome? I have a 35-foot Challenger motorhome. It has a 30-amp plug attached to the unit. Steve R. (no city/state)

Steve, I’m not sure why your contractor can’t install a dedicated 30-amp RV receptacle, (NEMA TT-30R), for your coach. Perhaps he's not aware of the RV 30-amp configuration? It's only used in the RV industry. A 50-amp motorhome will have two legs of 120-volts AC each; the coach circuits will be split between these two hot poles. Nothing in the RV (typically), is powered by 240-volts AC. The service is simply two separate circuits of 50-amps each, along with a shared neutral conductor and a ground wire. But if you take a voltage reading between the two hot poles, it will measure 240-volts AC.

If your guy can’t install a simple three-wire, 30-amp circuit, I’d be hesitant to have him install a four-wire, 50-amp circuit! It’s probably best to contact a local, licensed electrician who also understands recreation vehicles.

Personally, I’d opt for a dedicated, 50-amp receptacle, (NEMA 14-50R), and like you suggested, use an adapter for your current motorhome. Better to be equipped for the higher current/larger conductors in case you were to ever upgrade your RV to one with 50-amp service. If you install only a 30-amp receptacle and then buy a new coach with 50-amp circuits, when you adapt the other way (30-50), through the adapter, you'll lose all the circuits on one of the hot legs inside the coach. Better to have the higher amperage receptacle and be set.

Leaky RV Window Can Cause Structural Damage

2011-06-21T13:07:00.000-07:00

My husband and I own a 4-Winds Hurricane. When we first purchased it, pre-owned about five years ago, from an elderly neighborhood couple, we had not planned on it. It just kind of happened and we couldn't be happier. However, initially there was a little bubble in the fiberglass shell below the back bedroom windows. We were told that the windows were put in backwards and water had gotten in but the windows were corrected and no problems since. But over the last couple years, the bubbles have gotten bigger and where our pleated shade screws into the wall below the windows inside, they pulled loose. It is soft inside the holes and we fear we may have to replace the inside wall. What exactly is involved and what kind of money are we talking about? We love our RV and keep her immaculate. We want to keep her for many more years as she has given us such great memories. One especially...my mom died a couple years ago and I had the opportunity to take her camping and she loved it. She had never done anything like that in her life. So can it be fixed and can we save her? Angie L. (Trainer, PA)

Angie, it was so nice that you got to take your Mom RVing! You can forever know the joy you brought to her on that trip.

I'm a little confused about having the windows installed backwards; that's really not possible. Upside down, maybe, which would definitely result in a water leak. In any case, it is apparent moisture has invaded the interior walls. If indeed the window leaks have been stopped, it's possible only relatively minor repairs are required. But it will take an expert RV service technician to fully inspect and assess the resulting damage. Some of it may be hidden inside the wall. In minor cases, the delamination of the exterior surface will often cease once the leak is sealed. But if the interior paneling is weakened or rotted, the problem may be more severe. In most cases, the damage can be mitigated. How much it might cost is unknown until the inspection process is completed. I would definitely find a qualified service tech to fully inspect the damaged area. I do have an experienced, Master Certified RV Technician in your area I can refer you to; contact:

Ron Donachie
Ron’s Mobile RV Services, Inc.
Serving Eastern Pennsylvania
484-225-8211
rondon@ptd.net

He'll come to your door and perform the necessary inspections and to assure all leaks have been eliminated.

Can I Convert a 2-way RV Refrigerator to a 3-way?

2011-06-20T17:30:00.000-07:00

We just replaced our Dometic refrigerator with a new one. On our old refrigerator we had an aftermarket 3-way switch put in (AC, DC, Propane). That way we could run our fridge on DC while we drove. Now I am told I can only use propane or electric and the fridge is off during travel. I can't believe stuff stays cold enough. We often travel for several hours at a time. What is the problem with using DC while driving? The batteries charge while driving. Is it possible to put in an inverter? Edie T., (Kent, WA)

Edie, indeed, the two major manufacturers of RV refrigerators produce both 2-way (120-volts AC and propane) and 3-way models, which includes a 12-volt heater for operation while the vehicle is in motion. The 12-volt DC mode of operation, however, is considered a “maintenance mode” only. Realistically, the refrigerator’s interior compartments must already be cooled down and the food chilled prior to setting the unit to the 12-volt mode. It would take too much out of a typical battery system to cool a warm refrigerator down from scratch on battery power alone. In other words, the drain on the system would be a greater load than most battery systems could provide before becoming depleted. By the way, I’m not aware of an approved aftermarket kit for adding a 12-volt DC heating element to a standard 2-way refrigerator and would be quite hesitant about using one anyway. For correct absorption cooling operation, the sockets for the heating elements must be properly welded to the cooling core and this can only take place during manufacture.

Yes, you could add a dedicated inverter to power the refrigerator on 120-volt AC while driving, but that too, would require proper sizing of the battery bank. In my experience, simply getting the refrigerator (and the properly stowed food), as cold as possible on propane or shoreline power before heading out, and then avoiding opening the doors during the day, will usually keep everything cold enough until you can fire up one of the other modes once you stop for the night. The frozen T-bones and lobster tails should not defrost during that time. Of course, even a 2-way refrigerator is designed to be operated on propane while driving down the road if you are in that camp, (check out this related question).

If you really must have the refrigerator on while driving, but aren’t confident using propane while going down the road, then the addition of an inverter and a healthier battery bank might be the most economical option; certainly less than swapping out the refrigerator again for a 3-way unit. I'm curious as to why the dealer simply didn't sell you a 3-way model to begin with...

RV Storage Question from Down Under

2011-06-15T03:05:00.000-07:00

We live in Australia but own a 30-foot, C Class motorhome in the USA and come over every 12-18 months to travel around, usually for around 2 months at a time. When we aren't using the motorhome we store it at a friend's house just outside of Las Vegas and we have heard conflicting opinions of late as to whether or not we should keep a cover over the motorhome while it is stored because of the heat. It is open to the elements, although it is parked between the garage and 6-foot high fence so it does have some protection. We currently have it covered with an ADCO RV cover and it is one recommended for use against extreme temperatures. We also have tyre guards on all wheels. Could you please give us your opinion regarding whether or not you feel that our motorhome should be covered or not while not in use. Thanks. Noel & Pam W. (Ipswich, Australia)

By all means, I do recommend a total coach cover during lengthy periods of downtime, Noel and Pam, especially in a climate like Las Vegas. The ADCO cover is probably your best bet, though I’ve not personally tested their products. They do seem to get high marks from other RVers, however. It’s probably also wise to keep one roof vent opened a little, even under the cover. And a window slightly opened at the opposite end of the coach. This will allow for a little free-flowing convection air movement through the coach.

Protecting the tires is paramount and keeping them covered is a good idea. UV and ozone are two of the killers of RV tires. Realize that, even though not used extensively, the tires will probably only last 5-7 years, regardless of how the tread looks. RV tires usually do not wear out, they typically age out.

But overall, you’re probably doing the best by keeping the coach covered while you’re away.

Tankless RV Water Heater - Redux

2011-06-13T14:41:00.000-07:00

I saw your comments about the tankless water heater. Five years ago I seriously considered getting one. I was going to replace my 10-gallon with a 5-gallon. I was floored when I saw the price of the unit. It was almost 3 times the price of the gas-electric-engine assist water heater I ended up getting. I figured I could buy a hell of a lot of propane with the price difference. You should have mentioned that fact to your readers. Most of the time I use the 110 volt feature and while traveling the engine gives what I need. When I boondock I just turn on the gas switch before I take a shower. Wilson S. (no city/state)

And a related question:

I enjoyed your article on the tankless water system but it would be nice to know how much they cost and the approximate installation expense. Bob W. (Jacksonville, FL)

Wilson and Bob, as a general policy, I do not mention prices of the products we test and review; here’s why. With Internet shopping, plus varying retail levels at RV dealerships, stand-alone service centers, big box stores and discount warehouses, it would be impossible to establish an accurate price across the board. Even using a supplier’s “suggested retail price” is rarely accurate since some dealers will opt to take less of a profit margin just to make a sale. If I quoted any retail cost, someone will likely find it cheaper somewhere else. It really serves no purpose since it’s up to the buying public to actually set the selling price at the retail level. Due diligence and keen buyer awareness go much further than any dollar amount mentioned in an article. At least every retail outlet is on equal footing at that point.

But I hear ya! You have to weigh the cost vs. practicality in many instances. Not to defend the price of a tankless water heater, but it’s not just the cost of propane that fits into the formula. Less weight prolongs the life of RV tires, suspension components, etc. No tank eliminates maintenance costs. How far, how often you travel factors in, as does convenience. Some families might run out of hot water frequently if traveling extensively or living full-time in an RV. Endless hot water on demand just might be worth the extra cost for a family. Retail purchases, therefore, can be a very subjective decision. One of the great things about the RV industry! At least now you know why I don’t list prices in my product reviews!

Bob, the RV-500 that I installed was not a typical RV installation, but when replacing a standard RV propane water heater with the RV-500, the installation should probably take a certified technician no more than about two hours to install at the most. It all depends on how much alteration of the cut-out opening is necessary (if any). If replacing an electronic water heater, the 12-volt wiring should already be present. The propane gas line will likely need to be rerouted slightly as well. But that too, is already in the general vicinity.

I would suggest you download the installation instructions and take them to your local RV service shop. They’ll be able to provide you with a more accurate estimate after they read through the instructions and inspect your coach.

RV Batteries Go Dead, Even While Plugged Into Shore Power

2011-06-09T15:49:00.000-07:00

What runs off the electrical when you're at an RV park? Been here two days and last night my lights dimmed to nothing and the water pump quit. I switched the fridge over to propane just to be safe. The clock on the microwave still works though. I'm here for another 5 days! I started the RV and it gave the lights a big boost and the pump worked again. But only lasted a short time after shutting the engine off. Why did this happen? It's the first time it ever happened. Are my auxiliary batteries dead because they're brand new? And I thought once you plugged the RV into the park power, the auxiliary batteries weren't in use! I'm confused here. How does this all work? Please help. Kelly, (Fenelon Falls, ONT)

When plugged into shore power at the campground, presumably the AC to DC converter will charge the auxiliary battery bank. All the lamps, fans, water pump, etc., still operate on 12-volts DC, just that the DC electricity is provided by the converter instead of the batteries while plugged in. If the converter charging module (or the breaker for the converter), is turned off, or if you have some type of battery disconnect solenoid engaged, the batteries will not be able to receive a charge. Your microwave, by the way, is powered by 120-volts AC only; which is why the clock still works.

The fact that the lights got brighter when you started the engine is an indication that the batteries are indeed very low, if not completely dead. The engine alternator was simply providing the DC voltage while the engine was running. Regardless of the brand of motorhome, the brand and type of converter/charger installed and whether or not any disconnect devices are employed, it’s obvious the batteries are not receiving a charge while the coach is plugged in to shore power.

If you can measure an increase in DC voltage at the battery bank when the coach is plugged in, then the battery charge circuit is at least complete and probably working. If the voltage does not go up when plugged in, look for a blown fuse in the charge circuit in the converter/charger. Look also for any electronic disconnect switches that totally isolate the battery system. It’s common on some coaches to employ these during storage or a lengthy downtime. If they are activated while using the coach, it literally takes the batteries out of the system, meaning you cannot charge or discharge them.

Another cause would be an open conductor (broken wire) between the converter and the battery bank. Any type of break in that circuit would result in the same symptom. A high degree of oxidation or corrosion on the battery posts (both positive and negative posts), can also prohibit the batteries from being charged. Be sure the battery terminals are clean, dry and tight and check the ground connection at the frame from the negative terminal on the battery bank. Any open in the charging circuit could prohibit the converter from charging the bank. The last item to have tested, are the batteries themselves. A carbon-pile load test will determine the health of the batteries if everything else checks out.

RV Travel Trailer Tires - US vs. Imports

2011-06-09T15:29:00.000-07:00

I have a question and I'm hoping that you can answer it. Why can't I find a trailer (ST) tire that is not made in China? I know that some US made ST tires can still have a problem of holding up to the task but I'm sure we all know the Chinese made tires are not very good at all, I know this from some bad experience running on them plus their was a major recall on Chinese made tires not too long ago. I know that I would shell out some more dollars for a safer tire, wouldn't you? Michael J. (San Diego, CA)

Michael, since specialty tires are seemingly always a hot topic in the RV realm, I posed your question to Walter Cannon, the Executive Director of the RVSEF, (RV Safety & Education Foundation). Walter is the leading expert concerning tires, weights and RVs. Here's his response:

My best suggestion is to try Goodyear, Marathon or Carlisle tires. These companies make ST tires but you might want to verify that they are indeed made in the U.S. Depending on the exact tire size, some trailer manufacturers are opting for LT tires which are more widely available. Should you have any more questions, please let me know. Walter Cannon.

Gary's Note: Walter can be reached at staff@rvsafety.com.

Surprise Blockage in RV Holding Tank Drain!

2011-06-08T17:08:00.000-07:00

How do I retrieve a toilet cleaning brush, approximately 14-inches long, from the toilet-to-holding tank sewer pipe? The brush fell down the toilet and appears to have wedged inside the pipe causing clogging which fills up the pipe. Very little waste is making it to the holding tank. The pipe length from the bottom of the toilet to the entry to the holding tank is approximately two feet and has a 45-degree angle. Help! Robert H. (Santee, CA)

Robert, it's literally impossible for that cleaning brush to ever get past that first 45-degree elbow in the toilet drain. In this instance, it's actually a good thing your toilet drain has that bend in it. If it was a straight drop from the toilet into the holding tank, it would be more difficult retrieving it from the holding tank itself.

You'll simply have to cut through the 3-inch ABS drain pipe a few inches above or below the uppermost 45-degree elbow fitting. You may have to sacrifice the brush itself in doing so, but chances are you wouldn't be using that brush again anyway! Depending on how easy it is to flex either the upper or lower section of the drain pipe after the first cut, it may also be necessary to make an additional cut in the ABS piping on the opposite side of the elbow. Making two cuts will enable you to remove that section with the brush completely and then, easily remove and discard it.

Then simply cement two, 3-inch ABS couplers to reconnect the toilet drain piping. It may be difficult to install the 2nd coupling if there's not much give to the drain pipes. If that is the case, it may be easier to install a Calder-style coupler (see photo), instead of a glued-in fitting. A worst-case situation may mandate removing toilet and floor flange in order to reassemble all the pieces correctly.

It's amazing what gets dropped down the toilet and into the holding tank; none of which is a good thing. As you found out, it definitely causes blockage issues. Check out this blog post by my friends at Drain Master! I even had one reader wonder how to remove a set of dentures from the solid waste holding tank! Yikes!

RV Inverter Replacement

2011-06-01T16:02:00.000-07:00

I suspect I may have to replace my inverter/charger. I know you recommend a seperate Xantrex battery charger. But do you have a recommendation for a inverter to pair with the charger? John M. (Ft. Collins, CO)

John, I’d certainly stick with Xantrex when it comes to an inverter. Be sure it is sized appropriately for your demands. You may want to upgrade to a larger output in case you opt to add loads to the system at a later date. I always recommend a true sine wave inverter, but then again, I’m not subsidizing the expenditure! Use your own judgment, but sticking with Xantrex is your best bet, in my opinion.

Keep in mind, depending on the inverter model you choose, it may come equipped with the same charging technology as the Truecharge2 battery charger you mention. So there would be no need to purchase both an inverter and a battery charger. The inverter itself becomes the battery charger whenever 120-volts AC is available (generator or shore power). Do some investigating here first.

My question is what makes you think you may have to replace your existing inverter/charger? Be sure it was diagnosed correctly before replacing it.

RV Television Swap

2011-06-01T14:05:00.000-07:00

My husband and I are total "newbies" and my question will probably sound stupid to veteran RVers. The two TVs in our fifth wheel (probably original equipment) are dual voltage, (12/120). I know that means they can work when hooked up at a campground or on battery power from the "house" batteries if not connected to "shore" power. We'd like to replace them. Can we just use an ordinary TV or is there something different about the electric outlets/wiring/breakers in the RV that could ruin a new TV? Or does it just mean that the new TVs won't work unless we're connected to a campground power source? Sue L. (Ludlow, VT)

Never a stupid question Sue! But you nailed it; a 120-volt AC (only) television will only operate whenever the shore cord is plugged in. Unless, of course, you have a generator or an inverter on your 5th wheel. Both of which can be installed at any reputable RV service facility, by the way. All the receptacles and circuit breakers in the coach are 120-volt AC, similar to what you are accustomed to in a residential home. By swapping out the TVs, you lose the ability to watch while dry camping without hookups. But you can always add an inverter if that's too much of a burden.

RV Refrigerator "Auto Mode" Problem

2011-05-26T17:04:00.000-07:00

I recently purchased a Coachman Class A motorhome with a Dometic refrigerator Model RM2852 that has an "Auto Mode" switch to start up electrically using 120-volts alternating current. It also has a "Gas Mode" switch to start up by using propane. After several successful trips using both options, a problem has developed where I can only use the "Gas Mode" switch to start the refrigerator. It will not start using the "Auto Mode". The light inside will come on so it is getting power but it will not get cold even after 24 hours. Can you advise what is causing this problem? Patrick H., (Hockessin, DE)

Patrick, you say you can run the refrigerator on “Gas Mode,” but when you switch it to “Auto Mode” does any indicator lamp illuminate on the control panel? When on “Auto” and the coach is energized with 120-volts AC, both the “Auto” and “AC” lamps should light up. If not, there may be a blown fuse on the lower circuit board. It’s relatively easy to check if you have a volt, ohm multimeter. It’s possible you may have a problem with other components or wiring within the AC circuitry, but the most common cause is a blown AC fuse on the lower circuit board. But when it’s running on “Auto Mode,” that indicator lamp should remain lit.

Here’s what you can do; Unplug the refrigerator from the receptacle and gain access to the lower circuit board at the rear of the refrigerator. Then carefully remove the cover. Once removed, plug the refrigerator back in, power the RV with 120-volts AC and set the refrigerator to the “Auto Mode.” Next measure for AC voltage at terminals J5 and J6 on the board itself. If the unit is already cold, you may have to turn the thermostat to a lower temperature setting or wait until it warms a bit. You should also be able to measure the line voltage on terminals J7 and J8 as they lead directly to the AC heating element. If you don’t have voltage at these terminals, check for continuity of the 5-amp AC fuse and the 3-amp DC fuse on the board. Chances are the 3-amp DC fuse is good since the DC lamp works inside the refrigerator, but I’m guessing the 5-amp AC fuse is blown. A worst-case scenario is that the board itself is faulty. If indeed you can measure line voltage at terminals J7 and J8, then it’s possible you have a burned out heating element. If that is the case, I’d recommend a pro service tech do the replacement.

Also realize that if the serial number of your refrigerator is between 101XXXXX through 152XXXXX, it is subject to a recall notice. Ensure your unit has been retrofitted with the recall kit.

Must be Approved for RVs

2011-05-26T16:40:00.000-07:00

In answering an earlier question about replacing the water heater with an all-electric one, why did you only mention the Atwood and Suburban? Many residential electric hot water heaters are available at a much lower price than the RV models. We recently installed a 19-gallon water heater we bought at Lowe's in our fifth wheel. Dwight N. (Titusville, FL)

Dwight, currently only Atwood and Suburban manufacture standard propane and propane/electric water heaters for the RV market. I can only recommend those products that are approved for use in recreation vehicles. Aftermarket products must be RV-approved in order for the RV to remain code compliant. I can’t imagine the number of emails I’d receive if I ever recommended a non-approved product for use in RVs. The Standard for Recreation Vehicles, the NFPA 1192 is quite clear. Of course, RV owners can choose to install any product they feel inclined to, but from a safety standpoint, especially concerning 120-volts AC and propane gas, I can only recommend or endorse RV-approved products and services.

RV Battery Wiring

2011-05-18T15:49:00.000-07:00

I have a eight year-old Nash 5th wheeler. I have one completely dead battery in it now. I want to replace it with two, (Group 24), 12-volt batteries. I'm not sure how to hook them up. There is not enough room for two, small 6-volt batteries, as the space is quite small. Can you help me? I love your weekly feature on the RV Travel newsletter every Saturday. S. Stepnowski (no city/state)

Stan, parallel 12-volt batteries are interconnected by routing a battery cable from the positive post of one battery to the other positive post on the other battery. Same for the negative cable; negative to negative. The positive side of the load is then connected to the positive post of one battery and the negative side of the load is connected to the negative post on the other battery. That’s the best scenario for a two-battery bank.

But if you have room for two, 12-volt batteries, you will have room for two, 6-volt batteries wired in series. Typically, two 6-volt batteries wired in series will yield a little more storage capacity than two, 12-volt batteries wired in parallel; assuming the batteries have the same footprint. But it’s certainly your choice!

Thanks for the mention of the RVtravel.com Newsletter. Be sure to sign up for the RV Doctor Newsletter too! (Check the upper right corner of this page, second box down from the top).

Wire Colors Can be Confusing!

2011-05-18T15:32:00.000-07:00

What genius decided to use black and white as positive and negative colored wires instead of the automotive red and black? Would it not have been less confusing to everyone to use red and black? S., (Slab City, CA)

Seann, perhaps you're being just too logical! I once had to troubleshoot a wiring issue under the dash of a motorhome. When I crawled under there, every single conductor was yellow! Just like in the converter pictured here, it basically boils down to what the policy is at that factory and what the parts manager at the factory purchases. Most modern coaches will have some type of color code that, at least, makes some sense, especially for the battery charge conductors. The pro techs in the shop are taught to measure everything with a meter anyway. Professional technicians should rarely trust or rely on color for the most part; especially when troubleshooting. Who knows what may have been modified or replaced beforehand! But I hear ya! At least black and white correlates to the AC wiring (black-hot, white-neutral) across the board.

Problematic Imported RV Tires

2011-05-10T03:00:00.000-07:00

We have a Keystone Laredo which came with Mission tires. Within three days we had two tires fail. One had a bubble and the other blew out five miles from home while heading to the mountains. It did damage the trailer. Tireco, (the parent company), will not cover the damage. They say the tire that blew had impact/road hazard damage. I don't believe this at all. We had 50% of the tires go bad on this RV in three days. They did pay for the bubbled tire. I see on the web that there are numerous complaints regarding these tires. Can you, or any reader give me information on these tires, or what recourse we have? Louise C., (Kernersville, NC)

Sorry to hear about your problems with the Mission tires Louise; you evidently are not alone. Check the size of your tires and see if they are on the formal Recall notice. There have been many reported problems with these imported tires; the blogs of full of comments regarding them. Here’s an article that was posted back in 2007 that you might find interesting.

According to some, it simply is not worth the risk to continue using a Mission tire. Most have simply switched to one of the better made US tires and have not looked back. I’ve not heard many positive comments regarding Tireco as well.

I wish I had better news for you, but from a safety perspective, it would be wise to simply replace all the Mission tires with a US-made tire. From my research, it is much better to be safe and absorb the cost than to risk damage or injury. If possible, save and store the old tires in case an opportunity for a rebate or refund becomes a reality.

Also, understand how vital it is to know the true weight each tire is actually carrying! Individual weight measurements taken at each tire position, using a certified scale, is the only, I repeat, the only way to know how much to inflate each tire. It's also the only way to know if an axle is overloaded to one side. The most common cause of tire failure in the RV industry is a combination of under-inflation and overloading. You must weigh it to know it! Regardless of the brand of tire.

I strongly suggest RVers everywhere contact the Recreation Vehicle Safety and Education Foundation (RVSEF) to inquire about their coach weighing schedule and other weight and safety educational products. RVSEF is the only independent facility fully endorsed by RVIA and RVDA. Visit them at: www.rvsafety.com.

5th Wheel Travel Trailers, Inverters and Generators

2011-05-02T21:41:00.000-07:00

Do fifth-wheel travel trailers have inverters? If they do not, then I need one with a generator, right? Robert P. (Avon, IN)

Robert, many 5th wheel travel trailers are indeed equipped with an inverter. In some cases, however, they may not power all 120-volt AC loads in the same manner as an on-board generator. Some trailers are equipped with both an inverter AND a generator. It just depends on that manufacturer. No hard and fast rule here...

Some inverters are not designed to handle some loads like a rooftop air conditioner for instance. My recommendation is to find the trailer you like, see how it is equipped and then upgrade as necessary depending on your planned use of the RV. Just about anything can be done in the aftermarket to upgrade just about any RV according to the owner's wishes! That's what's great about our aftermarket!

Just so you know, if you're going to purchase an aftermarket inverter, I always recommend investing in a true sine wave output inverter. Modified square wave inverters are more limiting than true sine wave inverters. You'll pay more up front, but with the technology today, the true sine wave output is just as smooth a waveform as electricity from the grid.

Likewise, some fivers are equipped with a generator. Of course, if you opt for a gasoline unit (vice propane), it will require extra space for a fuel tank too. You'll find AC generators on the larger units, but again, just about anything is possible in the aftermarket! Then again, it's not uncommon to find RVs sold without an inverter OR a generator. You want AC electricity? You'll have to plug into a shoreline source. Choose wisely, but remember, the aftermarket is a wonderful place!

Trashed RV Water Heater

2011-04-28T03:00:00.000-07:00

We just purchased a Mallard travel trailer and we realized its water is heated by propane and the unit looks shot, is there anyway to convert this to a water heater powered with electric? and about how much would that cost if we were to do something like that? Debby M. (Loudonville, OH)

Debby, indeed, replacement water heaters are available that come equipped with a 120-volt AC electric heating element. Both Atwood and Suburban offer a replacement model that will probably fit into the same space as your current heater. There’s really no way to “convert” an existing unit to accommodate an electric function. Even though aftermarket products are available, such as an add-on electric element, they are not recommended. The current models produced by both companies will typically include electric AND propane energy sources, however. You can probably find one at your local RV service center or accessory store or online quite easily. I'd go that route since you'd be getting a fresh warranty and with proper maintenance, it will last a very long time.

Damaged Hinge on RV Toilet

2011-04-27T03:00:00.000-07:00

The toilet seat hinge on one side is broken. Can it be replaced and how? A local shop said I'd have to replace the whole toilet. I sure hope not! Ed B. (Ft. Myers, FL)

Ed, in most cases, the toilet will not have to be completely replaced. The hinge can be replaced on many RV toilets, though it may entail replacing more than just the hinge. For example, on one model in the Aqua Magic line, the hinge is actually an integral component of the vacuum breaker assembly. So it all depends on the brand and model of your toilet. If you send me that information, I’ll be able to determine with better accuracy. But I’ll hazard an early guess that it is indeed possible.

Which Wires go Where? An RV Electrical Dilemma

2011-04-26T16:16:00.000-07:00

During my recovery from a heart attack, a good friend of mine disconnected the batteries, but failed to mark or tie together the wires that are connected to each of the positive and negative posts. Connecting the wiring harness is not a problem, but the 8 other wires attached to the batteries are a problem. How can I tell which wire's a positive and which are negative? No wiring drawings were ever provided by the manufacturer for this rig. I can't drive the rig to a repair center so all repairs must be done where I park the rig. So do you have any thoughts or ideas on what I can do solve this problem. Jack B. (Walnut Creek, CA)

Jack, sorry to hear about your battery wiring issues as well as your heart attack. I’m hoping you are on the mend and will be ready to get RVing again. Unfortunately, without actually “ringing” out each wire with an ohmmeter, it will be difficult to determine exactly which wires connect where. Some manufacturers use a color code, such as red for a hot wire, white or green for a ground wire, but there’s no telling what your manufacturer actually did. A good RV service technician, certified or master certified, should be able to effectively trace each wire to its ultimate destination. Since you can’t drive the vehicle as is, your best bet is to locate a certified mobile technician in your area. Unfortunately, I do not have one to recommend to you, but any good RV tech should be able to make a few measurements on the remaining conductors and determine if they are positive or negative.

Wish I had better news, but it takes an in-person, eyes-on approach to truly find the correct wiring configuration. You certainly do not want to try the “spark” method.

RV Holding Tank Crack

2011-04-19T03:00:00.000-07:00

We bought a new Keystone fifth wheel toy hauler about a year and a half ago. It went out of warranty after one year and now I have my grey water tank leaking badly when it is almost full. It is the tank for the shower and vanity. I removed a section of panel under the unit to see if the tank could be repaired from underneath. I have access to the tank from under the unit and found a crack along the top edge of the tank and repaired it but it still leaks really bad when it is almost full. It appears to be coming from on top of the tank. Can the tank be removed from under the unit by cutting the drain coming down into the tank and disconnecting the dump valve and the sensor wiring? It seems that if I remove a steel brace the tank rests on it should lower down underneath. There are four screws holding the brace the tank rests on. It doesn't look as though the tank is screwed into the brace anywhere so should it just lower down so I can see where the leak is and repare or replace the tank if necessary. It seems as though the fifth wheel was built over the tanks and they could only be removed from under the unit. Any help would be appreciated before I do something that could be costly to reverse. John C. (Roaring Spring, PA)

John, yes, according the Standard for Recreation Vehicles, NFPA 1192, all holding tanks are to be installed in a manner that makes them accessible and removable in the field; even if you have to do a little digging to get to it. Removing that steel support brace after disconnecting each of the drains entering the top of the tank as well as the vent, (also required), should allow that grey tank to be removed. At the outlet of the tank, simple remove the waste valve by removing the four bolts at the termination assembly. I probably don’t need to remind you to perform these steps after the tank has been evacuated, flushed and drained again!

In some cases, access to the drain piping and vent pipe can be accomplished inside one of the interior cabinets. Simply cut through the ABS piping, near the floor, using a hacksaw. When reinstalling, simply glue an ABS coupling to rejoin the pieces.

Keep in mind, once you assess the crack, that the only permanent repair to a plastic holding tank is by plastic welding. Patch kits, although readily available in the aftermarket, should be considered a temporary repair only. Only by plastic welding can a tank be permanently repaired, so look for a shop or dealer with experience using a plastic welding machine. If no shop in your area performs this service, I do have a Plastic Welding instructional videotape available if your shop is interested.

If the crack is severe or located in an area under stress, it may be more practical to replace the tank. You’ll have to contact your selling dealer or Keystone in order to obtain the correct, exact replacement. In some cases, holding tank replacements are better left to the pro technicians, but in some cases, an RV handyperson with adequate tools and an understanding of RV waste plumbing, repairs and replacements can be an alternate consideration.

RV Refrigerator Repair

2011-04-18T17:39:00.000-07:00

I've got an old Dutchman travel trailer and have a problem with the Dometic fridge. The spark ignitor wire for the propane burner either went bad and shorted out against the aluminum tube that feeds the burner, or the aluminum developed a pinhole in it and burned the wire, not sure what happened first. I've already replaced the ignitor wire and now need to replace the tubing. Can I replace it with copper tubing? Or do I need to replace it with aluminum again? Ken R. (Dekalb, IL)

Ken, in all instances of internal appliance component replacement, it is always prudent to use like components. In your case, it’s best to have your service shop order the exact replacement part for that propane tubing. Chances are it is a metric size and it might be difficult to located metric copper tubing. And then flaring or double-flaring (depending on the model), creates another stop-gap. It is much easier to order the part and simply replace, like for like.

Keep in mind, whenever any propane line is disconnected, a timed pressure leak test must be performed. And since yours is an older unit, it might be a good idea to have a regulator lock-up test performed and the delivery line pressure calibrated as well. Typically, these are best left to a Certified or Master Certified technician since it requires specialty devices and exact procedures.

RV Labels Needed - Update!

2011-04-09T11:00:00.000-07:00

Where can I buy peel & stick labels for the outside of the motorhome to identify the types of services, i.e., fuel fill, black water outlet, grey water outlet, freshwater inlet, battery, accessories, etc? Bob B. (Surrey, BC)

Typically, RVers will usually make their own labels for the various compartments, nooks and storage areas on their coach when necessary, Bob. In some cases, labels affixed by the original RV manufacturer can sometimes be found at a selling dealer for that brand of motorhome.

However, I did find a thread in an online RV forum here that may be helpful. It seems like the respondents there were of like mind!

But other than the original manufacturer or a dealer, I’m not aware of any aftermarket sites that sell those types of labels; sorry. Perhaps one of our readers has another suggestion.

UPDATE! After Bob's question appeared on RVdoctor.com, one company, The Master's Edge, in East Berlin, PA, offered their expertise for any RVer needing new compartment labeling or other graphics for their RVs. Feel free to visit their website to see if they may be of assistance. Gary Bloomfield of The Master's Edge, works with RV dealers providing striping and other graphics as needed.

Are Surge Protectors Needed in RVs?

2011-04-06T11:29:00.000-07:00

We loved your seminars at the Seattle RV show! I have a diesel Winnebago motorhome. A friend told me about how his 120-volt appliances in his RV fried at a campground in AK. He said a surge protector probably would have prevented a huge bill to replace what was destroyed. I have been looking at them, specifically the portable 30-amp model from TRC. Portable because I can take it with me when I sell the motorhome at some later date. Is it a good idea to have a surge protector and is the TRC a good one?

Also what are your thoughts on extended service plans? I have been looking at the Good Sam Gold extended service plan. My coach is fairly new but with no extended warranty and if I had major repairs done on the drive train or systems it could be a very big expense. Are there plans by other providers that I can make comparisons with before I commit? Jim G. (Seattle, WA)

Jim, thanks for attending the seminars at the Seattle Show! Good to have you there! I indeed, heartily recommend a surge protector for RVs. I tend to the favor those that are hard-wired into the AC system, but that’s just a personal preference. Certainly the portable, in-line type is just as effective. I’ve not personally tested the TRC unit but have heard good things about it. My hope is to A/B a few different models and publish the results when I can find the time!

Surge protectors act like an electrical sponge of sorts, absorbing excess voltage, thereby protecting the coach. RV surge protection should include the ability to completely shut off the incoming power before damaging transients can reach sensitive equipment. Additionally, they should have the capability to monitor and detect high and low voltage conditions and to interrupt the incoming power until the system has returned to safer levels over a period of time.

Most surge protectors utilize MOVs, (Metal Oxide Varistors) to protect against transients voltages. The quality devices usually have a minimum of three MOVs in the circuitry. More sophisticated protectors, such that might be used in the computer industry, have what is called sine wave tracking which actually tracks the incoming AC signal and literally cuts off the top portion of the wave. It provides better protection for highly sensitive equipment. The key to this technology is determined by the “clamping voltage rating” also called the “let-through voltage rating.” The lower the rating, the better the protection. Sine wave tracking protectors have a remarkably tight clamping voltage surrounding the incoming power line sine wave.

Some companies extol the Joule Rating of their surge protection device. A “joule” is a measurement of energy that indicates the amount of energy that a device is capable of absorbing. The joule rating is primarily determined by the total number of MOVs in the device. Unfortunately, there is no standard for measuring the joule rating of surge suppressors that I am aware of, but generally those with a higher rating are considered better. It is felt by many in the surge protection business that the joule rating of a surge suppressor is less important than the “let-through voltage” rating. Underwriters Laboratories, (UL), has, however, developed a minimum standard for spike suppressors. The surge protector you choose to install in your RV should meet or exceed the requirements of UL 1449.

As for extended service plans....I really have no idea. I wish I had the time to look into such plans, but unfortunately, do not. But I've heard it's best to try and look past the marketing hype and determine just exactly what is, and what is not, covered. I know the wording in the contract can be tricky. Probably best to focus on what is NOT covered and see if it will work for you. Perhaps some of our readers will chime in with info on extended service contracts they've had success with; if so, I'll forward them on to you.

No Voltage Output from RV Generator

2011-03-31T14:09:00.000-07:00

We own an older (1990's) motorhome with an Onan generator (gas). We are ready to go away in a couple weeks, so I started to check everything. The generator is running fine but is not putting out power. There is a junction box right next to the generator where I opened it while it was running and no power was present there. Is there anything else I can check? The nearest Onan repair shop is 50 miles away! Bill D. (Williamstown, NJ)

Bill, if you cannot measure the generator voltage at that first junction box, chances are the output voltage is not even leaving the generator itself. Basically, everything on the coach is now isolated. Depending on the year of the generator, you might see two small, pop-out circuit breakers (see photo), on the side of the control box. Chances are they are in the popped out, or tripped, position. Try pushing them both in and see if you then have any voltage to the RV. Be sure all loads inside the coach are turned off prior to resetting the breakers on the generator. If the integral generator breakers are not the issue, then there could be an internal problem in the generator. If you still have no output power whatsoever, send me the model number and spec number from the data plate on the generator and I'll dig a little deeper, but I'd wager, it's the circuit breakers.

One caution! In the future, do not open any junction box or electrical panel while the generator is running or the shoreline cord is connected to shore power! Always disconnect or disable all 120-volt AC producing components before gaining access to any electrical connection.

RV Holding Tank Removal

2011-03-25T09:25:00.000-07:00

I need to remove my black holding tank off of a 29-foot Class C motorhome with a slideout. How do you remove the RV plumping from tank? One RV person tried telling me you have to bust it out and replace it with a new tank. This make no sense to me. What can be done and how do you do it? Crawford O. (Dandridge, TN)

Crawford, I'm thinking your RV person is not familiar with the NFPA 1192, Standard for Recreation Vehicles. According to the code, all holding tanks must be removable. That alone, does not mean it’s an easy job. It simply requires manufacturers to make it possible for the tanks to be removed even if it means removing other components first. I go into detail about the procedures in my RV Owner’s Handbook. Unfortunately, it’s too much information to include in an email response, but be assured, it does not have to be busted out piece by piece.

First verify that the tank actually requires a total replacement. Plastic holding tanks can be successfully welded if cracked. Only when completely destroyed or damaged beyond repair does it actually need to be replaced. I'd "remove and replace" only as a last resort. Here's the bottom line if it does have to come out...

The tank vent and toilet drain enter the holding tank from the top and the drain outlet exits at the lowest portion of the tank. In some cases, the vent can be cut with a hacksaw or disconnected from inside the cabinetry. The toilet simply unbolts from the floor flange, then the flange (which may be connected to the tank in a variety of ways), is simply removed from the top of the tank. The same for the drain outlet on the holding tank itself. It will ultimately terminate and connect with the other holding tank at a location near the left rear side of the coach. All termination valves are removable so you simply remove that pipe and valve associated with the tank in question and reverse the process for installation.

Wish I could provide more clear-cut instructions, but without seeing the actual installation it’s nigh impossible to respond fully. But I hope this little bit will help!

Unintentional Keyless RV Entry

2011-03-25T09:04:00.000-07:00

I bought an older, 1978 Coachman travel trailer which had no keys available for the compartments or entry door. How do I pop out the plastic key bolt mechanism without damaging the bolt or the RV?And what about the entry door? How can I break in to my own RV? Nikki N. (Breck, TX)

Nikki, you could always call a local locksmith to open the entry door lock to at least gain access to the interior, but this may come with a hefty fee for a mobile service call. Back in the 70s, I know for a fact that just about all entry door lock assemblies and compartment locks had master keys that literally opened all of them. At that time, there were only two or three different compartment lock manufacturers and each brand only had a few key combinations for all locks; supposedly to keep the honest people out! But most created a master key for use by dealers. My suggestion would be to try to find an RV dealer who was around back then. Chances are one of the service technicians will have a set of master keys for that vintage. Once opened, replacement locks are readily available in the aftermarket.

Also, some the lesser expensive, plastic compartment locks can simply be twisted open with a pair of channel-locs or pliers, though this tactic does risk some damage to the compartment door. I'd check first with a dealer and see if he has a set of master keys.

Water Pump Installation Down Under - Literally!

2011-03-10T14:04:00.000-08:00

When installing an RV pump, can it it be fitted upside down under the floor of an off-road caravan? The caravan can be subjected to water and dirt so will have some degree of exposure. Mark B. (Dandenong, Victoria Australia)

Mark, though the typical RV water pump can be installed in a number of configurations, upside-down and exposed to the elements are, unfortunately, not included among them. Now it might be possible to mount it upside-down if the pump can be protected from dirt, moisture and debris; especially on an off-road vehicle. It would most certainly have to be bolted rather than attached by screws. But I believe I’d do my best to locate the pump inside the caravan, especially if colder temperatures are expected. Perhaps a storage box of some sort can be installed through a sidewall under a cabinet? But exposure to dirt, moisture and freezing temperatures should be avoided.

Improper Installation of RV Roof

2011-03-10T13:57:00.000-08:00

I recently had my rubber roof replaced on my Class C, 22-foot motorhome. The rubber was still good but getting old. But because the old plywood was bonded to foam insulation, they put plywood over it and installed the new rubber roof. Within four months the plywood under the rubber warped really bad. They say they will fix it under warranty but I was curious as to how they do this as it seems the plywood didn't hold the first time around. It's been in the shop over two weeks now and I cannot find anything out yet. How will they attempt to solve this problem? BMCM, (FL)

It’s difficult to ascertain just how they installed that new substrate plywood to the older roof. Hopefully, they removed the rubber membrane, inspected the older substrate plywood for damage, then glued and screwed the new plywood directly to the old plywood after properly preparing it. The condition of the old plywood is crucial. If they attached the new wood to a deteriorated or moisture-damaged substrate, it’s possible the new plywood would buckle in places. It sounds like this may be the case.

They will have to remove the new membrane and the new plywood and thoroughly inspect the old substrate to determine the best course of action before continuing. It is salvageable for sure, but to avoid future issues, it must be done correctly this time. I would also insist on a new membrane. Once they remove the rubber from the new plywood, it will have stretched and been rendered unusable.

Let me know how it turns out. It’s great that they will at least honor their warranty! But they must prepare the old roof properly prior to installing the new roof substrate and EPDM membrane.

RV Holding Tank Evacuations Optimized!

2011-03-01T14:54:00.000-08:00

When you are at a campground that has a sewer hook up and you are only going to be there over the weekend, should you leave your tank closed and dump when you get ready to leave or can you leave it open and just clean up? Pam S. (Waco, TX)

Pam, in order to practice optimum waste management, it is always best to keep both holding tank valves fully closed until the tanks are as full as possible. Most experts recommend at least 3/4 full. If you do not fill it to that level during the course of a weekend, it’s still best to fill them with fresh water to at least the 3/4 mark (completely full is best), before evacuating. There’s a couple of reasons for this. The fuller the tank, the more velocity you’ll have during the evacuation which helps to completely flush all the contents; especially for the solid waste tank. Plus it gives the through-the-wall monitor probes a better chance of staying cleaner. The sludge/tissue/residue on the sides of the tank are less likely to dry out and become rigidly stuck when you fill each tank almost full prior to evacuating.

Another reason for closing the valves, specifically the liquid tank valve, is to avoid your RV becoming a virtual vent for the septic system of the campground itself. See my explanation under number 3 below. If you happen to have an internal venting problem or dried out P-traps within your RV, odors can further proliferate.

Here’s a proper dumping procedure that was recently featured in an article I wrote for FMC Magazine.

Correct Waste System Evacuation Procedures
1. Always wear disposable protective gloves when handling any waste system component and be sure to wash your hands thoroughly afterward.

2. Connect the sewer hose. Begin by inserting the nozzle end of the hose into the campground sewer inlet or dump site, and open the valve on the nozzle. Walk back towards the termination assembly on the coach extending the hose only the distance required. Always avoid snaking a full-length hose back and forth on the ground. If more hose is needed to reach the coach, simply attach an extension hose when necessary. All quality hose makers will have extension hoses and connectors. To complete the connection, remove the protective cap or plug on the motorhome end and attach it to the termination outlet. Be sure to maintain the proper slope of the drain hose from the termination outlet to the sewer inlet.

Known as the “first in - last out” rule, inserting the sewer end first and removing it last will guarantee no release of waster water and avoid further contamination on the ground. Note: this is only applicable if the hose has a positive shut-off valve on the sewer end and a cap or plug on the coach end.

3. Only evacuate a holding tank (black or gray) when it is over 3/4 full. Yes, contrary to what some veteran RVers may tell you, this means leaving the gray valve fully closed while in the campground. Filling each tank to a level above the 3/4 mark before evacuating will ensure you’ll have enough volume (and velocity), to thoroughly drain the tank and flush the hose.

Here’s another reason for keeping the gray holding tank valve completely closed except during evacuation. Ever walk through a beautiful, scenic campground and catch a whiff of sewer odor wafting through the park? Kinda ruins the moment, right? All coaches with the gray tank valve in the open position (sewer hoses obviously connected), are simply acting as a direct conduit to the park’s sewer system. Each coach becomes a mini-vent of sorts, in parallel with the septic system of that campground. No wonder sewer odors still abound in the nicest of destination sites.

Follow the logic; a large septic system in a campground will have fundamental venting designed into it, but with numerous RVs connected to that system with their gray tank valves open, odors can rise up through the park’s septic system, through the sewer hoses of those coaches, through their empty gray holding tanks and up the vents of those holding tanks. Remember, it may be your gray tank, but it’s the campground’s black and gray odors coming up and through it. The only problem with this scenario is that the gray tank vents on the RVs are a lot closer to the ground and more prominently located than the park sewer stack so odors are more noticeable. By keeping the gray tank valve closed until the tank is almost full, you will eliminate the localized venting of the campground sewer gasses at your particular site. The more RVers who follow this precept, the less likely we’ll have to endure septic odors in and around the campsite.

4. Evacuate the black tank first. This is pretty much standard procedure and something most all coach owners are aware of, but it’s worthy to mention it again.

After the black tank empties flush it out with a large amount of fresh water when connected to city water. Simply keep flushing the toilet while the termination valve remains open. If you opt for the Polychute or Drainmaster hose, monitor the cleanliness of the water through the integral Clear-Vu fitting as it drains. There are other clear fittings available for the bayonet-type hose adapters as well. When the draining water is relatively clear, stop flushing, close the gate valve and cover the bottom of the black tank completely with fresh water.

Permanently installed holding tank spray kits are available in the aftermarket that attach to each holding tank thereby allowing fresh water to be directly induced into the tank after dumping, but I’m hesitant to drill mounting holes into holding tanks. Plus I like to flush all components of the waste system including the toilet, sink drains, etc., so I prefer to simply flush the toilet and run water through the sinks.

5. Evacuate the gray tank last. After the black tank has completely emptied and its termination valve properly closed, open the gray tank valve and empty that holding tank. Be sure to rinse this tank as well. Dumping the gray tank last utilizes its liquid contents, as well as the fresh water induced after dumping, to help wash away any solid waste that may remain in the sewer hose.

6. Drain the sewer hose. After both tanks have been emptied for the last time at that location, take the time to thoroughly rinse the sewer hose with fresh water until clear water is viewed through the Clear-Vu fitting on the sewer hose. After closing the gray termination valve, remove the sewer hose from the termination outlet on the motorhome and, if so equipped, secure the plug to the hose and the termination outlet. Then begin “milking the hose.” In other words, raise the hose at the coach end and walk it towards the sewer inlet. Keep raising the hose as you walk, thereby “milking” the hose and emptying it completely of water. Even a properly sloped flexible sewer hose may have residual water and waste particles left inside. These particles will become an odor generator over time, so it is imperative to completely remove as much moisture as possible.

7. After milking the hose and as you reach the campground sewer inlet connection, close the positive shut-off valve on the sewer nozzle and disconnect it from the campground sewer inlet. Remember the “first in - last out” rule! With the cap on the coach end and the nozzle valve turned off on the sewer end, all remaining odors stay inside the hose. Cap the sewer inlet and then stow the hose and add an enzyme-based additive to all holding tanks.

8. Check the P-traps. Unless you upgrade to HepvO waterless sanitary valves, every month or so, look down each sink drain and the tub/shower drain to ensure the water seal is still there. In some waste system configurations, a quickly draining tank can actually cause the water lock to be siphoned out of the trap. You’ll probably have to use a flashlight, but it is essential that a water lock remain at all times. Remember, this is the primary method of preventing gray holding tank odors from entering the interior of the coach. Bottom line; a dry P-trap is nothing more than a shortcut for odors to gain entry into the motorhome.

9. Be sure the toilet bowl contains water at all times. If water eventually seeps past the seal and the toilet bowl empties, it’s time to make an appointment at your local service center. An empty toilet bowl will permit black tank odors into the coach. If water can leak past the seal, odors can also!

Product Spotlight: Xantrex Truecharge2 Battery Charger

2011-03-01T14:17:00.000-08:00

By Gary Bunzer

One of the most popular seminars that I present at RV shows, conventions and rallies is entitled, “Optimizing the 12-volt Battery System.” It’s been a topic that undergoes frequent updating as new technology comes to the fore or as new problems arise within the DC systems found on today’s recreation vehicles. Clearly 80-90% of the questions sent to the RV Doctor Column are electrical in nature, so it’s no surprise one of the biggest challenges facing RVers today is maintaining a healthy battery system; what I call, battery optimization.

In my “Optimizing….” Seminar, I advocate having the ability to carry as much current-carrying capacity that space permits and that your wallet can endure. One can never have too much battery current on hand to power the DC components found in the modern RV. And there are many! Typically, all lamps, fans, slideouts, water pump, leveling jacks and electronic ignition appliances, among other devices, rely heavily on a hefty 12-volt battery system in order to operate at their optimum. A healthy battery system is a mandate in most applications, so having as many batteries as possible should be a good thing, right?

What some RVers often forget, is that adding more batteries to become more self-sufficient (especially when dry camping), is only half of the equation. Yeah, it’s great to be able to have lots of amps at your beck and call, but it’s just as important, if not more so, to be able to properly replenish that battery bank in order to take advantage of having those extra amps available. And that’s the rub.

Along with simply adding batteries to the bank, one must also consider how to be able to fully charge that larger depository without risking damage to the batteries. The more current you store, the more important it becomes having the proper charging methodology on hand to safely charge any battery bank. One way is to replace the stock engine alternator with one of a higher output capability to help charge the house batteries while driving down the road. The other is to ensure the inverter or converter is sized appropriately and designed properly to fully charge the battery system without an inherent danger of overcharging when connected to shore power.

But the typical converter/charger installed by the coach manufacturer will not likely be able to properly charge the complete system in a timely fashion. Because of the proliferation of 12-volt DC accoutrements, many converter/chargers are undersized for the task as they leave the factory, even before adding additional batteries to the equation. And that’s when I start seeing an increase in emails to the RV Doctor Column. Dear Gary, my furnace will not ignite but the fan comes on; my generator will crank, but not start; my slideout moves very slowly and stops before retracting all the way; my water pressure is too low at the lavatory faucets; my hydraulic jacks will not level the coach. These and a few hundred other symptoms can be caused by a faulty battery system; specifically, low voltage at the batteries.

Many converter/chargers installed in some RVs seemingly are designed to never overcharge the batteries since that condition leads to a plethora of issues. That’s the good news. The bad news is that many of these same converter/chargers are not designed to be able to fully charge the batteries either; at least in a timely manner and some are simply not capable of fully charging a large battery bank efficiently at all. Some even have the predilection to overcharge the batteries.

That said, most modern RV converter/chargers are typically great converters, simply poor battery chargers. Their main job is to convert 120-volt AC electricity into 12-volt DC electricity since most every convenience on a contemporary coach is powered or controlled by DC. And most do that gallantly depending on the type of converter. Their shortfall is clearly with the battery charging capability. It’s my opinion the committed RVer truly requires a dedicated battery charger; one designed with the health of the batteries in mind.

Since no two RV battery systems are identical; varying loads, different types and number of batteries, length of conductors, etc., how can one be sure the batteries will be charged completely and effectively in the shortest amount of time? As I’ve often stated in my seminars, thank goodness for the aftermarket! Read on.

The term “smart charger” has been around for a few years now, but what does that really mean? Do they embody some type of intelligence? Well, in a manner of speaking they do. A true smart charger is controlled by an internal microprocessor, it has multiple stages of charging procedures, it can operate under varying AC input voltages, it employs temperature compensation and has safeguards against overcharging as an inherent characteristic. All this and more can be found in the serious RVer’s newest best friend, the Xantrex Truecharge2 battery charger.

The Truecharge2 is the newest version in the Truecharge line. Available in 20, 40 and 60-amp outputs, the Truecharge2 just might be the answer to quite of few of those RV Doc questions. In fact, I know that to be true in many cases. Not only is the Truecharge2 processor-controlled and features either two or three-stage charging, it also contains battery charging algorhythms (customized charging procedures) for multiple battery types. Here’s the key difference between a mediocre charging/converter and a thoughtfully designed smart charger; the typical charging/converter has only one type of charging sequence (based on voltage and current flow), regardless of the “type” of battery it is charging. And please realize not all 12-volt batteries are created equal.

I won’t bore you with all the specifications regarding the various types, (you’ll have to attend my seminar for that much detail), but suffice it to say there are many different types of batteries designed with different technologies and chemical make-up found in recreation vehicles:

· Flooded, wet cell (lead-acid) batteries

· AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries

· GEL batteries

· RV/Marine batteries (considered a hybrid type)

· Automotive cranking batteries

· True deep cycle industrial/commercial batteries

· Sealed, maintenance-free batteries (lead-calcium)

In order to become optimized, the different types of batteries require varying levels of voltage and amperage delivered over specific time frames. In other words, a one-size-fits-all battery charger will result in a less-than-optimized DC power source. Thankfully, the Truecharge2 battery charger allows the user to choose the type of battery bank being charged. It is compatible with flooded, GEL, AGM and lead-calcium batteries. (There is also a “custom setting” for specially designed algorhythms programmed by Xantrex for specific applications).

This assures the optimum amount of current, pushed by the correct amount of voltage over the proper amount of time (based on that battery’s current state of charge and temperature), is delivered to that bank. Bingo! Battery optimization! The charging sequence is designed specifically for that battery type. The fear of over-charging the battery bank is eliminated altogether.

Another key to proper battery optimization is multi-stage charging. The three charging stages produced by the Truecharge2 are:

· Bulk stage

· Absorption stage

· Float stage

A fourth available process, Equalization, is applicable to liquid-filled batteries only (flooded lead-acid and lead-calcium). Another nice function of the Truecharge2 is the ability of the user to choose between three-stage charging and two-stage charging (eliminating the Float stage).

During the Bulk stage, the charger delivers its maximum current output in a constant fashion; full amps flowing into the battery bank. All batteries store current, measured in amps. Once the battery voltage reaches a pre-set point (remember, it’s a different requirement for each of the battery types), it switches to the Absorption stage.

In the Absorption stage, the Truecharge2 holds the voltage steady at a set rate as the current flow lessens. Once the battery reaches its gassing threshold, (again, a different voltage level for each type of battery), the charger switches to the Float stage.

During the Float stage, the Truecharge2 delivers a lesser amount of voltage to maintain the battery bank in a charged condition until the bank voltage drops below 12.5 volts for about fifteen minutes. Then it awakens and enters the Bulk stage and the process continues.

I’m often asked if it’s permissible to leave the RV plugged into shore power during lengthy periods of non-use. I usually warn against such a practice primarily because it’s likely the battery bank will be over-charged by a typically mediocre converter/charger at some point and literally boil the electrolyte out of the batteries. Over-charging a flooded, wet cell battery (lead-acid and lead-calcium) produces dangerous gasses containing hydrogen and oxygen. I’ve personally witnessed exploding batteries in the shop during an improper charging cycle; it ain’t pretty (see my sidebar note below).

With the Truecharge2, the over-charging concern mentioned above is totally eliminated. Under normal circumstance (the absence of 12-volt DC anomalies), it is now possible to leave the RV plugged into shore power continuously, even without adult supervision. Here’s why, once the battery bank enters the Float stage and no 12-volt device is energized, it will stay in float for seven days or until the voltage falls below 12.5 volts for fifteen minutes. Assuming nothing is draining amperage out of the battery bank, after the seventh day, the Truecharge2 again begins its charging algorhythm anew, just to keep the batteries refreshed. Because of the integral design principles, the proper charging sequence remains in effect for as long as the Truecharge2 is powered by the 120-volt AC electrical supply.

One of the advanced features of the Truecharge2 is the inclusion of proper charging sequences based on the temperature of the battery. Though it is offered as an option, I highly recommend the installation of the Xantrex Battery Temperature Sensor (BTS). The importance of battery temperature is reinforced by virtually all battery experts even when measuring the Specific Gravity of each cell in a flooded battery. That’s why it is advisable to always use a temperature compensated hydrometer. So it is when charging a battery bank.

The Truecharge2 employs manual temperature settings if a BTS is not installed. And its importance cannot be overstated. A manually chosen incorrect temperature setting may cause the battery bank to be overcharged. The addition of the BTS, as part of the installation, will eliminate that concern. Temperature compensation is applied according to the following ranges:

· Cold - battery temperature below 41-degress F.

· Warm - battery temperature between 41 and 86-degrees F.

· Hot - battery temperature above 86-degrees F.

With multiple batteries in a single bank, always install the BTS to the battery that is typically the warmest. All batteries in the same bank will be charged according to the temperature of the warmest battery.

Long considered a design fault with the typical converter/charger is the fact that it can only charge one battery bank. Usually only the house batteries receive a positive charge when connected to shore power in the typical RV. In a motorhome application, the engine battery only receives a charge via the engine alternator when driving down the highway. Taking into consideration the normal current draw on batteries in a static situation (parasitic drains), the motorhome engine battery often goes dead during lengthy stays in one location. Not so with the Truecharge2. In fact, it is designed with three separate charging outputs. (The third output may be utilized for a dedicated generator-starting battery). Now, both (or all three) battery banks can be safely charged whenever 120-volts AC electricity is available.

This eliminates the necessity of those dreaded “Emergency Start” solenoid switches found on some motorized RVs. I’ve been railing against them for decades. It is simply detrimental when two individually designed (drastically different) and totally separated battery banks are, all of a sudden, linked in parallel. With the push of a momentary switch, the two battery banks instantaneously become one big battery bank. The massive transfer of energy from the charged bank into the dead battery can damage internal plates, create excessive heat and cause accelerated sulfation in some batteries; none of which is a good thing (remember…the key word is optimization; that which is best!).

Whenever energized, the Truecharge2 charges all battery banks at the same time, but the most-drained battery bank receives the biggest charge first. This is determined by the unit’s built-in battery qualification sequence. Whenever 120-volts AC first powers the Truecharge2, it goes through a complete battery evaluation to determine which of the batteries is most in need of replenishment. So, if an RVer stays in one campground for a long time, he can be assured the engine starting battery will be up to snuff and should never have to be interconnected with the house battery ever again. The battery qualification sequence can be manually induced at any time, by the way, by simply removing the Truecharge2 from the AC source until all the indicators on the unit have gone dark. Then simply plug it back in. Each charging circuit is protected by a separate 30-amp fuse inside the Truecharge2.

Every RVer who has ever experienced less-than-stellar performances from the stock converter/charger should seriously consider adding the Truecharge2 to the 12-volt DC battery systems. This will help optimize the systems by allowing the converter to simply convert and the Truecharge2 to be the dedicated battery charger for all the batteries on the RV.

In order to function properly, the Truecharge2 must be “sized” appropriately for the task at hand. The user will have to determine how large all the battery banks are combined and then choose the correct DC output model to properly charge that bank. The minimum requirements are:

Truecharge2 (12-volt Models) Minimum Battery Bank Size

20-amp (TC2012) 40 amps

40-amp (TC4012) 80 amps

60-amp (TC6012) 120 amps

I’ve installed the Truecharge2, complete with its comprehensive remote panel, in a motorhome and will be evaluating its performance over the course of a full RVing season. I’ll be posting updates as well as installation photos in the coming weeks and months as a follow-up to this RV Doctor Product Spotlight, so stay tuned! And remember, RVing is more than a hobby, it’s a lifestyle!

Sidebar Note:

The danger of battery explosions is very real concerning flooded lead-acid batteries. I tell this true story to my RV students to drive home the importance of practicing correct safety precautions while working on or charging RV batteries.

I was a working as a flat rate service technician at a large dealership that sold a very nice, elegant motorhome line. One of my shopmates was in the process of (incorrectly) charging a big 8D battery located in a side compartment of the motorhome. The compartment door was hinged on top. He had it flipped up and latched with two latches. The 8D battery was in a convenient slideout tray. Larry had the tray halfway slid out, battery caps off the cells and a healthy dose of current being pumped into it. Actually too much current as the battery was definitely gassing as it charged. Unfortunately, he had only latched one of the two latches and when he accidentally bumped that compartment door…you see it coming right? The aluminum-bottomed door fell across the two terminals on the battery and that big 8D battery literally exploded, spraying Larry and everything nearby with sulphuric acid. Thankfully he did not get acid in his eyes, but we never did find the majority of his right thumb. Safety is paramount when working on or near RV batteries! Never compromise the safety factor! ‘Nuff said!

Motorhome Windshield Sealant Sought

2011-02-22T18:04:00.000-08:00

We have a 32' HR (Monaco) Ambassador. It has a two-piece windshield. The windshields leak at the top intersection of the windshield pieces. It is not a major leak but I would like to prevent any water from getting inside. Could you give me the name of a windshield sealant to address a slight leak in the front windshield of our motorhome? What about silicone? Mike & Joanne H.

Silicone sealants are generally classified as acid-curing or moisture-curing. Acid-curing sealants are the most common as you’ll find them in the big box stores. However, these materials are considered somewhat low-performance. They're likely to not provide satisfactory results for the temperature extremes or weather that a typical motorhome may travel through. A better choice is a commercial-grade, moisture-curing silicone sealant, in a low to medium viscosity such as Dow 790. I’ve also had good luck with Permatex 81730 Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer in most cases. In some rare instances, it is a little too runny. It all depends on the curvatures of the windshield and just where the leak is entering. I’d probably try the Permatex first and then look for the Dow 790 if it doesn’t work.

AGM Batteries for Motorhome

2011-02-17T03:00:00.000-08:00

I'm thinking my coach batteries may need replacing within the year. I asked my RV dealer whether AGM batteries are a good idea. Currently it has the older flooded cell type that came from factory, (two chassis batteries and three house batteries). The answer I got from my dealer was to stick with the technology it came with and not switch to AGMs. Just so you know, I have a 2004 motorhome with a three-stage charger. I’d be interested in your comments and advice. Also, we enjoyed your TV show. Any chance of hosting another one? Jon, (no city/state)

My comment Jon, (since you asked), is that I’m guessing your dealer does not sell AGM batteries but does sell flooded, wet cell batteries. My advice? Well I’m a strong proponent of the AGM technology. And since today’s motorhomes are so DC voltage dependent, I’m also in favor of having as much DC current on-board as possible, regardless of battery type. But I can just as easily argue for wet-cell technology as well.

Here are some arguments for switching to AGM batteries. First, they are highly resistant to vibration and shock; a plus for RV applications when you consider the jostling and bouncing the motorhome does on the road. Their recombinant gases are effective to about 99%. What this means is that the hydrogen and oxygen are recombined inside the battery safely within each cell. Ever notice the bubbling and off-gassing of a lead-acid battery while under a severe charge? Most AGM batteries vent hydrogen vapors at less than 2%, where 4.1% is needed to support flammability in air.

The inherently low internal resistance of an AGM battery is another welcomed benefit to RVers who store their motorhomes part of the year. According to one maker, during storage, the self-discharge rate of an AGM battery is 3 to 10 times better than a gel battery and almost 50 times better than a typical flooded lead-acid battery. The reason is because the electrolyte is not liquefied, but rather absorbed into a floss-like glass matting. AGM batteries also deliver and receive current much faster and at the higher rates available today. Your three-stage charger will suffice nicely and adapt well for AGM batteries. As an example, AGM batteries can be charged 10 times faster than a same-rated gel battery and 5 times as fast as a like-sized flooded lead acid battery.

Because AGM battery technology permits more positive plate material to be saturated by the absorbed mats in each cell, there is an automatic increase in the battery’s capacity in virtually every area. More life cycles, reduced internal resistances, higher amp-hour rating in some cases, more reserve capacity and deeper depth of discharge cycles are some of the improvements over other types of sealed, lead-oxide batteries.

Yeah, I like ‘em! So if your wallet can endure and you consider yourself a “serious” RVer, then I’d truly consider the upgrade when it’s time to replace your existing batteries.

Thanks for the comments regarding the television show. Currently we are ready to go with a brand new TV show, but we are awaiting sponsorships from the manufacturers and campgrounds. I’m thinking it will be a long wait, given the state of the industry right now. But we are set to go as soon as the advertising dollars can be raised.

Two Motorhome Air Conditioners

2011-02-16T14:47:00.000-08:00

I have an older Pace Arrow that has two roof air conditioning units. The front air conditioner will not run (fan or compressor) on shore power. When I start the generator the front unit will work as normal. Any suggestions? Lost for answers! B., (Aiken, SC)

Well Bruce, it’s apparent your motorhome is equipped with only a 30-amp shoreline service. Having a 30-amp limitation basically means that you can only operate one air conditioner at a time while connected to shore power. The reason for this is that, on your Pace Arrow, each air conditioner must be on it’s own, separate 20-amp breaker. So in order to operate all the other 120-volt AC accouterments, you’re limited to only one roof air at a time. It’s simply basic math.

However, there should be a set of switches somewhere inside your motorhome, (some technicians call them either/or switches), that allow you to choose between the front or rear air conditioner while connected to shore power. The generator, however, is sized large enough to handle both air conditioners at the same time. One air conditioner is hard-wired directly to the generator. On shore power, you must choose which A/C you want to operate. The switches can also be configured to run both A/Cs when powered by the generator (see illustration above).

50-amp coaches do not have this problem since there are 50-amps available on two separate legs of 120-volts. On those RVs, each air conditioner is connected through a different leg. Again, it’s all in the math.

If it is extremely important to operate both air conditioners at the same time, the only safe and code-compliant option is to install an aftermarket energy management system (EMS), which will automatically cycle each air conditioner, one at a time. Let me know if you cannot locate those “either/or” switches and we’ll dig a little further if necessary.

Charging 6-Volt RV Batteries

2011-02-07T17:23:00.000-08:00

Is there a way to charge my two 6-volt batteries with a regular stand-alone battery charger? If so how would you hook up the positive and negative charger clamps?
George, (Fresno, CA)

George, I’m going to assume you are referring to a stand-alone battery charger that is 12-volts only. I mention this because some shop chargers are equipped with a 6-volt output option as well as 12-volts DC. Since all DC components on RVs operate on 12-volts, (water pump, fans, lamps, etc.), your two, 6-volt batteries, as installed, are still set up to produce a 12-volt final output. The only difference is the connection between the two batteries.

At the basic level, two 6-volt batteries are wired in “series” and two or more 12-volt batteries are wired in “parallel” in order to produce 12-volts final output. Take a look at the diagrams here; two, 6-volt batteries above and two, 12-volt batteries below. The final output that provides battery power to the components in the RV is still 12-volts DC. Therefore, both configurations can be charged by any 12-volt battery charger by simply connecting the charger’s red cable clamp to the “plus” 12-volt terminal lead and the black or ground cable clamp to the negative terminal as shown here.

But a word of caution! Notice on the 6-volt battery diagram, you must know which battery feeds the positive voltage to the RV and which battery represents the negative connection. If your series connected batteries look similar to those depicted here, then all you do is connect them as shown. If yours are wired differently, do let me know and we’ll investigate further. Bottom line: 12-volts is still 12-volts. You do not want to connect either battery charger lead to the posts that make the interconnection between the two 6-volt batteries.

Noisy RV Water Pump

2011-01-30T03:30:00.000-08:00

My water pump is turning on about every couple of minutes without any faucets calling for water. It is also very noisy and vibrates the pipes down the side of RV. There are no apparent leaks, no kinks, etc. What could be the problem? It did not do this when it was brand new. J., (Mills, WY)

Judy, you say you have no apparent leaks, but be sure to check carefully for any evidence of moisture inside cabinets, storage compartments, under the coach, etc. If you are absolutely sure no water accumulation exists it might be time to have the water pump itself checked. Some pumps can leak internally, meaning that even though there is no call for water (no faucet turned on), it may have an integral leak.

The pressure switch, built into the pump head, senses a drop in pressure and short cycles the pump. It’s like the pump “burps” for a few seconds. Basically it starts up, quickly builds the pressure and then shuts down. A weak spring in the pressure switch could be at fault. Or possibly a worn seal is not fully shutting off the water flow through the pump head. With an internal leak, there would be no evidence of water accumulating or dripping.

But carefully check all the fresh water plumbing tubing in the RV, including the hot side just to be sure. A cracked fitting anywhere in the system, even though it may not be enough to gather a huge puddle, can still cause a drop in system pressure; enough that the pressure switch senses this reduction and starts the cycling.

One sure-fire way to test the pump is to cap off the outlet fitting right at the pump. You may have to purchase a plug or a cap in order to do this, but by terminating the outlet port of the pump, you’ll be able to isolate the problem to the pump itself, or another fitting or component somewhere in the rest of the system.

After you cap off the outlet port, turn the pump back on and wait. If it still short cycles periodically over the course of a couple hours, there is a problem inside the pump. If the short cycling stops completely, there is a seeping fitting somewhere else in the remainder of the system meaning further troubleshooting would then be in order.

As far as the pump being noisy, be sure it is secured well to its mounting surface. The best location is flat on the floor of the coach. Make sure the mounting screws and rubber isolators are intact and secure. If the fresh water tubing is semi-rigid PEX, it’s advantageous to have a double loop of flexible tubing connect directly to the outlet side of the pump before it attaches to the rest of the PEX tubing, (unlike the photo above).

SHURflo makes a “Silencing Kit” consisting of a couple flexible connectors and the appropriate fittings. This kit is adaptable to any RV water pump. Ask for Part Number 94-591-01. If the pump is still overly noisy, another option is to add an in-line accumulator. The accumulator invokes a cushion of air and acts like a shock absorber of sorts to soften the vibrations caused by pumping water.

RV Roof Air Conditioner Caused No-Voltage Situation

2011-01-23T03:30:00.000-08:00

I recently purchased a 2008 Lexington. I started the generator and after a few moments I turned on the air conditioning unit. While adjusting the thermostat on the air conditioner I accidentally turned it off. I turned the air conditioner back on and immediately I lost the electrical power. Not only power to the air conditioner, but also power to all my 120-volt circuits (TV, microwave, etc). I went to the bath and tried to reset the GFCI. It would not reset. We went to an RV park a half an hour later and I thought the shore power would do the trick. However, in a nutshell, while the generator is running or when I have shore power, I cannot get any 120-volt circuit operating. I did not trip a breaker on my panel box, however I reset all those as well. Where else might a breaker be? Help! Charlie, (Hampton, VA)

Charlie, your Lexington incorporates an automatic transfer switch to facilitate the automatic switching between the voltage from the generator and the shore power. I realize you’ve reset the circuit breakers on the main panelboard, but also make sure the circuit breaker on the generator itself is not tripped. If that breaker is tripped, and at the same time, the transfer switch relay is stuck on the generator output, you’ll not have any voltage coming in from the shoreline. However, it sounds like the power surge caused by the accidental short cycling of the A/C compressor probably blew the fuse inside the transfer switch or possibly damaged the relays inside. You are apparently not receiving voltage from either source now as evidenced by the GFCI. The coach GFCI will only “test” when voltage is applied to that circuit. You’ll need to locate the auto transfer switch box.

The transfer switch is a large box usually relatively easy to find since the shore power cord feeds directly into it. Trace the shore power cord as it enters the motorhome and you should find it. It may be behind another piece of gear. It will most likely have two other power cables leading to it; from the generator and the converter.

Once you locate the transfer switch, make sure the shore power cable is unplugged and the generator is not running. Open the transfer switch cover and check the fuse(s) inside. If a fuse is blown, replace it. If not, there could be internal damage to the switch controls and/or the associated relay and you will need to have your system diagnosed professionally. You should have no trouble replacing the fuse, but a Certified RV technician should only attempt further internal diagnostics.

Air Leak on RV Siding

2011-01-16T03:30:00.000-08:00

I own a 32-foot toy hauler. Recently on a trip, I noticed air getting between the siding and the walls of the trailer, near the leading edge of the sides of the trailer. On my return trip home, the air blew the siding out like a balloon and popped the siding out from behind the edge molding. What I need to find out is where the air is coming in. I am unable to determine this and I would like to repair this myself. Any ideas? Tom, (La Quinta, CA)

Tom, if air is getting behind the siding, then water can also. I’d recommend a thorough inspection be performed. The first thing I would suggest you do is completely remove the front edge molding on the affected side of the trailer. After the molding is removed carefully clean off all the old putty and sealant and set the molding aside. Next clean all putty and sealant remnants still on the corner of the trailer. Access the roof of the trailer and thoroughly inspect the front roof transition molding for gaps in the sealant, especially close to the front corners. Do the same with any roof fixtures nearby such as roof or sewer vents, TV antenna, etc. Be sure to clean and reseal any cracks in the sealant.

Back down on the ground, with the edge molding removed, carefully pry open the sidewall as much as possible and use a flashlight to inspect the framework behind (this is assuming you have soft side walls and stick construction). Reach your hand in and feel the insulation. Hopefully it is dry inside. If the insulation is slightly damp it can probably be dried by propping open the gap between the siding and framework and directing a portable heater into the opening. Leave it on for at least 24 hours or until it is totally dry. Reassemble the exterior wall once the innards are dry.

A staple gun was probably used to secure the edges of the siding to the framework during manufacture but you can use small tacks or staples. Just be liberal with them. The more you use to secure the siding, especially on that leading edge, the less chance of it pulling loose again. Apply Eternabond DoubleStick tape along the inside edge of the molding and reinstall each molding piece. Be sure not to tighten the screws too tight or they will strip. Use a larger size screw or install additional screws in that area if some are indeed stripped already. Make absolutely sure that the molding properly covers and overlaps the bitter edge of sidewall material.

It is possible that the sidewall skin is cut too short in some areas and that the molding doesn’t completely cover it. This could also be the cause of the air leak. If may be necessary to “cheat” the molding further inboard so that it totally covers the edge of the siding all the way around. If the siding has dips and valleys by virtue of its design, apply more than one layer of Eternabond tape. You’ll want all the gaps completely filled in. Using a utility knife, simply trim the excess and do another thorough inspection for gaps in the sealant.

Is It Pre-wired for RV Generator?

2011-01-09T03:30:00.000-08:00

We are considering adding a generator to our coach. We want a generator and have heard our model is prewired for one, however we are not sure. How do we tell, and what type should we get? Steven, (Berwick, PA)

I'm assuming you have an older motorhome Steven. So, to know that a coach is pre-wired for a future generator installation, look inside the proposed generator compartment. It should be equipped with a louvered door to allow for the ventilation requirements of the power plant. Secondly, there will be an electrical box mounted somewhere inside that compartment. Called the generator “make up” box or “J” box, it will contain conductors that run from the generator compartment to the main panelboard distribution box, (breaker box), somewhere inside the RV. Or, it may be routed to a dedicated 30-amp receptacle located near the shoreline cord entrance, such as shown in the photo here.

At the main breaker panel, you may also find a separate circuit breaker labeled for the generator or at least space for one. Some coaches also come from the factory with an automatic transfer switch already installed. This device will automatically switch the source of AC voltage from the shoreline cord to the generator after it is started. If there is no automatic transfer switch on-board and there is a 30-amp receptacle at or near the shoreline cord, then you must plug the shoreline cord into the generator receptacle in order to power the coach. There may also be a plugged fuel line already run into that compartment as well. Plus the compartment will be metal-enclosed.

And don’t forget, you can always contact the coach manufacturer (assuming they are still around!). By providing them the model and VIN number of your motorhome, they should be able to tell you how that particular coach was outfitted as it left the factory.

As far as generator brand, there are quite a few nice models currently available. I’d suggest seeking out information for suppliers having a proven RV track record for starters, but I certainly wouldn’t rule out any of the newcomers to the RV market. I’d probably have to start from scratch and download info from any and everyone who currently makes an RV generator, making sure it is indeed approved for RV use. There are quite a few options today. Do your homework and compare size, output rating, cost, fuel efficiency, etc., prior to making the decision.

Don’t forget, you’ll have to first mathematically “size” the RV to determine how much power you’ll actually need. In other words, based on the 120-volt devices in your rig, how much wattage will you actually require? The answer to this question will determine what “size” generator you should consider. Once you’ve done the math, add another 20-30% for a safety buffer; keeping in mind, you’ll also be plugging in devices like coffee makers, curling irons, etc., in addition to the built-in or “hard-wired” AC loads associated with your particular motorhome. The bottom line; always have more output capacity available than you’ll typically need at any given time.

RV Damage Due to Tire Failure

2011-01-03T03:30:00.000-08:00

I have a Class B motor home and was driving down the highway when the rubber from the rear outside tire flew off and took out the insulation and cabinet bottom, water lines and a host of other things. As the stuffing flew out, it caught something underneath on the other side and knocked out the floor under my bathroom cabinet. Is this common or did I just have a bit of bad luck. I would really appreciate knowing while I wait to see what the insurance company has to say. Cory, (Omaha, NE)

Cory, I would have to say that you indeed had a case of bad luck with that tire separation. The damage caused by a separating tire can either be minimal or much worse in many cases. Road speed, type of coach construction, how large the pieces were, etc., all plays a part. I’d hazard that no two instances will be identical. I would, however, caution you to be sure and let the insurance company know that every system, propane, battery, 120-volt AC, fresh water plumbing, waste water plumbing, etc., will need to be fully tested after all the physical construction repairs are completed. It’s not simply a matter of rebuilding the structural components. There may be unseen damage that can only be revealed through a series of tests on each of the systems.

Plus it's important to fully analyze why that tire failed in the first place! Have a professional service technician or tire safety expert conduct a thorough investigation to determine the cause. Overloading, improper air pressure, faulty tire or other failed equipment may have been the cause and a close inspection is a mandate against further complications later on.

This might be a good time to remind everyone about the great work performed by the RV Safety & Education Foundation (RVSEF). My good friend, Walter Cannon, heads that organization and is the leading expert in tires, weights and safety for all RVs. Be sure to check out the information posted here.

RV Awning Arm Security

2010-12-29T03:30:00.000-08:00

I evidently have deformed lag screw holes in the floor frame for the bottom rear bracket where the patio awning is anchored. The original #14 x 2" screws now will not hold because the previous owner opened the awning with the pull strap next to the front upright, NOT with the strap in the middle of the awning, consequently twisting the rear upright and bracket, stripping the lag screws causing the damage. Is the only repair for this damage to drill out the holes in the bracket and install larger lag screws? If so what type of screw should I be looking for (galvanized, zinc coated, stainless?) and what size? #14 is the largest I can find in stores. Could drilling through the inside wall of the floor frame channel and then using a #14 x 2-1/2" lag screws solve the problem? How should I reseal the bracket? J., (Mosinee, WI)

In all honesty Jay, it would be difficult to provide proper direction without actually viewing firsthand, the damage caused by the misuse. A lot depends solely on how robust the floor structure is on your coach. If there is enough “meat” left in the good wood at the same screw location, then the obvious first attempt would be go to a larger lag screw. A #14 wood screw is significantly smaller than what I term “lag screw.” Take care not to re-drill the holes too large for the newer lag. Going to a longer lag will probably not be advantageous since the thickness of that floor member will rarely be wider than a 2X piece of lumber at best. I would suggest using stainless lag screws, 1/4-inch in diameter, if possible. Zinc-coated would be my second choice. If necessary, you could also go the distance and install 3/8-inch lags though it may be necessary to drill larger holes in the aluminum bracket.

For sealing, I’d use Eternabond double-face sealing tape behind the bracket, but I’d also squirt a bit of silicone sealant into the lag holes before installing each lag. Take care not to get silicone on the surface where the Eternabond tape will stick. Depending on the brand of your motorhome, it may be possible to access the floor void from underneath the coach by cutting an access hole in the bottom of the sub-floor. If this is easily accomplished, consider installing new wooden “cribbing” blocks inside the floor runner. Again, it would take a detailed inspection, but if this is doable, I’d opt for bolts with “T” nuts and lock washers instead of lag screws.

Older Motorhome Fuel Tanks

2010-12-27T03:30:00.000-08:00

I have an older, 1982 Pace Arrow I need to know which fuel tank is the MAIN tank; the front or the rear tank? John, (Placerville, CA)

John, the main fuel container on that vintage Fleetwood motorhome is usually the one located between the main frame rails. Typically Pace Arrow had one tank between the rails and one tank located outboard of the main frame on one side or the other. The floor plan dictates the tank locations, however, and if yours has both tanks between the frame rails, look for the tank with the rounded edges, probably the one mounted closest to the rear of the motorhome. The AUX tank usually always had square corners while the main container will have rounded corners and edges. The other way is to locate the electric switchover solenoid valve (usually located inside the front right frame rail), and follow the fuel lines back towards the tanks. The inlet port on that switchover valve that is “in line” with the outlet port is the one fed from the main tank. That said, all the above should help you unless someone has modified the original installation.

Adding a 2nd RV Roof Air Conditioner

2010-12-20T03:30:00.000-08:00

I am interested in installing a second air conditioner in my fifth-wheel where the vent currently is located in the bedroom upstairs. I know I have a breaker in the box marked “2nd air conditioner,” but I’m not sure if I can actually install one there. Could you please advise me on what I need to look for to make sure I can install one before I buy.
Jim, (Augusta, GA)

Jim, your coach is apparently pre-wired for that second roof air conditioner as is evidenced by the presence of the second circuit breaker in the panelboard distribution box. If you remove the inside garnish (trim) piece from around the 14-inch roof vent at the ceiling, you should find a hole through one side of the cutout opening. There’s no need to remove the vent itself from the roof for this inspection; you’ll be able to verify this from the inside.

Chances are there is also a flat, blank cover plate near that side of the ceiling right across from the vent opening. Inside that ceiling box you should find pre-installed conductors routed up from near that second circuit breaker. Chances are the Romex is not actually connected to the circuit breaker yet, but it should be evident within the enclosure. Whoever installs that second roof A/C will have to route a short section of Romex cable from that junction box in the ceiling over to the 14-inch rough cutout. The new A/C mounts right over the existing hole where the vent is now. Once you’ve established there are indeed conductors for the air conditioner present in the ceiling, the roof vent can be removed and the air conditioner installed. Another step in the procedure is to connect the Romex to the circuit breaker and the neutral and ground busses in the breaker box. A quick check of the voltage at the new air conditioner should be the final step before firing up that new cooler.

Appliance Burnout on RV Inverter Power

2010-12-14T03:30:00.000-08:00

Do you have any information on a coffee maker that does not short out or burn out when the inverter is used? We have gone through six coffee makers in three years of full-timing in our motorhome. It burns up when shutting off the 50-amp power and operating on the inverter when on the road. I have a Newmar with a 2000-watt inverter and a 7500-watt generator. The inverter is a Xantrex, which was installed by Newmar at the factory when the rig was built. I just installed four new Trojan 6-volt deep cycle batteries. R., (Spring Lake, MI)

Ron, two words; iced tea. I think I’d give up on coffee at the rate you’re going through coffee makers! Just joking! But I’d focus on the inverter itself since you do not have a problem while on generator or shore power. If the coffee makers were the issue, you’d be having the same problems regardless of the power source.

To start, be sure all the connections for the positive and negative battery terminals, the remote panel, the incoming and outgoing AC conductors, etc., are all clean and tight at the inverter. Those terminal blocks with the small screw clamps can sometimes vibrate loose. Loose connections will always present problems, or at least opportunities for eventual problems.

One other item to check – and this is a common problem with some of the lighter loads that may be put on that inverter; be sure another load is on at the same time. There’s an internal function inside the inverter called the “search sense threshold.” If the inverter’s search sense threshold is set too high or too low, it could cause erratic output voltages, especially when the inverter is powering a relatively light load, such as a coffee maker. Measure the output voltage of the inverter with a light (small) AC load applied to help stabilize the output reading.

If the voltage output at the coffee maker receptacle is upwards of 129 or more RMS volts AC, I would suggest calling the Xantrex customer service line and see if any firmware upgrades are available for your model. As improvements to the algorhythms are effectuated, the upgrade will update your older unit. Contact them at: 800-670-0707. I hope this, at least, points you in the right direction. It’s not easy trying to diagnose long distance like this. I often wish my VOM leads were a little longer!

UPDATE!
Once the above question was first published, I received more than a couple of rebuttals to my response to Ron. It seems I completely missed an obvious condition relative to his question. I totally missed the fact that Ron's inverter might not be a true sine wave inverter. I have long recommended the use of a true sine wave inverter and simply assumed his was one of them. The output waveform of Ron's inverter is apparently a modified sine wave, or as some people identify it, a modified square wave output. Many light, non-resistive loads like coffee makers, electric blankets, portable power tool chargers, etc., are not appropriate to be powered by a modified square wave DC to AC inverter. In fact many small appliances are labeled as such. The fact that some coffee makers like Ron's are not, leads to the confusion and the common burnout issue with some of them.

Most low load devices, like coffee makers, clocks and electric blankets that employ electronics or are outfitted with a timer or a clock of some sort will likely not operate correctly when powered by a square wave inverter. One reader, Gene Arnott, pointed out that he has had success with at least one model of Black & Decker coffee maker; one that does not contain electronics. This, after burning through a handful of Mr. Coffee machines.

Another reader, Alfred Oxton, has a Craftsman 19-volt power tool that has a warning tag on the charger cord that specifically says to not use that charger with a DC to AC inverter.

Xantrex states in their manual that the best devices powered by an inverter be of the "resistive load" type. Here's their reasoning: "These are the loads that the inverter finds the simplest and most efficient to drive. Voltage and current are in phase, or, in this case, in step with one another. Resistive loads usually generate heat in order to accomplish their tasks. Toasters, coffee pots and incandescent lights are typical resistive loads. Larger resistive loads—such as electric stoves and water heaters—are usually impractical to run off an inverter. Even if the inverter could accommodate the load, the size of battery bank required would be impractical."

So many thanks to Gene, Alfred, John Leitch, Bernie Dobrin and Dan & Carylin Larson for their input and sharp eyes! Bottom line, be aware of the output waveform of your inverter and also check the specifications and limitations of any device being powered by that inverter output.

Dumping RV Holding Tanks

2010-12-08T03:30:00.000-08:00

I just completed reading your handout on holding tanks and odor control; very informative! My wife and I are new to the RVing world and we are excited about it but a little apprehensive at the same time. We have many questions, most we don't even know to ask yet! One question on the holding tanks, after reading your article, maybe I missed it, but if we only camp one or two weekends a month for a couple of days each time, do we still wait until the black and grey tanks are at least 3/4 full before we dump? That might mean that our coach would sit in storage maybe two to three weeks at a time with waste in the tanks. Is that okay? Another question on the fresh water tank, would I drain both this tank and the hot water heater after each weekend trip if the RV just sits there? Roger, (Topeka, KS)

Roger, you should really avoid having that waste lying dormant in the tanks during the weeks between trips, especially in the solid waste tank. If you’re only using the RV on the weekends and it remains less than 3/4 full, simply add more fresh water so that the total capacity of the black holding tank is at least that full prior to evacuating. Dump each tank after every weekend trip. Here’s the reasoning; in order to maximize the flushing velocity, it’s necessary to have the tank filled or almost full. A partially filled black tank can develop tank blockages if there is not enough force to flush out all the contents. This isn’t normally a concern for the gray tank. Just simply evacuate it normally after emptying the black tank. And be sure to run fresh water down through the toilet after draining the tanks to rinse the sewer hose, the valves and the connections.

The polyethylene water tank and the water heater will not suffer any ill affects during storage periods of less than month if you choose to leave them full of water. But you be the judge; if the water smells odd or tastes stale, then you may have to drain and refill after each use. As you are probably aware, it all depends on the quality of the water you put in there to begin with, right? Many motorhome owners prefer to dump all the tanks, including the fresh water to avoid the added weight while driving.

By the way, the December 2010 and January 2011 issues of Family Motor Coaching Magazine feature an in-depth, two-part article on Waste Management. Be sure to check them out! I go into great detail in all areas of waste containment, odor control and preventive maintenance, including information regarding new products and processes.

RV Faucets and Fixtures

2010-12-06T03:30:00.000-08:00

I own an older motorhome and the bathroom and kitchen water fixtures are beginning to tarnish. They still work okay, but I want to replace them to be more in-line with our interior wishes. What is the difference, if any, between an RV fixture and a standard home fixture? If I upgrade to a higher grade fixture to get what I want, will there be any performance issues within the motorhome?
Ron, (Evington, VA)

Ron, you should have no problems whatsoever replacing the faucets in the motorhome with a higher grade of aftermarket faucet. The hole spacings are the same in RVs as they are in home applications for both lavatory and kitchen sets. The only negative would be the added weight of heavy brass faucets compared to the lighter (and cheaper) plastic faucet assemblies’ common to many motorhomes. But still, that would be a minimal consideration at best. Any of the big box stores will have a plethora of choices to peruse, (too many in my opinion), and all will work in the motorhome. Just be sure you have the correct fittings to adapt to the existing water supply tubing in the coach. Typically, the faucet kit will come with the needed adapters.

Propane On While Driving an RV - Oh Boy!

2010-12-01T03:00:00.000-08:00

Should I turn off the propane to my refrigerator when driving down the road? Should I turn off the propane at the tank at all times while driving? What about the food in the freezer? Can you tell me what is right for safety? Gerri & Oscar, (Hershey, PA)

Gerri and Oscar, you must really want me to get a bucket load of mail into my inbox! Okay, I’m a glutton for punishment, so I’ll bite. There are two schools of thought concerning running down the road with the LP container open and the refrigerator on; one is that it is safe and permissible IF you are absolutely sure the entire propane system is set up properly and completely leak-free. Understanding, of course, the propane system does contain built-in safeguards in the event of a collision. However there are certain LP restrictions concerning some tunnels, turnpikes, ferries and bridges, etc. It may still be illegal to travel with appliances operating, so you must check your route and determine if there are any restrictions in the areas you will be driving. There may even be some state or municipality-imposed regulation. But according to the proponents in this camp, as long as the RV has been maintained properly; that is, all components cleaned and serviced regularly, the LP system inspected and adjusted properly, the entire system checked regularly for leaks, etc., then as long as there are no local restrictions, go for it. After all, it IS a self-contained motorhome! Right?

The second school of thought is, why? There really is no need to run the refrigerator on LP while physically driving down the road. As long as the refrigerator is already cooled and the contents in the freezer already frozen, with properly sealing door gaskets, nothing will spoil or melt during the course of a normal day driving down the road. Even if you occasionally open the door to grab a quick soda, the interior of the refrigerator will stay cool enough over the course of a one-day’s drive. When you stop that night, open the LP container (or plug into shore power), and start the refrigerator. Of course, some RV absorption refrigerators are equipped with a DC heating element so keeping the refrigerator cooled by battery power is totally acceptable while driving. The problem is, many RVers are not aware of the many facets of propane safety as it relates to RV preventive maintenance. So if I’m driving my RV down the road, I just may have my LP container open and the refrigerator fired up, but as I pass other RVers, I’m hoping they do not!

Flawed RV Exterior Finish

2010-11-28T03:00:00.000-08:00

We purchased a 1992 Coachmen Class A a few years ago. Since it is parked outside all the time, 90% of the clear coat has peeled off (except for the bumpers), and the decals have faded and are cracked severely. I have read each of your archived RV Doctor Columns (and picked up some info along the way), looked up DIY auto painting, etc., but have not found anything specific on painting the fiberglass of a motorhome. Nor have I found what I feel is an acceptable way to remove 80 feet of decals without possibly damaging the glass. What is the best way to remove the decals? Is there a specific clear coat or paint I should use over the fiberglass? Tom, (Whittier, CA)

Tom, you mentioned "clear coat" and not “gel coat,” and it’s important to know the difference. Coaches built in the early 1990's may have an applied clear coat or it may be simply gel-coated fiberglass. It’s apparent yours probably received a dealer-applied coating sold and installed at the time of the original purchase. These coatings were popular back then, and costly, but only lasted about five years under normal use. As you’ve noticed, they tend to deteriorate and become unsightly over time. Removal is difficult but can be accomplished with the proper knowledge and a little patience.

To remove the remaining coating you can use any cleaning product that contains ammonia, including 409 or any glass cleaner that contains ammonia D. It will be necessary to allow the cleaner to “soak” into the clear coat before wiping clean. Removing the cracked decals is also accomplished with the right tools and a good deal of time and patience. You will need a heat gun, not a simple hair dryer, but a commercial-type heat gun. You’ll also need a plastic scraper. Scrapers and heat guns are available at any of the big box home-care stores. Be sure the scraper is yellow or white plastic. They are less prone to damaging the exterior surface. Remember, heat guns can get very hot so be careful to not burn or blister the fiberglass while heating the decals. Gently heat the surface of the decal and push the scraper under a loosened edge. Keep warming the surface and continuing to scrape the decal. The operative words here are; slow and steady. Once the decals are totally scraped away, apply an adhesive removal product to eliminate any residue left behind. Adhesive removers will either be oil based, like mineral spirits, or D-limonene based like Goo Gone. You can try both to see which works best. After the residue has been removed, I recommend an application of Protect All’s Fiberglass Oxidation Remover over the entire fiberglass surface. Depending on how oxidized your finish is, it may take two applications.

Once all the oxidation has been removed, the motorhome can be prepped for painting. Since paint types are so subjective, I’ll leave it to you to do your homework to determine what is best for your situation. My suggestion would be to check with a local RV collision repair facility or a paint and auto body supply center in your area for the specifics. In any case, the facility must have a paint booth large enough to accommodate your coach. That will be one determining factor. But at least you can perform most of the prep work yourself.

For some good reading on the care of fiberglass, check out the info published here.

RV Drain Pipes

2010-11-25T03:00:00.000-08:00

Why isn’t standard, cement together plastic pipe and fittings used in the repair of RVs when replacing factory installed fittings? Clyde, (Billerica, MA)

Clyde, since you asked about “pipe and fittings,” I’m assuming you are referring to the RV waste piping systems. Standard ABS fittings continue to be used in the manufacture and repair of RV drainage systems. Most every RV contains Schedule 40, plastic ABS for all P-traps and drains as well as vent stacks. (In the photo here you can see a sink continuous waste, a P-trap and an anti-siphon trap vent device). Some components, such as the termination valves, are bolted, (using adapters), rather than cemented, but the majority of RV manufacturers still use cemented fittings for simple connections such as elbows, tees and wyes, in both the black and gray waste systems.

Now if you meant cemented fittings for the distribution of the fresh water, the norm today is cross-linked polyethylene, (PEX) tubing. It used to be the gray polybutylene tubing and before that, cemented PVC and CPVC pipe and fittings and copper tubing. PEX is much easier to install and certainly less expensive and lighter in weight than copper tubing, which you may still see periodically in some custom installations. There are a few different connection methods used with PEX fittings including a variety of clamps and rings, but none involve glue or cement. The fresh plumbing system today enjoys fully the advantages of flexible tubing rather than rigid piping for the distribution of the fresh water. But the waste systems still employ cemented ABS pipe and fittings.